Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Mazda6 Hatchback



  • mz6greyghostmz6greyghost Posts: 1,230
    An '05 with 64K miles? I'd START bargaining at $10K, and wouldn't pay a cent above $12K, since some NEW '07 models can be had for $13999...
  • exit123exit123 Posts: 136
    How could you get a new 07 model for $13999?
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 7,833
    It's Tuesday so that means it's Mazda chat time again! Stop in tonight and meet and greet some of your fellow CarSpace members. We'll talk anything and everything Mazda, automotive, and just plain have a good time.

    The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule

    Edmunds Moderator

    Need some roadside assistance? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

    Just purchased or leased a vehicle? Share your vehicle reviews

    PF_Flyer's 2014 Versa Note Long Term Blog
    How To Start Your Own Long Term Blog

  • dateachadateacha Posts: 13
    Well, I've finally gotten my car back from the dealer. They were 3 weeks getting and installing the headlights. I am not impressed. They gave me the lights at their cost, no charge for labor, which I guess is fair enough. However, they did not transfer the parking light bulbs to the new lights and used my old bulbs despite me asking them to put new silverstars in. I'm not sure they did an outstanding job of reinstalling the bumper, either since the gap at the leading edge of the hood seems a little bigger now.

    Anyways, on the subject of tires for winter driving -- I live in sort of snowy country, in that we have a lot of open time mixed with serious snowfalls in a typical winter. Slush is common. The terrain is hilly and the roads are not straight. I have found a set of winter tires very useful, starting with Blizzaks on an '85 Saab 900 T hatch several years ago. My 6 is running 17" wheels and Aurora tires which were apparently installed by the selling dealer to help move the car. They performed very nicely on ice, but will not pull the hill that is my driveway in more than a couple of inches of snow. Next winter, I'll have either Blizzaks or Michelin Arctic-Ice tires on it and all will be well. I mention the Arctic-Ice because I bought a set for the wife's LaCrosse and the car performs very well in most anything that nature has thrown at us this winter, including the latest 15" snowfall. When we wanted to go somewhere, it went. Granted, we did not have need to go anywhere when there was a level 2 snow emergency in effect, but I think we probably could have if the need arose.

    For winter, if your roads are not plowed, you need a fairly narrow tire with an open tread to disperse the slush and water from under the wheels. A wide tire is a disadvantage since your contact patch is wide but short, whereas a narrower tire has a longer and narrower contact patch. The front edge splashes the slop to the side and the back of the contact patch is running on fairly clear road. You guys that live in the city where the main means to deal with snow is to salt it mostly have slush to drive on when it gets white out.

    With plowed roads and hardpack, a tire with a lot of fine cuts or sipes in the tread surface will help a lot. Dedicated snow tires are a combination of both the above, plus many are made of a hydrophyllic compound that actually is attracted to the ice molecules. In addition, good winter tires have a low "glass transition" temperature, meaning the tread remains soft in lower temperatures, allowing it to deform around minor irregularities in the snow/ice surface, thus providing increased traction. Strict summer tires and many all seasons are designed for maximum tread wear and the compound gets pretty stiff when the temperatures get much below 20F.

    One other note on tires -- the OEM tires are pretty hard to find. I know, you can easily find the same size and name on the tire, but the ones commonly found at the tire store are not exactly the same tread compound and construction as the ones on the car originally. Read the fine print on the tires -- all the codes and numbers, and insist the dealer give you the exact same tire as the OEMs. Not just the same brand, model, and size. It does make a difference.

    My sources for the above information, for those of wondering why you should believe it, are as follows: My daughter and SIL, suspension and brake engineers in Detroit. Their neighbor, who tests tires for many Ford vehicles and determines which of the many suppliers are best able to tune their tires to match the suspensions of the vehicles as they are designed. In addition, I read a lot, and have been driving in Ohio and Michigan (50 miles north of Grand Rapids in the Lake Michigan snow belt) winters since 1962, when I was sent home from the driver license testing facility because the examiner decided it was too snowy and slippery to take the test -- never mind that I drove the 20 miles to and from the test site. :surprise:
  • car114car114 Posts: 3
    Would like opinions on a 2005 Mazda 6, 5 door, V6 S Sport, 6 Speed Automatic, Bose, moonroof, cloth interior, 28,500 miles for aprox. $12,500 with a salvage title. All repair work done to restore left front fender buy local body shop with Mazda parts. Good deal, poor deal, something to stay away from?
  • dateachadateacha Posts: 13
    The price is good for a car that hasn't been wrecked. Mine had about twice that on it and the dealer was asking about 2500 more that what you quoted.

