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GM's triplets Venture, Silhouette, and Montana



  • jhdjhd Posts: 20
    There is a class action suit against GM for leaky intake manifolds, separate in the US and now in Canada. I have two GM cars and tomorrow is my third visit to the dealer with dexcool running down the engine. Enough is enough, I want my money I spent on the repairs back. Do the search on the net, class actions are easy to find. :lemon:
  • cccjpmcccjpm Posts: 6
    I'm about to have my SECOND gasket replaced in my 2000 Olds Silo two years and 31K miles after the first. I did get GM to do a 50/50 "good will" split and since GM was paying for half it was done at "warranty cost" which saved me a little more. Now two years later and WAY out of warranty no one (GM or the dealership that sold it and has already repaired it once) is willing to do anything. This will probably be my last GM auto and definitely the last from that dealership.

    The van was great for the first three years (while it was under warranty) and was the best deal when I bought it. The three years after the warranty ran out haven't been the best experience. I spent more on the van in the time I've had it than I did in the 11 years I had my '94 Maxima until I blew the engine in the Maxima. Yep, you guessed it... leaking gasket... :cry: but that was on a 12 year-old vehicle where the temp gage wasn't working. I should have fixed the temp gage and I probably wouldn't have blown the engine (hindsight being what it is)...

    Well I'm not going to give the dealership or GM the $700 to fix it this time (they did such a good job last time that I'm having to do it again). A buddy of mine is a mechanic and will do it for less but it's still too expensive to fix a MANUFACTURING DEFECT that GM isn't standing behind.

  • euphorbiaeuphorbia Posts: 14
    I have two issues that may be related to a vacuum leak. One is the heat/defrost vent doors don't open properly and I get minimal airflow when in all settings except vent and bi-level. The second issue is the A/C shutting down at highway speed under minor acceleration. Both of these issues are new. My vacuum gage reads 18"hg at idle with a/c off and 17 with a/c on. Is that a normal reading for the 3.4 engine?
  • euphorbiaeuphorbia Posts: 14
    Ref. #1392. I forgot to mention that when I step on the accelerator in Park the RPM's get to the point that the engine suddenly slows down, speeds back up and suddenly slows down again repeatedly. I had the same thing happen on another car with a vacuum leak. Any input is appreciated.
  • boga228boga228 Posts: 50
    To all who have their van still under warranty, If you suspect that you have a coolant/oil gasket leak, I would recommend that you get it repaired. They have the new intake gasket p/n 89017279. Make sure you refer them to Service Bulletin 03-06-01-010, because of the new torque Spec's
  • euphorbiaeuphorbia Posts: 14
    I have a 2002 Olds Silhouette with front and rear air. For the past month the van sends cold air then warm air thru the ducts. I can feel the compressor cycling on and off as this happens.

    I purchased a Chilton’s HVAC manual and a set of gages to diagnose the problem. The Chilton’s manual is so general that I am not getting anything from it. The gages indicate relatively normal low (About 32 psi) and high pressures (about 310 psi) at idle with the system on max. As I increase the throttle from about 1200 to 2000 rpm the high pressure quickly climbs to about 435 psi and the compressor shuts off. From these symptoms can anyone diagnose what is wrong with the system?
  • indrgbindrgb Posts: 115
    Are the condenser fans (behind the radiator) running during idle? If no, there's your problem. If yes, then I would guess either non-condensibles in the system or perhaps a restricted condenser coil.

    Another thought: Has the system ever been charged? Maybe someone charged it with R-22 by mistake.

    Yet another thought: If the expansion device is a TXV, it could be stuck, or filled with trash causing the high side to back up.
  • Replaced rear factory air shocks with Gabriels from Autozone.
    Also installed kit. Could not find regulator that kit says to remove. Problem is compressor goes off every time get in van, What is problem?
    Height seems OK. Is it the electrical height sensor? Can it be calibrated? Did put in new spring in dryer. Where does line from dryer go? Seems like it goes into side of van and comes out again to a T and then to shocks? What is the 1/4 inch tube from compressor T to frame for -- is it for the aux value for pumping up balls and tires from the hatch area? Is it unregulated?

