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Toyota Corolla Basic Maintenance Questions



  • Sorry, now that I reread it, it does sound bad. All I need to do is drive the car in the same area at night to see what visibility is like. No damage will be done to the car. The owner could even drive it if they want. I'll keep looking, just thought people here would know other people with Corollas. Thanks!
  • I have a question on warranty coverage on my new Corrolla, with comes with standard 3-year basic warranty and 2-year Toyota Care. Do they cover maintenance like auto detailing or other bodywork like dent removal, etc.?
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Only if it's spelled out in your documentation. Must be listed.
  • I think that the dealer was nice enough to show your dirty cabin filter.
    wouldn' t you continued breezing foul air off the the dirty filter if they didn't show it to you? plus, many people are not mechanically inclined at all, and not be able to
    replace the filter like you did.
  • You were correct! The car didn't start a couple days after the dealer said it was not the battery. We called the dealer and they towed the car. Guess what? They now found a "bad cell" in the battery that was not there the first time. They offered to replace the battery with "whatever Toyota puts in 2010 corollas" OR we could possibly get a better battery (at higher cost.) We went with the replacement battery. The dealer needed to keep the car for TWO days to make sure that it would start over night. So that is 3 days to the dealer for a battery. I bet WALMART can beat that schedule! I did check if the battery was one of the several recalls on this car, but none were for batteries.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Don't know if I would call the dealer "nice" because he did his job? He'd be very neglectful if you paid him to do preventative maintenance and he didn't check this cabin filter. I'd call it a typical dealer rip-off for a 5 minute job. If you can open the cardboard box that this filter comes in, then you can install it; whether or not you choose to is your decision. Some people would rather donate the $40.00 to the dealer just to avoid a 5 minute job.
  • Hello Everyone! This is my very first post. I have had a few issues w/my breaks (pads mostly, i guess) and I wanted to ask for assistance. I purchased my car in 2005 from a dealer, it had 3,500 miles on it from a first owner who was "traveling out of the country". I never had any major issues with the car until this past Fall/Winter. I noticed the breaks becoming less reliable. I drive to the city every day, but I basically just put 2 miles in the city, most of the other way I drive is in the suberbs on semi-highway roads. Sometimes theres a lot of traffic, sometimes there isnt. Most of the time the other cars on the roads drive like crazy lunatics. Tailgating has become a daily ritual. I get very worried when a car is very close to me from behind (driving or at a red light). I've had two people hit my car from behind and it may be taking its toll (psychologically) on me. The last time was just this past July, we were 6 cars in the accident. The culprit was two cars -SUVs- behind me. I drive safely but also not too slow, not too fast. Just in between.
    Going back to the issue @ hand, the breaks of my car are giving me a hard time. After fixing the break past this past December 31st, I keep experiencing unreliable break motions. I have to break much earlier than before. The pads dont seem to be very strong. I always go to the Toyota Dealer for maintenance. In February and again just today (June) I have gone to the dealer so they can re-check the pads. Yesturday on my way home, everytime I'd press on the breaks I would have to press far too much down in order for me to feel the breaks doing its job. Also, Whenever I put the A/C on the breaks feel even worse!! I cant put the A/C on anymore! :( So today when I took it back in (just as what happened in Feb) the dealer tells me that the break pads are fine and they cleaned it and tightened it up for me. They looked all throughout the car and couldnt find any fault with the breaks. I asked them "Could it be something else perhaps!?!" They said they looked everywhere and did a test run for 2 miles and couldnt figure out what I was talking about because the breaks were "fine".
    Am I delusional ?! Does anyone else with a Corolla have the same issues as me?? My car has 58,500 miles on it. As I mentioned before I bought it with 3,500 miles.. I bought it in October 2005.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Putting on the A.C, increases engine RPM's. Therefore if your brakes are not grabbing as before it would make sense that the increased engine RPM's would even make it seem more so. However, if there was a problem with the brakes I believe a test drive would have confirmed this with the dealer. With your past driving history perhaps sudden braking might actually have been the initial problem with the original set of brake pads.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Posts: 117
    On a car that's at least 6 years old (you didn't say what year it is) I would suspect a failing brake master cylinder.
    A weak master cylinder can act up intermittently.

