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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Care & Maintenance



  • I had the same problem with my '89 and my boss said for me to check the timing chain. But, i got into an accident before i got to replace it, and it was totaled, so have someone check the chain for you.
  • I have a 1985 V6 S10 with 75,000 miles on it. Lately its been bogging down really bad in the morning. I go out and start the truck fairly easily, and it will run fine for 2 to 3 miles, but then it starts to bog down. It will only go 5 or 6 mph. The weird thing is that when i go to drive it home 6 hours later, it runs perfectly fine. At first i thought it was the choke sticking, so i put a manual choke on. That did not help. I also changed the plugs, wires, fuel filter, and had an oil change. None of this helped. Could someone please give me some pointers.
  • Does anyone know where I can find the ABS fuse in the fuse box. What's it called? or maybe it's located somewhere else.
    Thanks in advance
  • juvyjuvy Posts: 1
    I cant figure out which fuse is for the interior lights none are labeled as interior lights. Please help me out. >.< 91 S-10 Blazer
  • Yeah i have a 1989 blazier, s10 model, 4x4, its got over 220k miles on it, i was driving home after my friend put the fuel filter on wrong and now its leaking, well thats just the start of it, the gas peddle made a loud like pop as my foot was on it, and when i tryed to crack it agian, it wont stay cracked, it shot like fire and threw the air filter from above the fuel injectors to the hood, and.. oil just vanshies, doens't leak, no burns out of the exhaust, just goes some where, so.. i just paid 300 bucks for a new engine but its a 1988 s10 model, my question is.. can it go into that body, and work without to many changes, going to use parts from both trucks to get the newer one working

    please email me at
    with any help you can provide, thanks
  • Hi, I have a 93 s10 4x4 blazer with 44k miles, and it doesnt go to high idle when first started on cold days, it just idles like it has been warmed up. It will also smoke a little, but mostly when it's a little warmer outside, it also takes longer to start the warmer it is, any ideas?
  • my brother was doing a tune up for me and he had to stop for other reasons, I went to put the new spark plug wires on and noticed that he took the wires off at the distributor with no order attached, its an s-10 95, with the vortech v6, is there some way to get the order of the plugs to the distributor? I have a hanes manual, but cannot locate any firing order for the distributor. thanx,brettj.
  • Sir,

    The Firing order is:

    1 - 6 - 5 - 4 - 3 - 2

    Hope this helps you out

    Thanks Friend
  • hey! just a note, I did figure out the fire order and it started!!!!! Yea!!!!!, but now a new problem I have to check Out, I have a steady stream of oil dripping on the snow, which of course, wasn't there before. Smells plastic like, with oil. As you look at the engine, its on the left underside about halfway back on block, hope the block didn't crack!
    My dad worked for G.M. at the orion plant in MI. retired and moved up here in 90. He has passed on since, but he tried to get me in there to work, but instead I went into the Marine Corps, spent 12 years, fun.
    Anyway sir, thank you for everything and hopefully this truck will run for me now. Ill talk to you later, Respectfully, Brett
  • adamsandadamsand Posts: 1
    :confuse: I have a 2001 S-10 with 130,000 miles and i have changed the plugs and wires, but i heard that there are other things that i might need to change (distributor cap ect.) Anyone know what else might be a good idea to change.
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Even when I don't change the cap and rotor I pop the cap and clean the metal electrodes with my pocket knife and inspect for corrosion. On more than one occasion I have had the center carbon electrode to have been broken. Sometimes the cap won't be that old. Sounds like it's starting to get a little age on things like the belt and hoses. They may be in good shape but then again they may be about to have an annerisim. I recommend you take your time and give everything a good visual.

  • webb3webb3 Posts: 5
    yep i did check the problem there.
  • webb3webb3 Posts: 5
    its not the spider injectors either.when it goes bad you will really no it because all the gas goes into the intake plenum and floods the cylinders and fouls the plugs.then you have to take all the the plugs out and a bunch of other crap that i have done twice.not the fuel filter either.changed it three times in a year and half.put on new fuel pump and it ran great for almost 3 months and started all over again.luckily the pump has lifetime warranty but labor doesnt.local mech done it for 85 bucks this time and it runs great again.i am getting rid of this headache this week cause i cant stand the damn thing.
  • on my 92 S10 pickup i recently shaved the handles but tried a different appoach to open the doors....needless to say it went wrong, if anybody know anyhting about the door poppers and solinoids, please let me know....i was wondering how long it takes to complete the installation on ONE door...(i've NEVER done this before) i need help :confuse:
  • webb3webb3 Posts: 5
    here is something i forgot to add before the third fuel pump went out.when i started loosing power going uphill or it would stall trying to pass another car i could turn the ignition switch off and on real quick with my foot on the gas pedal and it would pick back up speed for awhile.i had to do this all the way back from charlottesville virgina to hickory n.c. thats almost 300 miles but i got the thing home.but today is the day i say bye bye blazer.until america can make a car that holds up like the foreign cars the american car market will always be hurting and laying off cause people can only take so much of a bad thing.thats just my opinion and we no what there like.after reading eveything in these forums about the s-10 blazer i will never ever on a chevy again.people out there have blazers that have never gavw them any trouble at all.but not me.this has left a bad taste in my mouth that i will remember every time i see a blazer no matter how nice they look.good luck to all that have one with the same symptoms as mine!
  • oniparonipar Posts: 1
    My service engine soon light went on and I noticed a slight gas smell when I first exited the truck (which goes away quickly).