    Also, how hard is it to replace outer tie rod ends? Any tricks besides a pickle fork? Thanks.
  • n7donn7don Posts: 188
    To remove the tie rod ends you'll need a steering linkage puller. I'd check availability from someone like Autozone for loan. Count the turns when removing the old part. Also make some reference measurements so when installing new ends the same number of turns, you are still in the ballpark. I had to do some tweaking. Finally you should get alignment checked. Toe is the only adjustable setting on our vans. GM torque specs are 22 ft-lbs plus 120 deg (2 flats).. this is for a 98 Montana but would guess the same.
    There is a TSB on a new tie rod end and how to sand the sharp edge that "cuts" the rubber boots. The LF boot was cut on mine. However I replaced with Autozone units. They have grease fittings and a different geometry on the boot. I will say at 100K miles mine were still tight.

    Can't comment on your other question
  • boga228boga228 Posts: 50
    Tie rod end removal. really you don't need a puller just used a hammer to remove, unscrew the nut and pound on the stud until the it comes off. only time you need a puller if your going to reuse the tire rod end again.
  • djj48djj48 Posts: 1
    My 2002 Montana has been leaking water into the RH floor area ever since we bought it new. I took the issue of insufficient evaporator drain nipple length and "missing elbow" up with Pontiac and the dealership after we first got the van. Pontiac refused to address the problem but the dealer tried to glue an elbow on the short drain nipple but it subsequently fell off and my carpet is soaked.

    I found out a 1/2" copper 90 degree street ell fits perfectly over the drain nipple and goes all the way into the foam donut. I coated the inside of the elbow with silicone sealer before I put it on. The smaller side of the street elbow points down the front of the firewall and this will direct all the water out of the vehicle.
  • euphorbiaeuphorbia Posts: 14
    The condenser looks to be in good shape and the cooling fans are running. My guess is that something is restricting the freon flow and allowing the head pressure to rise quickly.

    I did have the system charged when it blew a pressure relief valve on the front of the compressor. It happened when I parked the van and leaked off a lot of the oil and charge. The tech that looked at it only works on cars, trucks and semi's so I don't think they even have R22, but I will ask them if they have any in inventory. The tech said that everything looked ok and he could see where it blew but the relief valve looked ok. He recharged it with freon that had die added so that it would mark anywhere it may be leaking.

    Your final thought is what I am thinking too. I'm hoping that someone with the same vehicle may have experienced the same thing to confirm.

    Thank you for your insight,
  • smepps1smepps1 Posts: 1
    I bought an ,01 used in ,o2.We have had troubles ever since.So far I have replaced a heater core,stereo,tie rod ends,AC condenser,intake gasket,and now it is in the shop to have the head gaskets replaced.I sold my Dodge Caravan thinking my troubles would be over.{what was I thinking}I am currently trying to deal with GM to cover anything any suggestions?
  • psimonlpsimonl Posts: 7

    For a couple of years (2.5 actually) I came on this forum to read and learn and even sometime ask questions regarding my 2000 Montana with apprx. 100.000 Km.

    As for now, My wife and I decided it was time to sell the van. We had put 5K $ on it sin November 2005 and we decided to go japenese.

    It all started with the famous intake manifold, followed by 4 suspensions, disks and drums, starter (was 20 000K old :surprise: ) something in the exhaust system, abs light went on without warning even after the 4 wheel bearing were changed... And we are not talking about the transmission that had started to slip and gears where getting noisy. We tried to contact GM, only answered with offers on new vehicles.... :confuse: We tried to Love the van, but couldn't: We used to love that van, but we now felt that everyday, something could break.

    Sorry for the bad news, I just don't think American cars are up to it anymore. They are good for as long as the warranty goes.

    Take care you all...

  • hhua1hhua1 Posts: 41
    Our 2000 silo ran fine. After a short stop, went back out, tried to start the car, I can hear a click than everything went dead it acted like no juice at all from the battery. I thought we were having the famous electrical problems.

    Able to get a jump started and went home.

    This is what I found out with the battery tester, the one with the little read, amber, green lights and the positive and negative connector at one end.

    Anyway, I measured the car body ground and the positive jumper terminal located next to the fuse box on top of the battery, it showed very weak or dead battery. But when I measured the car body ground and the battery's positive terminal itself, it showed the battery was good.

    I traced the wire from the positive jumper terminal and it goes directly to the battery positive terminal. I unbolted the battery positive terminal and saw that it was only little corrosion, however look careful there was rust on the bolt inside that connector. I worked the bolt and cleaned it up. Viola it worked.

    So before replacing the battery or accusing the electrical gremlins in our van, make sure that all connections are cleaned. Weak battery connections can make our van acts like it has electrical gremlins.

