Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Volkswagen TDI Models



  • ot anything new with VW. They were using meteorological terms before Chysler had it's first bankruptcy.

    For a while, what is now the Jetta was called the "Bora" here in EU. Yes, it is a wind but the English pronunciation is not something you want to boast about in the pub. :blush:
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    When you test drive a Forester, take a close look at the cloth seats if cloth is what you're considering. Our Forester's interior was a shambles after three years, with tears and permanent stains in the seats. Even the carpet had worn through around the perimeter of the mats. It's an area where Subaru trims costs. Not saying that Forester is a bad choice, but it's something to be aware of.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,025
    A reporter is interested in talking with owners of the VW Golf TDI who are also parents. If you are interested in commenting on your experience, please reply to no later than Saturday, November 20, 2010 and include your city and state of residence, the model year of your vehicle and the age of your child/ren.


    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

  • Sir,
    I am new to these postings, and hope I have found the right section. If not maybe you can re-direct me.
    Heres my problem :
    Car is a 2000 VW Golf with TDI engine and 5 speed manual trans. Bought it with 63,000 miles. Currently have 181,000 miles on it now.
    I had run bio diesel 100% for many trouble free miles. After many miles, the first (orginial) injection pump went out. Had my local shop change out IP and all components related to it, idlers, water pump, etc.
    23,000 miles later, rebuilt IP went out, back to the shop for a R & R on IP.
    After awhile the check engine light came on PLUS the little curly light on instrument panel flashes.
    In the owners manual the cruly light flashing says there is something wrong with the glow plugs and / or bridge wires. Mechanic checked them out and sez all OK there. Code is not in sink with what the curly light is suppose to say. Plugging in my Auto Xray code scanner, trouble code reads : P1562 which says : "Quantity Adjuster Upper Limit Attained".
    What the hell is that ???
    Had the EGR valve replaced, and there was some build up inside of it. After a $450.00 repair bill, check engine light and curly light still on.
    Have been running 100% #2 diesel through it, to purge out the bio diesel, and still no luck.
    Recently on my way home, a 35 mile trip, the check engine light and curly light did not come on at all ! I hate these intermintent problems !
    Mechanic at my shop I go to, looked further into what problems / solutions / repairs by using Google search engine, and always the last item is "Replace the IP". Right now I am not ready for another $2,500.00 R & R on the IP.
    To let you know, the car starts fine, runs fine, with pleanty of power when I need it, and getting between 42 to 48 MPG.
    I have heard of this thing called A Vag Com, and wondered if that would dig further into clearing the code for good.
    I live in Napa Valley, Calif.
    Reluctant to just take it to a VW dealership, as I will most likely hear the same story, as there is nothing to be done except change out the IP. Doubt they have a Vag Com anyway.

    I hope I have given enough information, and would really like to see those 2 lights disapere for good.

    Thanks for the help,

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited May 2011
    The curly (glowplug) indicator FLASHING is not the same as when it is ON.

    ON = there is a problem with the glowplugs. (relatively easy to troubleshoot and fix...there are "kits" available to replace the entire harness if needed.)

    Get TDI parts from (where else) ==>

    FLASHING = (sorry - dont recall but it is NOT telling you about glowplugs) I HIGHLY recommend you visit TDI club website to determine what it means.

    BTW - I hope you realize that the reason for all of your IP (Injection Pump) issues is directly tied to your use of BD (BioDiesel)

