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Toyota Corolla Maintenance and Repair



  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    Yes I have tryed replacing the PVC valve and it was no help of this oil disapearing problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Okay, then it's time to get a cylinder leakdown test. That will pinpoint the issue I think if the damage is internal.

    You can also put a dye in the oil, then lift the car and shoot a black light on it, and if there's a hidden leak it will show up with the light.

    How much oil are you losing, say per 1000 miles?

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  • You are right. I think most of cars are the same: my Lexus(05) & my sister's CIVIC (03) do the same thing, at least.
  • 1999 corolla - always starts when its warm out. now, with recent cold weather it won't start!
    new battery installed, when you turn the ignition the engine seems to be just short of turning over. One time the engine stalled while driving at slow speed.

    when the outside air warms up later in the morning - it turns over.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    back to basics....pull the spark plugs, examine them, do a compression test.

    Cold start issues are usually ignition related or compression related....not always, but it's a good and easy place to start.

    If plugs are good and compression is good, then I'd check the cold start circuit, to see if the fuel mixture is being enrichened enough for cold weather starting. This may related to temperature sensors.

    You might try a judicious squirt of starting ether in the air cleaner. If the engine kicks right off, then it could very well be an enrichment problem.

    Don't overdo it. Couple squirts is Plenty.

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  • cnjaacnjaa Posts: 1
    Seems like we have the same problem as some of you. We bought this car and one week later the oil light came on. We had the oil changed and one week later it came on again. Had it re-filled...smae thing. It never leaves a puddle and the exhaust isn't dark. We have had 3 different mechanics look at it now. The first two "fixed" something but the problem remains. This last one ran an oil test and told us that it basically needs a whole new engine for :confuse: $2,000. So the question is; do we fix it? Or are we likely to just have more problems?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Just keep adding oil. You aren't getting a "new" engine for $2,000, I can tell you that. Maybe a used one or an engine that gets freshened up a bit.

    Hard call, here, because a '95 Corolla, all clean and pretty, is only worth maybe $3,000--$3500 right now.

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  • alex24alex24 Posts: 54
    Yes I have the same problem with my 98 corolla 4 cyl. I change the PVC valve, and it did not help, Summit racing tech. told me to try changing brands of oil, because some brands just evaperate or get burned into the piston without making the dark exhaust color, so I switch from castrol 10w/30 to penzoil 10w/30 and it sure did help some before I was losing a Quart every 400 miles and now I only lose a half a Quart every 2000 miles, amazed it just does not make logic, but I think you should just use your engine till it goes, then get a engine at the junk yard for approx $500. they are very easy to install yourself, I put one in before, comes out easy from the top.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    that observation sure does defy explaination. if the weight of the oil were different, it would make more sense. otherwise, if it's possible, i'd like to think a stuck piston ring or clogged passage somewhere just became liberated.
  • My son has a 1994 Corolla and sometimes the overdrive light starts flashing and it feels as though it's running in first gear when this happens. It does pass eventually but it happens nearly everytime he drives it. Our transmission shop has been unable to pull up any codes on it. Any ideas? The car has 119,000 miles on it. He just purchased it used.
  • 10sfan10sfan Posts: 136
    Who says the Junk Yard $500 engine with 50, 000 - 100,000 miles (if you find one) will be any better than the "burner you now have. Plus the labor cost (sweat equity) and fluids etc all add up. Remember these engines have a habit of burning oil. Think rebuilt.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    Sounds like a bad sensor in the transmission, maybe speed sensor sending wrong signal to the ECU? I think you need to go to a more competent shop, but not one of those chain transmission shops.

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  • Thank you. We just remembered we know someone in the service dept. at our local Toyota dealer (the son of a friend). We're going to take it in and see if they can figure it out.
  • i have to replace a blower fan for my heat to work. is it a difficult job and how long will it take.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    I think if you want to tackle this job yourself you should subscribe on a one-repair only basis to this site:

    It's also possible that your local public library will have a repair manual, maybe on CD, that will give you step by step.

    Most fan motors take a while to dig out, but it isn't technical. All nuts and bolts stuff and knowing the sequence of disassembly and how to unclip various things.

    You could also ask your Toyota dealer what the labor is, in hours, to do this, and then double those hours for yourself doing it.

