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Chevy S10 Owner Reviews



  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Could you install a trans cooler? Dont know if it would help but it would be worth a try.

  • expert1expert1 Posts: 133
    Like I said in my previous post, I picked up a Space Blue 2000 S-10 LS, with sliding rear window, chrome bumpers, body side mouldings, CD, Air, 4 cly, 5 speed, mats, etc. for $10,000. It was used, but had only 1300 miles on it. The private party even paid the registration and half the taxes on it also. Looking in the paper the same car closed out in the low 12s to high 11s. Its retail price was 15,777, but Chevy also gave a rebate on that price reducing the MSRP to the high 13s.
  • the 2000 s-10 i bought had a 2.2L L4, 5 speed, ext. cab, ls pckg, full size spare, bed liner, 8 miles on the odo, and an engine with a defective head (see post above). all this was had for $13,500 before financing. btw, the dealership refused to take the truck back until the owner of the dealership heard about it. he told them to take it back. i'm now waiting the 8-10 weeks for my new 4.3L v-6 w/5 speed LS ext. cab to be delivered. whatever you do, stay away from the 4 cyl. i've found more people in the last several days that are much happier with their 4.3 than the 2.2 (power & reliability wise). my personal favorite is the 2.8L v-6, great little engine, too bad the don't put it in s-10's anymore.
  • expert1expert1 Posts: 133
    Sorry about your bad lemon luck. I checked Edmunds before my purchase and they rated the 4 cyl. 5 out of 5 stars for the 2000. The 1999s and below had engine troubles, but supposeably they were fixed on the 2000 model. Maybe you got one of the 1999 motors in your 2000. I just drove it into the mountains, with my wife, and only had to shift down to 4th a couple of times. Going back home it remained in 5th the whole time. 23-29 mph has some sacrifices and power is one. With 2500 on the odo it runs great, doesn't knock when cold, doesn't shift hard into 2nd, and stops on a dime. For what I got, Vortec 4 and all, I am quite pleased. The ride is far superior to the small Fords and Dodges and for what you get for the money is well worth it. I know a guy that had the old iron duke 4 in his S-10 and got 200K+ miles without a problem. Maybe the 2000 Vortec 4s can be this same engine.
  • somehow i completely missed that board. thanks for the link.
  • Hey, I have a 1987 chevy s-10 pickup. It has a 2.8L v-6 4 spd auto(700R-4) I have some 14 inch rims with p195/75/r 14 tires on it. I want to put some "big meats" under my truck without having to deal with a lift right now. What size could I put under it and at what costs? Thamks for your help. Wishmaster350
  • You're welcome. Thanks for you participation. ;-)

    Pickups Message Board
  • I have a 1998 Chevy S10 truck. Overall the truck has been pretty good to me with a few exceptions. Every so often the "service engine soon" light comes on. It has been doing this for the past year or so and each time I have brought it to the dealer they tell me its the light itself and not a problem with truck. Also the handle for the extended cab door broke off while I was trying to open it one day, and the handle to raise / lower the seat back came off as well. Either I don't know my own strength or GM uses cheap plastic. Other than that its been pretty good. Starts up no problem, drives no problem either.
  • mdecampsmdecamps Posts: 115
    Am I the only one that is getting the knocking when cold on the 2.2L in my '98 S-10? Mine started when the engine had about 25K on it. It's noticable in cold weather until the engine warms up.
  • the5carthe5car Posts: 26
    What do you mean by knocking? My motor makes
    some noise in the morning, but it disappears
    after about 5 minutes. And what do you mean
    by cold? How cold are your mornings? I've
    been dealing with lows in the teens for the
    last 3-4 weeks, so I expect some engine noise
    on startup until the oil can begin traveling
    throughout the motor. BTW, my engine now has
    126,000 miles on it ('97 LS 5-speed).

