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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Usually any vibration at a set and certain speed is tire related. Generally, axle vibrations will occur all through the speed range. As for harmonic vibrations coming from an engine, usually those are related to mounts, or to improper assembly after a clutch or transmission job.

    good luck with it,

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  • kenymkenym Posts: 405
    When you purchased the tires did you have them balanced? :shades:
  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    I have the same problem with my 98 corolla, I tryed everything, they keep telling me its the cheap brand tires I have, that the corolla body is so sensitive it will feel every thing once the tires get worn some, they said I have to get a good brand set of tires that roll perfectly, the vibation is not real bad so I just am waiting till these cheap tires wear out before I go to the cost to buy good tires, I jack my front car off the ground , started the motor put it in low gear and study the tires rotation, they do seem to have a slight woble in them, but up to 1/8 woble is suppose to be aceptable and check my rims same way, and one strange thing, No matter what rim I put on the front left side ,it seems to woble more, where the right side does not,with switching the same rim, can't figure that out cause the axle and bearings all seems good, if any body has any answers I would like to hear them. I also have the same problem with my 97 Honda Accord.
  • tcbin07tcbin07 Posts: 7
    Absolutely. And the place we got them from is a reputable tire business. So I'm going to be very surprised if this ends up being just a tire problem.
  • kenymkenym Posts: 405
    It really sounds like you have a rim that is out of round. It won't take much to cause that vibration. :shades:
  • jlawrence01jlawrence01 Posts: 1,828
    There are a certain number of tires (or batteries) in a lot that are not "quite right". The tires look good, are properly mounted and balanced but vibrate at a higher rate of speed.

    I had that happen on a rental Chevy Malibu a couple of years ago. Brand new. The car ran great up to 45 mph. Over that, there was heavy vibration in the front tire.
  • tcbin07tcbin07 Posts: 7
    I hear ya. But don't they usually do a high speed balance on these things when they install them? I guess it's possible that some belt separation or distortion of some kind has occurred, but I'll bet there's less than 5000 km on the new tires. I'm going to make some inquiries as to the tires we bought, and find out if anyone in the family remembers dusting a curb.
  • jlawrence01jlawrence01 Posts: 1,828
    You can have a defective belt in a tire from the factory that may not be evident until you drive on the tires for a short difference.
  • I drive a 2003 Toyota Corolla and it has started making a rattling noise when I start the car. What is upsetting about it is that it sounds like a rod, but I don't think that's what it is. When I accelerate, the noise goes away. I keep the oil changed methodically and it isn't time for it to be changed yet. I just want some ideas before I take it to a mechanic and they try to stick it to me by telling me a bunch of junk that needs to be fixed to jack up the price.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    What I do when I have an unknown noise like that, is to take off the serpentine belt and start the engine. That way you can determine whether it is one of the belt driven accessories, or internal to the engine.

    You could have a bearing going bad in an alternator, for instance. I'd suspect water pump, alternator, air conditioner compressor, or even the tensioner pulley.

    If you determine that the noise goes away, turn off the engine and spin the accessories by hand. Wiggle the pulleys of the accessories to see if you can determine which is bad.

    I've used this diagnostic approach on two of my vehicles in the last year. One was a water pump beginning to go bad. Another was a tensioner pulley.

    Good luck.
  • dadof6dadof6 Posts: 61
    Serpentine belt tensioner failing fits your symptoms. Expensive fix but you may choose to live with it as they seldom do anything more than get noisey. Have a Toyota Tech listen to it for confirmation.
  • Can anybody help explain to me how to change my alternator it dosen't look that hard to do. I am not sure on how to loosen my belt. I don't want to pay $500+ to have it done. When I think that I can do it my self. I would just like some advice on how it is done. Please. Thanks.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    This is a 2004 Corolla

  • raamdatraamdat Posts: 1
    A friend of mine her radiator+ radiatorfan was stolen 3 days ago, i helped her to find a new radiator with a new fan
    But the Fuse of that fan is probably broken in the fusebox however you will only find the big not to see if it been blow or not fuses named fan 1, fan 2, fan 3

    i have to know which one belongs to Radiatorfan and also which one belongs to the aircofan
    The car Is 1996 Toyota corolla

    Please advise.
  • 9mike9mike Posts: 2
    Intermittently all four doors will lock. I've changed remotes and it does the same thing. It initially started when I would turn off the ignition, get out of the car, and open the trunk. As I would open the trunk the doors would lock. Somtimes as I'm walking away from the car I'll hear it click and the doors lock. Other times, in the morning, I notice my doors have been locked and I didn't lock them. Any suggestions? Thanks
  • lyndapaglyndapag Posts: 1
    Did tightening the seat track bolts solve the problem? Did you have to use thread lock on the bolts to keep them tight? I recently purchased a 2003 Camry and then discovered the seat popping noise. I purchased it from a Honda dealer and am having a problem getting them to fix the problem. They thought it might be due to a worn track and were going to replace that until they found how much a new track costs. The problem seemed to get a lot better after they put the seat back in after removing it to try and diagnose the problem. What was feeling like a kick in the back of the seat nearly every time I stopped or accelerated is now a less intense pop happening only intermittently. I'm supposed to bring it back later this week for them to take another look at it. I'm wondering if I should suggest that they tighten the bolts and try to get them to agree that if the problem returns after they try that solution that they replace the track.
  • cherbinicherbini Posts: 1
    Hello All,

    I have a 1990 4 door sedan that is running like a top. Only 130k miles on it.

