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Toyota Sienna Care & Maintenance



  • compcodercompcoder Posts: 5
    edited August 2010
    We didn't have an oil leak, but our 2011 Sienna LE is about to get a new Cam Shaft also. I reported an Engine Knock to the Dealer.
  • freebirdfreebird Posts: 77
    I have a '99 Sienna and am investigating installing an inline power steering filter. I do not see a real good place to install on the supply side. Anyone accomplished this yet? TIA
  • cevans123cevans123 Posts: 1
    Hello. We are having this same issue of stalling when starting with our Sienna. I know this was posted a while ago, but wondering if you remember the 'fix' you found on Edmunds that was faxed to the repair house? Was it cleaning the IAC valve?
  • mweinstemweinste Posts: 3
    I think so but I sort of remember the problem as stalling when driving as well as starting.
  • wills5wills5 Posts: 1
    If your Sienna won't idle when the engine is cold, then it is likely that the IAC valve is sticking.
    Loosen your aircleaner cover by popping out the clips on the fender side. Wiggle it out of the holds on the engine side. Take the 4 inch airduct off the end by loosening the screw clamp.
    Look down the duct with a flash light. You will see that the duct splits as it enters two throttle control units. The rear-most throttle control has a square hole in the bottom of it which you can see if you hold the duct straight and the light just right. Take a piece of plastic pipe or tubing with about a 3/8-1/2" inside diameter and stick it down to this square hole. Blow Gumout carburetor cleaner or a similar product through the tubing or pipe for about 3 seconds. Let it dry for about 30 minutes and repeat. Let it dry an hour and then reattach the airduct and the air cleaner cover. Start the car. It may take a few cranks to get any excess cleaner out of the system. Unless you have waited too long befor using this technique and thus damaged the IAC valve, this should solve the problem.
  • I got a code P1150 only 2000 Sienna LE, which I guess means Bank 2 Sensor 1. I am looking at Denso replacement part. It has upstream left (234-9007) and upstream right (234-9009). Is bank 2 sensor 1, upstream left, or right?

  • sgb2003sgb2003 Posts: 44
    edited December 2011
    I am getting confusing results when looking for P1150. In one place it said it is for bank 2 sensor 1, and in another place it said bank 1 sensor 2. Anyone know exactly which one it is supposed to be?

  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,983
    My 04 XLE with 70k is having a little bit of a hard start problem that has been diagnosed as the fuel pump. Shop is pushing me to replace the fuel pump assembly. Difference in cost between a fuel pump and fuel pump assembly is about $400. Can anyone offer insight into which is the way to go? How much more work is it to replace the pump only?

    Can anyone recommend and good online parts houses that I can source one from?
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,983
    My 04 XLE is in need of a fuel pump due to a hard start problem. The part is sold as an assembly, but also as just the pump. The mechanic really wants me to get the assembly, but it's about $200 more. What is the difference in labor with the two?

    Additionally, what is the process to replace it altogether? How many hours am I looking at?
  • Can anybody tell me which glove box the cabin air filter is behind in a 2011 sienna? There is an upper and lower. Thanks is advance.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Lower, here are pics that should help:

    Get an OEM filter. I bought a cheap FRAM replacement, and it had a lot fewer pleats. I won't make that mistake again.
  • shuedshued Posts: 107
    Hi, guys:
    I needs some help here for my friends 2004 Siena LE with 8 seats.
    This car is daily driven, without disconnecting battery or jump-start lately.
    Its SMOG inspection fails because of MIL/ODB II not ready.
    When I use a scanner, I find that there have two monitors not ready or
    1): O2 sensor 2): EVAP.
    1): There has no error code, (completed or pending).
    2): MIL (Check Engine Light) is NOT on.
    3): Five monitors (misfire, fuel, etc ) are completed.
    Driving looks noraml in any condition.

    Any comments? Thanks.
  • nate406nate406 Posts: 1
    You can get them at
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,585
    This is nasty; no error codes per se, but "not ready" is going to be beyond the shade-tree mechanic.
    Go to and ask around. With luck, someone has had this and can point you in the right direction.
    OBD-II is fantastic when it works, and it has proven very reliable, but when the system fails, you gots trouble.

    The googles and enthusiast's web sites are your friend.

    Good luck,
  • mikescmikesc Posts: 18
    Can anyone suggest a good wrench to remove the housing on a 2011 Sienna. I bought a $6 housing cap wrench at Autozone and it was just a little to big to get a grip. Do I just need to go to Toyota parts and get it?
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,585
    I'm not familiar with the layout on the new ones; we have an '03.
    But if it's halfway accessible, just get a strap wrench at the auto parts store... even my grocery store carries them.
    I don't k now why the factory puts them on as tightly as they do. I spin them on and take them off by hand on both our cars.
    Cheers -Mathias
  • I have a 2001 Toyota Sienna LE with ~115,000 miles. It has the check engine light ON and is now due for inspection. The codes being read are P0440, P0441 and P0446 pointing to evap problem. I have already taken it to a local mechanic who is saying that he has thoroughly checked the emissions system (using smoke test) and found no leakages or cracks anywhere. He has now asked me to go to the dealer as it requires special diagnostics/tools that he does not have. In the mechanic's words, "you are at the mercy of a toyota dealer now". Can someone please help and advice what I can do to take care of this problem. My inspection sticker has already expired. Also, when I mentioned these codes to a local Firestone service manager, he was aking me to replace three items:
    - Purge Valve
    - Canister
    - Canister Shutoff Valve
    Reading thru the information on the web, I am confused as to which valves are part of the canister and which are seperate from the canister. In other words, do I need to replace all valves seperately or are some of the values included as part of a new canister assembly. Thanks for your assistance.
  • dooper67dooper67 Posts: 26
    4 months ago during routine service, my Toyota dealer found the control arms/bushings to be separated. That was about $400 parts and $1000 labor. Today, a front spring broke, bending the control arms, and destroying a tire. Luckily, this was at slow speed and my wife could pull over safely. Would have been a different story on the expressway at 65 mph. This will be another $2400. So, these 2 repairs are almost 50% of the car's value. I didn't see this issue raised in any other forum discussions. Any thoughts on this issue? Does this sound like just bad luck, or possibly a faulty repair the first time? Should I go ahead with the repair and keep the car, or trade it in. BTW, our dealer has a very good reputation. Thanks.
  • steine13steine13 Posts: 2,585
    edited April 2013
    On a 2004, I had not heard anything of the sort ... We had the rubber bushing (insert?) on our 2003 separate as well, when the car was relatively new and barely out of warranty.
    Since I never went to the dealer for anything after the purchase, I didn't even try to get a warranty claim honored. I think it was a bad batch of control arms in 2003 -- consumer report's ratings show a black spot for that category for that year only. It would not be unthinkable that the part hasn't really changed for the redesign and the 'badness' carried into the next model year.

