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124

Comments

  • pyro49pyro49 Posts: 4
    To be honest I did a lot of work on my own car for many years due to lack of $$$$,but as I've gotten older(much older!) being able to bring a vehicle in for maintence and service is a guilty pleasure. But the caveat is to find a service station You can trust. The station I go to now I've haunted for almost 15 years and they are good people. When I first went there I told them I was looking for a garage that wouldn't rip me off at the first chance, so far I think they've treated me more than fair and done a good job of keeping a happy customer and vehicles that run and work the way the factory intended
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Posts: 1,518
    I buy some of my repairs now, that years ago I would have done myself. I just wish I had a place to take my vehicles that was both top notch and never made me feel overcharged.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    removing the cat for the PVC valve is pretty bad.

    my 2000 AWD V8 Exploder was built with one of a bad run of oil pressure sensors. which are located way too close to the lip of the oil pan and behind too much kerrrrrap. in fact, Ford footed the warranty bill for hoisting the engine to replace the sensor. my dealer had almost a couple dozen built in that run, found money!

    almost as bad as the Mustang Machs with selfsame 302 V8 in the early 70s... it took several years for the special wrenches and hole plug kits for the fenders to be jinned up... in the meantime... that engine, and it ran hot and gooked up plugs then, had to be hoisted to replace at least one of the eight plugs (I think it was #5.)
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Same thing with V8 Chevy Monza's. The engine had to be lifted for access to #3 plug.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I dimly recall one car where it was recommended to drill a large hole in the firewall to access a plug, but I forget which car.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Posts: 1,518
    That kind of "engineering" should be punishable under the law! To this day, when shopping for new vehicles, I insist on inspecting the engine bay. The number of "fabulous" vehicles that I have walked or run away from is staggering. I know I'll get the big design burn one day, but have been pretty lucky so far.
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    that pile should have been recalled!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I can't recall, kinley. Some cars have had access holes bult in the inner fenderwell, too. That's also clunky, but better than drilling.

    I imagine the firewall drilling was a way of avoiding lifting the engine each and every time you needed a tune up. Of course, nowadays you don't have to pulll spark plugs as often.

    How about a water pump on a Fiat X1/9?

    Book calls for 7.7 hours.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    A heater core in a Peugeot 604? 12 hours of miserable labor!

    Hardly worth it when those cars were three years old!
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Posts: 1,518
    I wanted one of those (Chrysler captive import)Sunbeam Alpines bad, back in the early 70's, but settled for a full size car that fit my practical needs better. I STILL want the Sunbeam. In recent years I tried on a Mazda Miata as a substitute, but it was too cramped in the cockpit. I passed it up. Nissan Z cars-- The reasons are always the same: I want it, but it doesn't fit.
  • ocelot1ocelot1 Posts: 101
    95 montero 3.5 you have to pull the intake plentum and all the goodys attached to get to 3 of the plugs and wires.60k changes.I think the book is 4 hours R&R. Tony (The lucky owner)
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Spark Plugs - R&R

    V6
    Montero, 3000GT..... 2.2
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,496
    ...it's ba-ack! I ended up giving in and having the repair shop do the front brakes and idler arm/center link on our '85 LeSabre. Whole bill ended up being about $611. I do remember the labor portion was about $250, and the parts (2 front rotors, front pads, centerlink, idler arm) came to about $350, plus a few odds and ends to get to the $11.

    It turns out though, that my uncle ended up getting a brand-new car, anyway. 2003 Corolla. Don't ask me why we put $600 into an old car, and then he ended up getting a new one anyway...my family does stuff like that! It is amazing though, what a difference the new parts make. I hadn't realized how sloppy the car had gotten. I probably just adjusted and got used to it as the steering got looser and looser.

    Harry, thanks for the email. I'll give the caliper/piston rebuild a try when I have some free time. Hey, any idea how much those things are if I mess one up? ;-)
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    I have a 1996 V8 Explorer with 125,000 miles on it. The last time i had it in the shop for maintence, the mechanic mentioned that it the exhaust manifold sound rough and may need replacement. He asked if it smooths out once it warms up, which it does.

