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Infiniti G35 Care and Maintenance



  • My dealer offers alifetime oil change for $300. I purchased that when the car was new, and I am about to get my 8th "free" oil change (plus they handwash and clean the car each time). :) Since a change is typically $30 with the filter, ($40 at the dealer), I am almost ahead in two years.

    See if your dealer has anything like that. It is worth it in the long run.
  • bronsonbbronsonb Posts: 170
    Wow - $300 for lifetime oil changes?!?! That is a GOOD deal. I know I'd sign up for it...though we won't be buying a new car until late next year at the earliest. In our preliminary look-see, the G35 is right now at the top of my wife's list, and it will be her car...replacing her 1999 VW Passat V6 GLS...120K miles and still going strong.

    I guess the dealer hopes to get you in regularly so they can try to find other things that need to be done to the car. Also, are the oil changes free only if you get other services done at the dealer? For example, do you have to have one of those expensive 40K checkups done?

    At VW, the 40K checkup included stuff like "Check door hinges, turn signals, and trunk operation..." It was a laundry list of stuff you could easily do yourself, but they charged $400 for it. The only true maintenance they were doing was an oil and filter change...the rest was (IMHO) fluff (at least at the dealer we went to).

    Anyway, congrats on the car and the oil change deal. I hope it continues to be the good deal it sounds like.
  • It is a great deal with no catches. The dealer gets the car in and out usually within the hour (I wait for it) and they do not pressure me for other work, although they do mention it when I pass a mileage point like $30,000.

    I have had some extra work done, but only what is in the manual, not the "we will check your doorknobs for adjustment special".

    They change the oil and filter, and do a hand wash of the car that is probably worth $10 by itself.

    I have had the car for a little over two years now and nothing has gone wrong with it. If you are in a winter state, be careful about winter tires. The summer specials that come with he car turn it into a hockey puck when there is snow and ice on the ground. (See discussions in the tire forum).
  • sweendogysweendogy Left lanePosts: 1,299
    OIL Change --Infiniti dealer in boston charged me 60 bux for the first oil change is that normal?? G35x 2007
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    My first oil change came to $45 @ Inskip in Warwick, RI.
    $60- seems a little high in comparison.

    I thought $45- was high... but a guy who drops $40k on a car can't complain about the $45- oil change, I guess.

    I plan on doing most of them myself... but I had to go in for the moonroof TSB anyway, so I figured..what the heck.

    With the new keyfobs out now, I may end up there again for oil change #2.
  • zekeman1zekeman1 Posts: 422
    $35 in Kansas City.
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Maybe I should drive from MA to Kansas City for my next oil change...saving me $10
    I could get one Starbucks Latte each way, and it'd be almost like they were free! :P
  • First oil change in Jacksonville, FL was 42. The 7500 mile checkup was 110. Ouch, not even sure they really did anything special.
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    The 7,500 mile checkup should have included an oil change as well as a tire rotation.
    Other things include an inspection of brakes, driveshafts & boots, propeller shaft, pilot bearing & universal joints, exhaust, steering & suspension.
    These inspections are just fluff and basically, are a complete ripoff.
    I'd bet my right --- that your propeller shaft was never inspected. LOL

    If your oil change is normally $42, that made your tire rotation $68-.
    Ouch is right!
  • sweendogysweendogy Left lanePosts: 1,299
    I Knew that 60bux for an oilchange was high== HerbChambers of boston I will need to have a chat with the service manager next time I go in.. For all smartkey holders they have the new keys at your dealer so next time you go in bring both keys and they will replace them.
  • My dealer told me that infiniti's engine doesn't require any break-in - its all done in the factory.. is that true?? but anyway I am following the suggestions on how to drive during the first 1200 miles or so..

    I have about 600 miles on my G35x auto but haven't driven in the M mode. Should one be driving in the M mode now and then during the first so many miles??
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Your dealer is a complete moron.

    You should go back there and tell them to read the manual.
    See below for the manual info.

    As for M mode, feel free to use it.
    When the car is new, it has a mind of it's own.
    Keeping it below 4,000 RPMs and avoiding quick starts is very tough.
    M mode gives you much more control of your RPM limitations.

    Just be sure to avoid the constant temptation to floor it. :blush:


    During the first 1,200 miles (2,000 km),
    follow these recommendations to obtain
    maximum engine performance and ensure
    the future reliability and economy of your
    new vehicle.
    Failure to follow these recommendations
    may result in shortened engine life and reduced
    engine performance.

