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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair



  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    yes, a very confusing problem report... "when starting off". does that mean when starting from zero speed, or when starting the engine"?

    i liked mcdawgg's question for specificity myself. i was thinking if the vehicles had optional ABS, maybe it's the ABS doing a self check.

    but to be fair to the poster, "the solenoid" isn't a proper problem diagnosis from someone. what solenoid?

    ya know, maybe we can have a place somewhere on Edmunds or Carspace where people can upload and link to .WAV or other popular audio sample files.

    hey, maybe an audio problem sleuthing contest opportunity:

    1). For five points, identify the noise.
    2). For an additional five points, identify the vehicle. ;)
  • Thanks for the info dadf6. Your situation seems to parallel mine. I do here this noise in the base of the seat as well as the seat back or pehaps the movement in the back of the seat resonates causing the problem in the seat frame base?
    Is your Corolla a 2006 as well? I am hoping the problems was confined to a third party seat vendor to Toyota for only a certain period of time. If so, later frames may have the problem corrected. Did you also have the problem in the front passenger seat. We do not use that seat much but it feels loose when applying forward and backward pressure to the seat back? Thanks again ;) I am hoping I can find a couple more people who have this same defect. This will allow me to make a better case to the dealer to replace both front seats. Other than the seats, my Corolla seems like a great piece of automotive equipment. I have gone from a $330 (Ford F-150)per month gas expense on my 80 mile round trip daily to about $80 per month with the Corolla. But I sure miss my truck :cry:
  • Hi,

    I have a 96 corolla. One of my rear lights will go off. I've tried to change the bulb but when I play with it, the light will come on. It seems like there is something wrong with the wires. Any idea where I can get a schematic of the wiring to follow it to see if there are problems? Or is this a problem that is way to complicated for me and needs professional help?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,842
    If you mean the bulb goes on and off when you touch it (the bulb itself), then you have a bad ground or loose bulb in the socket. The bulb has to fit snugly to give a good ground. Any corrosion or dirt in there?

    You might try to clean it with a non-metallic pad like scotch-brite or some wet-dry sandpaper wrapped around a pencil end....then blow out the debris and try the bulb again. (remove the bulb first of course, but clean the bulb base as well).

    If the bulb goes on and off when you jiggle the wires behind it, that's almost for sure a bad plug-in, or connector.

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  • When I go to gas up my 1998 Corolla, the gas pump keeps clickin and acts if it is full. It sure takes a long time to fill my gas tank up. Any advice...
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    a crimp in the filler tube from the neck to the tank, or some issue with the vent solenoid / vent line / evap sub-system.

    there has to be a means for air to be displaced by the gas entering the tank obviously. if the filler tube is crimped, or the vent is not operating properly then that air cannot be displaced and the tank won't fill; the pump handle will shut off flow as if the tank were "full".

    your evap system is part of the emissions controls and may be covered for a longer period than other systems on your car. you might call around and see if it's under warranty. or look in your warranty booklet.
  • dadof6dadof6 Posts: 61
    My Corolla was an '05 produced in August '05. I drove mine for 55,000 miles and never had the problem in any other seat. The seat back & base are serviced as a 1 piece unit btw.
  • dadof6dadof6 Posts: 61
    After every tire rotation,tire replacement or tire repair the system needs to be reset. The procedure is in the owners manual.
  • Thanks Mr_Shiftright,

    I will try that. If that works it will save me a lot of money.
  • Hi again. I looked inside the socket for the bulbs and noticed that on the one that doesn't work well, one of the two raised copper parts that connects with the bulb seemed like it had melted the gray metal from the bulb onto it. It also looked flat instead of raised and was no longer copper colored. I scraped off some of the gray metal and it seems to work now. Do I need to replace it or does this indicate something worse? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,842
    Sounds like it may have overheated. Do you see any burned plastic or signs of overheating anywhere? If it were easy to replace the socket that the bulb fits into (I'm thinking it might just be a plastic piece with a couple wires coming out of it) that might be a good idea. Otherwise, just keep an eye on it and maybe get a new bulb in there.

