Question about Alternators

clueless83

K - here's the deal - I am basically clueless about cars other than that I don't like mine at the moment. I bought a use '96 Grand Am about a year ago - currently it has 120k miles on it...since I bought it I have had lights that like to come on and off (most especially the check oil light and/or a combination of the ETS and check engine light at the same time) but just a few weeks ago my battery light came on and the next day the whole thing went nuts and died on me...it was diagnosed as the alternator and I got it fixed and it runs now - the only thing is my check oil light is coming on and off again...I have talked to a few people I know that know a thing or two about cars and they all told me to get rid of it ASAP because more than likely my alternator will go out again...I'm just looking for some suggestions and other people with experience - thanks!!!

opera_house_wk

120K isn't all that unreasonable to replace an alternator. Although an alternator problem can sometimes do strange things to dash lights, I doubt the oil light problem is connected. Is this a random occurance or just at idle.

Kirstie_H

My last alternator replacement (on a mazda protege) ran just over $200. That doesn't seem an unreasonable expense for a car with that mileage, especially considering the inevitable rise in the car payment for a replacement.

If your alternator was replaced recently and it goes out again, you should work out something with your mechanic, as the part may have been defective, or he missed something the first time around -- maybe a time for a change in mechanics rather than a change in cars?

kirstie_h
Roving Host
Edmunds.com

Mr_Shiftright

The oil light could be just a defective sensor; after all, most oil light go on when they are grounded by the sensor. So even a loose wire at the sensor (in the engine block) can cause this.

I don't think dumping a car with a flickering oil light is going to be too successful, financially or otherwise, so you'll have to deal with it.

swschrad

it's a button-type detector that screws into the engine block, and they can get plugged, leak, or have the switch contacts go wack with age. the only cars I have not had to replace the oil sender switch on were two 60s-era mopars. in particular, my 2k exploder was built during a bad run of oil pressure sensors, and warranty had to pay for hoisting the engine and taking off the oil pan, because the clearance to get to the sensor was designed to be insufficient. IMHO ford had that coming for not putting the (freaking) thing up high and in the clear.

on most cars this $8-14 part can be replaced in a quarter hour or less, so the bill should not be that evil.

if you still have oil pressure light blinks, a mechanical gauge should be hooked up to diagnose any potential oil issues.

leadfoot4

A dumb question, but's it's very basic. Did you check the oil, just to make sure that the oil light isn't coming on for a valid reason?

trlyka

Like leadfoot4 says, did you check the oil? I use to work for Enterprise rent-a-car and the Ponticraps were always the first to flash their dash lights for all sorts of mysterious reasons. Also, the horns would stop working too. Get rid of it and go Japanese or German before the car drains your money and patients.

Good luck

nippononly

clueless83

thanks for all your opinions - yes i did check my oil - i check it every time i get gas - and now besides the oil light i'm back to my check engine light - i would love to get rid of it - but can't afford the payments on a different car combined with what i owe on this one - so i'm just gonna have to deal with it - thanks anyway

oldharry

That your friends recommend and have it diagnosed and repaired as soon as you can afford it. If you cannot afford to buy a newer car, you certainly don't want a six year old or older import.
Hint most foreign car lovers that buy German or Japanese AND properly maintain them keep them more than a few years.

An unmaintained import can show you what repair cost nightmares can be.

Harry

gladichecked

Sorry this is so long:

I have a 2000 Protege ES (automatic). I have had the car for almost 2 years now and it has been flawless...nothing but oil changes until now. I took a trip to Nashville, TN (from Raleigh, NC) and on the way back it was raining hard for about 2 hours straight. The rain let up and shortly after I had the cruise control, AC, rear defogger, radio, and headlights on. Occasionally my headlights got brighter for a few seconds and then back to normal. At the same time there was a slight surge (or hesitation?) in engine power. As I was almost back to Raleigh my battery light starting coming on, then going back off (and I felt the hesitation). I noticed this as I exited off of the highway onto the exit ramp. It was 3AM when I got in so I didn't do anything about it at the time. The next day I checked the belts and battery connections and everything looked fine. During the next week I made several short trips (non highway) and the problem did not re-occur.

