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Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Dust And Pollen Filter, Removing And Installing


    * Replacement interval for dust and pollen filter
    * The dust and pollen filter consists of 2 identical filter elements. Pay attention to correct installation position when installing (direction of flow is marked with arrows).
    * If necessary, clean plenum chamber after replacing dust and pollen filter. Pay particular attention to area beneath air intake unit.
    * Clean dust and pollen filter mounting slot in Heating and A/C unit before installing new filter.
    * There are different dust and pollen filter versions. The two filters have a different air resistance. Particular attention is therefore to be paid to correct version. Control characteristic for actuation of Fresh Air Blower V2 is adapted accordingly in control and display unit, Climatronic Control Module J255.
    * Filter with activated charcoal element (as integrated odor filter) is installed on vehicles with control and display unit, Climatronic Control Module J255 Parts List. Such vehicles are equipped with an Air Quality Sensor G238.



    * Depending on vehicle equipment, for certain versions or certain optional equipment (e.g. vehicles equipped with "Global Positioning System"), it may be necessary to remove the glove compartment (it is possible other specific control modules which are installed in this area, e.g. Special Purpose Vehicle Control Module J608 must also be removed).

    Depending on vehicle equipment, a foam insulation element may be installed (glued) in area of cover -on certain versions, remove it if necessary.

    * Remove cover - A - from lower trim of glove compartment - B -.

    NOTE: Cover - A - is held in position in lower trim of glove compartment - B - by way of 4 fasteners. These may be difficult to release and care is therefore to be taken to avoid damaging lower trim of glove compartment - B - on removal.

    * Protect floor covering with paper in area beneath slot for dust and pollen filter in Heating and A/C unit in front passengers footwell.

    Release fastener - B - and remove cover - A - for dust and pollen filter from Heating and A/C unit.

    * Remove first section of dust and pollen filter - A - from Heating and A/C unit.

    NOTE: 2 identical filter elements are installed in vertical arrangement in Heating and A/C unit.

    * Reach into slot of Heating and A/C unit - C - and pull second section of dust and pollen filter - B - downwards (at tab) and then out of air conditioner slot.


    * Remove leaves, dust and other contamination from mounting slot for dust and pollen filter of Heating and A/C unit - C - using commercially available vacuum cleaner, Suction Nozzle With Brush VAS 6288 (and corresponding hose).

    NOTE: Dust and other contamination may cling to Heating and A/C unit. A brush is attached to Suction Nozzle With Brush VAS 6288 for removing such contamination.

    * Insert first section - B - of dust and pollen filter into slot of Heating and A/C unit - C - and slide it into upper installation position, paying attention to direction of flow (arrows on filter - D - point towards evaporator).
    * If necessary, use steel rule for example to hold first section of dust and pollen filter - B - in upper installation position.
    * Slide second section of dust and pollen filter - A - (beneath first section - B - installed) into slot of Heating and A/C unit, paying attention to direction of flow (arrows on filter - D - point towards evaporator).

    * Check position of seal - C - in groove - D -.
    * Install cover - A -, paying attention to correct positioning in mount - E - and fastener - B -.
    * Re-install remaining components removed in reverse order.

    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------

    :cry: :cry: :cry:

    Maybe in real life it's easier than it looks in the book? Labor time at dealer is only .4 hours, part is $36 dollars, so at the dealer the job might be like $75??

    sorry I couldn't post all the diagrams but they aren't very clear anyway. ">

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  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Thanks for the post. The dealer is quoting me $84.00 per filter, so 168 for 2 filters, so I don't think those $'s are right. :)

    This at least tells me it is in the passenger side dash. I can figure it from there. :)

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Yeah well dealer is getting fat on that one:

    A6 Cabin Filter, Not The Gold-Plated One

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  • dfundfun Posts: 1
    I have a '96 A6 and it's my passenger window and sunroof that do it. They don't go 'up & down' but stop and reverse when closing. The Pass. window goes back 1/2 way down and the Sunroof opens back up all the way.