    What does the exhaust manifold do, how important is it and how much does it cost to repair or relace it?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Maybe he meant intake manifold?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The exhaust manifolds collect the burnt gases from the cylinders and route them to the exhaust pipe. Usually cast iron, and a cracked one might allow exhaust gas to escape when the engine's cold but seal up when the manifold heats up and expands.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Yes, but I don't know how that relates to rough running, unless he just meant "rough sounding".
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    2 weeks ago, just before an extended trip I took the car in for a once over. Turns out the Seal between the manual transmission was leaking significantly and lost a pint of fluid in 3 months. The repair was about $100, including parts. When I picked it up they said you're lucky it's not a 1997 or newer. That repair would have cost $600.00. Go figure.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    It sounds rough not rough running.
  • bcarter3bcarter3 Posts: 145
    My daughter has a 95 Contour that I do routine maintenance on. I finally figured out that the only way to avoid a real mess was to pack a bunch of rags under the filter. Enough rags to absorb all of the oil. After the new filter is on I just pull the rags out.
    I will NEVER change the PCV again!!!!! The timing belt is no picnic either. Come to think about it, that is one of the worst cars for DIY maintenance.
  • lokkilokki Posts: 1,200
    I remember an article that I read a few years ago in (Car& Driver?) which said that the cost of an alternator for an Acura Integra (about $400) was higher than the cost of an alternator for a Ferrari 308.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Posts: 1,118
    I have been keeping detailed computer records for maintenence for 5 years on older cars and found that the Japanese cars generally cost 35--50% more to repair. Like front struts. Domestic was $150, and Import $225. Some are worse. Example, Changing a timing belt on my Dodge and related procedures $155.00. Same repair on the Subaru $350. Same Repair on my Japanese Mazda $400.00.

    I was astonished to discover that when the repair and maintenence costs are averaged over the 5 years that they cost approximately the same. The Japanese had fewer but more expensive repairs. It generally has one significant repair or maintenence item a year. The domestic had more repairs 2-3 per year, but lower cost.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    that was a cheap shot for C&D, because they didn't tell you the labor charge to put the Ferrari alternator on the car!
  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 20,225
    Ohmygawd...how many hours at, what, 150.00/hr. in some speciality botique Ferrari shop?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Got a call from someone selling a 70s era Rolls Royce out of an estate. It's been in storage a long time, and the brake pedal goes to the floor. I waited for the phone to drop when I told the daughter that she should count on about $6,000-8,000 to redo the hydraulics.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    that's if they don't have to fly a mechanic in from either Noo Yawk City (get a rope) or England to carry the magic 5.241 mm wrench to permit bleeding the bleedin' lines. you get into the rolls and bentley class cars, you had better be in the class of never having to ask the cost, just of asking them to put fresh water in the bud vases before returning the car.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Maintenance costs on Rolls and Bentleys is a real bloodbath. It's shocking. It's beyond shocking. You have to see it to believe it. I remember once loosing the little tiny machine screws that hold the top of the mastery cylinder reservoir on. That was 8 screws @ $4 each and of course, nothing made in the USA seemed to work.

    After years and years of hanging around cars, you realize that some cars are engineered to be fixed easily and some aren't.
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    had a coworker in the early 80s with a early 70s mercedes diesel. took it in for engine work to the certified Fritzes at the dealership. they lost one nut from a cylinder head. couldn't find one anywhere in the United States. anywhere. finally, in a former Mercedes dealer in the cities, a nut was found. it was airmailed the 240 miles to Fargo and cost my buddy $15. it took two months to get that valve job finished.

    there were something like 15 different sizes and pitches of metric hardware in those heads, he was told.

    it ain't just a joke that Mercedes are durable, but those $900 mufflers will kill you eventually. we all better hope that DC fails at "integrating the parts flow" between the brands ;)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Some Benz parts are expensive but at least you can take the car apart and fix it. Benzes are really good for rebuilding things I've found. Always a good idea to shop aftermarket on German cars but one has to look for decent quality replacement parts.
This discussion has been closed.