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  • A year ago, I purchased a 2006 Toyota Corolla Sport that had about 17,000 miles on it. The car now has about 34,000 miles on it and has had regular maintenance. Last Friday as I was driving home, my car suddenly decelerated and the check engine light, battery light and the oil pressure lights all came on and I had to coast over to the edge of the road. I could not immediately restart the engine but after a few minutes it started and I drove about 1/2 mile and it stopped again with the dash lights coming back on.(When the car was running, all lights except the check engine light disappeared.) I stopped and started like this 6 more times before I finally just had to have it towed to my home. I had 3/4 of a tank of gas that was purchased the night before from the station I always buy gas from. I have added a product to remove water from the gas line just in case that was the problem but the car still stalls and the dash lights still come on. I want to note that prior to this problem starting Friday, the car never acted sluggish, or displayed any problems. Does anyone have any idea as to what the problem is?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    I would guess fuel pump or fuel pump relay. The dash lights normally come on when a car stalls, that doesn't mean anything. You should have the codes read with a scanner and see what that says.

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  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,679
    If you have less than 36k miles and 3 years, it is under warranty. It also has a 5 year, 60k mile powertrain warranty.
  • Has anyone had to replace the computer in their car. The check engine light came on and the car was sluggish one minute and racing the next. Local dealer said the computer was bad and relaced it while under warranty. The car has about 17000 miles.
  • im having the same problem on 12/21/7 and have it narrowed dow to the door control under the driver seat i think. Has anyone else resolved this annoying problem of the doors continually trying to open even when they are already open. this car will sit in the garage and click open w/o the igntion even on. I have di-electric all contacts in doors etc. with no evail.
  • im having the same problem on 12/21/7 and have it narrowed dow to the door control under the driver seat i think. Has anyone else resolved this annoying problem of the doors continually trying to open even when they are already open. this car will sit in the garage and click open w/o the igntion even on. I have di-electric all contacts in doors etc. with no evail.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    do you have remote/keyless auto unlock? if so, it's possible a FOB nearby (in a drawer with someone pressing on it, or in a pocket, or just a FOB that has a button that is worn out) is causing the system to try to open the vehicle.

    another thing that comes to mind is a door lock with a bad (i.e. shorted) contact that is tricking the module into thinking you are requesting door unlock with the key.

    or there is a bad unlock button in one of the doors.

    or the module is bad.
  • 2002 corolla door locks continually trying to open. I have di-electric the plugs in the two front door. taken the battery out of the FOB. unplugged all the plugs in the door control module and it still tries to open. this can can be in the garage and off and it still clicks. anyone have this problem on any toyota and how did you resolve this? thanks.
  • user777user777 Posts: 3,341
    do you have more than one fob? it wouldn't be the first time...

    look, if you've pulled all the plugs in the door control module (is that the thing that receives the signal from the FOB?), perhaps its possible the solenoid for one of the doors is constantly receiving the command to unlock, either through a broken door switch (and I mean this could be the keyswitch in the door), or the lock/unlock button on he door or some short downstream of the control module, but upstream of the solenoid itself.

    you need to determine if its the remote system or one of the switches.

    i don't think you've ruled either out at this point to narrow down your search for a root cause.

    good luck.
  • im having the same problem has anyone solved this dook lock opening diabacle!
  • ive unplugged the entire module and it still clicks. ive went over all the plugs in both front doors. its got to be one on the lock unlock sensors in the driver or the passenger door as there isnt any in the rear doors that i know of. continuing on sammee
  • I have a 2003 Toyota Corolla, and now only 1 of the locks works with the keyless entry or using the power locks. It's a little frustrating and haven't been able to figure out the problem. Fuses seem to be fine.
  • Anyone had this problem?
    I have a 95 Corolla with 69,000+ miles on it and for 2 days, it died once each day but would start right back up. Now it starts but when given the gas its dies. No one seems to know or has ever had this problem before.
    Anyone out there had this?


    jkowboy in Dallas
  • I recently had my Check Engine Light (CEL) activate and was told that it may be due to the Gas Cap being incorrectly closed. I unscrewed and re-screwed the cap on until I heard a "click" and the CEL light turned off. This is a common occurrence, so try this trick before you have to pay for a $90 diagnosis...
  • merg1merg1 Posts: 4
    My '96 Corolla has 118,000 miles and loses a quart of oil in 3,000 miles, no external leaks. Owners manual calls for energy conserving 5/30 oil. I'm considering using a high mileage 5/30 oil from Castrol or Valvoline. Neither is energy conserving. Will it hurt the engine to use them?
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