wd40?

debhlv

It's blamed cold outside, my old olds won't start. She's got almost full tank of ethanol gas, and since cleaning my carb last fall have not had this problem. Am out of starter fluid, been too confident of my beast to bother getting any. I do, however, never run out of wd40. Will it work for starter fluid spray, or will I end up needing a fire exstinguisher?

Mr_Shiftright

WD-40 probably doesn't burn all that well, and certainly not as good as gasoline (which isn't doing the trick for you anyway). Starting fluid is ETHER, which is highly combustible, downright dangerous, so you really can't compare to even gasoline, much less WD40. I wouldn't put WD40 in a carburetor, it's really more solvent than fuel.

You should be careful with starting fluid, don't use too much, as it is also a very effective solvent and will wash your cylinder walls of all oil coating.

Have you thought about bringing your battery indoors in very cold weather?

debhlv

That's a good idea, sir. I'm also thinking of using some of my salvaged wood and building myself a garage. But, until then, I'll simply follow your suggestion. I've been well practicing my more colorful language today, but my beast knows she's bigger than me and won't listen. Thanks!

opera_house_wk

The oil in it may not start the car but the propellant which is propane will. Got a propane torch? That will work in a pinch. I have good rule. If it is supposed to move and it doesn't, use WD40. If it moves and it isn't supposed to, use duct tape.

mullins87

I've used WD40 before to start small engines. Works great, just be quick so the propellant does go away. Also, the oil that is left behind can't be bad for the engine. Also, in a real pinch, I've used brake parts cleaner very sparingly. Just like the ether, it will wash the oil right off the cylinder walls.

swschrad

I've only used WD40 to blast water out of distributor caps (which probably makes a nasty carbon mess under our modern high-voltage systems).

gas coming down past the piston rings if you flood the engine out will also wash the oil right off, which is why tow-ins around here often find an oil change on the bottom of their rescue bill, and nobody ever seems to be successfully sued despite all the crabbing about the practice.

brorjace

Gee, genuine starting fluid is cheap ... and a little goes a long way.

As for general lubrication use, I've found the solvent-heavy WD-40 to be lacking. Things just don't stay lubricated and the stuff offers almost no corrosion protection.

I use Valvoline Synpower in a spray can and I often use ATF (in small, empty eye-drop bottles) to lubricate things I don't want to spray.

--- Bror Jace

Kirstie_H

Does Valvoline Synpower work for non-auto uses too? I've got a seriously sticky lock, hard to turn with the key, and WD40 works only for about a week.

kirstie_h
Roving Host
Edmunds.com

Mr_Shiftright

WD-40 isn't a lubricant. Try and find the word "lubricant" on the can!

Kirstie, shame on you:) No wd-40 in locks, please! It messes them up. Use only graphite lock lubricant.

swschrad

there is a lot of plastic in locks these days, and silicone rots it. I would flush that lock with one or two of the winter anti-freeze cans (isopropyl alcohol with a little light mineral oil), wipe off the slime from the door, and next time it sticks, spray in graphite powder.. a couple light puffs, not an upside-down "phoot" of a half-ounce of graphite. work the key around in it a few times afterwards, and wipe the key down well to get the graphite off.

if the lock doesn't settle down within a few days, consider it is misaligned in the door... or the insides are misshapen now, and time for another one.

brorjace

Kirstie, as the others point out, once you start gooping your locks, you'll have to keep gooping them and all that oil will attract dust and dirt really making a mess in the long run.

But, to answer your question, I use it everywhere I can to prevent metal-to-metal contact.

Nigel ShiftRight, I'll have to check a can of WD-40 and see what it says.

--- Bror Jace

fwatson

Quote: "WD-40 isn't a lubricant. Try and find the word "lubricant" on the can!"

OK, is this a trick challenge?

Quote from WD40 can: "Lubricates" (refers to being a "Lubricant") Moving parts, such as Hinges, Wheels, Rollers, Chains, Gears.

Do I get an A?

Frank

Mr_Shiftright

Damn! It NEVER used to be on there.

Now I have to go look--lol!

Are there two kinds of WD-40? I distinctly remember losing a bar bet over this!!!

brorjace

So, Nigel Shiftright, is it safe to say you owe ME a free drink now?

I'm not picky about drinks the way I am with oil for my silly little car. Any house chardonnay will do. >;^)

--- Bror Jace

Mr_Shiftright

Bror---I SWEAR to you that I have a can of WD-40 right in front of me and nowhere does it say "lubricant" on the can. So what's with that?

They must make two products, one a lubricant and one not?

All mine says is:

Stops Squeaks
Cleans and Protects
Loosens Rusted Parts
Frees Sticky Mechanisms
Drives Out Moisture

It also says it's flammable and that you shouldn't swallow it. Glad I read that, or I would have had it for lunch.

