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Volkswagen TDI Models



  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    tru j , it might start with the new-made-key if you wait a half hour and retry.
    (If it detected wrong-resistor-value in the original valet key, and you tried it a few times in a row, i think it might lock-out the ignition for 15 or 30 minutes. some cars do that. not sure if your VW is one such...)
  • trujijtrujij Posts: 2
    i'll try that--thanks!
  • jshlevjshlev Posts: 1
    Hi There everyone, My TDI usually is hard to start on cold mornings(no heat block yet) but just yesterday it now will not fire and run. The battery is fine and the starter seems to be doing it's job but maybe it's not getting fuel? Should I change the fuel filter to see if that is the problem? Is there a way to check to see if that is the problem. I read on a previous post about a fuel line problem and they put diesel in a can to bypass the filter? Would that be a test?
  • pludlowpludlow Posts: 16
    I doubt it's your fuel filter.
    My experience is with a 4 cylinder diesel if one of the glow plugs has burned out, starting will be very difficult. This is based on owning three 4 cylinder diesels with >500k mi. To check the glow plugs, pull the electrical connector caps and measure the resistance of each to a good contact with the engine block. You will see either low resistance of <10 Ohms or an open circuit which means burned out. Removal & replacement is simple, just be sure to clean the area around the plug before removing it. Around 100k mi I replaced one on my TDI for the same symptoms, and several on my Ford Tempo over 300kmi and lots on my Peugeot, but it was French!
    If it's your fuel filter you would likely see the problem at any temperature.
    Waxing becomes a problem after operating for a short time. For sustained cold weather below 10deg F I would use a good wax inhibitor.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You are correct in thinking it is NOT the fuel filter. A plugged fuelFilter does not often cause STARTING issues. Instead, a plugged filter will show itself as you are driving asking for power with the throttle. (more fule flow)

    Your IQ is the most critical thing when it comes to starting TDI engine. With the IQ adjusted to slightly above the nominal setting, a TDI will start very easilly in -15F temparatures.

    IQ = Injection Quality (aka timing of injection pulses)
  • jzautojzauto Posts: 1
    Engine misfires at idle only. Sometimes turning the A/C on will make the miss disappear. Seams to be a lean condition that changes with different attempts to locate it. For example: Cracking the #3 cylinder injection line slightly will smooth it up at times. Closing the intake butterfly almost to the point of stalling seems to clear the misfire.
  • miammiam Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 2005 Jetta TDI in Vancouver WA from a dealer and the first month I owned this car it was in the dealers shop. After reading your blog about crappy service at dealers, I am now requesting that anyone who might know of a good mechanic in the Portland OR area let me know, Please!
    The first sign of problem was that at a stop light the engine idol was really "chugging." The whole car would shake violently and I took it back and said "I've owned a diesel before, but this can't be right." In fact I was right and the car had more problems than I knew. The dealership said that the fuel injection lines had been switched, that the intake was connected to the outtake and vice a versa. Since they "corrected" this problem my MPG have dropped by 20 mpg (from 50 to 30). Does anyone know anything about this? OR know any mechanics that are trust worthy?

  • vwguy1776vwguy1776 Posts: 3
    I recently had to shell out $2000 to replace my turbo that failed due to excessive carbon buildup. I own an 02 Golf TDI with 77,000 miles on it. The extended warranty company is balking at covering the cost due to the presence of this excessive carbon. I take good care of teh car and am pissed. does anyone else have this problem? any suggestions when i sue the extended warranty company? DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A CLASS-ACTION SUIT AGAINST VW FOR THE [non-permissible content removed] TURBO IN MY GOLF?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Comon.... You are not serious about blaming VW for this? VW does not even manufacture the turbocahrger. It is built by one of the 3 companies in the world that builds turbochargers.

    Most likely the problem with your turbocharger was the DRIVER. There is a reason that you need to use full-throttle accelleration at least once per tank of fuel. TO KEEP THE CARBON BLOWN OUT OF THE TURBOCHARGER!

    Besides, your old turbocharger is likely to be good. I hope your repair-shop did not KEEP your expensive trubocharger. I am sure THEY sent it out for rebuild. (and got several 100 dollars for it)

    As a pre-warning to you... the INTAKE-PLENUM on TDIs is known to get plugged up with carbon and needs to be cleaned. (around 80-100K miles) Did your service-poeple include this cleaning in the $2000 bill? If not, you will be in the shop again soon...
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    Sorry to hear about your turbo failure. I really can do nothing about the spilled milk portion, but can offer up suggestions on how to make the new turbo you bought go longer than 77,000.

    Mine is at 107,000 miles. The goals are a min of 500,000 miles plus. The EGR and intake manifold was inspected during the 100k mile TB/WP change. It was pronounced good to go for @ least another 100k by one of the regional gurus. It was blacked, but there was NO carbon/soot build up.

    So when your water temp is cold (aka, less than normal operating temp @ app 190 degrees on your temp gauge) run your revs (through the gears) to not more than 2,500 rpms. When it is warm (aka @ app 190 degrees on your temp gauge) run your revs (through the gears) to app 3,500 rpms.

