Doesn't anyone make a 100K mile timing belt?
While using belts instead of chains has certain advantages, the major disadvantage of course is the fact that it needs to be replaced every 60K miles or so. Someone needs to develop a belt that last at least 100K miles or more. The cost of the belt isn't the problem, changing the belt is. I had an '84 Honda Accord that was a royal pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to change the belt on. A major project. I have a '93 Toyota Tercel now that will need a new belt in less than 10K miles. It looks to be much easier to work on, but still no walk in the park. And you have to pay a mechanic to do this, you're looking at at least $200. If they can make serpantine belts that last 100K, why can't they timing belts to last this long?
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I have a big list of good things/bad things,,,
you figure that into the lifetime cost/PITA....
eventually you figure out that some vehicles will dime you to death and others will dollar you to death....good luck dude!
see ya
Rando
The newer Hondas maintenance indicate a change in timing belt at around 105k. You can check Honda to see if they make the same longevity on older hondas now.
One question though, anyone knows what's the advantage of timing belt against timing chain? I know that Infiniti went with timing chains on their 2000 models.
Someone mentioned not to mess with a belt on a Honda. Did you mean don't try to change it yourself, or don't go over the mileage without changing the belt? I can vouch for the difficulty of changing the belt on a Honda. I wouldn't do it again. Huge pain in the ars! As far as changing at the recommended inervals, it depends if your engine is an interference engine or not. If it is, I would definitely change when called for. If you break a belt, or even jump a tooth, your engine is toast. If it's a non-interference engine, just change it when you feel like changing it. No harm, no foul.
There is just no reason one would last longer on the left coast as opposed to the east. But to protect yourself if you are under warranty, you better do it according to the manufacturers requirement. If it is out of warranty, and non interference, I agree with bottgers, do whatever you want. The worse thing that can happen is you will have to be towed in if it breaks. Of course that could be a major pain in the butt under some circumstances.
That being said, a good old pushrod engine doesn't have that worry.
You will see a marked return to the use of timing chains in new cars, and I predict they will predominate once again. The trend is already clear say the industry experts.
A belt won't stretch, but will fail suddenly, which is why it's best to replace them at a regular interval to play it safe. As time went on though, the chains have just gotten better and better. Now they can make them reach out to the camshafts in OHC engines, and do it reliably.
Just for the record, chains can fail too, especially once the automakers started going towards those nylon/mesh/whatever things in the '60's, to make them quieter (and probably save on costs)
2001 BMW 330ci/E46, 2008 BMW 335i conv/E93
I bought my car with 96,500 miles on it and now it has 102k miles on it and I am thinking about getting the timing belt changed ? Any suggestions about how important it is ?
Thanks in advance.
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1992 Honda Accord 4-Cyl. 2.2 L
Application Product Type Part # Comments
Belt Drive System
Belts
Alt. & A.C.
Automotive V-Ribbed Belt K050435
Alt.; W/O A.C.
Automotive V-Ribbed Belt K050375
P.S.
Automotive V-Ribbed Belt K040420
Balance Shaft
Automotive Timing Belt T186 Interference engine application
Cam.
Automotive Timing Belt T187 Interference engine application
Timing Belt Component Kit
Timing Belt Component Kit TCK186 Interference engine application
http://www.gates.com/part_locator/index.cfm
the result is The Man saying, "five thousand dollah, please."
I was quite happy to have Ford recall all the >= KILLER TIRES! =< and get that rip-tread issue out of my hair, too.
So I think in the future you will see more combinations of belts, chains and gears, depending on the engine, its size, power, etc.
on the other hand, there are two generic oil problems... getting it where you want it... and keeping it away from where you don't... and there is still going to be a seal under high RPMs on the end of a well-oiled shaft going to the timing belt, which oil will rot quickly. if the seal kept excessive oil back from a chain that needed some, you wouldn't kill an engine from seal failure unless you had idiot lights and ran the engine dry. doesn't work that way with a timing belt.
but almost double the life from one molding house to another? nah. nobody is making noise about the kind of differences (aramid, rubber types) that would indicate a major difference.
At any rate, it looks like I'll be stuck with another 60K belt. My tercel will have 100K on it at its next belt change. It may be a bit optimistic on my part to think this car will go another 100K, but I think it will.
Relax...there are bigger things to fret over.
By the way, I know that all the new Toyotas with one or two exceptions have timing chains, not belts, because I have a friend who just got a new Toyota, and his maintenance schedule has the listing for every model that needs timing belts routinely changed, and there are only four or five specific model and engine combinations listed. Certainly all the new camrys and corollas have chains.
I am glad they are going back to timing chains - reduced maintenance and things to remember. I thought they originally went to belts because they were cheaper, lighter, and quieter?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
The guy "convinced" me that I did not need more heat buildup, and the result was my 50K miles Geo Prizm flunking! The guy suggested that the oxygen sensor was probably the culprit. They are very expensive. I left and went home. That evening I thoroughly cleaned the distributor cap of all scale build up, pulled and checked the plugs, changed the air cleaner, etc. The next day I drove into the mountains and back to town (about 40 miles) and went back to the guy's emission bay for my one-time free repeat. I stood there and watched every step and result. I passed with huge margins below the limits!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I am glad that dealers (Toyota/Subaru at least) are beginning to ramp up their service to offer oil changes quickly and at roughly the same price as the quickie places, because I think they are in general a bit more responsible about what they will recommend a customer to have done. Hopefully more people that have their oil changed for them will go to the dealer to do it. Both my local Toyota and Subaru dealers will guarantee an oil change in 29 minutes or less or the next is free, no appointment needed, and they charge less than $30 for it. No huge bargain, I agree, but at least that way people probably won't get ripped off for a hundred things they do not really need at all.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
To those of you who think you do not have an interference engine, it's worthwhile double checking. I've seen people on the boards here who were told by the sales guy that their car had a chain or that it wasn't an intereference engine...lies, lies, damned lies! Or they don't know their product...you decide.
Anyway, here's the site:
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=981&location_id=540
Look at the pdf file at the bottom of the page.
Interestingly, most Toyota engines are not of the interference design type.