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Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair



  • Thanks,
    That worked. I was afraid I was going to break something.

    Dave :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,840
    good for you!

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  • Hi I have a 1996 Audi A6 that I had jut bought and I observed that the transmission fluid (Hydrolic fluid) in the resivore tank is sitting just below the low mark on the tank. As soon as I take off even after letting it warm up for about 10 minutes it still shifts out of first gear in the high RPMS. But then after about driving a block or so it shifts normal. Is there anyone that has the same problem or has any insight on the problem? Thanks Joe
  • Is there anything that you can tell me about my question
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,840
    I'm confused. Is this a manual or automatic transmission you are describing here?

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  • It is an automatic 2.8 liter
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,840
    If the fluid level is low, you might experience slippage.

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  • I have a couple of other questions if you dont mind. I guess I did not recieve a manual with the car when I purchased it. I cant figure out how to set the analog clock on the dash board. And also I cant figure out how to make the yellow circle indicator on the cnter of the guage console turn off. The guy told me that he replaced the brake pads but it still remains on. Also every time I Push the brake pad down I here a noise by the automatic shifter stick, it sounds like something is hitting in there. And finally Every time I start the car there are uumbers that blink and say in ..2 miles right below where it says the total miles on the car it blinks a couple of times and then when I push the break it turns off. Is there a way to clear some of these things up
  • Also do you think it might be possible that maybe the trans fluid and the filter need to be changed I dont when the last time it was changed. Is there a way of testing the fluid or a certain color that it should be. All that I know is that the Hydrolic fluid for these cars is $25 each quart [non-permissible content removed].
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,840
    Yeah you need an owner's manual all right. It might take weeks to google this kind of thing, but only one click to buy a manual!

    did your (ahem) mechanic replace the brake pad wear sensors? If not, he owes you.

    You might try:



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  • To adjust your clock there should be a knob on the left side of the dash (just like the one to reset the trip odo. but on the left) Push in and twist clockwise the clock should start to adjust. As for the brake pad warning light, I believe you need to buy pads that are compatible with the sensor. Google brake pad warning light and you should be able to find a way to reset this light. I think you again use the two knobs on the dash. Good luck.
  • :confuse: I only get cold air from my heater. Replaced the AC module and am in the process of replacing the heater control valve. Does the system have to be bled? Any way to test the vacuum used to control the valve? Any suggestions would be great. Its starting to get cold and I need to solve this problem.
  • hi I have a 1996 A6 that has 130000 miles on it. A couple of days ago On a cold moarning I started the car up and it began to shake. I checked under the hood and observed the engine shaking. I drove it for a couple of days like that then the Check engine light came on. I had it hooked uop to a computer. They said that cylinder # 2
    was miss firing . About an hour after that I was driving the car car and it just stopped shaking and the car was running fine. The engine light then shut off later on that day. Maybe I just need a tune up I have no Idea when the last one was done because I just bought the car from a used car dealer and they said that the car has had 2 previous owners. Is there anyone that has had the same problems as me or know what the problem might be ?
  • Hi do you have aluminum alloy wheels, I just replaced my old tires that were on my car because my car was shaking like the tires were not ballanced. So I purchased new tires but the car still shakes a little bit in the steering wheel but more in the gas pedal. What is skaking the most on you car ? I have a very good mechanic that is very informational on the Audi's
  • I recently bought a 2003 Audi A6 2.7T with 54,000 miles. About a week later the coolant light came on (so I filled it). Less than a week after that the light came on again so I checked it. It was empty just from driving to and from work in the city for a week. I filled it again and later that day the check engine light came on followed by the "Service Now" light. There were no leaks on the ground under the car. Made an appointment at the German Import garage by my house but the soonest they could look at it was 2 days later. I tried to drive it as little as possible and always checked the coolant level before starting it. The mechanic told me that when the coolant is pumping through the engine, it was getting to the turbos and the turbos were not taking it in and recycling it through the engine. Basically the coolant is hitting a "wall" (the turbos) and stopping. They said the turbos are shot from the coolant leaking on them and to replace them with used turbos(if they can find them on an engine that matches mine) will cost at an estimated $10,000 to pull the engine, replace the turbos, and 30 hours of labor. I brought the car back home but do not want to drive it and risk further damage or a breakdown. It just sits here because I do not have $10,000 to pay for it on top of my car loan payments. Other garages I have spoken to say they have never seen turbos go out like that and that it could be the water pump (I was quoted $2000 for that repair) and that the garage is trying to rip me off with the turbos. Anyone have a problem like this? Let me know. The temp gauge stays in the middle, but I know that doesn't necessarily mean my engine is not overheating. When I popped the hood after driving it home, there was steam pouring out of it and smelled like burnt coolant. Thanks so much.
  • lou24lou24 Posts: 5
    hi everyone i have no power in xmradio i have checked all the fuses they all seam to be good. i lights on everything else except the radio controls all other componets are working fine..please help