    You should always - ALWAYS add Diesl Fuel conditioner with every fillup. In this way, you are adding the much-needed lubricant that your IP needs to survive. (And bumping up the CETANE value to get better MPG)
  • lcw1lcw1 Posts: 36
    Was told by a friend who owned a VW diesel that after a while the smell from the fumes becomes unbearable. He also complained about having issues with the smell at the pump.
    Is that true for all diesel cars or did he have a unique situation.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 31,112
    Diesel smells like diesel. It does not burn your eyes like gasoline. Modern VW TDI engines using ULSD do not put off any odor that I can smell. Unless you stick your nose by the exhaust. If he has an old VW diesel that is burning oil it will smell. Same as a gas car that is worn and using oil.
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    edited May 2011
    We've had our 2010 Jetta Sportwagen TDI for a year now and neither my wife nor I have ever smelled diesel within or outside of the car. I wondered about odor before we bought it, as the car is garaged, but there has been none whatsoever. Even when fueling we've never noticed diesel odor, unless I put my nose right at the filler cap just to be sure it's diesel fuel going in the tank.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    The only time I have ever really had 'problem' with diesel smell is when someone at the pump before me had spilled some on the ground. After stepping in it, I must have had some on the soles of my shoes and the smell lingered inside the car for awhile.

    The other 100s of diesel fillups had no odor problems after pulling away from the pump.

    Lets not forget that the lowest prices for diesel is at a TRUCK STOP. The odor of diesel tends to linger around the pumps due to dispensing 100s of gallons at a time. As the liquid-fuel enters the tank....the fumes must come out. (simple law of physics)
  • jajjaj Posts: 55
    My 2010 Jetta TDI wagon makes a high-pitched sound when the engine is running and lasts for a few seconds after the ignition is turned off. With engine on, it isn't really audible from inside but can be heard while standing outside the car. Anyone familiar with what this might be?
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    edited May 2011
    my 03,05,06,06 TDIs make/made that noise too.
    i think it is related to fuel-pump or electric-fan, possibly a relay.
    I understand it is normal.
  • koolerkooler Posts: 22
    I have not been on before, but if one gets a value range for their used car is it considered to be a legit place like KBB? Also I have a 2009 VW Jetta TDI Sportwagon with about 7000 mi., the long moon or sun roof with the extra inside shade that pretty much extends from the driver's seat all the way back to the cargo area (behind the rear seats. the windows are tinted which is something I spent a small fortune on after I took the car home since it is not uncommon to reach near 100 degrees F for about 2 months out of the year here in Salt Lake City. I am looking to sell the car even know it has been a great car. It has the DSG (automatic/manual but with the DSG which has really been a great addition since it boosts the power in a way I still cannot believe.

    I am going to sell the car once I get it detailed because I was recently diagnosed with cancer and my chemo treatments are taking a lot out of me. With no health insurance and a complete change in my lifestyle, my abilities and desires require that I get a small simple car that can get me just around the town. this was a car I purchased for camping (I used it once for this and I ended up staying in the car with all the seats down and opened the moon roof and the inside shade and with my 2 dogs (which is another reason I need to change cars because they recently passed away, which was kind of unexpected, especially for the Dalmatian.)

    I am looking for the best place or any recommendations on ways to sell this car. I really do not want to trade it in because it gets such good gas mileage, and with the way gas prices are and how good I read used cars that are in great condition and get great gas mileage are really going quickly and some even are getting more $$ than what the owner paid for the car.

    I am open to any recommendations on selling a used car. I have never sold a used car so I have no idea where I should look to do this (like CarMax, and any other suggestions I am open for suggestions.

    I would like some suggestions on the best way to get pictures or are people taking videos and inbreeding the video in the ad? I will need to get a decent camcorder or camera that can take pictures or videos that will work with my MacBook Pro.

    so I am needing a lot of help with this. I am learning y reading posts, google ads, etc. but there is nothing like a person who has actually sold their car recently and is willing to share their experience and suggestions with me.

    Thanks! :confuse:
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 31,112
    First I am sorry to hear of your cancer. We do hope the treatments work and you have many more years. My suggestion on selling is this. I have sold at least 5 vehicles on Craigslist and it is free. You have a desirable vehicle and should be able to get a good price for it. The timing is good. You need to just take good still pictures and post them in the ad. I use Edmund's used car pricing as a starting point. If it still is under warranty you can ask the Certified Dealer price to start. With that vehicle I would not drop my price on the first good offer. If it is in great condition you should be able to get a very good price.