    In the future have the brake fluid changed every 3 years (2 years with ABS).
    That will greatly extend the life of brake components.
  • What do you mean by "With your past driving history perhaps sudden braking might actually have been the initial problem with the original set of brake pads." ?? I don't stop suddenly, and never have.
  • I mentioned that I bought the car in 2005 with it having 3,500 miles on it.. i would assume you'd figure it was a 2005 Corolla w/my title as well ;)

    I'll have the dealer look at the master cylinder. I had an emissions inspection done on my car last week and it passed. I do put break fluid in my car and I have a bottle on hand.

    Btw, I used to have a 1990 Jetta (from when it was 9-15 years) and I know quite a bit about dealing w/older cars.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Don't take it personnal, but quoting your own words, you spoke of your erratic brake behavior, others tailgating you, being in two rear enders where you were hit from behind and possible physcological problems with braking and questioning if you are delusional with this braking issue. I thought perhaps there could be some kind of correlation between all of these episodes. Perhaps the initial brake pads were way too grabby attributing to some of these issues that you spoke of and actually the real culprit to start with. Maybe the brake pads you have on now are really the way your brake pads should be. In other words the real problem could have been the old set of pads not the new set.
  • holidaylisaholidaylisa Posts: 4
    edited July 2011
    Okay, I should tell you about the accidents..

    Both accidents occured during my drive into work. The first one was when I was on the left lane of a two part lane going one way when this lady in an SUV was trying to get to my lane from the right lane. She didnt wait for me to pass by (my lane was moving, hers was all stopped). I normally drive even slower, expecting people to try to get to my lane. But this woman just slammed on her gas pedal and obviously didnt look before trying to go to the left lane. The speed limit was 25 in that area. The woman hit me from the back side and back area. She either didnt see me or didnt pay attention. HER FAULT.

    The second accident, like I mentioned in my original posting, was a 6-car accident. And, like I mentioned, I was in the 3rd to the back row. So, three cars were ahead of me, and two were behind me. The front 5 cars were stopped (again, a 25 mile an hr area) when this lady in her SUV comes speeding from the light that was two blocks away. She was on her cell phone and wasnt paying attention. We were stopped for at least a minute or two before we all got hit (and hit each other). Again, NOT MY FAULT.

    I don't believe I mentioned ANYWHERE about my brake behavior being horrible!! If anything, I mentioned that it takes a while before my car comes to a complete stop when I press the breaks. If driving the speed limit and safely is crazy, then I guess I should drive like a maniac and tailgate other drivers!! NOT! Just yesturday I saw three SUVs flipped over- probably hit each other before going to the side ditch of the road. No thank you!! I'd rather drive safely! I live in a major city with too many crazy idiot drivers. Almost every day there are at least 2-3 accidents and people are always driving like they're playing a game on their x-box!
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    I don't believe I mentioned ANYWHERE either, about your brake behavior being horrible!!

    I hope you resolve your brake issue.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Posts: 117
    edited July 2011
    "i would assume you'd figure..."

    We all know what happens when you assume...
    However I see it's in the title, my bad.

    "I'll have the dealer look at the master cylinder"

    Nobody can tell if a master cylinder is bad just by looking at it.

    "I do put break fluid in my car"

    Topping off the reservoir is not the same as flushing out all the old fluid and replacing with new.
  • I would suggest you become informed before using a KB about facts as opposed to just your dangerous opinion!
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    And I would suggest you just disregard my "dangerous opinions" as they were not intended for your reading anyway.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,042
    Not sure what's "dangerous" about suggesting that another member try to find an honest, qualified mechanic, and that the vehicle owner should make sure their vehicle is being maintained & repaired properly.


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  • visch1visch1 Posts: 6
    ANYTHING on the net is reading matter no matter how poorly informative it is. How does Transmission fluid get dirty at 30,000 miles. It might get burnt if you are having transmission problems but not dirty. “It might be a good thing to get it changed for viscosity purposes, but not dirt.”
    You must be a chemist, I never knew viscosity changed, thanks!

