Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair



  • I meant that I didn't have any lights on my dash to indicate that I had a problem with anything electrical (tire pressure, abs system, etc). The car has about 12,200 miles on it now, and I've already been looking at replacement tires for my car because yes, it's currently equipped with goodyears. I looked up reviews for these OE tires and they are absolutely horrible! I can't believe that they waste material making such crap tires...I also can't believe that Toyota could spend an additional like $40-80 and get 4 tires that are actually decent. I still have a bit of treadwear left on these tires, so there's no need to replace them yet. Otherwise I'm going with Kumho, Yokohama or I read some awesome reviews of a Hankook tire on tirerack as well. Michelins and decent Bridgestones are much more expensive....
  • did you find out the problem..have a 1993 corolla also. when step on gas no pwer. email with answer if you hvae
  • Yeah unfortunately I was reading it really fast on my phone and replying on the phone as well. I also need to make a correction the reason I've never felt the ABS on my wife's Corolla is because it's not present on her '04. However, with my Acura I've never experienced the ABS modulation even when I drive it hard.
  • Yes unfortunately I misread your post. I absolutely hate Goodyear tires. From my observation most entry-mid level cars have crappy tires. I personally prefer Falken tires as a good inexpensive tire. We've been through a few sets on the Wife's corolla as I tend to change tires prematurely. Right now we have a set of Costco Michelin tires on it. If you get a rebate with them they're not too expensive. I also like Bridgestone (not the RE92's though), Pirelli and Yokohama's. I've never owned a set of Hankook but heard decent things about them and I absolutely hate Khumo tires. When was around you could get Falken tires for cheap. Now it seems like VulcanTire has the best prices and you can get the ZE-912's for $65 a tire.
  • I have had a belt and tensioner replaced on my 2007 corolla. There are rattling noises (sometimes loud) under the hood. The air box vibrates profusely. No one can pinpoint the problem. This noise happens when the car is in drive position and idle (traffic light, stop sign, etc.) When in park, no noise.

    Can someone help me with this problem? Is the engine bad? I have had 2 computers replaced on this car.


  • circuitsmithcircuitsmith Posts: 117
    edited September 2011
    Could be a bad or loose motor mount.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    edited September 2011
    Agree on the loose or bad mount, especially because they would have removed the mount on the passenger side while they put on the new belt.
  • My 1997 RAV4 makes the same noise on the passenger side and I had the tensioner belt changed in Feb. I mentioned it to the mechanic and they do not seem to hear it but it also does it when idling and occasionally when I am driving on the highway. It was very loud this last time. How does this get fixed? Or better said, as a woman, how do I tell the mechanic what the noise is?

    And while I am on the subject of being a woman dealing with mechanics (something I have writen about before and changed mechanics because of it), this new mechanic appears to have also taken me . I took the car in because of a leaking O ring that was not fixed by the previous mechanic. The car was also making a noise that they decided was my timing belt and that I needed a new one and a water pump. I told them that it had been changed in 2008 and was warranteed by Napa. They did not do business with Napa but I did not want to pay for another belt, etc. so I contacted Napa myself. (I used to pick up parts for my former mechanic a cousin who passed away and I knew everyone there). Cousin's death is why I have had to fine a new mechanic. Anyway, I was told not to pick up the parts as they would not know what it was till they took the car apart. You are going to love this! When I went to pick it up, they said they replaced the whole kit -belt, tensioner and waterpump to which I responded that I hoped that they had gotten the Napa parts because I did not feel that I should have to pay for them. Oh, says the mechanic, I was wrong. It was the problem, only the tensioner and proceeded to change the bill which still came out to $700, This mechanic was recommended by friends and a lawyer that I am associated with, Drove the car home and lo and behold, bad noise again and leak in driveway. Take it back. Examined again and showed the leak -- power steering fluid leaking -- another big bill. New noise --power steering makes noise when I start car until it wams up. Noise gets worse. Back to repair shop. Change power steering belt because it must have gotten oil on it when they "fixed the O ring". Guess what? Still leaking in my driveway and I have not gone back to him!!!
    In the middle of all of this, the muffler falls off. Also under warrantee so I ask Napa who I can take the car to and they recommend a kid who used to work for my cousin. I pay the labor charge, he turns in muffler and gets paid. It was a pleasant experience but the car is old and I am trying to hold on to it for awhile because I really love the car and can't afford a new one.

