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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair



  • danielj6danielj6 Posts: 285
    Hi everyone,

    Today I got my car back from the shop after replacing the battery and alternator to the tune of $380 w/tax. My Corolla is an '04 LE, and will be 7 years old in about 3 months.

    I'm reeling at the bill and fear that I was taken to the cleaners. I went on line to find prices for the above mentioned parts and saw a variety of prices. So I don't know. Saturday morning the engine didn't turn and made a rattling noise, which made suspect that was coming from the alternator. I called my mechanic and after describing the situation he said it's the battery. I didn't quite agree but kept quiet as I didn't want to give him any ideas about replacing more parts than needed. Well, he checked the system and found the alternator to be draining the battery, which he said was in bad condition in the first place. I know I should've replaced the battery a while back, especially after the winter we had in NY. However,
    the mechanic didn't say anything about it when he serviced the car in December '10.

    Any replies would be appreciated.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Don't know why your reeling!If you actually had both a bad battery and a bad alternator then the price of this job was fair. Labor - $70.00 - (1 hour)
    Battery - $100.00
    alternator - $200.00 for a genuine OEM alternator
  • I'm with you on this Shiftright.
    My left leg gets tired after an hour or two of stop and go traffic.
    Why speed up that process with a lot of extra shifting?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    Actually I started paying more attention to how I drive in traffic, and in fact I don't ever down shift coming to a red light or stop sign--I just push in the clutch, apply the brake and then put it in neutral.

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  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Well no it's not "EXTRA" shifting, it's called engine braking for more control of your vehicle. In bad weather when trying to stop, you're much more likely to loose control of a coasting vehicle , then a vehicle that is engaged in a gear. In your case though, perhaps an automatic would be more suited for your particular driving characteristics. In certain states like New York, Michigan and California to mention just a few, coasting and not engaged in a gear, is even prohibited by their motor vehicle codes.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    I don't think we're talking about the same thing, tom. I meant you know, coming up to a stop light at a leisurely 25 mph, not careening down a hill or anything. Given how little one has to tap the brakes to stop at those low speeds, it seems that downshifting is simply not necessary for braking---and I trust none of us are in danger of losing control of our vehicles at those speeds.

    Besides, downshifting on a slippery surface is about the worst thing you can do, as you get "compression braking", which is the same as 2-wheel braking---not a great way to stabilize the car IMO.

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  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Again there are arguments for both methods of slowing a car. Coasting is illegal in so many states though? I know if you coast in neutral with a manual shift automobile, to a red light in PA. (my home state), you will fail the driver exam. for lack of control of the vehicle.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    I don't think they'd fail you for putting your foot on the clutch as you approach a red light. You actually have to, or you'll buck in 4th gear as you slow down--which might make you fail-- as would making the inspector's head bobble as you slam into gear and compression brake.

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  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    No, I'm sure they wouldn't but that's not the example I used either. The example was coasting up to a stop in neutral. Approaching a stop in fourth gear as you would, just sounds plain old lazy to me, not to mention the required amount of clutch riding time which would definitely increase clutch wear over an extended time and extra brake wear.
  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Posts: 117
    edited March 2011
    To "terceltom"

    I'm very familiar with engine braking, how it works and when it needs to be used.
    I made no mention about coasting in neutral.
    My shifting style closely matches Mr Shiftright's and I don't think he mentioned coasting in neutral (beyond a few yards) either.

    I've driven manual shift vehicles for over 30 years and I think you've made some unfounded assumptions about "my case" in order to further your agenda.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Please don't get so serious or offended; this is just a friendly disscusion about two different driving styles, that's all. Trust me, I have no agenda to offend anyone, if I did I appologize. But my oppinion is, weather it's a few feet or a few blocks, when not engaged in a gear that IS coasting. JUST MY SOLE OPPINION !
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    Well you have to coast sometimes in a stickshift car--it's unavoidable, because you have to depress the clutch pedal in order to stop without stalling.

    Of course, in a few more years I suspect that the clutch pedal will be as obsolete as the starter crank handle or windows rolled up by hand.

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  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Your probraby right, I think by then driving will be obsolete, the cars will just take us where we want to go just by typing it in or telling it. Isn't technology just wonderful ? ? ? ?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    I hope I'm dead by then.

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  • I put my hand up to feel the seal from the inside of my new 2010 corolla s today. It had snowed and was raining a bit. And i felt a bit of water on the seal. Its been closed for days. Then in the gutter type part below the seal there as a bit of water aswell. Is that normal? I have never had a moon/sun roof and have no idea if its normal to take a little water on around the seal. its not like i see the water inside or feel it. but just want to make sure its not a big issue.
    -also any suggestions to get rid of all the rattles and creeks the car makes when i hit bumps? for a new car it makes alot of noise!

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    yeah that's okay---that's why sunroofs have drainage holes. It's the plugged up drainage holes that often cause sunroof leaks, not the seals so much (unless they tear).

