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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair



  • mikie227mikie227 Posts: 1
    I have a 97 Corolla with factory cd/cass/radio and speakers. My kids have been playing loud music and now the passenger rear speaker is "buzzing" whenever any music is played. Could they have blown out this speaker or is something just loose?
  • lawalawa Posts: 1
    After driving my new 06 corolla for a week or so, I noticed the car pulls left. I took the car to the dealers' repair service twice. While they confirmed the pull and adjusted the alignment twice the vehicle still pulls left. Furthermore, they do not know what cause for the pull. Does anyone have any idea what the cause might be?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    Take it back to any Toyota dealer and tell them to fix it. Someone at the factory (or the transport company) must have made an error. The cause could be any number of things.
  • went155mphwent155mph Posts: 1
    I have a really annoying problem with my 92 Corolla. When I start the car up and press the brake pedal it won't always got into drive. If I pump the brake a few times the locking mechanism releases allowing the shifter to go into drive. There is no consistency to the problem. Some days it works just fine. Others I could be messing around for a couple of minutes. Does anybody know 1) what the problem is & 2) How do I fix it? :cry:
  • toguytoguy Posts: 20
    I have a friend who has the same problem with his 92 Civic. After trying few things, all the dealer could advise was for my friend to stick a key (or any object that would fit!) in the hole on the transmission tunnel that's usually used to release the transmission in emergencies (e.g. if you have to have your car towed and the transmission is locked in gear). Ever since then, my friend follows that procedure when his transmission jams and it has been working for him. He knows it's not really a "fix" for the problem, but he doesn't care much since his car is on its last legs anyway :)
  • no2jwno2jw Posts: 1
    Not in Ft Worth, Texas on a hot day.
  • Hi everyone, I've been looking around the web, and this website to see if anyone else has had the same problem I have:

    When Im driving, I hear this clicking sound that sounds as if it is coming from my front left wheel area. I've had the car since May 10th, and I started hearing it soon after that. The car was taken in a week later to get some sealant stuff put on it, and I asked them to listen for the noise, they said they didnt hear anything.

    The dealership I go to is about 30 miles from me, yes thats far, but we got an awesome deal there. Anyways, the noise sounds almost like there is a stick or something stuck that is clicking against something whenever I drive.

    I drove back out to the dealership the other day to have them look at it, but after that drive, I didnt hear it anymore! I have no idea what it is, and one lady who worked there said to have them check it at the 5000 mile maintenence...which is a little far away, and I dont want something to be getting progressively worse, and then have to pay for it later.

    Does anyone have any suggestions on what this could be?
  • c2rosac2rosa Posts: 76
    Toyota to Recall 987,262 Vehicles to Fix Steering

    By Kae Inoue

    May 30, 2006

    Toyota Motor Corp., which recalled over 2 million vehicles last year, said it will recall 987,262 vehicles globally to fix defective steering shafts.

    The recall, which starts in Japan tomorrow, is for nine models produced between Sept. 16, 2002, and Nov. 22, 2005, including Corolla compact cars, Prius gasoline-electric hybrids and Wish and Isis minivans, the company said in a statement today. The world's second-largest carmaker will recall 565,756 vehicles in Japan and 421,506 units overseas.

    The recall comes after Toyota announced Japan's largest one-time recall in October 2005, spending 15.5 billion yen ($139 million) to fix headlamps on 1.27 million vehicles. President Katsuaki Watanabe said earlier this month the automaker is planning to create a new senior managing director position, responsible for maintaining vehicle quality.

    “Toyota has been paying attention to quality but with one defect in one of its auto parts, it affects a huge volume as it's selling more and more vehicles globally,'' said Koji Endo, an analyst at Credit Suisse in Tokyo.

    Earlier this month, the Toyota City-based carmaker recalled 217,767 Land Cruiser Prado sport-utility vehicles to fix faulty rear axle shafts. In April the carmaker recalled 11,109 Lexus-brand vehicles to fix seatbelts which jam, the second domestic recall since Toyota introduced the Lexus in Japan in August.

    Car assemblers tend to buy the same parts for different models from the same supplier to reduce costs, in a move that increases the chances of replicating defects.

    The defects have not been linked to any injuries, Japan's transport ministry said.