    O Avoid driving for long periods at constant
    speed, either fast or slow. Do
    not run the engine over 4,000 rpm.

    O Do not accelerate at full throttle in any

    O Avoid quick starts.

    O Avoid hard braking as much as possible.
  • shov8shov8 Posts: 87
    I plan on following the break-in schedule with my new G35, of course, but I am curious to know if anyone has ever heard about any engine issues that were attributed to not following the break-in? It might be impossible to tell, or even know. If you had a major issue down the road (say 80k or 90k miles) and you didn't follow the break-in, how would anyone know that was the root cause? I wonder what percent of people even follow the break-in period?

    Again, I'm just curious and plan to follow the break-in period, which incidentally is twice as long as my wife's new '08 v6 Accord :mad:

  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    I know what you're saying and you're exactly right.

    Not folloing the break-in schedule will do little in the short term, and some die hards swear by driving it hard in the beginning, but long term is where this comes into play.

    People with engine trouble 75-90K down the road, I always wonder if they broke the car in correctly.
    Point is, even a mechanic wouldn't know if inproper break-in was the cause.

    If you're like me and plan on long term ownership, then following the suggestion of proper break-in is the only way to go.

    But at 1,200... all hell breaks loose! :P
  • The Infiniti owner's manual and car service departments insist that no synthetic oils are to be used in their engines (for G35). Does anyone ACTUALLY KNOW (not theoretically) exactly why? What negative effects would the synthetics have on the G35 engine?
  • It would be nice if there was a way to tell how a vehicle had been driving during the break-in period; after all, how would we know that someone hadn't already used the vehicle we purchased on a test drive and tested it's boundaries before we ever stepped foot in it.
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    Every G35 comes with a letter, usually in the glove box, stating what tests were done at the factory and how many miles it had on it when it left. (assuming the dealership prep guy doesn't throw it away)
    When you buy your car, it should certainly have less than 20 miles on it.

    The factory tests can be up to 10 miles, but are usually no more than 5 or 6.
    The other few miles come from transferring the cars from transports and around the dealer lots.

    My car came with 10.5 miles on it.
    Common sense will tell you if the car has been test driven before you buy.
    I don't know about other dealerships, but my test drive lasted almost 45 minutes and we drove that car EXTREMELY hard. I just followed the instructions of the salesman, and was amazed at the limits he allowed me to go to.
    Fun test drive, but there's no way in heck I wanted to buy that one when we were done!
  • cdnpinheadcdnpinhead Forest Lakes, AZPosts: 4,141
    I have an '04 Pathfinder, and it has the same wording in the manual. I work in aerospace, and my guess is that it's the materials they use in o-rings & seals. Synthetic oil (MIL-L-23699 & MIL-L-7808 in my world) MUST be used with appropriate o-rings, or they'll shrink & fail to seal correctly. Either way, I run dino oil in the PF, just like I did years ago in my 240Z that still had hone marks in the cylinders when I tore the engine down at 200K miles (all I really needed was stem seals, it turned out).

    Just a theory, but in another board a few years ago I put this idea forward and someone came back to say that they had developed an oil leak a few months after starting to use synthetic oil.

    In reality, synthetic oil is only really helpful above 250 deg F (oil temp) or below zero. Otherwise, in my opinion, it's a lot like filling your tires with nitrogen -- makes you feel good & makes more money for someone.

    That said, I've been running Mobil 1 in my car for years & it has 123K miles on the engine.
  • By far the best answer I've read. In reality, I've been reading about the hype associated with synthetics, and after awhile it sounds like the proverbial "self fulfilling prohecy"- it's expensive, it has good reviews and therefore, it must be good (and so everyone imagines them to be superior b/c of the hype, cost and marketing). I've used Catrol GTX for decades and have gotten well over 300,000 miles on my Volvo engines (3 cars to date from the 80-90's). So, it seems that the issue is not oil type (synthetic vs. dino) but how one takes care of their car!

    Again, thanks for solid feedback!
  • shov8shov8 Posts: 87
    Hey! I just opened my glove box and found that note LOL. I hadn't opened the glove box since taking delivery :)

    Anyways, I can't make out the first name of the "quality assurance engineer" who tested my car, but his last name is Honda. Kinda funny eh? My car had 5 miles from the factory according to the note. There was also a little brochure about the navi system, just showing the coverage area and lane guidance. My '08 has Map Version 8.0 software FYI.