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  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    I was just going to concur with what Mr. Shiftright stated. Every year or so I have to run a little wire down the two drain holes on either side of the moonroof on my 2009 and 2001 Corollas to reopen the holes to avoid the wetness around the seal.
  • ssshahssshah Posts: 2
    Its not a big issue, all u have to do just change the rear brake light holders, they r the one causing problem.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Am I missing something? How does changing brake light sockets help the car shift into "Drive"?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    If your brake lights don't work, you might not be able to release the Park lever when you step on the brake pedal, because the shift interlock relies on the brake light switch.

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  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Yea but that's totally different, your refering to a bad brake light switch in the example your siting. I'm sure a bad brake light bulb or bad brake light bulb socket is not going to prevent you from shifting into "Drive". Even I know that!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,579
    Well you're probably right about that but I never say never when it comes to cars.

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  • kenb1357kenb1357 Posts: 1
    tomi1 did you ever get an answer on the oil leak problem? If so what was it, please.. Ken
  • kero1kero1 Posts: 154

    My wife's 05 corolla LE, 70K miles has the following issues

    #1 clock spring needs to be replaced, confirmed via enhanced code scanner at my buddies shop. no problem, understands what needs to be done

    #2 lean bank 1 cel code, mechanic advises to replace, not clean the maf sensor. If needs to be replaced, no issue, understand what needs to be done, can do this myself.

    #3 Most concerning and upsetting is the P0741 cel code. ECU replaced under recall a few months ago, code and cel comes on and off every so often over the past few months. Car drives perfectly, no shift maladies of any kind that I can feel at this point.

    I have done a tremendous amount of research on this issue and there is no concrete direction as to how to handle. Some people say simply change the tranny fluid, 2 different tranny shops say that will not help at this point, they say fluid change alone would need solve the problem. 1 tranny shop says replace selanoid, 1 says torque converter. Both are expensive repairs that ARE NOT GUARANTEED to resolve the issue. The two shops that this is a very hard code to diagnose and repair due to the many culprits that can be causing the issue. They inform me, speed sensor, selanoid, torque converter, internal tranny damage, or wiring or connector issues can all cause this issue and that several hours are needed to try and hunt down the issue, again, with no promise that the work done will fix the issue.

    What I would love to know is if anyone has experienced this problem after the ECU recall, how did you handle it. What did you fix to resolve the issue finally.

    I have read nightmare stories of people replacing many different things and the code still comes back up, after sometimes, spending thousands of dollars on tranny repairs, etc etc.

    I don't have the money to blindly fix things hoping that it get fixed and def don't have the money to replace 1 thing after another until it's resolved.

    I really need some help here and hope someone can point me in the right direction.

    After further discussions with the two tranny shops, both were highly recommended by personal friends, that if I don't have the money to diagnose and do several repairs, should 1 repair not solve it, to trade the car and don't look back.

    It's a shame at only 70K miles, well treated car, well take care of, not absued, to have all 3 issues, one of which seems to be a big problem. We have only 8 payments left and would hate to have gone through all of them to have to get rid of the car.

    Upon researching this issue, I see tons of owners with this same issue but yet to find any concrete info on how they resolved the issue, many of whom spent large amounts of money for the code to only come back up again, sometime days after replacing full transmissions.

    Begging for some help here, PLEASE...................................
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Okay, let me see if I follow you. This was a Toyota recall on the ECU correct? Wasn't that just a software update? Okay if it was a "recall" car doesn't have to be in warranty to get this work done at Toyotas expense.
  • kero1kero1 Posts: 154
    edited May 2011
    There was a voluntary recall on toyota's part to replace corolla faulty ECU's due to a soldering issue on the boards. The original ECU's were throwing bogus CEL codes and things of that nature or the car's just would stop running alltogether.

    Part of the list of items under the recall was the P0741 cel code. This recall has nothing to do with fixing or replacing tranny components from my understanding and even if it did, that portion of the recall we would have been well out of warranty. The ECU recall only was for 80K or under I believe.

    Toyota did infact replace our ECU with a brand new one and I verified that on the national toyota board.

    Based on my research and feedback from others on that board, the new ECU in the car is most likely NOT the cause of this new problem, just coincidental that I have the same code that was partially covered by replacing the ECU in the first place. This problem is more widespread than I originally thought, go into google and type in P0741 corolla and you will be quite surprised to the amount of people who have this issue, again, can't find a concrete resolve. Many people have done different things to have the code come back after spending quite a bit of money. It's quite scary actually.
  • geodrivegeodrive Posts: 20
    Dealership said that the front brake pads of my 2009 corolla are worn out...only a little bit is left and should be replaced asap.
    May I know how much should it cost to get the new ones ? Only the front brake pads.
    He is giving me an estimate of around 430$.
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    If you would like to replace the pads on your own, pads typically cost approx. $68 per axle, and can increase from there depending on the material the pad is made from . So your looking at around $135.00 tops for the pads themselves. Shouldn't take the tech. more then an hour to snap them in place. Figure around $200.00-$225.00 for the job at a dealer, probably cheaper at an independent garage. $430.00 is a rip-off!
  • geodrivegeodrive Posts: 20
    Thanks man...
    they are charging a substantial amount for the Caliper service as well which is actually making it too costly...
  • geodrivegeodrive Posts: 20
    Also, if I don't get them replaced from a certified location, does it impact my warranty by any chance ?
    I have a 2009 Corolla.
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