    Be careful of scam artists. The world is filled with them. I would meet any prospective buyer in a busy location. A bank parking lot is good. They have surveillance cameras. Don't let them test drive alone.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 7,770
    The Edmunds TMV pricing (if I can blow our own horn for a sec) is a great source of pricing as it takes into account the local area that you are trying to buy or sell in. It's based on actual transactions for those type of vehicles in the area where you're looking to sell. A VERY simple example would be that a black XYX would command less of a price in Arizona than in New Hampshire because of the color with regard to the heat.

    And when you appraise your vehicle using TMV you can also print out a window sticker that will have all the specs and features of your car along with your pricing. I have several friends who have sold vehicles using a TMV sign and they seem to think it really helped sell.

    Edmunds Moderator

    Need some roadside assistance? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Share your vehicle reviews

    PF_Flyer's 2014 Versa Note Long Term Blog
    How To Start Your Own Long Term Blog

  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 31,112
    That is absolutely my experience selling vehicles online. I am not a fan of KBB. Never seem to be close to reality. Reality being what you actually get for your vehicle selling it. For example from what the gentleman above told us about his VW TDI it has a Certified Dealer price of $25,642. With a paltry trade-in value of $19,876. For me it is worth the hassle of selling to get cash in my pocket somewhere around $5k. That is what the dealer will make if I trade it in. The couple times I have considered trading the have low-balled below trade-in value. If your trade-in is old and worthless then use it to squeeze the dealer. Otherwise sell it yourself.

    There are plenty of people with cash. Whether you are selling an RV for $55k or an old Mazda for $1200. Patience, patience, patience.... ;)
  • lcw1lcw1 Posts: 36
    Sorry to hear about your health problems. I hope you get healthy soon. Do you know if there is a big difference in the design and quality between your 2009 model and the new 2011 models. Did they change the interior on the new ones. Thanks
  • asaasa Posts: 359
    Our 2010 TDI does the same. Not sure what it is, but it's normal.
  • koolerkooler Posts: 22
    Are you saying that all TDI VWs owners should add the diesel fuel conditioner? I am just making sure because I have never heard this. I have a 2009 VW Jetta TDI Sportwagon. I do NOT pay much attention to the fuel or add anything to it except to make sure that only diesel gets put into the car. Is there anything I should be looking for as far as the diesel goes? Like gas has different grades, I have noticed that diesel does have different sulfur levels for the diesel fuel.
    I was caught of guard about adding the Diesel Fuel Conditioner.

    Looking forward to hear your reply on this one.
  • koolerkooler Posts: 22
    gagrice- thanks all for your posts. I appreciate them. For some reason, although I was in the hspt for a week I just realized I had several posts that address my initial post. I was never notified of these posts. anybody know what setting could be off since I did not get any notice of these posts?

  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited June 2011
    If you have never heard of it, then you have not researched TDIs very well. Your question has been asked/answered many MANY times in the past.

    I dont know about "should" add conditioner... but the general consensus of folks that want the most MPG and want their HighPressureFuelPump to last add conditioner at every fillup.

    Because of this, I am only giving you the condensed answer:

    Diesel-fuel addiditive provides several important functions
    The lubricity provides lubricant to your multiple fuel-pumps and injectors.
    just a few integers of cetane can mean 3-to-7 additional MPG.

    I can tell you I that measure EVERY drop of fuel run thru my TDI over the last 130,000+ miles. (Spreadsheet!) I am averaging 50MPG with peaks of 56MPG.

    The all-important measurement of COST PER MILE is $0.05/mile. I do not beleive there is another automobile sold in North America that can beat MPG that TDI can deliver!!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    To answer your other question "Is there anything I should be looking for as far as the diesel goes?"

    The rule-of-thumb is to purchase diesel where it "flows like wine". When diesel is stored in tanks, mold grows in it. Hence, you should look for truck-stops where it does not sit around for long.

