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Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair



  • 1.) oil frequently?
    2.) transmission oil change....ever done?
    3.) obvious leaks
    4.) belts
    5.) all 6 fluid levels...oil,trans, coolant, power steering, windshield wash, battery
    6.) brakes..brake rotors
    7.) exhaust components
    8.) tires...matching ..wear on one side?
    9.) spare tire..proper size..ever used?
    10.) loose steering...front end components
    11.) accident damage...matching paint from doors to body
    12.) check all functions..brake, headlights, turnsignal, wipers, heater, air cond.
  • Thanks JKAUDIA6
    I will definitely look into that.
  • I have audi A6 2002. 2 years ago there was an engine problem and I did repair it at the dealer splitting 6000 cost with Audi America. 42 months later Ignition coil light came and I got that repaired for 1800. Problem with Ignition coil surfaced again this time the dealer said it is the gasket and I ended up replacing the Gasket and all cylinders for 3800.
    Last week white smoke came out of the exaust and problem was traced to coolant leak and now they tell me the engine which was repaired two years ago has a crack and need replacement
    Called Audi USA. They brushed me off by say thay they will give me 2000 credit towards new car.
    Any one heard of a spontaneous crack in A6 engine .
    I have only 65000 miles on the car.
  • YES! I have an Audi 2002 A6 2.8L, engine ATQ. I was driving and and the coolant light came on, I checked the coolant and it was infact empty, so I immediately replaced the coolant and continued to drive another 2 miles. The light came on again, I checked the coolant and it was again empty. I took the car to my mechanic less than 5 miles away. He didn't have time to look at car, so I left it over night. The next morning he presserized the coolant system and spotted a spraying leak, deep in the engine block but couldn't get a good look unless he pulled the engine. I paid the $700 to have the engine pulled. He found 2 cracks in the engine block. He recommended a used engine and to reinstall. About $5000. I refused to pay and called the bank. The banks insurance covered the work under my catastrophic insurance policy that I was paying on embedded in the loan. I was without a car for 6 months. I had 57000 miles on the car when all of that happened last summer. I only drive my car on the weekends with my family. My kids walk to school, and I walk to work everyday. I just wanted a nice car for weekend travel. I loved my Audi, it's been my dream car since I was a kid. 5 days before XMAS, I had to install an entire replacement on the front-end suspension system. The automatic windows quit working, the interior lights needed work, the coolant system needed to have a new cap replaced. Nice little $2000 XMAS gift. Frankly, I am scared to drive my car long distances. My catalytic converters have failed. I will need to get those replaced. Audi of North America were jerks the entire time. I don't know what to do. Like I said, its said because I really love my Audi. I take really good care of it, and clean and wash it religiously.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    I've got an '04 A6 Quattro...has anyone had an issue with the ABS & ESP light coming on while the car is moving? Usually, once I stop and cut the car off and turn it back on...the lights don't come on again. Well...for a while anyway, but it seems like everything resets once the car is cut off and back on again.

    What could possibly cause this to happen?
  • Greetings allmet33:
    Electronics and Electrical are tough to diagnose over the internet.
    If you are going to repair it yourself then here is an address for a web page run by Audi.https://www/
    Read through the intro page because they don't work for free.
    By entering a valid vehicle identification number (VIN), you will be able to view all important vehicle data, such as model, model year, engine code etc. You can now call up the necessary "Repair and service information" for this data. Please note that you can only view the content of the documents with a valid flat-rate.

    I can tell you up front if the problem is Central control unit (CEU) related replacement is the only option. If ABS or ESP sensors
    are the problem it's a get down dirty job and you will need a lift, unless you enjoy crawling around on the ground. It's also possible that you have a loose wire connector at the Dashboard/LED screen or cold soldier joint on printed circuit board in the same area. If your ABS & ESP do not electronically interrupt the ABS or ESP functions while driving my guess would be a short circuit causing the lights to come on.