  • kmfkmf Posts: 2
    Where is the low pressure A/C port on a 99 Venture? I want to recharge the system and can't find the port. (sigh)

  • hhua1hhua1 Posts: 41
    I hand washed the engine of our 00' Silo with engine degrease and garden hose. After the wash I let the Silo sat until it dried. Started the van and it ran fine. However, the front wiper acted wild, in no certain patterns, one example is the ignition switch on and the wiper switch is off, but wiper was running. I knew that the water may have get in the wiper motor and the wiper controler (they are one unit for our van). I let it sat for a day but it didn't help. I was think that I need a new motor. I decided to give it a last try and took the motor off and blew dry it with air compressor of a good 5 to 10 minutes, I blew air in to the motor connector and at the hole at the end of the motor itself. This solved the problem.

    So if you your wiper motor acts funny, there may be water in the system, try to high pressure air dry it first before going for a new one.
  • My 1997 Silhouette minivan check engine
    soon light came on Friday during rain storm
    (7/28/2006). Still on (7/30/2006) after many trips and
    code is P0441 (Evap system no flow during purge).

    Checked fuel cap, evap canister, and hoses for damage
    and cracks. Look OK.

    What could it be? Any body have ideas or had this problem?

  • boga228boga228 Posts: 50
    check evap canister purge valve if it's working, also check evap vent valve too.
  • maubreymaubrey Posts: 2

    Can anybody give me some information on replacing the radiator on a 97 Venture. I have not had to work on this van before and don't know if I will need to do anything special. Does the rad drop out the bottom, or do you remove the upper engine mounts and lift it straight up?

    Any help would be appreciated.


  • dirkworkdirkwork Posts: 210
    Well, I haven't done this, but seeing the undercarriage I'd say you would pull it out of the top. The motor mounts are easy to remove. Good luck.

    98 olds GLS, 130k
  • ronsmith38ronsmith38 Posts: 228
    I have a vibration driving above 40 mph. It seems like a pavement vibration with a frequency about that of the off the road indicators if one goes too far right. I have replaced all tires with a front end alignment. The problem is worse on left turn curves. Has anyone else seen this?
  • After a collision where the air bags deployed I tried to find the air bag module under the driver's seat. Nothing there. The Engine Control Module is under the Passenger seat. Any one know where I should be looking?
  • n7donn7don Posts: 188
    There's an "Inflatable Restaint Sensing & Diagostic Module" or SDM shown under the passenger seat. Looks like it's has a cover w/3 screws.
    The ECM should be located in the air cleaner assembly, not under the passenger seat.
  • We have a 2001 Venture which just this past summer has a water leak somewhere under the centre consol (I think). At first we thought it was a leak in the windshield and went to an auto glass place but they cannot find a leak. Finally had a good overnight rain and I checked the floor this morning and did not find any water. The floor is getting soaked primarily on the drivers side and it would seem only after driving. The AC system seems to be draining ok. I have removed the trim and pulled back the carpeting to have a good look but am baffled by the consol section.
    Any thoughts or advice would be most welcomed.
  • ekocholekochol Posts: 1
    Had water on floor drivers side. Was coming from undeerdoor panel onto carpet and running underneath. Lifted off door panel and resealed plastic that keeps water from coming between panel and window . May need some new clips available at auto parts store. Run waater on driverside window and pasenger to see what side leaks :
  • I own a 2000 Olds Silouhette. Pretty good vehicle overall, though I have experienced many of the problems I have read about in this forum.
    My current issue involves paint delamination on the fiberglass hood panel. There are two significant areas (opposite corners) where there is bubbling and lifting of the paint from the underlying surface. There are no evident scratches or stone chips in these areas and so far, the paint hasn't flaked off.
    Has anyone else experienced this? Is GM aware of it and/or willing to step up and take care of it? The paint on a 6 year old vehicle should not be degrading to this extent. Pls let me know if anyone knows about this.
    Thanks - Tim
  • I think the hood is aluminum not fiberglass. This may point the problem in a different direction, maybe a priming problem. My 2000 Silo does not show this problem, and it sits outside all the time in the NC climate.
  • Well, there it is in any case (under passenger seat). I've checked with Delphi/Delco and it is the same as they currently manufacture. We're going to look other places but this is making me a bit crazy. Why do they put things in the wrong place???
  • n7donn7don Posts: 188
    Not sure what's in the wrong place. The module under the passenger seat is accessed by removing the seat and lifting the carpet. I'm not sure if you are trying to troubleshoot something or what. Since this is part of the air bag system I'd recommmend, if not familiar, to read up on how to disable the SIR system before proceeding.
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