    Recently, the gas and temp gauges go all the way up, pegged, as soon as the ignition is turned to the run position.

    I think that they returned to normal for a very brief period, but have been pegged continuously since then. Makes it sound like a ground to me.

    I completely dismantled the instrument cluster, and didn't find anything out of the ordinary on the copper traces, etc...There is that yellow (capacitor?) that is connected to the circuit board as well that seems like it may temper the electrical signal coming from those sensors for the gauges.

    Anyone have this happen to them before? Anyone have any suggestions, or know where the ground is for the instrument cluster? All of the lights, and speedo still work just fine.


    John C.
  • pzegerspzegers Posts: 3
    Alrighty, look i have a 1989 Toyota corolla DLX 1.6 liter, carberated engine and a few questions have come up: 1.) it's been have electrical issues and the reverse lights no longer work and the break lights only work partialy (one side is brighter than the other) short? or can it be something else? 2.) i've been thinking of making some performance modifications to it like and adding more horse power vis turbo but i realized that i dodn't know whether it would be a turbo or some kind of supercharger, any answers? and if so would i have to fabricate my own some-how or does anyone know where to order one for cheap? 3.) anyone know where to get a body kit for the car?
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    1a.) No backup lights, check the reverse switch on the transmission.
    1b.) Brake light bulbs, check the rear light side that is dim, the bulb is probably bad and has a filament shorting out internally to the running lights circuit.

    Can't help on 2 or 3
  • sales2010sales2010 Posts: 33
    WOW!!! :) I can not get over how old your Corolla is! How many miles do you have on it? Sorry, but I can not answer any of your questions, but these people on these forums really helped me, so I bet someone will help you also. Sorry :(
  • Hi I have a 2002 toyota corolla and i went to an expressway lube place in NY and i was told by the tech who checked my car that my antifreeze is low. He told me that he could put some in for 4.00 dollars, i told him no that i would do it myself...My question now is how do i know if he was fibbing or telling the truth?? can i check my antifreeeze myself?? and if i do need some antifreeze which brand do i buy for my 2002 toyota corolla???
  • Hi I have a 2002 toyota corolla and i went to an expressway lube place in NY and i was told by the tech who checked my car that my antifreeze is low. He told me that he could put some in for 4.00 dollars, i told him no that i would do it myself...My question now is how do i know if he was fibbing or telling the truth?? can i check my antifreeze myself?? and if i do need some antifreeze which brand do i buy for my 2002 toyota corolla???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    If this is the original antifreeze that came with the car, you should have it drained and refilled completely.

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  • jlawrence01jlawrence01 Posts: 1,828
    Agree with Shiftright.

    You are really complaining about spending $4.00 to add antifreeze. Ever hear the phrase "pennywise, pound foolish."
  • kerrysuzkerrysuz Posts: 5
    For the past couple of days, my Corolla has begun to sound more like a deisel engine. The car has 114,000 miles on it, and it's been a GREAT car. But I can't figure out what this sound is. Before it started, I both got an oil change (at a local Valvoline) and filled the gas tank. It's sounds quite loud when I'm driving fast, but you can hear it well at 25mph. When I am completely stopped, the engine purrs like a kitten. But the minute I hit the gas, and the minute the wheels are moving again, I hear the deisel sound again. It's definitely coming from under the hood. And when I'm changing gears and only have the clutch in but am not giving it gas, I continue to hear a clicking. I'm supposed to drive to Maine tomorrow (I'm in Boston) to see my mom, and now I'm kind of afraid to go. Does this sound like ANYTHING easy to fix or safe to drive with???
  • yes this is the original antifreeze that came with the car. I also found the reservoir tank and it looks as if there isnt any antifreeze inside but i took the cap off the radiator when the car was cool and upon taking it off red antifreeze spilled on my fingers and on the tube that leads to the reservoir. does this mean that there is enough antifreeze in the radiator but not enough in the reservoir tank..also should i buy toyota's long life coolant. and i will take your advice and flush it..thank you
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Yes flush it out and fill it to the "cold" mark in the reservoir, then check it after it has warmed up. I think any high quality coolant is fine.

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  • No, i dont trust everything mechanics say...and i was told to use only Toyotas Long Life Coolant, which by the way is expensive, it sells for 21.00 dollars...i wanted to purchase my own so that i can use the antifreeze for the future and not always depend on the expressway lube guys..i also wanted to be an educated consumer..mechanics tell female drivers anything and we fall for it thinking its truth..i was told by a mechanic in the heart of winter that i needed to change my battery and i did not need worked fine..i also was told by mavis that i needed brakes and i did not when i took my car to another mechanic because i didnt trust mavis....women get jerk constantly by mechanics.
  • jlawrence01jlawrence01 Posts: 1,828
    Wow! The mechanic is jerking you around for ... $4. Be serious. He sounds like he is a straight up guy.

    Just make sure that YOU know what you are doing because if you screw up something is your efforts to save $4, you may be spending THOUSANDS replacing an engine.
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