    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • Hi, I just read your post, I have a 2002 A6 avant quatro with 3.0L
    which I just found has a crack in the engine block in # 6 cylinder, leaking coolant into the cylinder. only 55k miles. this is very disappointing, checking with audi
    if it is a casting problem. No overheating.
  • Yes, and how. I finally traded in my 2002 A6 a month ago because of the extent of repairs needed. The car had 120k miles and I couldn't see putting any more money into it, since the warranty expired at 100k miles. The check engine light has been on for the past 10,000 miles or so. The dealer told me it was a faulty part/sensor within the torque converter, which is part of the emissions system. It didn't seem to affect performance at all -- at least not that I could tell. The straw that broke the camel's back was my last trip to the dealer for regular service -- in addition to the torque converter issue, they told me that both catalytic converters needed to be replaced. The total estimate for all repairs was $4,800!! I said "no thanks" and immediately began shopping around for a new car.

    This car also burned at least 1 quart of oil in between oil changes (done religiously at each 5k mile interval). The gas tank had to be replaced (leaking) at about 80k miles. I replaced the timing belt at about 105k miles -- pretty expensive repair, including the usual water pump replacement, etc.

    Because my emissions test was coming due in a couple months, and it wouldn't pass without the repairs, I ended up trading it in and buying a new 2010 Honda Pilot Touring 4WD. I shopped the Audi around to all local Honda dealers to see who would give me the highest trade -- I disclosed the check engine light issue to all dealers. I ended up taking $5,000 for it on trade, which I thought was a fair deal, given the $ it was going to take to get it registered / through emissions.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Thanks for the info.

    Here's another one for you. Just recently my turn signals stopped blinking when activated. Here's the kicker...the work when I turn on the hazard lights and when I lock/unlock the car with the remote. So...the lights all work and they even flash still. My thinking is a flasher relay or an issue with the turn signal switch itself. As of right now...if I activate the turn signal, the lights come on solid to the side I'm indicating my turn, no blinking. :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,595
    I think 120K is a good time to bail on an out of warranty Audi that is exhibiting serious issues. Good decision IMO.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    edited February 2010
    Hey Allmet33,
    Have we talked before about something else on your car?
    Turn signal, sounds like your on the right track.
    Relay first, may be located in the left side dash area,not sure.
    Check your fuse listing see if it's fused.
    Turn signal Switch is more difficult because of "Air Bags"
    Dangerous work if you don't know what your doing.
    Could cause you personal injury when removing the the Steering wheel.
    Not to mention Multifunctional controls if you have them.
    Emergency flashers, remote functions activate different circuits for
    the same lights,IE. they bypass the turn signal circuit, that's why they
    still work.
    If your a "due it your self''er" then go to ( Erwin web page.
    Audi has an hourly rate, get the graphics and Tech sheets on how to switch out
    the turn signal assembly for model. You'll need your VID, Model, Year, ETC........
    Good Luck
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • Greetings Pilotguy2:

    I'd dido that which Mr.Shift-right (Host) said.
    Those pre 2005 Audi's had a number of issues.
    I had similar problems with a 1990 BMW 5 Series and it bleed me to death.
    When you start replacing a major component more than one time within
    a relatively short period of time, it is a bug that won't go away.
    Enjoy your Honda Pilot 4WD.
    Happy Trails
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Yes...I posted earlier about my ABS and TCS lights coming on randomly, but turning off when the car is re-started. I'll have a diagnostic run when I take it in for an oil change. I may even ask them about the turn signal as it is frustrating.

    Thank you so much for your insight and knowledge, much appreciated.