    So here I am with a car that still has the original noise and leak and I no longer know who to trust. How does a woman find a trustworthy mechanic and do any exist?

    I know the simplest thing to do would be to buy a new car if I could afford it but then it will start all over. I want to continue with the kid who fixed the muffler but I know he is not happy that he got involved in the muffler warrantee deal but why are things "warranteed" if you can't follow through on it?

    Sorry for the long post but I am sure you can appreciate my frustration. In the meantime, how do I tell the new kid that the motor mount is loose? He'll never believe that I am on this website. Actually he probably will. LOL
  • Well I just found another post that I wrote back in May. #96 under Toyota RAV4 Battery and Electrical Problems. No one answered me there. I wonder if anyone will answer me on this one. LOL I'll bet if I look back further, I will find the one I wrote about mechanics pushing $499 package deals that must be done to keep car running properly -- an obvious money maker. I believe I wrote that one in 2009.
  • You sound like you know a thing or two about tires to look for! I recently bought a tread depth measure, and the tires look like they have about 6/32nd left. I live in the Sierras, so we get snow about 3-4 days a year and lots of rain. I called up the Toyota dealership and spoke to a mechanic. He explained that pretty much the ABS/Traction control systems are reacting to the poor traction from the tires. This is on dry roads (both gravel/pavement). I can't go over a pothole on my gravel road at <10 mph without my pedal shaking. I've driven a Taurus, Legacy, Civic and Rav4 over this same road dozens of times without the ABS kicking on like that. It's unnerving. I'm wondering if I should go a few thousand miles or if I should replace the OE tires sooner? I think I'm gonna get a set of Michelin X Radials from Costco. Was also looking at the Pirelli P4 Four Seasons because they'd be a bit cheaper. Why don't you like Kumho tires?
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Obviously new tires would be better in frequent snow, however, if your going to replace tires when they have 6/32 of an inch tread left on them, I hope you start saving your money. Average new tires used on cars typically start with 10/32" to 11/32" of original tread depth so you can see your tires have more than half of their life left yet. You'll be replacing tires often if you keep up this practice. Too bad you live in the Sierras, I'd buy those Goodyears off of you.
  • I think the tires originally have 11/32" of tread, so I am over halfway through the tread at 12,400 miles when you factor in legally replacing the tires at 2/32". My concern is that if the tires have poor traction on dry pavement and gravel that's making my traction control control come on, what's gonna happen when it rains? We average about 60" of annual precipitation, which is really quite high so wearing the tires down to 2/32" would be pushing it so replacing them closer to 3/32" or 4/32" seems more plausible. That's probably about 5,000 miles left, or about 5 months for me. I think I might wait for the next deal on Michelin tires through Costco and do it then (current one expires in 3 weeks).
  • If it were me I'd change them now but then again that's just my preference. The Pirelli's are a nice tire as well. I wanted to get the HydroEdge w/Green X tires for my wife's corolla but they were on back order at the time and nobody had them in stock in her size. Costco can order them as well. The sidewall with the HydroEdge tire drops to a 60 versus the stock 65 and that will give you a bit stiffer ride with better tire feedback and less sidewall roll. Nothing crazy though and you might not even notice it. My reasoning for not liking Khumo's is based on past experiences. I'm not a fan of their compounds as they seem to be a hard tire and in the winter time traction was non existent and equaled me sliding into a curb at 15mph. There was no damage to the car itself other than the rim was bent so much it rubbed on the coilovers. After that I was really done with them. That was on an AWD Subaru Impreza. I limped it home and put the stock rims and tires on it. I was running an all season Khumo as well not a dedicated summer tire like I run on my current car.
  • windgracewindgrace Posts: 84
    edited September 2011
    I read reviews of the Pirellis and they seem to have good handling, traction and warranty, although most post 3-5 mpg drops with them. Michelins seem to get rave reviews all around. The X Radials from Costco with the rebate isn't much more than a set of Pirellis installed elsewhere. I think I'm gonna call Costco up today and ask when the next deal on Michelin tires will be up again and wait a few more months. The HydroEdge was what I wanted most, but even on the Michelin website I cannot get them in the correct size. The X Radials get good reviews, probably very similar to the Harmony.

