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Chevy Vans: Problems & Solutions



  • isevillaisevilla Posts: 6
    I have a problem with my 97 driver side power window seems as if its off track and once it gets half way up it moves a bit to one side then takes forever to go all the way up. It even sometimes needs to get hit or pulled up and it still doesnt close all the way. I can see where the smudges are where it should go to but it doesnt close all the way. Now to my passenger side window...this one got stuck in the down position and my husband managed to get it back up by taking apart the switch and messing with it and eventually it went up again. Its been a couple of weeks since it happened but we are scared to open it all the way down now.

    I read in a reply to another post that a person bought a new switch and replaced it for a window that got stuck. Hopefully someone can suggest a resolution for my driver side window getting stuck half way on its way up.

    Thanks in advance!
  • Just to update the masses.

    Even though the transmission was working great, as far as I knew, the transmission shop found that the van was not shifting into 4th gear (OD). It gets torn down today. They, transmission shop, is speculating that the clutch plates for the OD in the transmission failed for some reason not known till they tear it down. :sick:
  • Try cleaning the mechanism with brake cleaner and then regrease. You might find while your in the door that there is some worn out parts that need replacing. If your sure that it is the switch then replace it. Most fixes for windows are cheap.
  • jhines1jhines1 Posts: 2
    I would change your fuel filter first but I just repaired a 98 Venture with the same problem and it was the fuel pump fuel pressure checked out ok but not enough volume
  • jhines1jhines1 Posts: 2
    sounds like antifreeze if it is showing up on the inside of the windshield I would say heater core
  • gil99gil99 Posts: 2
    My 02 van guages on console (gas, spedometer, temp) all fall off to the left and are out. The first time it happened I heard a bell ring three times, noticed the guages and pulled over to check for a major gas and water leak and leave the car running. The radio also goes off after 2-5 seconds. The indicator lights in the "problem center" in the gas guage shows a yellow "Security". That was the first time 2-3 months ago, and it was a battery that was split and leaking...repaired.
    Last month the same bell ringed and the same console behavior-all guages powering off at once and then the radio starts again. While this happens the car is running with no apparent problems. It finally dies at the post office, so I pay for a tow to the dealer and it is a loose starter cable. Ok, fixed for $135.00, and now within three weeks its happening again! I just don't want to be stranded somewhere because if the "Security" light comes on enough times the car thinks it has been stolen - is what the dealer told me..........Thanks in advance for any light shed on this problem.
  • mezegomezego Posts: 1
    hi , new here and come here to see if I can get a general ideal what I've got here. The problem is no 1'st gear but seems to shift 2 3 and OD okay .The problem is on a 2000 astro van with 108000miles Will a oil flush help
  • pjw73nhpjw73nh Posts: 4
    Larry (and the rest),

    I gave up. I took it to a local shop that I trust implicitly. I watched as he put it on a totally automated machine. The machine tests the AC performance, tests for leaks, automatically evacuates, recycles, and charges the AC system. My van was low on refrigerant. But it passed the leak test so he thought it was a very slow leak, and will probably need another recharge in 3-4 years. I can live with that. He said that if the machine detects any significant leak it will not recharge the system because of pollution reasons.

    So the long and short of it is... My AC is working as good as new, the two right vents are a mere 3-5 degrees cooler that the others in blazing hot weather. Total outlay $144. He could offer no reason for the differential in temp before the recharge. I hypothesize (sp?) that it has to do with evaporator configuration and or placement. That perhaps the air going to the right side vents passes over the "beginning" or lines of the evaporator that are closest to the compressor, thus they are slightly colder. And as the refrigerant passes further down, it gets warmer, and then the air that goes over the left vents, is not cooled enough. This is only a guess. I do not profess this to be gospel.

    Thanks to all.

  • We feel the same way about our 2002 Venture WB - the cost was high to have so many problems. Our air conditioner failed in April of '05. I should start from the beginning. After a month of owning the vehicle we brought it in for moisture in the taillight, a sagging headliner and a slow driver's window. The headliner we were told they don't know how to fix and it is a known problem (it sags at the overhead console). For the moisture in the taillight, they replaced the tail light assembly. The driver's window, they cleaned out the track saying that sand had gotten into it. A few months into it, we noticed that our DVD's don't always play, but we didn't think anything of that. Now reading these postings I realize my mistake in not reporting it. We also brought it in because our horn beeps will driving occasionally. Of course the dealership could not duplicate the problem. :mad:

    A few more months passed and the window continued to be a problem, horn continued to beep, and there is the water in the taillight again. Back to the shop, they cleaned out the track again, replaced the taillight bulb and still could not duplicate the beep. Then in April of 04 while on vacation I tried the air and discovered it didn't work. I thought it probably needed some freon. When my husband got around to recharging it in June we could see the freon just pouring out from under the car. We were now over warranty by 4000 miles. We showed it to a private Mech who told us that the leak is from the condenser and we should try to see if chevy would cover the $800 repair. Took the car back to the dealership, where they confirmed it was the condenser and that we also needed a head gasket. Apparently the condenser had a bad weld. Estimate for repairs $2300 -- this was almost 2 years from date of purchase with 42000 miles. I told them to get the district rep in so that chevy would cover the repair ( I was a chevy service advisor about 10 years ago so I thought I knew how the system worked -- this is also why I told my husband to buy me anything but a chevy). District rep said chevy would cover gasket but not condenser. Called customer care where we were told we should be happy chevy is covering anything. We felt chevy should cover the condenser also because of the weld failing. Anyway, today, 1 year later I am taking the van to the same private mech to have the condenser replaced and looking for a new Odyssey or Sienna. It is time to cut our losses. If you haven't already bought the extended warranty and you still can, I strongly advise you do.

