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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair



  • dmac99cedmac99ce Posts: 1
    I have a 99 corolla CE and my driver side window has been giving me problems for a while and now it wont go down at all do i need a new window regulator or do i need to change the fuses and if changing the fuses it it where is the fusebox located to do it ???
  • My 1999 Corolla has over 214,000 km (133,000 miles), manual transmission, original clutch, and I have been fighting an oil consumption problem for two years. I lose a quart every 1,500 km (1,000 miles), so if I don't fill up between oil changes, it would be bone dry.

    One dealership told me this consumption was "within Toyota specs", but another dealership never heard that before. They figured it was a carbon buildup and attempted to remove it by removing the oil and spark plugs and putting a heavy-duty pre-tune-up fluid to dissolve the carbon around the rings (compression test before this came up "normal", so no cracked cylinders), and leave it sit overnight. Put in new oil and spark plugs, and away I go. Although I got a noticeable increase horsepower (two year's of combusted oil in the cylinder chambers didn't help performance), my oil consumption is the same as it was before.

    The car is otherwise in perfect condition, so I'm seriously considering an engine overhaul...
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    First thing I'd do is consider the possibility I have a stuck PCV valve. Cheap stuff. Pull it and shake it back and forth. If you can't hear the ball bearing in it move (click/clack), replace it. It can contribute to oil consumption.

    Second thing I would do is place a white sheet of poster board down on the ground under where I park. I'd look for signs of dripping oil, and see if I could locate it. Maybe you have a leaking oil pan or leaking drain bolt.

    Third thing I would do is use an engine degreaser to clean the engine free of junk. Then I would drive it for 1K and see if there was an obvious source of leaking.
  • Thanks for the quick response! I'll have to look into the PCV valve, since that sounds like a new recommendation.

    As for the oil leak checking, I have had three engine shampoos to check for seepage over the last two years, and although a tensioner O-ring was replaced, the mechanic didn't think it was the primary cause for the oil loss.

    I park the car in the same spot on my driveway for the past 6 years, and there isn't a mark on the driveway at all, from any stains.

    When the spark plugs were last replaced, there were only about 20,000 km on them (12,000 miles), and a couple were already showing signs of problems. I had them replaced last summer since the last set were actually causing mis-fire problems because one of the spark plugs was completely gummed up (likely from trying to burn oil along with the gas).

    I have had a mechanic (always Toyota service centres for the car) think that a sludge build-up on the valve covers could have been the cause of the oil consumption, and they put in a Wynn's engine treatment, but that didn't resolve anything. I have tried various engine treatments from Valvoline, etc., but didn't want to do too many, since they may conflict with each other and complicate the issue further.

    The last thing I heard from one of the mechanics was a potential problem with the short block, but that sounded sort of vague.

    Thanks again for helping!
  • jean70jean70 Posts: 3
    My corolla is only a few hundred miles but since I bought it I've always had difficulties with the 3rd gear which is very hard to put (I have to go to neutral each time before which is not viable).
    I'd like to try to raise the clutch pedal: can someone explain me how to proceed?
    Thank you for your help
  • I am completely new to Toyota engines, but this month's Rod and Custom mag showed a couple of Model A street rods that had non-traditional engines in them. Not the typical 350/350, 454 or flattie engine, but 20R and 22R engines. The horsepower and speed accessories are easy enough to come by and easy enough to add as desired. Adding some sidedraft carbs, be it Webbers or 240Z made it look pretty good in the pics they showed. I have a 1930 tudor that I plan on swapping the stock engine out of in the near future. I am interested in learning more about these engines and would like to know which would be the better choice if economy and ease of repairs is more the issue than getting break neck speed out of the engine? I have heard they are almost give aways at many wrecking yards, but I am trying to find the best year model that would likely be easiest found and parts changed as necessary. I hear the 20R has a round intake and exhaust that is more desirable than the 22R. What year model Corolla would offer the best choice for this cruiser application? Is there any year model without all the computer gizmo stuff or is that something I'll just have to take as a given? Anyone have some good engine pics to share?