    P.S. This will never be fixed. They just don't know what causes it. OR, they know and the only solution is total system and window motor/assy replacement & they are not willing to do that!
  • chrisaudichrisaudi Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Audi A6. Recently, the Malfunction Indicator Light came on. I brought it down to AutoZone and they did a very basic scan for no charge. The guy told me that it was probably the ignition coils that was triggering the light to come on. He told me to bring it to a mechanic.

    So far, every mechanic I've talked to wants to charge me about $90 to have the issue diagnosed. I told them it may have something to do with the ignition coils. They said one ignition coil would cost around $350, and then figure in the labor (30 min - 1 hour). This just seems like a lot of money for a problem that I would not have noticed if it were not for the light to come on.

    Any suggestions? Is there somewhere that might fix this for cheaper?
  • wkbarthwkbarth Posts: 4
    My advice is to sell...I have been going through the same thing-starting with having to replace the ignition coils (for the second time) and am now replacing the torque converter and am being told to expect the electronics for the ABS to be next (a $1500 item). I have a 2002 A6-granted not the same "animal" as yours, but from what I'm being told, once it starts to go, run!
    I have found that some of the local shops that specialize in Audi and have the diagnostic machines will do a diagnosis gratis (but they are few and far between). I have had the car to 4 different shops, they all seem to say the same thing but vary in price from $1500 to $5000 for the torque converter-worth doing a little checking around on.
    The coils were a recall item in 2003 or 2004 on some models (you might want to check that out).
  • mbuckley2mbuckley2 Posts: 1
    Try Central Service Garage in Natick Center, Dave Sheehan. I have been going there for 15years. Very fair.
  • scottso1scottso1 Posts: 2
    I've just been informed that i need a passenger headlight assembly for 2005 A6 (the motor which turns the headlight has shorted out, so they say. It's come on and off in the past). OUCH!! $1,000!!!

    If it wasn't for the the annoying warning light each time I start the car telling me the Adaptive Light is not working, I would them to stick their $1,000. BTW I think that's just another MFG's scam to get you to have to fix the problem. Anyone know of way to turn the warning light off??

    Does anyone also know of a way or had any luck lowering the cost of getting this fixed. How about used units installed at a reliable body shop?


  • jcanton1jcanton1 Posts: 1
    My A6 Quattro (150k mileage) evidently overheated without any warning and coolant has invaded the pistons. The repair shop quote for just a head gasket replacement is almost as much as the value of the car and we wouldn't know if there is any other damage until the heads were off.

    I am thinking about doing the job myself, or at least opening it up to to see the extent of the damage. I once did a ring and valve job on an old GM engine but have never tried anything on a modern engine such as this.

    My intention would be to do a repair in a reasonable time frame. Am I overreaching here considering special tools, manuals or Audi engine expertise?

    By the way, it would be interesting to know if anyone has a comment about the problem: the engine had plenty of coolant (very well maintained), was cruising at 65 and it simply bogged down, I pulled over and it began to steam from the engine compartment. The temperature gauge did not rise until I was on the side of the road. The shop says you can have a leak, lose coolant and burn the engine faster than it can register a high temp. That sounds pretty scary for such a "technically advanced" car.
  • colonotecolonote Posts: 7
    We had a '99 A6. At about 51,000 miles my wife was driving into an intersection when the timing belt broke. Stopped the car dead in it's tracks. (she could have been killed).
    Pieces of the belt flew into the engine causing $2000 worth of damage. With the dealers help Audi covered the expense although technically it was out of warranty.
    I wouldn't take any chances. Haven't given up on Audi - we now own an '08 A6.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Well if you burn up the coolant in the combustion chamber, the temperature sensors have nothing to measure except steam. This would be the case with any car. The sensor needs to immerse itself in coolant to read correctly. So sudden coolant loss would probably be undetectable in any car.

    As for doing the work yourself, I think if you prepared yourself by buying a FACTORY repair shop manual and acquiring the tools you'll need beforehand, you might take a crack at it. As you say, basically your car is now "totalled" anyway, so what have you got to lose?