    I posted this in the Subaru forums with no feedback yet, but I'd like your $.02...My mom has a 2010 Legacy with the OEM Bridgestone Turanza el400-02 tires. Tirerack rates these tires last, with the poorest ratings all around. Last year I drove on 1-2" of fresh snow and the car slid! Kinda scary, considering she bought it for Subaru's AWD system. That was with 8k miles on the tires. They're at 19k now and have like 8/32" up front and 7/32" in back after rotating the tires. America's Tires will buy the tires off of her for like $20-40 each if she wants to trade them in for something better (which they recommend, and I was told pretty much anything is a step in the right direction). So I went on Tire Rack and there's a number of tires that get great reviews. On the more expensive side are the Bridgestone Turanza Serenity, Michelin Primaxy MXV4 and Goodyear Assurance ComforTred. On the cheaper side is the Yokohama Avid TRZ and the General Altimax HP, which is something America's Tire, Tirerack and a local tire place also recommended. Any input would be appreciated.
  • Like I said in order to get the HydroEdge you will have to go with a 195/60-R15 instead of the stock 195/65-R15. It's really not a big deal and the tires will fit no problem. It just means the sidewall isn't quite as high and in all honestly the corolla can probably benefit from this.

    As far as the outback is concerned I'd probably go with either the Michelin MXV4's or the Bridgestone Turanza's. Seriously stay away from goodyears yuck! They're called goodyears because it'll be a good year if they last it.

    The nice pro to buying from Costco is road hazard,free tire rotations, and nitrogen. I tend to work on my own cars but my garage is a small 1 car and rotating tires isn't something I plan on doing in it. So having free tire rotations should ensure you get the most out of your tires.
  • Where are you located? Have you thought about joining Angie's List? My wife's friend (single mother) went to a Merchant's near us. They took her but she had no idea other than suspicion. She sent home the receipt with my wife and asked me to look at it. After looking at it I came to the conclusion that they robbed her of over $1,000 for things they never even did. They charged her 2-3 times the amount the dealer charges for factory parts and yet they installed garbage. So the following day I called and talked to the manager and drove up to the Merchants where I met my wife's friend. I made a scene on purpose because they basically raped her. Do you know the idiot customers in there at the time still dropped their cars off with these robbers. I was baffled. At the end they agreed to refund her something like $1,100. It's sad that I had to do this for her but I was more than happy to do so. My best advice is find a friend that knows cars and ask them to go with you. That way you feel comfortable knowing that they aren't taking advantage of you. That and join Angie's List. If you're in the NoVA area I can point you to a few reputable mechanics that I do work for.
  • Hi auto experts out there...I was quoted $2045.00 for the following repairs to my 2001 Toyota Corolla: transmission rebuild (for loose bearings = super loud grinding noise while I'm driving on the highway and in the higher gears when i'm slowing down and need to downshift), plus a clutch replacement and rear main seal repair. Does this sound about right to you? Any advice (or ribbing because I don't know anything about my car) is welcome. Also, the car tends to "miss" every 20 seconds or so while I'm driving...and sometimes almost dies while idling. The "missing" problem only started in the past couple weeks but the grinding sound in the engine has been getting steadily worse for about 6 months. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,564
    Well this is one of those "while we're in there" type of repairs...since the transmission is coming out, and apart, it makes sense to replace not only the bearings (it's actually called a "small parts rebuild"), but the clutch, pilot bushing, throwout bearing, pressure plate and to remove and resurface the flywheel (if needed). IN addition, there may be various coolants, belts, hoses, etc. that could need yeah, I could see it running up to $2000, especially the labor, which is going to be most of the cost. It would be nice to fix the engine miss before you get into all this, though.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • Thanks Mr Shiftright, this is good info.
  • Hey thanks for all the help! I'm gonna look into changing the sidewall height on tires...but I think the X Radials will be fine enough and I don't have to go through the hassle of more research! The current Goodyears are just rubbish...I've noticed a decrease in ride quality and road noise in just 3k miles on the tires. Ridiculous waste of rubber.