    Basically narrowed it down to an Evap problem. A mechanic told me not to worry about it and not to bother getting it fixed because it costs a lot and isn't something that will cause further problems.

    Of course I don't quite trust this information and wanted some other opinions.

    Will this cause future trouble? Does the cost to fix outweigh the benefits of having it working properly? Any opinons would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • borob1borob1 Posts: 3
    I have a 1994 sonoma 2.2 4 cyl. 5 speed/The only way it will start is to barely pump the gas pedal and once it starts the only way it runs is with my foot on the pedal/As soon as I let off gas pedal it stalls/also there are no codes coming up
    thanks bob
  • jnealjneal Posts: 247
    Check your fuel pressure.
  • borob1borob1 Posts: 3
    I checked fuel pressure and it is 40-41 /Now the truck has started perfect for 5 days /today sunday 5/14 /06 it didnt start again unless you barely push on the gas as soon as you let off gas it stalls
    thanks bob
  • twellmantwellman Posts: 3
    I just picked up a 93 sonoma w/4.3 V6. The digital dash doesn't seem to work. The warning lights work, but the tach, speedo, oil pressure, gas gage don't. Checked fuses, they're OK. Where to look?
  • kydansrkydansr Posts: 1
    :confuse: I recently bought the 2001 S10 with 106K miles. the service engine light is now on and the two error codes show secondary air injection system failure and manufacturer controlled transmission failure are either one of these items something i can fix myself since I enjoy doing my own repairs when possible?
  • My inspection is past due and the only reason I can think of that it wouldn't pass is my check engine light is on. It's always on! I got a letter from GMC saying that I "may experience illumination of the (check engine light)...this may be due to pieces of the inner liner of the front exhaust pipe breaking up and tumbling into the catalytic converter..."
    I already tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to reset it all and that damn light was the first thing that was on when I started it back up and it stayed on. It was extremely frustrating because it was the second inspection appointment I've had to cancel. :mad:
    Do I really need to invest $200 in a new catalytic converter just to get my check engine light to shut off so I can pass inspection?!? :confuse:
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Dear Frustrated,

    From what you described, are you sure its your cat that is causing the light to stay on? If you don't have a code reader you can take it to most part stores and they will read it for free. They won't clear it but they can read it and give you a better indication of whats going on. Keep in mind that some times the code isn't exact, its just a starter in that direction.

    In order to clear the code you can use the technique you outlined or clear it with a code reader. However, before you can clear the code you first have to remedy the reason the code came up to start with.

    Talk about frustration, I had to install a cat on my S-10 to get it to pass inspection. I used aftermarket and made it fit. I made new flanges and brackets and it all looked purdy when I was done. I was happy and patted myself on the back. One of the new brackets I made I mounted it to the bottom of the cab (bad move). It set up a vibration of which I miss-diagnosed as a bad transmission. After I dropped the tranny, had it overhauled, and re installed I discovered that wasn't my problem, it was the bracket mounted to the bottom of the cab.

    That wasn't the dumbest thing I have ever done but I won't forget it for awhile. Sometimes you just got to have a since of humor.

    Good luck :shades:
  • Thanks for the feedback. I will definitely get it scanned to see what it says. I guess I just kind of assumed since I had that letter that the catalytic converter was the problem. Silly me! I think the last time I had it scanned two years ago it said something about a hose - so it might just be a cracked hose and a matter of figuring out which one. Should be a nice Sunday treasure hunt! Thanks again :)
  • I replaced mine when the speedo quit working and it gave me code 24 (VSS). It still didn't work afterwards due to the wires from the sensor that go over the top of the tranny being burnt. I had to feel mine by hand, replace them, then it was fine. Good luck
  • well u may need a new speedometer or it could be a wire or a fuse ;)
  • I need to replace converter but it is welded on. Can I cut the old one off and use clamps to put the new on. Where do you purchase clamps?
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    You can find clamps just about anywhere, they're common. At first I replaced mine as you described. Later when I needed to drop the exhaust system I cut just aft of the converter. Then going back I welded new flanges in as to make it easier the next time I need to remove something. Some aftermarket cat converters have a slip joint on one end and a flange on the other. :)
  • dkurrledkurrle Posts: 20
    2003 ZR2.
    Has anybody else experienced air flowing through your vents, similar to if the fan was on low, when you have the knob on OFF. ??? any suggestions?
  • Check to see if you have a vacuum leak anywhere. I had the same problem with my '98 S-10 2.2l last year and found that my vacuum lines under the hood had become brittle and had many holes. Replaced for ~$3.
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