    p.s. my car is a 2005 audi A6
    thank you ,louis
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,840
    You have to take an Audi to someone trained specifically on Audis. Someone who fixes Porsches or Mercedes may know nothing about Audis.

    The story you got sounds bizarre. I'd certainly recommend having the car competently tested somewhere else. You are either leaking coolant or burning it. As for the turbos "burning out", your car, in that case, would run like a dog, if at all. If you are in California I may be able to direct you to a competent shop.

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  • Get this I when to put new tires on the car and found out that there is less than 15 percent of ware left on them. I notified the dealer because he had told me that he had put new ones on before I baught the car. The only thing that I could get out of him was that If i purchased the pads he would throw them on. I guess I though that was a good deal till i found out they cost about $80.00.
  • dm1212dm1212 Posts: 59
    Hi guys,
    I know this is a little off topic but I need imediate help.
    Today I was about to park, didn't think the car was still moving and I threw my 05 A6 into park. I heard the transmission grinding, was there any damage done? I was going less then 5MPH.

    And on that Porsche, I like it, although it somewhat looks like an avant.
  • lou24lou24 Posts: 5
    Hi gaillaw, i have a 2005 audiA6 and i have the same problem with mmi there is no POWER.. :mad: i was wondering if you got the problem fixed before i take it to the dailer and get the same answer you got. they tell me there is a fuse behind the radio,did the dailer check that fuse? please let me know if the problem was resolved and what was the cause.

    thank you..lou24
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,840
    That was your park pawl protesting, but if you didn't break it off (in other words, if it still locks into park) then you got away with it THIS TIME :shades:

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  • I have owned the same car and it is really a terrible vehicle to own and operate w/o a warranty. These cars are among the most complicated to repair of all vehicles and the shops that understand this car are few and far between. Parts are prohibitively expensive, unbelievably proprietary, and hard to order outside the retail dealer network.

    After almost 9 years of Audi ownership experience, you really don't want to drive one w/o warranty coverage. These are cars which should be leased for 3 years and just simply given back to the dealer. Buying a 2.7T straight up was a financial mistake in my opinion. You should have a 30 day warranty if purchased from a dealer, maybe they will make some allowance for the turbo replacement?

    Watch your fluid your fluid your fluid levels! I checked the coolant, oil, brake fluid, power steering, windshield washer fluids almost on a daily basis. Letting the coolant run low for any reason is death to the turbos. Again, if purchased within 30 days from a dealer, I believe they have some responsibility towards the repair of this incredibly hard to repair vehicle.
  • Diggs - That doesn't sound good. I'm not an expert but it sounds a lot like the problem I had earlier this year. My low coolant light kept coming on but there was no sign of leakage. In my case it WAS NOT the turbos. I had to have an auxiliary coolant pump replaced. This pump continues to pump coolant on hot days after the engine is turned off. It was the end of summer and I was in for the 105K service. Since the service manager couldn't reach me by phone they didn't do the repair and I had to take it back. I don't drive it every day so it wasn't a problem. NOT suggesting you should drive it. Cost of repair was about $600 or $800 parts and labor. I have a 2001 2.7T w/6-speed. Always serviced at the Audi dealer where I bought it. It will be eight years old in March. Love this car. Good luck.
  • I am very confused and I hope that someone out there has some good advice for me. Here is my issue....I brought my 2002 Audi A6 to the dealer several weeks ago b/c my engine light was on. They said I had two problems. (1) A coolant sensor had to be problem and (2) I needed a new torque could be done for $2000. GULP!!!!

    I initially declined to have the torque converted replaced b/c other than the engine light being on, the car runs perfectly. I brought the car to another location and they too said that the codes being produced by the computer stated I also needed a new torque converter. Soon after I brought the car to the second dealer, the engine light went off. Since then (about 3 - 4 weeks), the light hasn't come back on and the car still runs perfectly. Absolutely no problems.