  • I should learn from you guys! I have a 2002 A6 with only 56k miles and I am pulling my hair out! Hindsight is great, huh? I still remember the day I chose the A6 over the GS300. Since that decision, I average repair bills over 1500 - 2000 per year. At 49k miles, the torque converter went. Luckily we caught it before it took out my transmission. Just last month I had to replace the power steering pump. Did I mention the hole in the 'quattro system' from 18 months ago? Sitting in the garage next to my A6 is my wife's RX300 with 100k miles. Nearly double the miles and not one thing, outside of normal maintenance, has gone wrong with the car.

    The good news is the car starts every morning and blasts through the snow better than most pick ups and SUV's. The control of the vehicle in adverse conditions is simply amazing. I suppose $2k a year in repairs sure beats a $400 or $500 monthly car payment.
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    edited February 2010
    Greetings Mr.Kealbert (Audi Woes),
    56k_miles in seven years is not allot of driving. If your spending that much on repairs
    per year, get the equity you still have in that 02_A6 and put it in something more reliable. With only 56K miles you should get a better trade_in offer because the dealer that resell's that car will use the "Low Mileage" as a selling point. I can see the sign now as I'm driving buy the used car lot. "Low Mileage" Audi A6, Germany Engineered to Last. OK, I'm being a bit truthful, they might leave out the last part.
    Lexus, has been beating the pants off the German Car Manufacture for years, but you don't see many on the road in Germany.
    That being said, Audi does build a great car NOW, POST 2004.
    I just purchased a 05_A6 Quattro, One owner, 35K_miles. Hope I don't have to eat my words when I have it serviced.
    Should you decide to trade in "RESEARCH,RESEARCH,RESEARCH.
    Good luck.
    Best Regards
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • Greetings Mr. [Brooksman]
    Ref.Your A6 Quattro Transmission problem.
    I read every thread on this, I'm just amazed.
    Have things been resolved?
    Best Regards
  • Greetings,
    Wow, enough problems to choke a horse.
    Do you have a question?
    Or! If I understand your post correctly you purchased a car with a Rebuild engine (ATQ). Certainly it must be out of warranty after eight years.
    Honestly, you need to shake loose of that "Dream CAR".
    Your putting more in it than it's worth. In Germany, Classic Cars are classified by
    age starting with 25 Years. At thirty years they become Antics.
    A 2005, or 06, A6 or newer would be four or five years old as of 2010, has a much better reliability rating from independent auto reviewers and based on what your spending now would be less to operate than your current "Week End Car".
    Hope this is of some help.
  • dwpcdwpc Posts: 159
    After 88K miles and 9 years, I've had it with my 01 A6 2.7T. I started having significant problems immediately after the warranty expired. I've put about $4K into non-wear item repairs. Last month, $800 for oxygen sensors and when I got it back, the mechanic told me the tie rod ends are shot and I have a leaking transmission seal. Not to mention the outrageous valve cover and cam seal oil seepage causing smoke to waft up from the front wheel wells but too expensive to replace, the embarrassing bad LED screen right in the middle of the instrument panel, the rear window's spontaneous water leak, or the blown speaker.

    I used to be upset that the Audi resale was so low; now I'll just be happy to be rid of it. Seems the used market anticipates Audi repair costs. Its been a marvelous car to drive in terms of performance and comfort, but in my 40+ years of owning cars, I've never had a car that needed so many costly repairs nor seen a car deteriorate so soon and so consistently. I had planned to drive this car until the wheels fell off. Little did I know how quickly that comes for an Audi.
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    Greetings DWPC,
    Well I don't see any questions so I guess I'll just say, your doing the right thing.

    Having said that, I've been doing this Forum for two maybe three months now
    and most of the Audi problems are pre2004 models. No I don't work for Audi.