    We are also already purchasing our second set of new tires because of some sort of alignment problem. Best of luck with this vehicle. It seems like we all need it. :lemon:
  • If you are as fed up with your venture as I am, file a complaint through the NHTSA so that they can research our problems. Maybe they can get Chevy to do something about our similar problems, i.e windows, gaskets, air conditioners.

    Here is the website:

    Copy and paste the address and file your own complaint. Maybe there is a light at the end of the tunnel!
  • vango4vango4 Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2000 astrovan- (cargo) and can't figure out how to turn on the dome lights. There is a domelight override button, which does not appear to do anything. Can someone offer any assistance? Thanks
  • eenaefeenaef Posts: 3
    98 Venture w/ 78k have had since 52k w/ no issues. About 6 months ago (about 8k miles) started this problem of stalling after starting. Then on next try it would start and run ok. Changed fuel filter, injector cleaner, etc. w/ no luck. Then learn if I turned key on to accessories for 3-4 seconds before starting it would start and run fine. Well this has worked 'til now. Now no matter how long I wait it stalls at least once then starts and runs. Suspect bad check valve in pump or weak pump. Would like to check fuel pressure but had myself and 3 buddies climb all over engine looking for pressure gauge ports. Any one know where ports are located? Anyone know if check valve can be replaced or if it is part of a non-servicable pump assembly?
  • kakojrkakojr Posts: 5
    I used Bar's leak for my intake gasket.. It worked WONDERS. I used a small bottle first then a week later put 2 small bottles in when it started to leak... It has not leaked in over a month now and runs great. does not overheat or anything.. I'll let you know if it starts leaking again...
  • dsm1dsm1 Posts: 1
    Cob, I read your reply to gomomma's AC Problem and just want to say THANKS! I was getting really P Od trying to find the VAC leak that I knew I had. Finally after checking over & over for 4 hours I went online to find the answer. I did find half a 1/8" tube w/no end until I found your reply. after that I was done in 5 Minutes.
  • phoneguy5phoneguy5 Posts: 1
    I have a '97 Chevy Astro van that the AC recently quit working. I found that my fan still blows on any of the settings but I don't get the air out of the vents. I can feel a little cold air if I leave it on a while. Anyone know where its going? I have the dash apart looking for any loose wires or vacuum hoses and find nothing wrong.

    Help, its HOT! :(
  • 4mrgmr4mrgmr Posts: 2
    98 Trans Sport with almost identical symptoms and repair efforts. Last year it finally died and I found the wire harness hanging down above radiator fan. I sagged when hot and fan rubbed through protective sheathing and cut wire to ignition module. Symptom improved after fixing wire and replacing broken harness support. A year later, I have stall on warm starts again. Always starts and stays running cold, but won't stay running on warm start unless I press the gas briefly. Then no matter how lightly I tap the pedal, it revs to 2000 to 3000 rpm for a few seconds before returning to idle. Thought engine coolant temp sensor was the problem because its resistance was a bit out of spec at warm temps. Replacing it gained nothing but a sale for GM. Have yet to see check engine light flash, so not willing to buy OBD2 code reader or take to a shop. Would sure like to know an affordable cure.
  • 4mrgmr4mrgmr Posts: 2
    Had same sounding problem as your driver door when I accidentally hit window down in winter with ice on the glass. Took door apart many times to try to fix/adjust it. Ended up buying a new regulator (just the lifting linkage not the whole frame and motor assembly) for less than $50. Worked great for about a year, then started binding again. Took it apart right away before damaging new regulator, and dowsed window channels with silicone spray. Has been trouble free for over a year since then.
  • denisehdeniseh Posts: 6
    The rear air conditioning on my 2000 venture van is blowing hot air - any idea what the problem could be? Mileage is under 88,000. I had a 1997 venture van that I loved - this 2000 venture van has too many problems to list here; some examples are the fuel gauge does not work; service engine soon light pops on intermittently; blower resistor fan had to be replaced in front; i could go on and on.
  • thejermthejerm Posts: 1
    Ok, I'll admit it, I'm definitely no mechanic. I need help!!!! I own a 1993 Chevy Astro, and it has started meking a loud grinding noise. It has progressively gotten worse, and you really hear/feel it when you apply the brake. Which, by the way, has become more difficult. It is like real stiff. I also have trouble shifting the van into reverse from park, which all of this no doubt goes back to the brake. I did notice some ligiud had leaked onto the driveway where the van had been sitting. My guess was brake fluid, but it seems I still have plenty. Any ideas? Thanks!
  • isevillaisevilla Posts: 6
    Where did you purchase the regulator from?
  • asvaasva Posts: 1
    I have 97 chevy Venture Long body(LS). I noticed following problem over time:
    1: Door switches of both sides(Driver,s and Passenger side) for windows and door locks quits frequently. I paid heavy cost of $350 to replace them.
    2. Now A/C quits on me suddenly. It was working alright and stopped working suddenly. I showed to mechanic who is asking for More than $1000 for replacement of compressor, filter/dryer and charging the system.
    3. I have noticed some Oil deposits in Antifreeze overflow bottle. Also antifreeze need refilling frequently as I see dripping of some kind of liquid from engine to floor under the engine. I checked with Couple of Mechanics who advised me to report to GM or one of their dealers for fixing up of this manufacturing defect free of charge. Is it correct view of mechanics.