    Again, this is not meant to end up as a cookie cutter street rod, so this engine may not be what a traditionalist street rodder may want to envision, but it will work for me. Any tips on sites that may be helpful?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    Manuals are a little stiff at times when brand new, but this should go away soon - if not, back to the dealer! What exactly do you mean by "very hard to put"? Do you have to put in neutral, release clutch, then engage clutch and try again, or what???

    What do you mean by "raise the clutch pedal", and why would you want/need to?

    Again, please more detail.
  • jean70jean70 Posts: 3
    When going from 2nd to 3rd, I have to stop in neutral one second (without releasing the clutch) and then go on 3rd.
    For 3rd to 4th or 3rd to 2nd there is no problem.
    From 4th to 5th I just have to go very slowly.
    There is no carpet below the pedals.
    I thought that tightening the cable would make things easier: don't you think so?
  • Are you putting your foot all the way to the floor every time you shift? Maybe trying only 3/4 on the way down and see if that helps it any. Or you can try to double clutch it and see if that does anything but you shouldn't have to in a Corolla. I'd take it back to the dealer if I were you.
  • jako1jako1 Posts: 22
    My fender is damaged, I am thinking of buying one and painting the fender myself to match the current paint. Anyone has tips or a process that I should follow to Paint. Its a 98 Corolla and I was thinking of buying from Shucks/Napa.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    If it happens everytime, then take it to dealer.
  • jean70jean70 Posts: 3
    Yes, I put the foot all the way, this is why I thought that adjusting the pedal would be easy to see if there is an effect, but I have not found the Haynes for the Corolla.
    So you think it is not related to the clutch but has something to do with the gear box itself ?
    I am on holiday at the moment, but I'll try to go to the garage asap.
  • vincewood30vincewood30 Posts: 48
    When you take it back to the dealer they'll have a tech drive the car with you to see what the problem is. If they have to keep it just make sure you insist on a free loaner car. Just tell them that the car shouldn't be doing that and you want it fixed. If you feel like they're trying to screw you around or anything it doesn't hurt to get a bit nasty with them. And this is coming from a guy to got asked to leave a dealership yesterday while shopping for a car with a friend of mine. Yes I was able to tick off the sales manager/salesman that
  • marcela112marcela112 Posts: 2
    The solution this problem is have the charcoal canister change. The canister has two purge valves to take the guess of know with one just replace the canister it comes with the 2 purge valves. The part # 77740-02102 for corolla 2000. once you call the dealer you will see they have it in stock they tell me this purge valves go bad on corollas.

    The charcoal canister is located by the fuel tank under the car. It looks like a back shoe box with hoses coming out of it. To reset the check engine light do it with the hand held machine or just unplug one of the battery terminals.

    The cost of the canister is around $250. this is a dealer part.

  • ed6544ed6544 Posts: 6
    help needed. have a 99 corolla with dash lights (all instrumentation, radio, ac controls, even auto tranny indicator) that have totally gone kaput.
    any ideas/suggestions would be much appreciated.

  • grandtotalgrandtotal Posts: 1,207
    Sounds like it might be a fuse. Have you checked them all?
  • ed6544ed6544 Posts: 6
    thanks for the reply.

    i did check the fuse.
    my brother uses the car, it turns out the (rheostat?)
    light intensity dial for dash lights was turned all the way down. (problem now solved).

    another question - that part of the instrumentation light on the rightmost side (the fuel gauge) is totally dark.
    might be a light bulb.
    has anyone had any experience replacing that light bulb?