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  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    yes, i'd put a new bulb in there. if the bulb had significantly off-design resistance, it could have been pulling too much current. more than likely though, the bulb was not making good contact with the socket to begin with. it's just a guess.

    however, when you have electrical contacts barely touching one another, not with the proper amount of surface contact and pressure, what tends to happen is you get resistive heating and tiny localized arcing, because resistance tends to be the reciprocal of cross-sectional area (i think if i remember correctly). anyway, i wager you probably saw some dark flakey debris around the contact points... probably oxidized metal, probably as a result of arcing. and when you start getting that, guess what? it tends to get worse and increase the resistance and you get further arcing at that location, until you get a good intermittent contact.

    mechanical vibration of a bulb that isn't properly seated in a socket can also result in intermittents. as a circuit is made and broken, you'll get... arcing, and same process described above, until connection breakdown.

    where else might you see this in action?

    for you homeowners who may dabble in wiring, well, in my experience, resistive heating is a problem when people wire lots of AC receptacles in their home on one long run, and when they use the metal "quick"-stabs on the back of the AC sockets rather than taking the time to use the screw terminals for holding the wires firmly in place and in contact with the connectors of the socket.

    situate a good load like a vaccum cleaner, iron, or a laser printer at the end of that long line, and that current draw really places a stress on those mechanical stab connectors. over-time, the circuit can become intermittent or it could fail to supply proper voltage to the product being used.

    so buy some new bulbs (i like replacing mine in pairs side-to-side so light intensity is equivalent on the right/left because bulbs are same manufacturer / same lot).

    verify they are operational after they are mechanically shown to you to be well inserted and held firmly in their sockets.
  • Thanks again for the advice. I really appreciate it. I didn't notice any burned plastic. All four of the bulb sockets for one light assembly seem to come together to one clip. I don't think I can just replace one without splicing the wires. If I need to I will probably be able to replace all the sockets. I'll keep an eye on the bulb to see how long it lasts this time. If it goes out soon, I'll replace the sockets.
  • I live in the northern VA area and I, too, just failed my emissions test the other day on my 1995 Corolla because my NOx was high. My check engine light has been on since the summer and I do have an EGR problem, but I wasn't sure if that was the case. The inspector had told me that it might be the cat converter, though I forgot to tell him if the EGR had anything to do with it, which I had ignored for a few months to get it looked at again. Should I just take it to the same inspection station and have them fix it and get it over with? How much would this usually cost without labor? I am not sure what to do, HELP! :sick:
    I only wanted this car til the end of the year and purchase a new one. Sometimes I think this inspection stuff is ridiculous.
  • hey,
    I have an 06 corrolla and accidentally hit something with the front. There's this plastic piece under my front light that broke off so its lowered and is off center...there's also a dent beside it. How much do you think it would cost to fix it?


    off-center light:

    other (normal) side:

    thanks so much!
  • I recently got 1999 Corolla with 65K miles on it.

    Its city milage is only 21 MPG.<

    Can someone guide me what maintenance is required to improve the City MPG

    Do i need to the 60K maintenance ?
  • boyd4boyd4 Posts: 1
    I own a 91 Corolla AllTrac with 170K on it. It has been a great car. I think the center locking differential is engaged full-time. My main clue is that the car lurches when making sharp turns on dry pavement. It&#146;s pretty clear all wheels are trying to turn at the same speed. The center differential dash light used to work but isn&#146;t working now (the light if off full time no mater the position of the center differential button).