Since I am moving to Nashville next week I took the car in to get this checked out before I make the 8+ hour drive. When I explained the symptoms over the phone to the service department they suspected the alternator. I brought the car in to the dealership today (wed) and the battery light came on as I was exiting the highway to go to the dealership (again with hesitation). This is the first time I had the car up to highway speed since my trip last week. They checked the car and said the alternator was fine. He also said he didn't have authorization to replace parts unless he could diagnois what the problem was (still under warranty). He said to pick up the car and if it happened again to bring it back in immediately. I told him this was not acceptable since I am moving and making the long drive to TN next week, and I want the problem solved. He agreed to have a mechanic take it on the road tomorrow to try and replicate the problem.

Does anyone have a clue as to what could be causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated. BTW, the car starts fine, so I don't think the battery is losing its charge (yet).

I posted this at Protege problems forum yesterday. To update, the dealer drove the car for 40+ miles at various speeds (including highway) and they couldn't replicate the problem. They drove with the A/C and other power using accessories on. I HAVE to drive this car 500+ miles to Nashville, TN next week, as I am moving there next week. I feel like I am being set up for disaster.

Mr_Shiftright

Tough spot but unless the alternator fails at the dealer you may have to wait until it fails entirely. That's how warranties work, so get your AAA card ready and sooner or later the problem will reveal itself. I think it is the alternator as well.

gladichecked

That's not the answer I wanted to hear...but unfortunately I think you are right. Personally, I think it is the voltage regulator, and I think the battery is overcharging. The Protege has a "unique" voltage regulator according to an article I read. According to the article, part of the regulator is in the alternator and part of it is in the "vehicle". Extended periods of high speed driving seems to bring on the symptoms. I am sure this will eventually cause the alternator to fail. I just hope it will hold out until I get my move to TN accomplished and get settled in. At least I now have proof that I brought the problem to their attention. Thanks for responding so quickly!

swschrad

remoting anything that deals with power is not part of my preferred method of engineering, it always becomes as much of a PITA to fix and more of a PITA to find the issues, and you get more intermittents.

Mr_Shiftright

Ah, didn't realize that the VR is partially external. Well, same issues apply anyway. It has to fail to be traceable.

hkvcndm

I have Pontiac Grand Am '97. I had to replace alternator third time in a 4 years. Every time mechanic told me (different ones) that everything else with my car and electric system is O.K. I have "life time guarantee for alternators" still I would prefer not to change it so frequently. Any ideas what is killing alternator so frequently?
Thanks for help.

swschrad

if the drive belt tension is too tight, you can kill the bearings in alternators... if the clearances are too tight to allow the shaft displacement, you can cut the windings or grind up the pole iron.

if the regulator is sour, or external and there are intermittents in the wiring to it, you can mess up internal circuitry in either one.

if the battery is a chunk'o'lead and no chemical action, high drain could be killing the diode trio or the brushes.

if you have a 600-watt ham transciever in there and you don't have the power leads well filtered, you could have harmonics running on the DC leads that are finding a resonant circuit in the alternator and blowing it.

lots of places to fail. which ones are going out? if the mechanics aren't telling you that, we can't assist. oh, and there could be a "lifetime limited warranty" on those alternators for the simple reason that they are being rebuilt from bad cores with inadequate or no inspection.

Mr_Shiftright

Where is he getting his alternators? Not all rebuilders are created equal.

grandbabe28

I want to know why GM makes such a popular car that can possibly kill me in an offset collision- I own a 99 se1 4door sedan w/47k on it now...I am a good driver but I am not comforted by these results on my car- I have a v6 engine which was not crashed in the tests so maybe this engine would do better. I'm going to be buying another car by next year and it will not be another grand am- I need a wagon now(just bought a house) and I really want a car that will make some effort to protect me in such an event. This crash result also affects my insurance which doesn't make me too happy. Anyone else care to comment on this?

bolivar

What's crash tests got to do with the subject of this topic, Alternator???????????