    Personally, I would have concerns about things that were damaged by the impact that didn't show up when it was fixed. How severe was the impact? Was there damage to front suspension components or mounting points? Shock towers?
    Did the airbags deploy? If so, was the dash put back together properly? Did the seatbelts get used? They stretch when they function and should be replaced after a collision.

    There are just a lot little things that can show up after a car has been wrecked and fixed that can be problems later on. There might be nothing or there might a lot of little things or maybe even a big item or two that will fail later. Anything from switchgear to window tracks might have been weakened by the jolt. There could be a hairline crack in the transmission case or something that won't be evident until the weather changes or you hit a pothole, then you could have a problem. The factory warranty is probably out the window with the salvage title, so any drivetrain problems that might arise will be all yours. I would check with the dealer about the warranty before putting any money on the table.

    That salvage title will also make it hard for you to get a decent price for the car when you go to sell it. Check with your insurance company, too. They may not want to cover it.
  • I know that this is a late response but I bought a 2005 5-door AT 4 cylinder with 21,000 yesterday. One owner, alloy wheels, power seats, cruise etc. I paid $13,700 which is more than I wanted but it was for my teenage daugher. The exterior was inmaculate.
  • ccd1ccd1 Posts: 140
    I just purchased the Mazda6 Grand Touring s Hatchback (6 cylinder w/ no nav). I was just looking around Edmunds and it was interesting how similar this car is to one of my favorite cars, the Audi A3 2.0T. Curb weight, horsepower, torque and storage capacity on these two cars is VERY similar. Both cars are fun to drive. The major differences are the interior (Audi has a much nicer interior), the dual clutch with paddle shifters on the Audi, and price (the Audi is MUCH more expensive). The major appeal of both cars, IMHO, is how much fun they are to drive. The appeal and specs on the cars is remarkably similar.
  • milkman1milkman1 Posts: 80
    In my own hunt I keep coming back to the A3 2.0T and honestly I can option it more toward what I want for less than the the grand touring. I only wish the 6 got better gas mileage and was a smidge bigger. I know the A3s is great from driving my friend's Jetta. I also realized that if I were patient I might get a crack at the Lancer hatchback which should have a ralliart edition. That car might be the car 6 hatchback fans out to be looking at down the road.
  • ccd1ccd1 Posts: 140

    Check the prices on the remaining Mazda6s on the lot. I got the V6 Grand Touring s for just slightly over $23,000. That is brand new! I love the A3, but an A3 with the same options as my Grand Touring would be north of $30,000! I also wish the Mazda6 had better gas mileage as well as more power. I would have thought the turbo-charged 4 cylinder engine in the CX-7 would have been a much better choice for the Mazda6 than the relatively anemic 6 cylinder that is presently in the car.

    I agree with you on the Mitsu. The Lancer HB looks great from the pics I've seen and the Ralliart Edition could very well be the car HB lovers are looking for since the 2009 Mazda6 will only be a sedan.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    If they are looking at cars the size of the Lancer, I'd think the Mazda3 could also be the car for the HB lovers.

