Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Buick Park Avenue Maintenance & Repair



  • I just bought a 1994 Park Avenue (not Ultra) from an older lady. It only has 91000 miles but had set up for a while before I bought it (maybe a year) and the next day i noticed that it was hesitating when I would accelerate. Anyway it got worse and then wouldnt stay cranked. It would start but immediately cut off. I replaced all of the coil packs and the plate under them (i think it was called the ignition module) along with the fuel filter. Now it runs but is still cutting out at low rpms. Ive checked the air filter and am in the process of changing the spark plugs. I have all 3 in the front and 1 in the back. I cant get to the other two. I've heard something about an engine mount that would allow the engine to tilt but i have no idea where it is... Does anyone know anything about accessing the back spark plugs and so far with the 4 new plugs in its still skipping and if changing the plugs doesn't work, what next?? Any suggestions would really help.....Thanks
  • I am no help to you, but can commiserate. My 94 Buick seems to run fine, but at highway speeds will occassionally hiccup - jerk back a little like I hit something (but I didn't). I never have gotten an answer to my query about the voltage indicator light waving madly. It finally settled to the left and eventually, I was sitting in the middle of the street with no battery power. The alternator was replaced, but had tested good before the car died. After the alternator was replaced (by Good Year), the needle still wavered. I took it to a different mechanic who searched and searched for a problem, but couldn't find one. But, it has only happend once since then. When the indicator lays to the left, the lights dim and there's a deep humming noise. I'm sure it will come back.
  • I feel ya. mine is a little different mine skips when at idle and feels like im running out of gas but im not.. i have figured out that if i start in 1st gear and keep the rpms kinda kigh and not give it too much gas it runs pretty smooth.. i just found a vaccum line that was barely hanging on and i replaced it.. and a guy on here is giving me advice on troubleshooting so im goina keep trying and hopefully i can get it going because the car is in outstanding condition i mean with only 90000 miles and the interior is flawless the only thing is the headliner if falling but thats like 50 bucks to fix.. ohh and mine makes a whining noise like when you are low on power steering fluid but im not turning and not low on fluid....My needle pretty much stays at 13 ..........But who knows at least i have wheels so i guess i cant really complain about the backing up... But i will complain about the ac not being cold because the power windows dont roll down. I think the ac just needs charging and the windows are possibly a fuse because none of them even attempt to roll down and are completly dead.....I know i talk alot but i heard somewhere that temperature has something to do with it... where are you rrom , is it really hot or really cold?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,602
    >occassionally hiccup - jerk back a little like I hit something (but I didn't).

    That sounds like a spark plug miss or a spark plug wire. If you have 13 years and the plugs and wires haven't been replaced in that time you definitely need wires. Get good brand Belden from NAPA or AC Delco replacements. Use the specified plugs for that year. Get the longer life iridium or platinum tip plugs. Check your wire routing and keep them away from the wire for the oxygen sensor on the back side of the motor. Check for jumping at the coil towers. Clean them. Remove the wires and check the tips for corrosion if they're fairly new.

    For the other problem, clean the battery cables completely. Turn off the auto HVAC with the key on to protect it during restart later. Remove the battery cables and check for corrosion. If your positive side has double cables, cut into the plastic covering and be sure there is not corrosion between them. There's a lead spacer between the cables. Sometimes the corrosion there will cause poor contact on one despite being tight.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,602
    >the windows are possibly a fuse because none of them even attempt to roll down and are completly dead.....

    You need to check for power and for ground at the control in the door panel if it's set up the way I recall. Check the owners manual in the glovebox for fuses for power windows. There's a relay center on the firewall and the cover for that may list which large fuse there is for what. There also is a relay center and fuses on the passenger A-pillar. You take off a hush panel cover to get to it if I recall correctly. On top of the hush panel should be a diagram of which fuse and relay is which.

    I haven't looked at a manual for 94 PA but I suspect, suspect the ground buss that's at the A-pillar where the plastic goes horizontal under the door sill and carpet edge may, may be a ground for power windows. If they worked erratically I'd suspect the grounds but no power as you're saying indicates troubleshooting first to be sure power is getting to the wires in the door panel. The switch panel can be lifted; there are snaps at each end usually that can be released with a little pressure from a putty knife to lift.


    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • Thanks for the information. I realize most of you are very accomplished mechanics and I am not, however, I find the information on here essential. I will take as many of the steps you recommend as I can myself and ask for help with the others. Again, thanks.
  • Good afternoon. I have a 1999 Buick PA with about 135,000 miles on it. For some time now my "Service Engine Soon" light has been on. My car, without much notice, will shut off whenever I stop at red lights, stop signs or slow down to turn corners. I took it to AZ and they put a little monitor beneath my dash board. It read "MAS" (Massive Airflow Sensor I believe). I bought the sensor, had it installed and the "Service ..." light went off - but only for about 1 week. Last Sunday, the second week since the light has been off, while driving to a store about 1.5 miles away all was fine. When I left the store, however, a block away my car seemed like it was gasping for air (more like choaking) and cut off. After four attempts to restart it (when I turned the key in the ignition, I would hear it come on but it would not stay on), I finally got it going. It has not gone off since that time, but now I need inspection and I know it won't pass because of that darn light. Also, I've had the car for about four years and it has had a tune-up maybe once during that time. Needless to say, I want it fixed for safety reasons, too! Thanks!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,602
    There are many things. But you've learned that the quick scans and numbers they give don't always point to the problem. So for others, when the desk guy says "MAF" don't put it on. Do some posting and asking.