    Since it seems like you know a bit about cars and tires I wanna pick your brain a bit more if you don't mind! Considering the current Bridgestones suck (EL400-02) on my mom's Legacy getting the Serenitys might be a hard sell but maybe I could talk to her into 'em. Either way, Costco alternates between Michelin and Bridgestone discounts. The Michelins are probably the best, but they are pricey. The BFGoodrich Advantage T/A and General Altimax HP get good reviews on TireRack and are like $200 cheaper than a set of Michelins. Any advice on those? I mean, is the price negligible considering the quality of a set of Michelins...?
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Just in case you really want to find out much more about tires there is a forum on Edmund's devoted to just "Automobile tires", called "Tires, Tires, Tires"
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,564
    Thanks for mentioning that, terceltom. The link is here for TIRES TIRES TIRES

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • :o
    Wow, thank you for that! I must have missed that when looking around!
  • I have a 1990 Corolla (bought used) in which none of the power windows work from either the master switch at drivers door or individual door switches. Had hoped this would be something simple like a blown fuse, but I can't even find a fuse labeled for power windows (or PW), and all installed fuses are good. Any ideas?
  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    Could be very simple, how about the master window lock located on your drivers side arm rest? Is it unlocked? This has fooled me many times in the past.
  • Thanks Tom,
    I did try the master window lock button, but it didn't work (unless there is a problem with the switch itself). I'll have to check into that a litle deeper.
  • Hey, just a quick update:
    I finally got sick of the OE Goodyears (wore down to 5/32nd" in 13k miles...ridiculous!) and I didn't want to go into winter driving on crummy tires (I figured if the traction was so poor that my ABS and traction control flared up on rough dry pavement then winter would be awful) I finally took the Toyota dealership's advice to replace my tires yesterday. Got a set of Michelin X Radials from Costco for just a hair under $450. They need a bit to break in, but already a huge improvement. My ABS doesn't kick in going down the usual roads like before, and road noise is pretty much nonexistent. Where the Goodyears howled at 65 mph I found myself going almost 75 before noticing my speed because it was so much quieter. A little firmer than the Goodyears, but they need to break in a bit more I think. I could actually get Hydroedges from Discount tire in the correct size (195/65-15) but it would have been at least $140 more for the tires. I spent hours researching tires and almost pulled the trigger on Cooper CS4 Touring but the Michelins came out to be cheaper so I couldn't say no to that!

    I took the car in to the dealership for an alignment today and asked the mechanic to check out the b-pillar rattle. After an hour I got the car back and I was told the rattle was diagnosed and fixed. Accelerated out of the service department and the rattle flared up. Turned around and drove with a different mechanic, who couldn't believe I've had a hard time diagnosing the problem because the rattle was so audible. He spent almost 2 hours trying to fix it and ended up ordering a replacement part for the interior trim. I think they have to replace the whole section that the seat belt comes out of, because he said the problem went away when he uninstalled the seat belt. Either way, it's covered by warranty and I hope that solves my issue!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,307
    >Got a set of Michelin X Radials from Costco for just a hair under $450. They need a bit to break in, but already a huge improvement. My ABS doesn't kick in going down the usual roads like before, and road noise is pretty much nonexistent.

    The road noise may come back on certain types of concrete pavements. I've noticed my Michelins tended to do that. Also as they start to wear down about 1/4 or 1/3 of the way some road noise reappears.

    But Michelins have stayed round and rolled round for me for decades. The only thing to watch is to use them up before they age--the rubber that gives the excellent mileage along with good traction tends to crack after some years. People who don't use up the 80+K miles of tread life in 4-5 years may see dry rot signs.

    Good choice.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • terceltomterceltom Posts: 1,022
    What did you do with the tires you replaced?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    You said in another post that the car previously had dent repair - wonder if the rattle was related to the dent(s)?

    Michelin X - great tires. Expensive, but worth it, when you consider how important tires are safety-wise.
Sign In or Register to comment.