    I'm taken back buy the prices U.S.Audi customers are paying for parts.
    For example, an Oxygen sensor for $800 must be with labor, but even that's way out of line unless of course the sensor in question is a-fixed to the "CAT Converter exhaust unit.
    On a more constructive basis, let me just say the following:
    a. In particular Oxygen sensors are wear items on most cars today, even BMW.
    Why? Because even under ideal conditions it will go bad. But the wrong gasoline, wrong motor oil will also cause early sensor retirement, Ref: The Car Bible Web page or Auto MD are good reference points.
    b. Seals should have been done with regular major service intervals.
    c. The Ball joint ends of tie rods are a wear item, but bad bug on pre-2004 Audi's.
    I changed mine three times on 1990 5 series BMW along with front & rear crankshaft seal over 18 year period. That's 3x6=18
    That LED Control panel your referring to is a typical first generation (Electronic) problem shared not only buy Audi but also BMW and perhaps others.

    I understand your frustration. And in closing will just add a couple of points.
    Don't put the sizzle before the steak when buying a car.
    Research ever independent report you can get about the mechanical reliability, service cost, customer review...... of a particular car, but forget the hip.
    Every new Model has AC,HP,Torque, Auto Trans, Leather, Audio, Telephone & Navigation & 0-60 Sec. in one second. But if it falls apart under your feet after the warranty ends you won't remember any of those extras.
    And finally, never buy new unless your leasing for business and can deduct from your Inc.Taxes. Low mileage Certified model of your choice based on Research. And finally, I'm more convinced than ever a "Buyer Representative" is the best way to saving money. But you must still do the pre-purchase research.
    Finally, it's tax time, check the instruction book for 2009 and see what the tax advantages are for purchasing an Eco/Green vehicle;ie, rebates, right offs......

    Uncle Sam is trying to help.
    Hope this has been of some help.
    Best Regards
    JKAudiA6/05 Quattro Tiptronic.
  • dwpcdwpc Posts: 159
    The $800 was for two oxy sensors installed at the dealer, and that was $300 less than the quote from the indie tech whom I no longer use. I only replaced them because I can't unload the car with the CE light glaring.
  • billodbillod Posts: 31
    Hello Folks,
    Last month I bought 2006 A6 FWD w/cvt. The car only had 16K miles and was serviced regularly at the original dealership. The 25K service was done when the car had only 9300 miles on the odometer. I spoke to the service mgr at the dealership and was advised that the car never had any svc issues. The Carfax checks out great. Now for my question. The cvt tranny is certainly different. It's not bad, it's just different. On the hwy it's smooth and gets great mileage, 31-33 mpg. From slow starts it feels a little "rubbery" and seems ackward. BUT, everything I have read, including talking to two different dealership svc mgrs, indicates that this is normal. This is my 3rd A6, but the first with a CVT. Is there any special maintenance required (beyond the Book requirements) and can the tranny hold up over the long term. I usually don't keep a car much more than 3 years or 40-50K miles. What do you guys think about this 2006 A6 with the CVT? Please advise. Thanks for your time and interest.
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    Hi Bill,
    I'm providing a link to a Wikipedia article on CVT (continues Variable Transmission) from Audi AG.
    Please take a few minutes to read it.
    When you get to the part about which Audi A6 models this transmission will work
    with, please note what it says about Quattro's.
    For your information "FWD" is different than " All Wheel drive" the Audi A6 Quattro
    having the later.
    Is your A6 a Turbo-Diesel, Turbo-Gasoline, 3.2 liter V6 or 4.2 liter V8?
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • billodbillod Posts: 31
    Hello JK,
    My 2006 A6 has the basic 3.2 liter gas engine with the CVT tranny. I have been using Shell High Octane gasoline because I didn't know if the previous owner, who only drove the car 16K miles over 4 years, used high octane or a lower grade fuel. I wanted to be sure the engine got some good quality gas in case there was any sludge building up on the valves. As I said in my previous post, the car runs great, especially on the highway. Off the line and occasionally when changing from Drive to Reverse, there is some brief "slippage" or spooling up. I'm just hoping what I've been told is "normal" really is normal. When it does it's spooling up and slips into gear, can that slipping/slamming do any damage. Let me know. Thanks,
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    Re: For JKAudiA6 [billod]
    I just bought an A6 C6 Platform 2005 Quattro with a tiptronic Transmission.
    What I've read about the two types of transmissions is limited but what I did note is
    the following:
    1. The CVT (Continues Velocity Trans) is not offered in the quattro A6. It either comes with a Tiptronic.with shift paddles or the standard version with the gear shift in the middle consoled and no paddles. It shifts, feels similar to a CVT but there is a fundamental difference internally between the two and how they work. The primary difference being the CVT and it's Central Control unit (ECU) adapts to driver habit and road conditions and choose the appropriate gear ratios, within predetermined range, without the traditional shifting feel of a conventional Transmision. Conversely, the Tiptronic, when in automatic mode shifts up or down based primarily on application of pressure applied to the gas pedal. You should have three different modes, Automatic, Tiptronic mode (+/-) and Sports mode (S) which requires pressing the button on the gear shift handle.