    Lastly, my experience during the test drive was exactly the same. I too was surprised at how much they let you do, even ask you to do, during the test drive. When the salesman was demoing the paddle shifter he said "take it to the redline - I want you to hit the rev limiter" or something very close to that :) He was showing that in DS mode the car will not shift for you. Man, some demo! And this on a car with like 25 miles on it. I was a good boy and did not hit the rev limiter but after the test drive I plopped my deposit down and said (to myself) "good thing I am not buying that car!" ;)

  • Today my dash lit up with VSD Off and Slip my whole ride into work, and the brake light flashed occasionally. The dealer says it is probably my front brakes - does this sound right?

    Are there any known issues pertaining to what I am seeing or the front brakes in general?

    I purchased the car from a dealer in August - it has 29k miles. Should brakes be something I am expecting about now?

    Thanks for any posts!
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    In an 05 G35x??? LOL

    Are you kidding?!?

  • disappointing... :( don't appreciate the lol. any recommendations for how to approach this with the dealer?
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    The LOL was not aimed at your situation and I do apologize.

    I'm just amazed at how people go and buy cars with little to no research first.
    The 05 G35x is absolutely PLAGUED with brake issues and is an extremely well known issue.

    I wish you stopped by here in July before buying in August... many would have given you the heads up.

    When the cars were under warranty, the dealer was pretty good about fixing these issues.
    Once out of warranty, especially with a used car, it's highly unlikely they'll do much for you.
    With 27,000 miles, the car should still be under warranty.
    Make sure they know that you are well aware of the known brake issues and you want this corrected for FREE.
    Also explain that you have very little miles added since purchasing.
    If worded correctly, you can put them on the spot for selling you a car with unsafe, unfit brakes.

    If they'll willing to work with you, this brake job may be free, or at least discounted.
    I'd be looking for all new parts for the next brake job though... the factory setup stinks.

    My #1 concern before buying the 07 was brakes.
    #2 was Bluetooth, as the pre-07 models had many complaining owners in that dept as well.
    I did a lot of research and asking around before I took the plunge.

    Go back and complain.
    Be polite and state your case.
    This car is new to you, has very little miles since you bought it and the brakes are gone.
    Use words like "unsafe", "warranty", and "known issue" while explaining that this should have been caught during their pre-sale safety inspection.
    They should help you.

    Good luck and keep us posted.
  • gooddeal2gooddeal2 Posts: 750
    I think it can be the brake. I used to have an '05 coupe. I needed to have some body work done and they needed to disconnect the battery. After they re-connected the battery, the SLIP light was on (car was kind of slippery when the light was on). I just have it reset by the dealer.

    I don't think you get the extended warranty on brakes on '05. It's only for '03 and '04.

    I don't have any major brake issues w/ my '05. I just needed to have it resurfaced once when I traded it in w/ around 17K miles.
  • scottm123scottm123 Posts: 1,501
    But... the 05x (keyword being "x") was the worst hit with the whole brake thing.
    The 05 brakes are a real issue.

    There were talks of a class action law suit for this but I can no longer find the threads on it, or any other info.
    I have no idea how it turned out, or if it ever went anywhere.
  • I lease a g35 back in July and just came up on 4k miles. I know they have 2 schedules for required maintenance and I could argue that I belong in the schedule 2 (less frequent) program.

    Does Infiniti care which one you choose? Does it affect your lease/warranty if you chose to do schedule 2 instead of schedule 1?

    I just want to make sure I don't get screwed at the end of my lease at 30k miles so if anybody has info on this I would appreciate it.

  • wolewole Posts: 2
    LA would be preferred - any help would be appreciated.
  • Guys - I drove the car into the dealers for a good old battery change and the dealer did an inspection to reveal that the compression rod bushings are worn. Apparently they cost $335 and $130 to mount back and align the tires.

    I have never heard of this before. Is this a real problem? What's the impact of such a problem and do I need to spend all this money at the dealer or do I have a more economical solution available to me that I dont know of? I just replaced my tires btw...
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Probably, depending on how many miles are on your car.

    These are heavy rubber bushings through which a rod is threaded. Like all rubber suspension parts, the rubber deteriorates and wears over time, eventually developing cracks or tearing completely.
This discussion has been closed.