    As for "grade". You MUST use ULSD (Ultra Low Sulfer Diesel) in your TDI.

    The very lowest price for diesel will ALWAYS be at truck-stops. In my cross-country trips, I found the Flying J has the best prices. Their website will tell you WHERE they are located and WHAT the current price is.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 31,112
    Thanks for the info on the Pilot/Flying J stations. That is good to know when I plan a cross country trip. What brand of additive have you found to be best during the warmer months. I don't plan to be anywhere cold.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    edited June 2011
    For fuel-additive, I use Power Service Diesel Kleen. Grey bottle in summer and white bottle in winter. It is readdally available at WallyMart.

    I add about 6oz per fillup. I carry a quart-container in the trunk and a supply of cheap paper drinking-cups. I select a paper-cup, crease it to make a pouring-spout and put Diesel Kleen in it. After putting into fuel-tank, I can toss out the paper-cup and the smell along with it.

    Here is an interesting Diesel fuel additive study based solely on LUBRICITY of the products tested.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 31,112
    From that test it looks like running B2 or B5 would be the best choice. Not sure about the Cetane rating. That would depend on the base ULSD used. For those of us in a warm climate Opti-Lube Summer Blend would be the cheapest way to protect our investment.
  • eliaselias Posts: 2,120
    edited June 2011
    kooly, your question re diesel additives is 'religous'. i've put about 500k miles on VW TDIs so far. In the early years I would use additive if outdoor temps were below 0F and car was parked outside. In recent years I never use diesel additive. My current TDI is usually parked in an unheated garage but sometimes is parked outside overnight.
  • koolerkooler Posts: 22

    I have no idea what you are saying. Sorry. If you want to maybe you can put the post in plain English.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Basically he's saying that the decision to use fuel additives is a "religious" one; either you believe in them or you don't. Personally I'm an additive atheist so I won't use them. :)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    For those of you who disbelieve the benefit of using a diesel additive. Read your owners-manual to find out the RECOMMENDED cetane for your engine.. .then read the pump where you get your fuel from. let us know what you discover.

    I concur that using more cetane than recommend does not give you much in return.... but using LESS cetane gives you lower MPG and noisier engine.

    The added lubricity is a bonus ... I assume all of you are aware of HPPF (High Pressure Fuel Pump) failures that some folks have reported.
  • koolerkooler Posts: 22
    well I will have to research this additive thing a bit more. I was just surprised to read a post that made it sound like it was vital and since I did not do it I was a loser or had no idea what I was doing. if my car was 8-12 yeas old and I was doing all I could to keep the thing going, I would look at fuel additives, but I am not sure it would be a good thing for me to add to my 2010 VW Jetta TDI sportwagon. If you have an article I could read that proves how ignorant I am I old like to red it. An article in favor of a diesel fuel additive.
  • gagricegagrice San DiegoPosts: 31,112
    I tried to find any such articles on additives. My nephew rebuilds injectors for diesel engines and claims the diesel we get in CA in inferior. However Bosch says this about using additives:

    Many additives for diesel fuel are on the market and when added to a fuel tank they will supposedly deliver a number of positive effects. These include cleaning the fuel injection system, improving combustion and enhancing performance. It is unclear which, if any of the additives, actually do what is promised.

    What is clear is that using such additives does present some risks as the composition of these additives is generally not listed on the packaging and so you don’t know what is being added to the fuel system.

    Reactions, some of which may not be desirable or described by the maker of the additive, can occur when these treatments come into contact with other lubricants such as engine oil or with engine components.

    Furthermore different diesel fuels have different additives and oil companies do not disclose what these are, so there a likelihood of incompatibility.

    Bosch does not recommend or approve of any diesel additives and the use of these may affect warranty.

    It looks like this link may not be from Bosch USA. So I would not consider it the final word. I just could not find where VW or Bosch recommended using additives. So the debate will continue.
Sign In or Register to comment.