    The dealer told me that the car may run for the next 50k miles w/o a problem or I could blow my entire transmission as soon as I pull off the lot...and that would cost $5k to fix.

    Well, I finally made an appt to have it fixed. This is a painful fix as my engine light is off and the car runs perfectly. Also, the car is only worth 10 - 11k. I'm assuming both dealers wouldn't lie to me and that the computer tells them there is a problem.

    Any idea what I should do? And, if I truly had a problem, wouldn't my car say so? Shouldn't I be noticing at least some problem with the car?

    HELP...before I spend $2000 to fix nothing
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,840
    Can you tell us what the code # was?

    If it was DTC 17125/P0741, then that's a failure of the torque converter internal oil seal and yeah, that's bad news.

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  • nailed it: P0741! (My service order says Fault in Torque Converter Clutch Circuit: P0741). Bad news, huh?

    I have been on a few other boards and the feedback ranges from do nothing to get it fixed tomorrow....sigh. I talked to a someone who I think is very least he seems to be....and he said that since my engine light hasn't been on for weeks and the car is running perfectly, that I shouldn't worry about it until I notice any wrong with the car. In short, the car just isn't going to drop the transmission tomorrow...I will notice it over time.

    I just don't know what to is hard to fix something that isn't showing signs of being broken.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,840
    Is this a 2.7 turbo?

    I just spoke with my Audi experts and they said:

    "If it's a 2.7 Turbo with that fault code, start saving for a torque converter. If it's not, then clear the codes and sit tight. As long as it isn't slipping or failing to go into gear properly, it might just be a "ghost" message that won't come back. It could go either way here"

    so there you go.

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  • Thank you for the quick reply. is not a 2.7T. It is a 3.0 (2002 A6). I appreciate the advice and I will sit tight. That seems to be the consensus of the Audi experts that don't stand to make a quick $2k off me!!!


  • Hi Diggs

    I must agree with some of the other posters, that the first machanic does not appear to know what he is talking about. I would strongly suggest taking the car to an Audi dealership to diagnose the problem, if you cannot find an independent shop that specialises in Audis.

    As for the turbos... if the turbos were bad you would have experienced one or more of the following... chirping sounds during hard acceleration (when the turbos are at full boost and speed), white or blue exhaust smoke - and lots of it. If you are not having any of these issues your turbos are fine. Someone mentioned sluggish-ness, which might not always mean the turbos are bad, but be an indicator of boost leaks, i.e. leaks in the turbo charge system.

    On a side note... Keep in mind is that replacing the turbos on these cars will be a very expensive repair. It's an Audi so parts are twice as expensive right off the bat. In order to replace the turbos the engine has to be pulled out of the car. There are two ways this is usually done, either from the front or by dropping it out the bottom. Either way, the mechanic needs to know his stuff and labour will be expensive. (my car was in the shop for 5 days - Audi dealership). You can buy a new set of stock turbos for around $1000-$1500, so if you can find someone to do the work it will probably cost around $5000.

    As someone else mentioned here... ALWAYS keep and eye on your fluids. Turbos that are starving for oil (lubricates and cools) will die quickly. Do your oil changes regularly. ALWAYS use synthetic oil. NEVER drive the car hard and simply stop and turn off the engine - if you drove it hard and the oil tempreture is higher than normal, let the car idle for a few minutes so the temp goes down, or make sure you drive it nice and easy for the last couple of miles before you get to your destination.

    Here are a two links that might be helpful to you and some other posters regarding the Audi S4. The S4 has the exact same engine as the A6 so much of the preventative maintenance stuff applies to the A6. pdf

    There are several shop listed at the bottom of this site, by state, so hopefully some of these are close to you...

    It is unfortunate that these awesome cars get such a bad rap, but all they need is a little more attention and care than naturally aspirated models, and they are very reliable. Certainly fun to drive!

    I hope that helps.

  • Your post is right on except the last part. I have owned Audis (100 & A62.7T) for almost 9 years and especially here in snowy, cold Minnesota, the twin turbo just isn't made for our weather. Too many sensors combined with twin turbo issues does not make a reliable vehicle.

    Wouldn't spend $2000.00 to get your A6 fixed, try to get another car. It is just one thing after another with these cars.

    Do agree about the fun to drive part and the Audi interiors are the best in the business. Just make sure you lease and return, never own and go bankrupt over repairs!
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