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Dodge Ram Care and Maintenance



  • The gas is not a factor for me. the bad thing is, when i finally talked to the guy, he sold the truck a few hours before i called. damn.
  • guy7guy7 Posts: 9
    I recencently purchased an 06 CTD. I am not driving it very often as the old CTD is still doing duty. It maysit for a couple of weeks at a time. Is there anything that I should do to make sure fluids don't go bad,especially fuel. Also are the rest of the CTD owners out there that live in cold climates adding fuel conditioner. Does this affect warranty status? My older truck is used much more often and I don't worry as much about fluids going bad.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Only thing I ever add to my fuel is anti-gel when it's very cold. Otherwise, just use a reputable fuel source (preferably a truck stop with high usage and turnover) to make sure your fuel is clean.

    The rest of the fluids should be fine after a week or two.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • loncrayloncray Posts: 301
    I agree with KC about the anti-gel and fueling at a high-turnover station, and you might want to drain the water trap every now and again too.
  • I have the Haynes manual for my '96 diesel. Reading the manual in preparation for changing the tranny oil and filter, I see the specs for the band adjustment is in inch-pounds; I've never heard of that before. There is a metric conversion or comparison, but I am totally lost at making any conversion and have absolutely no idea of how inch-pounds would relate to Ft-pounds. I have a torq wrench that goes from 20# on up. Where would I look to find out what 72 in-pounds would be? Or is there a smaller scale torq wrench I should be investing in? Thanks, Michael
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    As long as I've been working on motor vehicles or in the business, transmission bands and other fasteners have specified their tightening in inch-pounds.

    You will need a torque wrench calibrated in inch pounds.

  • manlawn04manlawn04 Posts: 4
    I have a 96 cummins and I don't think any syn. oil has ever been used, will putting it in at this stage harm engine??? 243000 miles on the truck. Email at with reply so I can get the results faster.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Shouldn't be a problem. If you're concerned, start with a synthetic blend and wean the engine to full syn over a few oil changes. Be sure to keep an eye on all the seals.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • Sorry to be gone so long. I did fix the problem with my Dodge Ram Van. When I removed the ring gear assembly and finally the pinion gear, I could see the damaged bearing races. Exactly half the inside circumference of the bearing races looked like they were not hardened properly and were very rough.
    I have since sold that van and now own a '06 MegaCab 2500 4X4 with the Cummins Turbo Diesel. Gawd, I love this truck.

  • We just bought a fully loaded 1999 Ram Quad Cab 4X4 with the 5.9 V8 and was owned by a state trooper. It's immaculate, never been off-roaded, just an excellent truck. However, I have been keeping an eye on the oil and I've noticed that it seems to be using some oil after only driving it about 500 miles. It runs great, doesn't smoke, doesn't have a leak (that I can find), and barring the occasion romping, hasn't been driven hard. My question is, is this just be normal oil consumption or is there something else I need to know about these motors?
  • you've just been smoked by a smokey
  • Son (16 years old) has a 97 dodge ram pickup 1500 and wanted to make his truck sound louder so he cut the tailpipe off right above the muffler. When we saw the tailpipe in the driveway we were concerned about this so we wantd to get it put back on, we were told that he could get the catalytic converter cut off and put a straight pipe system on and put back the existing muffler/pipe. We do not have an emission law in the state of Alabama, can this be done without welding and just using clamps, he is now trying to save money after his mistake of cutting off the pipe. He has power lost due to a clogged up catalytic converter. Please help!!!!
  • Does anyone know, is it possible to change the clutch bearing in the a/c compressor and not put in a new compressor. You can get the bearing from most auto parts stores, but yet most repair shops say that they can only change the entire compressor. Let's see a part for $40-60 bucks or a compressor for $400 plus labor brings the total to $1000. Why would you be able to get a part if no one wants to put it in? :confuse:
  • I have a 1998 Ram 1500 that I changed the exhaust on. I removed the cat and put 24" glasspacks on it with 3 1/2" tips. I also changed it to a true dual exhaust system. Some may think it's too loud, but the only time you really hear it is if you start rodding on it. Your best bet would be to weld the pieces together because depending on how and where he drives it, the clamps may not hold properly. Hope this helps
    Redneck girl from ND :)
  • I have a 96' Dodge ram 1500 extended cab 5.9 with automatic transmission. Put it in 4 wheel high today, truck was hopping horribly, so I stopped. Truck proceeded to make a few big clunks. I disengaged the 4 wheel drive and I made it onto somewhat clear pavement and it drove fine. However, when I put it into 4 wheel drive high or low, the 4 wheel drive light comes on, but the front tires to do move, the. The truck just sits there and clunks something bad. What am I looking at hear? Possible 4 wheel drive linkage? Somewhat mechanically inclined, and would love to fix this problem within the next few days because more snow is on the way (I live in Wisconsin). Please, somebody help.
  • I have a 2007 2500 with the 6.7 deisel. My owners manual says to change the oil at 7,500 or 15,000 depending on driving conditions. I plan to change it every 5,000 - 7,500 miles but my oil change light on the upper console goes off well before that. Is this light just based on milage or is there some type of sensor that determines the need to be changed? I've only had the truck for 6 months and have 10,000 miles and the light went off around 4,000 the first time and long before I reached 10,000 the second. Any suggestions? you can email me directly at
  • Question: I just bought an '07 Dodge with 5.9L Cummins. It only has @3500 miles right now, but do I need to be using a fuel additive due to the low sulfur fuel?