    I need to know the procedure for replacement of Compressor and dryer as per workshop service manual.

    I will appreciate for the help.

    Thanks and best regards

    Ahmad Awan
  • garryshafgarryshaf Posts: 1
    I have a 98 Chevy Astro. My wife was in a rain storm last week and the wipers stopped while the switch was on. This has been happening more often over the last few months. I have the van in for repair. They want $400+ to replace the wiper motor unit. Before I let them proceed, does anyone have any experience or advice regarding the malfunction? Is there a smaller component that should be looked at?Is it easy enough to replace by oneself? Garry
  • nomaddienomaddie Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 Chevy Astro Van... and I hear a humming in the rear end.. I think it might be the differential... Can anyone tell me about that, or what it would cost to get it fixed? Thanks
  • jw75jw75 Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 chevy astro van , and my head lights along with the tail lights stay on unless I over ride them with the switch but then I have no day time running lights , could it be the sensor on top of the dash? :)
  • my 91 Chev. Van heater fan quit working on settings 1-2-3 but 4 worked fine. Until this summer when i needed the AC 4 quit working. i tried to find the fan so i could remove the module, but i cant find the fan. got any diagrams. or suggestions?
  • cbonsellcbonsell Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. There was a recall on the circuit board that the wires for the wiper attach to. I took it to the dealer when I got the recall notice. It was a quick replacement. I heard it was bad solder joints on the circuit board. I would question the dealer about the recall. I know the recall was also on the Chevy trucks. Hope this helps.
  • hategmhategm Posts: 8
    Problem is wiring in door hinge area. Wires get old an brake. Suggest running new wires thur that area.
  • hategmhategm Posts: 8
    GM recalled 1.5 million trucks from 95-98 with faulting wiper motor. GM recall covered cost of replacement. Unfortually I had all ready replaced it myself to 67.00. GM did reimbust me for the cost not my labor.
  • hategmhategm Posts: 8
    GM Astro' s GMC are common. Heavy truck with all weight forward. Everyone know's they eat tires. I replace 2 tires every 18 months. I've replaced 6 tires on my 2000. GM weight problem ( design) can be reamdied by replace front end componets with Moog parts. You will pay more for them, but its worth it.
    Idler arms run $40.00 for Mug. You will need 2. Those factory ones are junk. I can say after problems with my 97 and 2000 GM's They will be the last ones I'll ever purchase.
  • eenaefeenaef Posts: 3
    Found the problem. Problem started to get a lot worse, stalling while driving even. I was looking at what it would take to replace fuel pump because several people (including Mr. Good (Bad) Wrench) telling me I had a bad pump ($289.00). Directly behind driver seat there is a connector that connects wiring harness from inside van to outside. This feeds several things including fuel pump. I unplugged connector (from under van) and got a face full of water. After looking for a while found the connector inside floor board sits in a little depression so any water/drinks the rug rats spill behind driver seat collects here and eventually gets into connector. (had to take side panel and driver seat out to pull carpet up) I blame the kids but it most likely is the loose rivets that the connector is attached to the floor with allows water to splash up from front tire and seep in around the inadequate gasket. When I found it I had about a 1/4" of water sitting on top of connector. I drilled out rivets cleaned connector w/ contact cleaner and dried everything with hair dryer. Disposed of flattened out foam gasket and reassembled w/ electrical grade silicone sealant. No water can get to connector now from above or below. After letting cure over night it started w/ no problem at all and has run perfectly. That was 10 days ago and problem is gone, in fact the van feels like it has a little more power too. It would have been interesting to see fuel pressure before and after this fix but I could not locate ports to hook gauge too.

    Another interesting thing, in this web site there are a lot of complaints about driver's window not working, mine also had not been working right (some times not going down some times not going up). GM here too said bad switch $79.00. Well I have not had any more problems with that either since this fix to fuel pump connector...related??? I think so because I didn't do anything to window switch, even though this circuit shouldn't have anything to do w/ windows it seems to have fixed it as well. So total cost of repair 3.99 tube of silicone and 2 rivets... sure beats the $289 + $79 I was getting ready to shell out for nothing. Best luck to all, van is running great again no more complaints. :) :) :) :)
This discussion has been closed.