    I also posted earlier about some drivetrain
    noise that I heard...turns out it was the
    universal...when did GM start injecting plastic
    into the driveshaft yoke in order to prevent
    the joint from moving? What a pain in the tail
    that replacement was. I tried to do it the
    old fashioned, proper way by using a vise and
    some sockets, but it wouldn't budge. Ended up
    having to beat the thing out with a hammer.
    And why doesn't the factory joint come with
    a grease fitting like the replacement did?

    Sometimes I feel that car manufacturers are
    in cahoots with the parts dealers...
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Maybe be a bad sensor somewhere. In my 92 the light would come on and go off. Dad took it to his friends boat shop where he had a computer that could read the codes. Came back BAD O2 sensor fixed that and never came back on again

  • PAmanPAman Posts: 207
    Several years ago, I bought a Ranger 4 cylinder, manual tranny, regular cab to drive from San Antonio to Austin--about 60 miles each way. Nice truck, but I wished I had a six cylinder, automatic and extended cab almost from the begining. Traded it in less than a year.

    This past June, had to buy a new truck when my 1970 El Camino SS was rear-ended by a woman in a Nissan Maxima reading a billboard @ 50MPH instead of driving while I was sitting at a red light. Totaled a truck I had worked on for over two years to restore in the blink of an eye, and probably would have killed me if I didn't have my seat belt on. Ouch!

    Remembered the Ranger experience and this time got a new 2000 S-10 with the V-6, automatic, extended cab with LS trim and all the bells and whistles. At the time, I bought the S-10 for three reasons; price, tow rating and I personally think the new Ranger interiors look as if they were designed by the same guy that did bus and subway interiors. The S-10 had some HUGE rebates at the time, and was rated to pull 5,200 pounds with the 4.3L engine. The Ranger was close in price and tow rating with the 4.0L engine, but couldn't find one--most dealers only ordered the 3.0L V-6 or the 4 cylinder.

    Nearly seven months and about 10,000 miles later--WOW!!! Drives great, lots of punch off the line, QUIET, QUIET, QUIET cab, not a hint of trouble, and will haul or pull anything I've thrown at it so far, including my 24' travel trailer, 15 bags of concrete @ 80 lbs each (was overloaded but didn't have to go far and with the HD suspension, handled the load just fine).

    I'm 6'3" and hate getting in most cars--feel like I have to fold up like a pocket knife to keep from hitting my head or knees. This thing is the most comfortable vehicle I've owned in years. My buddy at work owns a '96 Dodge Dakota. The first words out of his mouth when he rode in it was how much smoother and quieter it was than his Dodge.

    If you don't absolutely need a full-size truck, BUY THE S-10!!! I will own mine for years, as long as that woman in the Maxima doesn't hit me again.

    If my story doesn't convince you, then consider truck has a higher TRADE-IN value right now than what I paid for it six months ago!
  • Tallcat-Chevy s-10's are now available for 2001 in the crew cab. Picked mine up 3 weeks ago and I love it!
  • Pepster - Your the first person I've seen with a 2001 crew-cab. Would you mind commenting on a couple of points? I am VERY interested in buying one of the GM crews, but need some honest opinions from someone who already has driven on for more than a test drive.

    Do you have a read on the highway mileage yet? Is the back seat really usable? I have two small kids, both in car seats, and would like to know whether you'd recommend this truck under those conditions (i.e. are there rear child-seat tether points available). Any problems yet?