    Also, my truck is a dually. I have a problem with rock chips on the dually fenders. Do the front mud flaps work good to prevent this or should I install full length running boards? Any suggestions?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    1 - No... my '05 3500 runs just fine on ULSD, same engine.

    2 - I have front rubber mud flaps, but they don't do a whole lot. I had full length boards on my 1996 3500 dually, and while they helped a little, a rock will find the truck no matter what you do.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • Hello, my maintenance book says that i should replace my spark plugs at 30,000 miles. Does that seem like low miles to replace plugs on todays vehicles
  • Is it critical to change axle fluid every 15,000 miles as it says in the maintenance schedule? at $147.00 a pop it gets expensive. Is this a job for a novice to tackle?
  • I waited until there was 6000 miles before changing over to Mobil 1. Using the OWNERS MANUAL as a guide and change every 6000 miles along with tire rotation. Other than Nitrogen filled tires, and a Tonneau cover, I haven't made any other alterations and get over 15 mph in city and 21.9 mpg on interstate while maintaining 65 mph when I can which is most of the time since most of my highway driving is from Sanford, Fl to Ringgold, Ga
  • Here, again, check the OWNERS MANUAL! I have worked at a dealership that uses their own menu, and while it seems to make sense, it is EXTREMELY costly, and (I think) unnecessary)
  • Please provide the step-by-step for changing the plugs on the 06 Hemi. I found them for the 05 (had great pic's too) but the 06 is different. I'm working on the 30k tune up.

    Thank you,

  • stanoskistanoski Posts: 76
    Why replace them at 30k in the first place? Isn't that a bit premature? Most cars/trucks can go 100k before needing them replaced. I just bought an 07 Ram 5.7 hemi and only have about 5k on it now so no new plugs for me for a while. From past experience, you will most probably break or screw something up in the process of changing them so I personallly hold off as long as long as its still running well. My last 3 vehicles went well over 100K without plug changes and never had a problem as long as the rest of the vehicle is properly maintained. p.s. Not being a smart-alec, just my personal experience. Maybe Ive been lucky, not sure??
    Ski in TX
  • No problem Tx. The Schedule B calls for the 16 plugs to be replaced at 30K. It runs great but I just want to keep to the schedule. I'm still looking for help or a link to help?

    Thanks, Luke
  • Luke, Where did you find the plug change for the 2005, I need them, they sound good. Thanks, Nack..
  • loncrayloncray Posts: 301
    Thanks, Tondeb - I must say, that's the biggest gap between question and answer I've ever seen on any internet forum, anyplace!
  • rxpx40rxpx40 Posts: 10
    Great day in the morning! $147 to change the axle fluid? I replaced the front *and* rear differential fluid on my '06 MegaCab 2500 4x4 with Amsoil 75W-90 and the total wasn't $147! Yes, you can do this yourself. I took the diff covers off and wirebrushed it since the factory paint cooked off within 3000 miles. I painted the cover with high temp engine paint. Hauling my 7500lb trailer has not even faded the paint. Oh yes- the best part: When I changed to Amsoil, my mileage increased from 21-23 mpg.

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