    However, you will have to take the cylinder heads to a machine shop and have them checked for warpage---this is essentially. And you MUST replace or boil out the radiator---also mandatory. If the heads need reconditioning, that could start to get expensive.

    I'd say your probability of success is dependent on the level of your preparation prior to loosening the first bolt.

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  • ipod_nanoipod_nano Posts: 14
    Hi all,

    Finally made the plunge and purchased a CPO 05 A6 w/ 45k miles on it. While I have to admit that I am an avid BMW fan, I thought it would be nice to explore the other side and so far like it a lot.

    That said, I have a few questions:

    1- 05's include audicare, is there anything I should expect after 45k that is covered(unfortunately I did not receive a service manual, just owners + MMI)
    2- It seems as if every 5-7 or so cold-starts it seems VERY rough but then smooth's itself out after 30 seconds or so. Anyone experience this type of start?
    3-Checked the oil and it seemed a bit dark. Dealer said it's policy to change oil for every CPO(during inspection/cert) but does audi oil have a different color(sounds like a stupid ques.)
    4-Anyone change their own oil on a C6 A6? Any tips? how to remove the skid/plate cover & where to access oil filter.

    Thanx in advance.
  • I have a 99 A6 Quattro sedan. Lately, when the car is idling, I notice the volt meter kind of 'going crazy' when I have a couple of devices running at the same time (A/C, stereo, headlights, etc). It bounces between 12 and 15 volts. When the car is driving along, it seems to be fine. Any idea where to start? Battery? Alternator? Voltage regulator?

    Thanks in advance.
  • I have a 2000 A6 Automatic that is stuck in 3rd. All the transmission gears light up in black on red rather than red on black on nthe dash so the colors are reversed.

  • My 96 A6 Quatro was doing the same and it was because the batery was to small, put a new with the right zise and problem fixed, this happened specially when I used the A/C.
  • MY 95 A6 QUATTRO, did some thing like it when I changed some fuses and they could not figured out at the transmission place, then I disconnected the (-) terminal of the battery for a couple of minutes and when I connected it back on again it reset ed some thing and the car started shifting normally again, I tried this about 3 times and it worked the same all 3 times, I have not had any problem again!!!
  • mairloumairlou Posts: 1
    I am new to this website and awhile ago I put a post on about questions/problems I now have with my audi;I think I listed it wrong since not showing up. When I put the car in drive and go it feels as if my emergency brake is on or something in the back wheels won't let me go forward without jerking. Someone told me that I may need to change or add transmission fluid which may be correct since we cannot locate the place to put the fluid (lack of dipstick).Does anyone have any ideas on this problem I am having? Also, where can I get a maintenance book for my vehicle.I hope someone can help me out since I would like to know is it work putting money into or not.
  • I have a 1999 Audi A6 and I was told by my Audi mechanic that the transmission fluid/filter can only be changed by removing the transmission casing and adding fluid. You should be able to find a maintenance book at a site called or on ebay.
  • I have a 1999 Audi A6 and the sunroof and windows don't operate. Has anyone had this problem and if so what can I do to fix it?
  • I have a 2005 A6 and the factory 3 of the 4 tires that came with the car developed bubbles in the side walls.Has anyone else had this problem?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    This is often referred to as "pinch shock" and is probably due to impact damage. Sometimes, or so I've been told, it can also be caused by a shifting belt in the tire.

    I would contact Continental about this problem. I don't think it is terribly dangerous but one never knows. You might get some kind of pro-rated settlement out of the deal if you handle it right. The dealer will probably just blow you off and refer you to the tire manufacturer, although a competent dealer will at least help you in the process. You might also check to see if your insurance covers this as some kind of road hazard incident. However, generally it is not such a great idea to make a claim under $1,500 or so.