But nothing NADA about the word "lubricant".

fwatson

I don't think there are. On the back of the can I have, Just below the UPC symbol, It gives "Item No. 10023".

The wording you give is very similar, though not exactly as on the front of my can. The "LUBRICATES" section is on the back of the can along with other uses entitled Directions, Cleans, Protects, Penetrates, and Displaces Moisture. I have used WD40 for at least 45 years. primarily as a lubricant of many uses. It seems strange they would not include that use on some cans.

zr2rando

But I always have used it as a lube anyway,,,,it is only good as a short term quickie lube, the oils are very light and they evaporate before long..
I have a 15oz can, bought at SAMS within the last 2 years probably (item number 42162) that also does NOT mention "LUBRICATE" anywhere on the can.
It does clean good though and it uses propane as the propellant...never tried it as engine starter.
Maybe they have changed the formula? Maybe they didn't actually want to advertise it as a lube?
I've always known not to use it on guns and expect it to last very long, it cleans them up good, but then you need to use something else before putting them up...I probably would not spray too much in an intake/engine that is not firing....probably wash the cylinders almost like liquid gas would.
Good luck , you can get ether at Agri-supply last I looked.

Kirstie_H

Well, dang! In following these responses, I've spent the weekend shaking the can, getting it poised for action, putting it away, getting it out, shaking the can...

But if there's a product specifically meant for lock lubricating, guess I'm better off getting that than remaining in a quandry. (ps - my can says "lubricates")

kirstie_h
Roving Host
Edmunds.com

bburton1

The 40 supposedly stands for the 40th formulation the guy tried. Have an ancient can of it front of me and no where does it say lubrication. Used to live in Mpls MN and used a ton of it on locks to drive out the water. Also shot in graphite. Never had any trouble with the locks.

WD40 used to make a product called TAL5 which does have lubricant on the can. It is one of those multi synthetic spray products which works great on printers. Unfortunately they stopped making the product. Was priced at a fraction of the other synthetic lubricant sprays on the market.

Thanks to whomever suggested using ATF as a lube. FYI I also use Mobile one as a lube for small electric motors-no problems yet.

fwatson

This should answer all our questions. Especially the Lubricates or not discussion. And "The propellant used in WD-40 is carbon dioxide (CO2). CO2 is an inert gas which helps empty the can." Not Propane.

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

http://www.wd40.com/Brands/wd40_faqs.html

What does WD-40 do?

WD-40 fulfills five basic functions:

CLEANS: WD-40 gets under dirt, grime and grease to clean. It also dissolves adhesives, allowing easy removal of labels, tape and excess bonding material.

DISPLACES MOISTURE: Because WD-40 displaces moisture, it quickly dries out electrical systems to eliminate moisture-induced short circuits.

PENETRATES: WD-40 loosens rust-to-metal bonds and frees stuck, frozen or rusted metal parts.

LUBRICATES: WD-40's lubricating ingredients are widely dispersed and tenaciously held to all moving parts.

PROTECTS: WD-40 protects metal surfaces with corrosion-resistant ingredients to shield against moisture and other corrosive elements."

jcave1

And also works well on your fishing bait. Baiten em, not lubricating.

Mr_Shiftright

Maybe I have an old can then?

zr2rando

The can I am LOOKING at does not mention "LUBRICATE" or "CO2" anywhere on it and DOES mention that it "CONTAINS" propane..Over the years I have learned NOT to use it as a persistent lubricant, only as a bolt loosener and a label remover which it DOES very well.

swschrad

new label, new propellant. group wisdom wins out again, the power of the many is greater than the power of the brain, or something like that.

actually nothing like that.

I still can't use it to keep food from sticking to the pan :-D

brorjace

Well, I still don't like the stuff much. If I want a penetrant, I'll use Liquid Wrench.

If I want a lubricant to keep metal things moving and slow corrosion, I'll use Synpower, ATF, etc ...

--- Bror Jace

fwatson

Variety makes the world go 'round. I have found dozens of uses for WD-40 in the past 45 years. It is a very good lubricant for many purposes not needing heavy oil, as well as cleaning etc. I agree on Liquid Wrench, but prefer Blaster for rust busting/penetrating. All in all I disagree, and am a big WD-40 fan.

Mr_Shiftright

I don't like it as a lubricant, it is too light and doesn't last very long. Tri-Flow is nice.

WD is good for an initial blast into some dirty hinge, good for squeaks, things like that. It does many things competently, but doesn't really excel at anything. For specialized tasks, I use a specialized product is what I'm saying.

kinley

were thankful they had used "3 In 1 Oil" instead of WD 40.

swschrad

yah, sure, by golly, you betcha then, Sven