    I am guessing that younger people are currently the main buyers of HBs, because it is only in the compact segment that they seem to be successful.
  • ccd1ccd1 Posts: 140

    That is probably true as well, but it also points to the loss of the Mazda6 HB. This was a HB for "grown-ups." Unless you knew what to look for, I doubt anyone could tell difference between the Mazda6 HB and sedan. This car didn't look like all the hot hatches on the market. IMHO, that is a good thing. I much prefer the looks of the Mazda6 HB to the A3 or the A4 Avant. In terms of useable space, I'd guess the Mazda 6 HB has more storage space than the A3 and probably not much less than the A4 Avant. I can only hope that Mazda revisits its decision not to offer the HB in the US market with the new Mazda6. For me, the handling,the versatility of the HB, and the reasonable price were the big selling points for the car.
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Yes, but many "grown-ups" families already have a minivan, SUV, or cross-over in the fleet, so see no need for buying a HB over the sedan.
  • ccd1ccd1 Posts: 140

    Point taken, and I have a SUV as a second car. I only have a couple of hundred miles on the Mazda6, but a few things are becoming pretty clear. The Mazda outperforms my SUV in terms of acceleration, handling and gas mileage. The truck is bigger, but the Mazda can handle most hauling duties if it had to. The truck does have 4WD, but I need that 1-2 days a year and didn't need it at all this Winter. IOW, with a mid-size hatch, I don't need a SUV or a crossover. In a couple of years, we will be getting rid of the SUV and it will not be replaced with another SUV. If you look at the evolution of the SUV in recent years, from truck based bodies to car based bodies (CUVs), what advantages do most CUVs have over a well executed mid-size HB??? The question should not be: "I have a truck/CUV/crossover, so why do I need a HB." Rather, it should be I have a HB, so why would I want a CUV/crossover/SUV. In the real world, the way most people actually use these cars, the CUV/crossover/SUV has no advantages over a HB. Name one SUV/crossover/CUV that is as much fun as the Mazda6 without spending truly stupid amounts of money (ie Cayenne, FX45, etc)
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    Don't disagree with any of that.

    With regard to: The question should not be: "I have a truck/CUV/crossover, so why do I need a HB." Rather, it should be I have a HB, so why would I want a CUV/crossover/SUV. I do not think most Americans are thinking that way (yet).

    Also while that might work for us now because our 3 kids are grown, back when they were younger, we did want the minivan (at least we never got sucked into the over-priced SUV mania, though). We were fine with a hatch (Horizon) when there were only 2.
  • ccd1ccd1 Posts: 140

    Congrats on being realistic enough to realize that you (like most Americans) needed a minivan and got one instead of getting a SUV and using it like a minivan! I also agree that most of us are not at the point of preferring a HB to a CUV/SUV, but with gas rapidly approaching $4/gallon, I expect people to re-think this. SUV sales are already WAY down and I expect that trend to continue. The Mazda6 HB may end up being a case of a car that was just too far ahead of its time.

    I'm still on the honeymoon period with the Mazda 6 HB, but I continue to be impressed with the car. I was going to replace my SUV with a sedan, but I'm beginning to think a sports car would be more like it. The Mazda6 seems fully capable of performing the necessary SUV and sedan duties. In fact, while I was at the dealership getting sat radio installed, I was looking at the RX-8!
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    I have a 2005 hatch, and the struts no longer hold up the liftgate. It appears replacing them should be pretty simple. Has anyone done that?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,909
    OK, I answered my own question. Searched on the Internet for struts for my 2005 Mazda6i hatch. One thing I found out is, you have to be very careful to select the struts for the hatchback; some sites make it hard to tell if the struts are for the hatchback or wagon or sedan. I learned through my research that the "best" replacements are the Stabilus struts, which are apparently OEM quality and a perfect match. And I found that is in the case, indeed the old struts were Stabilus. I ordered part SG227008 (2 of them), and noticed there was no indication of Left or Right, although on the struts in my car they say L and R on them. There was a buyer comment on another site about the same part fitting both sides, and I hoped that was the case. Both struts including shipping was only $41.50, and they were delivered in 3 days.

    Replacing them turned out to be a snap, requiring only a small screwdriver and a few minutes. There were detailed instructions with the struts. And the struts were in fact made for either side, you just twist them to fit one side or the other (as is, they fit the Left side). The instructions said to NOT prop open the hatch, but I was alone and found that a heavy, wide snow shovel was the perfect prop rod.

    Now the hatch opens by itself after releasing the latch, just like new! :)
Sign In or Register to comment.