    You CAN rev to 5,100 rpms BUT much over 3800 rpms does NOT much good. (economy, power, speed, wise) This type of up and down reving keeps the turbo's vanes from getting stuck.

    Some might have different definitions, but you will want to run the car slightly ahead of the torque curve (again slightly to more aggressively). You do NOT want to wind it up like a Honda VTEC then shift. But you want to shift (slightly) before and let the torque pull you to where you want to go. So while I normally run the engine at higher rpms ( for the reasons stated) when I want max mpg, I run it between 1700- 2000 rpms(sweet spot) . Again, when you feel the need to down shift let the revs take you to between 2,500 to 3,500 and this will actually keep the turbo issues at bay while you can do the economy range if you so chose.
  • ally21ally21 Posts: 3
    Hi, can anyone help me please, I have recently purchased a new shape Golf GT TDI. It seems to have an intermittant shuddering when the vehicle is ticking over. The whole car seems to vibrate. I was advised to change the oil and clean the throttle body which has been done but has not made a difference. Has anyone come across this before or have any suggestions for me to try. Thank you!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    There is no "throttle body" on a diesel engine... just exactly what did they do? (I hope you did not actually PAY to have a non-exastant part cleaned.)

    In any case -You may want to start with a compression-test to ensure that all 4 cylinders are mechanically sound.

    Then, consider one of the injectors may be mis-behaving.
  • richt007richt007 Posts: 1
    I'm new here and wanted to introduce myself. My name is Rich Truesdell and I am the Editorial Director of Automotive Traveler, which, as the name implies, is an automotive adventure travel web site. Wednesday I was up in the California desert doing a test drive on the Dodge Caliber SRT4 when I encountered a group of VWs and Audis going through some hot weather tests. As all the Audis were were not cloaked, I didn't see anything interesting there. But I did come across what I believe were two 2009/2010 Golf Plus models and the the test team and their escorts really didn't want me taking photos of the front of the cars.

    It took a little bit of creativity and patience, but here's a sample of what I was able to get.


    I've posted some additional views at Automotive Traveler, including some higher resolution images. Here's a direct link to the blog:

    2009 VW Golf Plus Spy Shots

    I invite you to drop in, take a look, and leave any comments that might better identify the cars in the shots. Feel free to post the above image on other VW-related forums if you want so long that you properly credit it to Automotive Traveler and the link above.

    If the editors at would like to feature the images with proper attribution, please contact me directly.

    Thank you and have a great weekend.

    Richard Truesdell
    Editorial Director, Automotive Traveler magazine,
  • alltorquealltorque Posts: 535
    If you go to the VW Germany site you can see all the current cars - guess these are what you'll be getting. But maybe not the new Scirocco.
  • looking for how to contact members without interrupting a forum :confuse:
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 7,770
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  • I have a TDI jetta and my car has been vibrating more so as well. I do agree from what I learned that doing a compression test is a good idea & then looking into the injectors. This is something i'm currently looking into as well. My car is notorious now for having its shaking and misfiring...
  • My experience over the years with Ford - Toyota - Subaru - VW has all been the same. Only difference is the parent company and the policies they have which support proper customer service vs not sport it.

    Example - Ford no matter how random or unacceptable the issue was would bill the owner for the fix. Both my Subaru and my Toyota had repairs done way outside of the warrenty with no questions asked. Both Subaru and toyota dealers simply said hmm? thats not right it shouldn't do that we'll fix it no bill to me and a 100% happy customer and future buyer. Our VW had some issues not surprising even with a full extended fancy warrenty we still left the dealer $700 light for a car with 50,000 miles on it.

    My conclusion is that any dealer can be bad and the parent company policies can contribute to this poor service. I've also come to the conclusion that you should always learn as much about your vehicle as you can man or woman so that you know when things that shouldn't go wrong do and you can put pressure on the dealer to do the right thing vs charge you for a big fix etc.

    I've had mistakes made - vacume hoses left detached on my Toyota which resulted in me getting stuck given my 4wh drive didn't lock - I gave the dealer an ear full they fixed it no charge and payed for my tow which wasn't cheap.

    My Subaru which has been beat and abused like no other car I've ever had developed a very rare leak Subaru took one look and said that shouldn't happen we'll fix it the car was 40K out of warrenty! And yes they were right no matter how the car was used the leak it developed should never happen.

    VW - for years and - years and as for as long as I can remember has had horrible dealer reputations. It has 100% to due with the policies the parent company has regarding dealer pay back and credit from the parent company for warrenty and "goodwill" repairs.

    If you want to just drive a car not knowing a thing about how it works etc there are only three companies you should own a car from in this order Honda, Subaru, Toyota.

    If you take an interest in how your car works how it is put together etc then owning more exciting cars like VW's BMW's , Audi's - Mercedes etc.

    If you have little money for a car you should have a used Honda, Subaru - Toyota.
    If your a die hard American made type you need both money and car smarts for the Fords - Chevy's etc given the cars are OK but spotty regarding quality and the dealers have historically always been Ok but not outstanding when it comes to doing the right thing.