  • I have a 2005 Corolla with 28K miles and an automatic transmission. I was looking through the maintainence book the other day to see when I should change the fluid and filter and found nothing. Is there a recommended mileage for which to change the transmission fluid? Or is this thing good for life?
  • nightattacknightattack Posts: 16
    There is no real recommendation (in the maintenence book) when to change the fluid. My 2005 auto Corolla also has 28K miles. I trying to find out if the transmission fluid needs to changed or flushed. Any Ideas out there?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    For older Corollas, I think the maintenance section of the owner's manual says to drain and fill the automatic transmission every 30k miles.

    Even though Toyota makes bullet-proof automatics (just like the rest of the car), automatics are still the weakest link of a car, and they cost a fortune to fix if they fail. (This one of the many reasons I drive a manual tranny!) With this in mind, I would still drain and fill the tranny to be on the safe side - at a dealer, it is about $45 to do this.

    If you get this done somewhere else, make sure to use ONLY the correct Toyota fluid!!!

    Also, I would not do a transmission flush - check around the net for horror stories!
  • tttoytttoy Posts: 3
    92 Corolla died while just driving it in a parking lot. If ignition switch was turned to START it would start and run, even rev, but after releasing it to ON it dies. Took to Toyota dealer, they couldn't get any diagnostics output. Said there was power into the ECU but nothing coming out. They doubted it was the ECU since they say they never go bad. After 3 days of troubleshooting and not finding any problems they decided to start swapping parts and replaced the ECU with a used one. They said that fixed it. After driving it away from the lot and about 5min from home it died again doing the same thing. I assume ECU has died again. What could be causing this?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    ignition switch... was that checked? ;)
  • tttoytttoy Posts: 3
    Yes, sorry forgot to mention I replaced that before I took it to the dealer. Thx
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    why did you replace the ignition switch prior to bringing it to the dealer?

    you know odder things have happened, but it's possible to have an original go bad, and a replacement to be defective.
  • tttoytttoy Posts: 3
    All the info I could find from online and a mechanic friend of my father-in-law was pointing to the ignition switch. I thought I could save some money and fix it myself but decided to take it to a dealer when that failed. :(

    Yes, I'm thinking of getting another used one this weekend and see if the 3rd try really is a charm.
  • I changed ATF at 30,000 miles and it was gray and with a small amount of particles. I would strongly recommend doing it. It's very easy as there is no need to drop a pan. The only issue is cost: the toyota T-iV fluid is $5 a qt at dealership. It takes 3.5 qts.
    Corolla is designed as low maintenance car and can easly go 100,000 miles with no ATF changes. But, some of us want to keep the car longer.
  • khudflykhudfly Posts: 1
    I just purchased a used 2001 Corolla with 39k miles. It is a manual transmission. The last time I drove it (almost all highway) when I let off of the accelerator the valves (at least I think it is the valves) make a very loud clatter until engine RPM gets to idol.
    It will make the same noise while parked when the RPM's start dropping after revving the engine.
    It has plenty of oil and the oil light is not coming on.
    Could the oil pump be starting to go out or the screen is clogged with sludge, debris, etc...?
    Please help...last thing I want to do is pay for an engine tear down after purchasing the car...sadly with no warranty.

  • jnbrendajnbrenda Posts: 1
    Sometimes out of nowhere, when I turn on my 2003 Toyota Corolla, I hear a beeping noise, just like when you turn on your turning signal. Then the little blue light on the left side of the wheel starts blinking. The beeping won't go away all day. Then the next day it disappears. This has happened like once a week since I got it 3 weeks ago. I haven't installed an alarm yet. Someone told me that it's because it comes with a factory alarm..could this be it?
  • with the key off press and hold the trip reset button. turn the key to the on position (do not start engine) while still holding trip reset button. you will see dash marks count down(-----) to zero dashes. the light is now reset.

    hope this helps

  • baltychenbaltychen Posts: 50
    Hi, need help.

    My driver side and passenger side window will drop 1/2" to 1" by themselves when I start to crank down the windows. The dealer said it is normal.

    Anyone has the same problem?? Thanks.
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