    My other choice is an Escape, but would rather go with the CC, for various reasons. Thanks.
  • Mark
    I have not checked out the gas mileage yet. The back seat is the same size as the blazer. It is a standard size not small like jumper seats. Adults fit good but I have not taken it on a real long trip yet with an adult passenger in the rear. The adult passengers that did ride in it said they had enough room. For kids it is perfect. There are 2 shoulder strap type seat belts and one lap belt for a middle person. I am not sure about the tethers you are talking about since the kids I haul are 11 and 5, plus a golden retriever! People that have seen the back seat area are impressed with the amount of room it has.
    I would definitely look at one before you buy the escape. The only problem was that when it came in it did not have the middle lap belt for the rear passenger so had to wait a few days till they got another one in so they could get the belt out of that one. They did not want to order a belt without knowing what the part really was that they needed. Other than that there have been no problems. I am even getting a fiberglass lid put on in 2 days that I ordered. It is a great truck!
  • I have a 97 GMC Sonoma Highrider. 39,000 miles. In the past week or two I've noticed two things. 1. After I drive for a couple miles it starts shifting into second gear really hard (its auto). 2. When I am getting on the highway or pulling out on a hill (any time i accelerate hard) the truck makes a screeching, scratching, vibrating noise for a couple seconds. It dosen't do this everytime, but enough to be noticed. We checked the U joint and that seems to be fine. If anyone has any idea what this may be please let me know. Thanks so much, Scotti
  • Keep me (us) posted on your new CC (particularly the mileage -- you can e-mail me if you don't want to clutter up this forum, see my profile). I'm also interested to see if some of the problems I've seen posted for the '99/'00s appear to have been fixed (knocking when warm -- presumed to be the cam balancer?), or for that matter, if any new things have come up for '01.

    Where did you go for the fiberglass cover? Is this an aftermarket, or GM? How much did this set you back (if you don't mind me asking)? I also want to check into the running boards myself, with the hope that it will ease my concern for the paint when knocking off snowy boots.

    For what it's worth, my Dad has a '98 Sonoma, and aside from an uncanny ability to keep breaking the 3rd door handle, he's been quite satisfied with his choice. Another reason for me to look at the GM.
  • jlr52jlr52 Posts: 2
    I'm the not so proud owner of a 96 s-10 extra cab LS with 2.2 engine... After 61000K miles the head gasket leaked... I received a letter from Gm in My 2000 concerning this problem which included all 2.2 engines. in both the cavelier and the S-10... the dealer will fix the gasket but if the head is cracked like mine did, you will have to pay the 1200.00 to get it fixed... Has anyone else had this experience... the letter shows a date of MAY 2000 with a code of C00010
  • The fiberglass lid was an after market purchase thru a local truck accessory retailer. GM was not currently making any tops for the crew cab. To see the lid go to and click on new products. Of course the paint scheme is not the same. The price was just over $600 installed.

    Other after market products are soon to be available if not already. Although most of the vehicle is similar to either the blazer or an extended cab. The chasis is the same as the extended cab.

    Will let you know about gas mileage and hopefully there will not be any problems to report!
  • I have a new S-10 Crew Cab. I was one of the first here to have one in the east. I bought it because of my GM points. I generally like the vehicle. Good back seat and pretty good drive. But the gas Millage is unbelievable. I don't do city driving and get 10mgp. That's on small roads not going fast. On a freeway trip @ 65MPH I got 11.77. It's terrible. I knew it would be low but not like this. I like the truck and have a nice cap coming from Lear, But I need better millage. I guess that I am not the only one by reading these!
  • eddyveddyv Posts: 12
    I own a 97 s-10, ls, extended cab, 4.3l 5 speed. One thing I have noticed is that after I park it in my gargage and shot off the engine, right at the end of shotdown, there is a loud rattle that comes from the tranny area. So, I push the clutch in when I shut it down and the rattle doesn't occur. Anyone out there have similar sounds/issues? Other than that, exceptional truck. I only have 42000 on it. Comments welcome
  • Somebody with a CC please tell me that there is something wrong with Mathuzula's truck (no offense intended "M"). I can't, with a clear conscience, buy a truck (no matter how much I want it) that gets 10 mpg! That's worse than my old '84 F150 4x4 with a 4 bbl. Holley got!

    If this is the norm, I'm going to be forced to go for the Escape. I don't want to, I've got the GM points, as well as a supplier discount on GMs, not to mention my preference for a pickup over an SUV.

    Please, somebody give me some hope!
  • k0hbk0hb Posts: 89
    I had an S10 XC with the 4.3L and it was pretty bad for such a small vehicle (about 15MPG), but 10MPG is REALLY bad!