    Toyota shares were unchanged at 6,140 yen in Tokyo at the close of trading.
  • ilyasilyas Posts: 1
    i have corolla 2002 car. i hv problem in my engine i think. engine was ok when i start and while driving, but after having little drive, if i stop my car in the traffic
    , my engine going off and on, when it happen all lights and radio got off and on, few times my clock also got reset. i changed spark plug and fule filter, but i still have this problem, can any1 help me?
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,030
    Last week the check engine light came on in my '99 LE. I went to Autozone to have them plug into the harness and read the fault code. The codes that came up were both EVAP codes, one was for a purge flow fault, and the other was for a vent circuit malfuntion. The AZ guy said the most common cause for these errors was a faulty gas cap. I replaced the cap and he turned off the check engine light. Yesterday the light came back on which tells me the cap isn't causing the problem. I'm fairly certain the problem is being caused by a faulty tank bypass valve, located on the charcoal canister. After doing some research I found out that Toyota didn't start installing purge valves on the Corolla until 2001, and the tank bypass valve has a fairly high failure rate. Anyone else ever delt with this issue?
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,030
    Sounds like a problem with the ignition switch or a primary electrical system problem.
  • simonsayssimonsays Posts: 29
    Check and see if there are rocks stuck in your tires.
    Thats usually the case, it was for me.
  • danielj6danielj6 Posts: 285
    bottgers: Please read my message

    Over the last weekend in March the "check engine" light appeared on my '04 Corolla's instrument panel. I brought the car in this morning to a dealer. They hooked it to a computer and they called me to tell me that the charcoal canister with the VSV (Vacuum Switch Valve) part had to be replaced. The cost is $900 but since the car is under warrantee, they'll charge only for the diagnosis $85 and to clean fuel lines, injector and tank at a cost of $295. I just had them do the work under warranty and I refused to pay for diagnosis.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,238
    I don't understand why the customer should pay the diagnosis when it found the company's warrantied part was to blame. The fuel lines, injectors and tank need cleaning on an 04 car???!!! Sounds like they wanted to run an injector cleaner through and pack the bill. Go buy a bottle of Techron by Exxon at Meijers or Advance Auto and add it to a low tank when filling it with mid or premium.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,030
    Somebody's pulling your leg. If the car is under warranty, they can't charge you for anything, unless they can prove "YOU" somehow directly caused the malfunction. Since that isn't possible in your case, you owe them nothing. Also, the price for the canister sounds WWWAAAAAY high. I called Toyota to price a new canister for my '99 and they said it was $225. Was there a specific question you wanted me to address, or did you just want me to read your message?
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    in my mind, if you were getting a CEL because the system wasn't detecting a proper vacuum, and a part is at fault, there is no cleaning of any lines or injectors or whatever involved, just a limit switch or pressure switch or solenoid actuated valve).

    i can't see them charging you anything for this, because I think by law, the parts of the Emissions Control System, of which I believe this is a part are warrantied for a number of years beyond your basic warranty.
  • theflushtheflush Posts: 100
    I just bought a used '00 Corolla VE with 88K miles. The seller disclosed that they had been told by the dealer that regularly serviced the car that the air sensor was going bad and that it was safe to drive, but that at some point in time the car might quit running (that's all the seller could remember). The seller was told it would cost $450 to replace the sensor. The seller lowered the price to account for my taking the risk with this alleged problem. I am assuming that this is the mass air flow sensor. Is this something that the dealer can really tell is going bad or is it a sensor that either works or does not work? What else could it be? I thought I read somewhere that cleaning the electrical contacts can bring a MAF sensor back to life. Any thoughts?


  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    FWIW: If you go to, i think they sell a 2002 Toyota Corrolla replacement MAF sensor for $69 with a $65core charge (which you get back when you bring yours in so it can be refurbished and used again).

    I don't know how hard or easy it is to get at one of these, but imagine if you are mechanically inclined or know someone who is, you could replace it, or get it done for much much less than $450.

    I don't know if the car would quit running, more likely default to some mode of engine management that would leave you without good power, and good pickup. at that time, it would probably throw an OBD-II diagnostic code.
  • rdezarnrdezarn Posts: 1
    me and my girl were driving our corolla and it started smoking real bad and died. some guy said that a rod went through the block. what do i do ... how much would it cost to fix? :sick:
  • bean24bean24 Posts: 2
    i just bought this car two woks ago. this past weekend it developed a bigger problem than it had before. after you get it started it will run for about a mile then die. its hard to start after that. if you leave it sit for about twenty mins. it will start back up then die in about a mile. b-fore it started this problem it was hard to start only in the morn. then it would die after about 2 miles only once,then it would run fine the rest of the day. now it only runs for about a mile and dies every time. PLEASE HELP!!!!!! thank you
  • 95lsi95lsi Posts: 1
    I had the same problem with my 95 prizm (same as corolla). It was the ignition coil. Shop online for the part. Or if you can't wait go to the chevy dealer and ask for the ignition coil for the prizm. Same part but they will charge less than toyota.
  • Hi,

    I have a 2005 Corolla S. Up until a couple weeks ago the headlights worked fine. During the morning, they would automatically come on if it was still a bit dark out. They went out automatically when it got lighter out.