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  • bigjer2bigjer2 Posts: 4
    Hi ,
    My Audi , 2006 A6 3.2 Quattro is going off lease this December. (under 30,000 miles) I absolutely LOVE this car and have had ZERO problems with it. The issue at hand is ; Would it be a wise choice to buy this vehicle for the residual of around $24,000? It will have a full year left on the Audi (all-inclusive) Warranty. I have mixed feelings because of some horror stories I read here about high maintenance and repair costs. I was considering a extended warranty for 5 yrs and 85,000 miles (bumper to bumper) but they run around $3000+.

    Can anyone enlighten me ?
  • zorozoro Posts: 5
    Well I have a 2005 A6 that purchased off lease and I am happy with the decision. Make sure you work through your dealer to get the free maintenance extended and get the overall warranty extended. It will add a few grand to the purchase price but it mitigates the risk of a major repair expense down the road. Supposedly the extended maintenance agreement through audi leasing is different than what the dealer can offer so make sure you speak to your dealer. Also, check the market price versus the residual price. the market is softer and you may have an opportunity to get a better price.
  • loggieloggie Posts: 31
    try to negotiate the buyout price in december.

    audi just lowered the msrp on all remaining 2008 A6's by $5000 because of the just announced "slightly" redesigned A6 for 2009. check out the current pricing for 2006 A6 CPO vehicles for sale today that are similarly configured with low mileage, then check the price again in december, it can only go down.
  • I just brought my "dream" car a month ago with 81,000 miles. About two weeks it suddenly shut down while I was in a parking deck, thank God. The MIL and ESP lights came on and the car sputtered/died/revved up on its own while in traffic for the next 30 minutes. Suddenly the lights went off and the car functioned beautifully. Two weeks later, the same problem. My local Audi dealer couldn't find the problem, but PepBoys and a local Audi specialist found the mass airflow sensor and camshaft position sensor faulty.

    I've seen where others have had the same problem. Does ANYONE know what it could possibly be before I sink money into it? Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Well if an Audi specialist found those trouble codes, what's the issue with proceeding to correct the problem? Do you not trust the diagnosis?

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  • My A6 has been sitting in my yard unused for 2 years. I started it yesterday, it runs OK but a little rough. I can't get the gears shift to get out of park. I pressed on the brake and still can't get it out of park. It feels locked and there is no give to the lever.
    I wonder if there is an override someplace because the battery was dead for so long and the new battery may have kicked in some protector????
    All the dealers or repair shops answer the same way. """" Bring the car in"""""".
    Any ideas before the repairshop gets it?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Brake safety switch under the pedal . See if you have brake lights. If not, that's it for sure. ( or the fuse that governs it).

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  • Thanks for the response. I have brake lights. I looked under the brake pedal and couldn't find any switches along the pedal. Where should I look???? Is there a fuse specific to the park lever?? If so whiuch one would it be?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,604
    Okay, Plan B :P

    Might be the Shift Lock Solenoid. I don't know if you want to tackle this without a book. the solenoid looks in a photo like a small white thing under the shifter/console when you remove it.

    You might consult your owner's manual for the location of a small hole to temporarily insert a screwdriver or key to release the shift lever. Most cars have this somewhere.

    5 Speed Automatic 01V

    Shift Lock Solenoid Switch, removing and installing


    * Remove shift mechanism.
    * Remove stop buffer from cable lever.
    * Shift to Tiptronic position and remove frame.
    * Move selector lever to "2".
    * Disengage lever for lock cable by lifting it from its mounting and remove from mounting bracket.
    * Press out bolt for locking pawl using drift.
    * Remove shift lock solenoid switch together with locking pawl upward.


    * Move selector lever to "2".
    * Install shift lock solenoid switch together with locking pawl from above into mounting bracket.
    * Carefully drive in bolt for locking pawl.
    * Check engagement of locking pawl in "P" and "N" of selector lever using a screwdriver.
    * Insert locking pawl into mounting bracket and lock it by feel in both mountings.
    * Check locking function of locking pawl: Locking pawl must engage in shift lever position "P" and must lock the selector lever.
    * Install frame on mounting bracket (ribbed side must face up) and install stop buffer in cable lever.
    * Install shift mechanism.

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