    The replacement part has been fine; i kept the originals to see if they can be rebuilt... they can... but you need to buy the part for the Avalon... I read that year's ago, can't give you a source.

    As far as the spring breaking: That should never happen, but I don't see how they could have caused it during the repair. Either way, you couldn't prove it.

    With a car that old -- any car, really -- you need to find a good independent mechanic to handle stuff for you. Develop a good relationship and some trust, and it'll work out for both of you.

    Cheers -Mathias
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Did she hit anything? Seems like it would take a lot of energy to break a spring.
  • Our 2009 Sienna lost all of its' refrigerant charge. Tech found a leak at front evaporator core with sniffer. Turns out Toyota's new design requires the replacement of a $1300 assembly, plus about $1000 in labor to tear dash out. Don't think I'll get any help from Toyota on this, but isn't it unreasonable to expect a $2300 repair on a 4 year old vehicle? This is our 4th and probably last Toyota. Any similar experiences??
  • waterwomynwaterwomyn Posts: 4
    Well, you should be upset about the failure in only 4 years, but you would pay the same if it was a Chevy or Dodge. Repair costs and parts prices are through the roof. The parts are expensive, but I would call around for a few other estimates from independents.
  • joew_01joew_01 Posts: 1

    We had the same problem with our 2001 Sienna and tried your fix. It works! A couple of hours after, it idled about 300 rpm. it took a day or so for the idle to stay up around 1100 rpm.

    A thousand thanks for posting this. We like our dealer & their service guys, but this was great.
  • zontar101zontar101 Posts: 2
    Had the same exact problem with my 2004 Sienna XLE. The control arm rubber around the metal middle completely came apart. We found out when we were experiencing a kind of jerking stop when backing up.

    This year had the same problem with the top motor mount; the rubber again essentially is failing.

    What I found was that a good, trusted auto body repair shop was able to do the repair at about 40% the cost of the dealer for the control arms.

    Good luck with your fix, hopefully it wont be too painful
  • dudleyrdudleyr Posts: 3,469
    135k miles on my 06 Sienna. Had to replace the fuel pump. Car would run fine then suddenly lose power while underway. Fixed by restarting, but would then happen again.

    Dealer kept it for a few days to duplicate and wound up replacing the fuel pump. $900 as it was in the fuel tank. They did not have one in stock as they say they never break - just my luck.

    I suppose I can't complain too much about the repair - other than the inconvenience as it happened while on vacation so we never made our destination.

    In nearly 8 years and 135k miles this is the second repair. First was a new actuator for the power door that I installed myself. So total repairs over 8 years is just over $1,000. I would rather have no repairs, but I suppose things could be much worse if a tranny went bad or head gasket blew.

    Of course my Accord has 165k miles and has a total of $105 in repairs (O2 Sensor), so my expectations are pretty high.
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,983
    Time to change the transmission fluid on my 04 Sienna FWD. Have read a few how to's and none mention the filter. Has anyone done this? My thinking is that it has to be folly to change the fluid and leave the old filter in, but what is the official word on this?
  • You should drain it, drop the pan and change the gasket and filter, check for damage, put back together and add fluid. Really should never just change the fluid, although that is what so-called transmission jiffy shops do now days.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,780
    Getting to three of the pan retaining bolts is made very difficult by a frame rail. I bought a wrench with what looks to be the right sweep to get in there, and will let you know when I get a chance to do the job if it works. The new filter and gasket are on the workbench. I also need to hit Toyota for some type WS (mine is an '08) tranny fluid.
  • jprocjproc Posts: 135
    My turn signals stopped working so I figured it was a blown fuse (first one in 13.5 years of ownership)Anyway got out the owners manual which told me fuse box was under the hood.Found it and then realized rest of manual might as well have been written in an extinct dialect as I couldn't figure out what fuse was supposed to do what-my manual appears to say that the turn signals are governed by a 7.5 amp fuse-alas I have no 7.5 amp fuses-it also appears to say that it is the one in the upper right hand corner-after 45 minites I managed to extract the fuse in that spot (gnarling up both my hands in the process) and replaced it and nothing happened.
    So if anyone has a sienna of that year and knows anything about the fuses HELP.
    Lastly my hoses appear cracked in spots-I'm guessing that means I should replace them but am hoping someone who knows better than I will tell me its normal for hoses to look like that
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