    Now, when I started the engine the headlights come on and stay on until I turn off the engine. It's almost like the light sensor doesn't realize it's light enough to turn off the headlights.

    Any ideas on what I can check? Dirt on the sensor?
  • bean24bean24 Posts: 2
    I don't have coil ignition, it is a distributor. Does that mean i need to buy a new distributor? Thanks.
  • c2cpc2cp Posts: 11
    My 01 corolla s has a rattle when the engine is idling high from first start up and when its in gear from the engine being under a load from backing up a hill. I checked exhaust plates and everything was ok. My father has a 02 corolla ce and its doing the same thing I also have a work buddy who has a 02 and his is doing the same.
    All three have over 60,000 miles. Has anyone else had this problem or know what it could be? I was at a local dealer the other day picking up parts so I decided to ask about it and they said they never heard anything about it before.
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    You have daytime running lamps that are always on, the sensor just increases the intensity of the headlights and turns on the rest of the lights. Your car is fine.
  • celenacelena Posts: 7
    I have a 2000 Corolla with about 114k miles. The check engine light has been on for about two years now. When it first came on, I noticed no difference in how it ran. Then as the weather got hot, it started to hesitate or skip, or cut off. And when it's really hot outside, I have to start it two or three times before it will go. But once it starts, it's fine. In the winter, I have no problems at all.

    It has been to the mechanic twice and they are basically screwing me around. The last time I took it it actually ran worse when I got it back. Now it doesn't accelerate properly at low speeds. Before I have to find somewhere else to take the car, I decided to try to get some kind of idea what is going on. The codes coming up on the check engine light are "bank one too lean" and "cylinder misfire." Now, please forgive my ignorance, but from what I've been reading this could possibly be caused by a dirty or bad MAF sensor. It also seems that this may have something to do with how it starts in hot weather. Am I right in this? Or do I need to keep looking? Also, if it is the MAF sensor, where is that so I can check it?
  • I have a corolla 2000 and have over 70000 miles. When I drive the car below 65mph, I don't have any problem. But as soon as I go beyond 65mph, the steering wheel shakes. Other than that, the car runs smoothly. Is it a serious problem? Thank you.
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Posts: 1,207
    You need to have your wheels balanced.
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    Hello, I have the same problem with my 98 Corolla, I balance the wheels, turn the brake rotos, check the brakes and calipers,the CV axle joints, and none of this has helped, my steering wheel vibrates left to right and feel floor board vibate too at high speed, what I found as the possible problem, is the axles shake up and down right where it sits in the transmission or transaxle,So the axle rotates in a out of round rotation causing the vibration at faster speeds, which this should mean the transaxle bushing or bearing is worn out big time, right where the axle slides into the trans. get under car and put your hand on the axle near the trans and shake it , its not suppose to move, I am still working on this problem, this is something that should not have happen, I notice that my older Camry has a extra support bearing at approx. half point on the axle shaft which helps support thr axle, and the 98 Corrola does not have the added support bearing on the longer axle side, this is why it looks like it may have wore out the trans bushing that holds the axle in place. I am still in the process of finding out what needs to be done to fix this loose motion in axle where it goes into the trans, both axles do this in my Corolla but the passenger side is worse,if this seems to be your problem too keep me posted , and email me , so we can discuss this issue ans what can be done, write to,
  • john500john500 Posts: 409
    The mass airflow sensor will always be right near the throttle body. Find your air filter, follow the plastic tubing to the engine block. The point at where they meet is the throttle body (a plate that controls air flow into the engine). The MAF will be in that area. It must be tested electronically. The symptoms you describe seem consistent with a defective MAF, however, I am not qualified or experienced enough with Toyotas to give you any assurances. The "too lean" statement implies an excess of air relative to fuel. If you already paid the mechanic twice, make him prove that it wasn't the MAF before going to a different one. The symptoms are in line with your self diagnosis and a mechanic should have definitely ruled this out.
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