  • magillamagilla Posts: 75
    Here's the deal with Chevy: I'm the owner of a '96 S-10 2.2L, 5-sp. Yeh, yeh, I know it's different. But the bottom line is that Chevy will not stand behind their product unless you make them. They are pathetic! Believe me, I've tried. They will tell you that your mileage is "acceptable". Don't buy it. What you need to do is write a letter to the manager of the dealership explaining the situation. BE SURE TO COPY CHEVY CORPORATE/CONSUMER AFFAIRS. Otherwise, you are on your own and the next thing you know, you're out of warranty and they don't give a rat's (bleep)! I've only got 21K on mine and they turned their back on me. Kept on telling me that my mileage was acceptable. At best, I was getting 17!!! Let's see, the sticker that helped convince me to buy my S-10 said that it would get 23/29. The ranges were 19-26 city, 21-32 highway. If you'll notice, my mileage is below what they stated for the city range. And that is "acceptable".

    Anyway, I digress... Make sure you document everything you do with the dealership and corporate (the number is in your booklet). Take it from me. I've had every problem mentioned on this board and others, but the lemon laws in my state (AZ) require me to have the same problem (not numerous problems) 5 or more times. How slanted is that in the dealers' favor? Document, document, document. And don't take no for an answer. Stay on them. And yes, 10 city and 11.5 highway is beyond pathetic! Good luck, Brutha!
  • 18fan18fan Posts: 147
    I have a 1998 S-10 2WD 4CYL that is equipped with daytime running lights (DRLs) and automatic headlamps. I am smart enough to figure out when to turn on the headlights myself. Any info on how to disconnect the DRLs and the automatic headlights? I purchased the Haynes manual for S-10 trucks, blazer, etc but their wiring diagrams were of no help.
  • magillamagilla Posts: 75
    Go to and go to the forums. They talk about how to fool the DRLs with a very cheap part and it appears safe. Good luck.
  • guru101guru101 Posts: 15
    The best way to disable the DRLs on a 98 or 99 S-10/Sonoma is to disable them right at the fuse block. This is an absolutely free method, and requires no parts.

    All you have to do is pop the hood and locate the fuse relay box. It is on the driver's side, right next to the air cleaner assembly. Turn the thumb screw to free the cover and lift it up. On the inside of the cover you'll see a diagram of all the fuses and relays. One will be labeled DRL (in many cases it is the only black relay). Gently pull it out. There will be 5 pins on the bottom of the relay. Find the one labeled 87a and cut it off using wire cutters. Plug the relay back in. You're done.

    I've noticed that on some of the newer S-10s GM changed the numbering system on the bottom of the DRL relay (the pins are labeled 1-5 now instead of 86, 87, 87a, etc). In this case all you have to do is pull another relay of the same size and compare to see which pin (1-5) corresponds to 87a. I think GM did this because people figured out which one to clip.

    As a final note, you can't just remove the whole DRL relay. Otherwise, your left headlight won't work. Just cut off the one pin.
  • 18fan18fan Posts: 147
    Thanks for the info about the DRLs. I came across an unexpected problem. I live in PA (land of very high taxes) - it also has a strict annual inspection program. Learned that if a vehicle was equipped with DRLs from the factory, they must be operable when it is inspected, otherwise will fail inspection & cannot drive on the roads. I will modify my "fix" by getting another DRL module & clipping the pin off of it. When time to get the truck inspected, will simply switch out the modules. I checked on some auto parts web sites & they are not expensive. Thanks for your help.
  • dravodravo Posts: 1
    I have a 93 S-10 and this week the
    odometer turned 410,000 miles and I
    have had to fix nothing but items
    that come with normal wear and tear.
    I also have a 95 cavalier that is
    the biggest piece of junk that I
    have ever owned in my life.You name
    it I have had to fix it.
  • iusecadiusecad Posts: 287
    with 410k on your S-10, when do you find time to drive the Cavalier? ;>
This discussion has been closed.