    I don't know all the symptoms of other things, but from what people have posted, I would check the EGR sticking open. One person had the driver unplug the EGR and drive the car to see if that fixed the problem. I believe unplugging would set a code that would have to be cleared, but it would be an EGR code and you'd know that caused it.

    Other things might be fuel pressure regulator. But that generally causes flooding on trying to start the car.

    When you say it had a tune up, that is only plugs and new wires. Did it get quality wires and AC spark plugs? How many miles back.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    I know this isn't a Buick, but this is the closest discussion I could come to. I think my car's power steering is dying a loud death. Whenever I turn it starts making all kinds of noise and once in a while the steering wheel won't turn very easily or it will kick back.

    I think it may be low on fluid, but I can't find the reservoir to check. I've looked under the hood 3 or 4 times, but no dice. If it makes any difference I have the 3800 Series II engine.

    Thank you for any help you can provide.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,602
    Go to the alternator on top at back of motor. Go down behind it about 12 inches and you'll see the power steering pump with a cap on top to use for checking fluid level. I think the cap has Power Steering in letters on it maybe in yellow. But they're probably direct now. Look for the serpentine belt around the pulley for the pump. I suggest a good, bright shop light to help you find things. They'll probably be oil splattered and dark.

    I'll bet you're low on fluid. The slight seeps lower the fluid level over the years. It's been 10 years.

    Pick up a long neck funnel somewhere so you can add power steering fluid to the thing.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Thank you for your help. I am going to check on that when it gets brighter out. I'm hoping that's all it is.
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    I just checked to reservoir and it was bone dry. I'm going to pick some fluid up within the next couple days. Is there a special fluid to buy?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,602
    Don't drive the car without refilling. It may already have hurt the pump. If you have another car pick up Power Steering fluid at any place and put some in. There is still fluid in the bottom that's not showing on the dipstick or you wouldn't get pump action to help steer.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    Okay. Thank you for the tip. I'll have to pick some up next time I go out. I appreciate the help and advice. This car is old and isn't really worth what it would cost to get it running perfectly, but I still want to use it for a while longer.
  • imidazol97:

    Thanks sooo much for your reply! On the evening I posted my question, I went back to AZ and had another diagnostic test. That reading indicated that I needed to check my Catalytic "xyz" and Massive Airflow Sensor. I told the young man that I received the MAS reading a week or so before and because of that I purchased a new MAF sensor and had it installed. Now disgusted with these new "codes" I took the car to PB so they could a) just fix the darn thing and b) do inspection afterwards. Well, much to my dismay, they called me at work and said their diagnostic test sited that I needed a Body Control Module. They said they could not service my car nor issue me the inspection stickers because the SE Soon light was still on. They told me the best place for me to go is to a Buick dealership. One good thing, though, PB did not charge me the $89.00 + tax for the diagnostic test. When I called the nearest dealership (which is 1,000,000,00 miles away), they gave me a total price of $545.00 for the part and labor ($595.00 when I called a little later in the day to confirm). Disgusted again, I wound up calling an old mechanic friend. He told me to drop the car off on Friday morning and he would look at it. Well, that was April 3rd but I got my car back on April 5th and that was only because I wanted him to drive it around awhile just in case something was to come up. So far, Thank God, my car has been running fine. :lemon: And, at the very least, I have an old friend/mechanic back in my life.

    Thanks, again, imidazol97
  • tankbeanstankbeans Posts: 585
    I filled up my power steering it was pretty empty, but now the car turns like a dream and doesn't yell at me.
  • where is the fuel vapor canister located. I was told my 00 park ave had a leak but I don't know where to look for it. I checked and replaced the gas cap but the check engine light keeps coming on with the same code.

    Any info or suggestions will be greatly appreaciated. :mad:
  • check out your Mass airflow sensor. my 2000 buick had a simular problem and replacing that solved it. to test it simply unplug it and start the car. It should run perfictly smooth and besides losing a little bit of gas milage should drive fine too. your check engine light might come on too but replacing the sensor should reset that :shades:
  • dabodabo Posts: 3
    I have a '94 Park avenue. The temperature numbers (only) on the temperature display will blink on and off about five times when I hit the auto button on the environmental controls console. Since this has started, the heating/cooling is wacky. The fan will set itself on high, and I will get heat out of the driver vents and cold out of the passenger vents. Does the flashing temp numbers indicate a failure or error? Is there a way to reset this system?
  • dabodabo Posts: 3
    The temperature digits flash when the car is turned on, not when the auto button is pushed.
Sign In or Register to comment.