    “Even so, 30,000 miles seems way too soon for that.”
    And a auto engineer as well!
    “I certainly didn't know timing chains had oil leaks, or "O' rings for that matter.”
    Pray tell what gizmo is it that keeps most lubricants getting past shafts?
    “Why did you have your brakes replaced in the first place?”
    Some people are hard on brakes, but only Einstein would know that.
    “ Rotors should never have had to be replaced at just 30,000 miles.”
    Another real internet gem for misinformation.
    “Did you know they can be resurfaced for just a fraction of the cost to replace them.”
    Quite true, but do you know what specs they were within?
    “Also, brake fluid should never have to be changed unless it got corrupted with water, you would feel this in the firmness of the brake pedal.”
    Good maintenance advises changing brake fluid as it absorbs water from the air into the MC and will rust out the brake lines from within. Water is NOT compressible so will not be felt on the pedal. A soft pedal indicates air in the system.
    That’s enough about what I mean regards to misinformation on the internet
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    I never knew viscosity changed, thanks!

    You just keep reading and you'll be surprised what you can learn from not just me, but most informed Toyota owners as well.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,498
    > It might be a good thing to get it changed for viscosity purposes, but not dirt.

    What does this mean by viscosity changes?

    How does the viscosity change?

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    After years and thousands of miles of the same fluid sitting in the bottom of your transmission it stands to reason newer fluid would not be subject to the constant changes in temperature,moisture content etc. that would all change the viscosity of the fluid. You don't have to be a "Chemist" to figure this out. Perhaps you feel it never needs changing ? ? ? ? If so, why else change it if it's not burnt ? ? ?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,498
    >the same fluid sitting in the bottom of your transmission it stands to reason newer fluid would not be subject to the constant changes in temperature,moisture content etc. that would all change the viscosity of the fluid.

    I still haven't seen anything to explain a viscosity change in transmission fluid. Is it hydroscopic? Changing temperature... how does that affect it other than overheating in which case there's a clear indication of need for change due to the additive package changing color.

    Transmission fluid doesn't have the same shearing of molecules as does engine oil, which does change viscosity--some.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • visch1visch1 Posts: 6
    “After years and thousands of miles of the same fluid sitting in the bottom of your transmission it stands to reason newer fluid would not be subject to the constant changes in temperature, moisture content etc. that would all change the viscosity of the fluid. You don't have to be a "Chemist" to figure this out.” I guess it’s true because you said so. Ok now I get it “act as if” even if it‘s wrong. Spread the internet truth! Check what the ATF viscosity is and what affects it. FYI viscosity is for the purpose of measuring flow.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Whatever floats your boat man! I wouldn't change it then.
  • visch1visch1 Posts: 6
    Good on ya! I'm gonna go throw out my throw out bearing, it's got 50 K on it,
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Sounds good, go for it !
  • continuecontinue Posts: 1
    On the 09-newer Corolla there is another place under the hood where mice can enter the cabin area of the car: Look down behind the engine where the grey A/C lines pass through the firewall. Just above the lines where the poorly placed foam is supposed to seal off the hole, there is just enough gap in the foam for a mouse to squeeze through. Plug it off with silicone.
  • bilsafbilsaf Posts: 1

    I have 2001 Toyota, Corolla. it has 104,000miles. last time I had tune up was in 60K miles. Should I get tune up done now that it has hit over 100k miles. What should tune-up include? Also, I recently had breaks replaced, tires changed second time, first changed them at 50K, since then when ever I break very fast, push break to the end it makes knocking noise like 'tuck, tuck' I showed it to couple of mechanics and a transmission specialist they have no idea what that noise is from. I would appreciate if someone can help me.

    I love the car, bought it brand new in 2000, no accidents, it has been so good to me, great with gas.

    Thank u so much!!
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Posts: 117
    "What should tune-up include?"

    The Owner's Manual is the place to start.
    Beware of extras that shops recommend, like "induction service".

    See my last post here:
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