    I really do not like our 2001 1.8T Jetta its poorly put together - not comfortable - small and isn't exactly enjoyable to drive. Having said that the 5spd manual is well done something VW has always been known for is well done Manual transmissions. I drove the new 2L TDI jetta and was greatly impressed all my complaints appear to be fixed with the new 09 Jetta and for the price its hard to beat. Again its a VW so you should be the type that takes an interest in how the car is built and works so you know when things need addressing and when to call BS on the dealer.
  • sebring95sebring95 Posts: 3,238
    I agree with most of that. I've always said that VW's are tremendous vehicles for someone that enjoys being involved with their vehicles. And the TDI is even more so being that the VW dealers usually have even worse service for those models. I plan on doing all my service and hope to never need the dealer for anything.

    I disagree on Toyota though. I lump them clear at the bottom of the dealer service pile, right there with VW. In fact, their CSI scores usually reflect my sentiment. I always swear I'll never buy another Toyota (but usually do anyway...i.e. my current Tundra) because the dealers are so bad. I've fought with them on every warranty repair I've gotten out of them on the five Toyotas I've owned. Been screwed a few times on issues that were slightly out of warranty. My '07 Camry had bad strut mounts at 37k and even though there was a TSB on it, three dealers and Toyota corporate told me tough luck, I should have complained before 36k. I even called Toyota corporate after the run-around they gave me on the Tundra recall and they didn't give a rip. What's funny is nearlest dealer is a Toyota/Honda franchise owned by the same folks. They're right next door to each other. The Honda dealer is clean, drive-in service bay, free loaners, awesome waiting area with food/starbucks, and they've always given me top-notch service. The Toyota side is a trash heap, no loaners, dirty bathrooms, and the biggest [non-permissible content removed] of a service advisor I've ever met. Makes no sense, except that Honda holds them to a higher standard. The only up-side is that the problems are usually few and far between. God help the person that gets a bad Toyota though!
  • i have had my golf mk4 remaped from 150 std to 196bhp i was told my clutch may need to be upgraded few months past and its starting to slip can you advise on a replacement thankyou sammy
  • sorry its golf mk 4 03 plate
  • ruking1ruking1 Posts: 18,387
    A good one if you are planning on stopping there hp/torque wise is the Sachs V6 SM clutch. What is tricky is the lighter flywheel. Stay with the 20# not the lighter flywheel.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Many people find that the GTI or the VR6 clutch can handle the increased power.
  • johnzonhjohnzonh Posts: 2
    hey there,

    Im at a loss on this and its something that popped up about a month ago.

    our 99 TDI Beetle has absolutely no get up and go.... and will top out at about 70 mph flat highway. I was thinking fuel and air so I replaced fuel filter and air filter...

    I'm not burning oil, engine sounds good, no jerking or anything like that. It just will not perform. Starts fine (replaced glow plugs last year...of course got soaked for the job for VW to get rid of the check engine light. We live in relatively cold climate but have had no starting issues and have been through a several tanks of diesel.

    The light is back on ...and of course now I am stuck driving slow. Wondering about a waste gate issue? Anything I can do before I go kicking and screaming to VW?
  • oke3oke3 Posts: 2
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    I would bet money that your intake plenum is plugged up... this is KNOWN to happen to MK4 TDIs. The combonation of crappy USA fuel and ExhaustGasRecirculation cause this to happen.The only real fix is to remove the plenum and clean it. It is a very messy job...lots of black goop.

    If you do some research about this on the internet, you will find several do-it-yourself cleanings complete with photos.
  • pludlowpludlow Posts: 16
    Possibly the mass air flow sensor, as earlier reply suggested. I had a problem at 80kmi which was sluggish acceleration (low torque), like the turbo quit. Changed the MAF sensor and it was back to perky self. I did not find a max speed as you did, just took forever to get there. Lower gear helped.

    I'm wondering if you have a obstruction in the fuel supply (tank vent??) that limits the fuel flow and therefore the speed. Can you find a flat spot in lower gears at same rpm? If so that would suggest a fuel supply problem.
  • johnzonhjohnzonh Posts: 2
    oooh ok now maybe we are getting somewhere. hmm. I will look into the intake and the sensor issues.

    I didn't really find a "flat spot" ...but if I ever need to step on it, go up a hill, or go flat beyond about 70 it will just not do it. Thanks so much ..everyone for the input. I was really getting worried. in this day and age...getting 50 mpg is like gold. I really enjoy the savings.
  • jkinzeljkinzel Posts: 735
    Tomorrow I&#146;m going to look at a 2005 Beetle GLS TDI 5spd manual with 21,400+ miles on it.

    The dealer is asking $18,999, Blue Book is $19,150

    Any thoughts on the price. Seems like there are used TDI&#146;s showing up on the lots these days. I wonder why?
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 31,112
    Probably trades on the Jetta Sportwagen TDI. That does seem a bit high. Though that is one of the real pluses with the VW TDI, high resale value. That is very low mileage for a 4 year old car. Make sure it has a clean title, no wrecks.
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