    Looking for help on possible reasons for this problem and how to fix it. Frankly, I would be satisfied to just get the center differential free (unegaged) again as I rarely use this car in snow/ice.

    thx - boyd
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    i think you have the dent / other (normal) side images mixed up. looks like maybe a "dent wizard" place could restore the fender pretty easily.
  • What's the remote trunk release option for a Corolla? Does it mean being able to open the trunk remotely from a wireless keyfob?
  • grandtotalgrandtotal Posts: 1,207
    It means you can open the trunk from the driver's seat.
  • klmlbklmlb Posts: 1
    hi wolfgar112!

    thanks for your excellent post!!!

    i've had this same issue (i have an 03 CE) and i never knew what was causing it (as the battery, starter, alternator all checked out okay). within the last week, this has happened to me 3 times. i couldn't - for the life of me - figure out the problem.... until i saw your post!

    i went to and sure enough, the 3 times it happened, the low temperture for that night was under 15 F. The other nights when it didn't happen, the low was above.

    i dropped the car off at my dealership this afternoon and the guys there thought i was crazy because i said, "the lights were on and drained my battery, but the switch control inside the car was set to off."

    i'll let them know what you posted to expedite the repairs.

    i'm so glad you posted the part numbers as well. very much appreciated.

    YOU DA MAN!!!!

    Best Regards
  • the same exact thing is happening to me with my 2002 toyota corolla. i found out that along the trunk door are wires and the plastic that is encased around the wires have worn out and exposed the wires..the wires may have rubbed against something and the wiring is turn my reverse lights dont work...and now my car will not start...the light use to go off and on when i closed the trunk door....its used plastic to encase the wires and the wires are attached to the trunk when i open the trunk the wires rub against the trunk door...i can only imagine how much that will cost me to fix!!!!
  • its 18 degrees in white plains,n.y. and i did not drive my car in 2 weeks and now it will not start do you think the oil is frozen, i tried to give it a jump start boost and that will not start from the jump start either...what shall i do..should i change the battery...i cant drive my car will it will not move do you think i could change the battery all by it easy to do????...could it be a battery problem???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,842
    You mean it doesn't "crank" (the engine won't turn over--it just sits there) or that it cranks and cranks but won't actually run?

    If the starter motor won't spin the engine over at all, the battery is a good bet. Oil doesn't "freeze" but it can get thick enough to strain an old battery.

    If the engine turns over very slowly but doesn't start, the battery could be weak. It should start with a jump.

    If the engine cranks and cranks and the engine won't fire up, then it's not a battery problem but an ignition or fuel problem.

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  • dadof6dadof6 Posts: 61
    There is a viscious coupler in the transaxle assembly that prevents the lurching problem under normal conditions. The fluid in the couple wears out with time which causes the lurch problem. Although it sounds/feels nasty when it happens it can be driven this way for thousands & thousands of miles. The repair is not cost effective on a 16 yr old car with 170k miles on it. It is also important that all 4 tires are an EXACT match for brand,model & size as unmatched tires just make the lurch more noticeable.
  • thank you ..actually the engine cranks and cranks and the engine wont fire, so my problem is the ignition or fuel problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,842
    If you had an experienced person who knows where to squirt it (not on certain sensors in the intake system), some starting fluid would tell you if fuel's a problem--with a squirt of starting fluid, if it kicked right off, you'd know your engine wasn't getting fuel.

    Ignition problems or a lack of current to the injectors is more difficult to diagnose by yourself and requires a mechanic to check that out.

    If your problem is on again, off again, that makes it harder to figure out, certainly.

    Now....if the car will start with a boost....then it's possible that your battery is too weak to give the engine a good spin....a lazy battery won't turn the engine fast enough for a start in very severe cold.

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  • I have a 99 CE. Back seats fold down 3/4 of the way. You need to open the trunk and look in just below the rear deck. There you will see on both sides handles, pull left handle for that to come down, right side pull that handle. One also must clear[move to the side]the safety belts so seats will come down
  • Thank you i fixed it, i needed to change a fuse and i gave the car a boost, initially i was using a portable mini jumper booster and purchased a larger portable jumper.. i thought all jumpers were the same. i guess not.. the bigger the more power...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,842
    Also never use cheap-o jumper cables...they can't carry enough current to the dead battery and they will start to burn up if you keep trying.

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