    As for your question about "Slipping/slamming" when changing from Drive to Reverse it depends. When you first start the engine in the morning, the "Cold Start" choke increases engine RPM's. Under that condition, when changing gears
    (Park to Reverse or drive) there may be a slight bump feel in the drive train. This condition is normal. If this same condition occurs after the engine has reach "Normal Operation" temperature", then I would say not normal. This may be caused because the engine idle (RPM's) is to high.
    Normal RPM at operational Temp's is between 600 to 800 RPM's, give or take.
    The other possibility could be a U-joint or velocity joint problem in the drive train assembly, but at that mileage I don't think so.
    As for spooling up in drive, during initial acceleration, I've noticed that as well. It also happens when releasing the brake and accelerating at the same time. I tend to think it's a Vacuum problem, a vacuum transfer lag. But to be honest, I don't know it the transmission has components which are vacuum dependent.

    Finally, your driving with Premium Gas, 95 Octane or higher is what Audi recommends. But sludge is primarily caused by running inexpensive motor Oil, or a mineral based oil as opposed to a Full Synthetic. Volkswagen and Audi both are constantly testing and upgrading there list of recommended oils for there vehicles.
    I just parked my BMW after 287000 kilometers due to a blown head gasket. What I found when I pulled the Exhaust manifold was Black as Black Sludge can be in the Exhaust ports only. I mention that because I had used some Oil additives to keep the valves clean, thinking it would look just like the pictures in the advertisement, I was surprised. Here is a web address which explains clearly "The story behind the story" on Motor Oil, additives...........

    Well, I hope this has been of some help regarding your questions & comments.
    Enjoy your new ride.
    Best regards
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Well...the other night, my wife was driving and she managed to find the one pot hole on the street that was major and hit it. As much as it jarred our teeth and had us wondering if the tire & wheel were damanged (or not)...the turn signals started working again. I'm assuming that some connection had worked loose or something and the jarring jolt the car took hitting the pot hole must have worked it back on. I'll still have them take a look on the next service visit.
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    Greetings, "Akebono Mike (allmet33)

    What can I say. We, my wife and me, had a BMW for 20 years, one car.
    She liked to drive it because it was small and she could see over the engine hood.
    Now we've got the A6, so I raised the drivers seat so she can she the road.
    After this winter in Germany, we've got more Pot holes than Golfers have putters.
    Yes we talked about that "Turn Signal" problem before. Well at least you know it's not a fuse, :blush: One of those problems with newer cars that have air bags in the steering wheel, you can't just pull the horn button off and remove the wheel without
    first deactivating the "AIRBAG". It could knock your teeth out, and that's allot different than running over a pot hole, my friend.
    Don't forget to mention the Relay to the service adviser when you go. It's one of those rectangular elongated enclosed boxes that clicks when the "Turn Signals" Work. Not sure where they are on the A6, my BMW had them under the rear seat
    but that was 1990.

    Just a short side note: I've been searching the web for Akebono pads for A6 Quattro
    but they are no where to be found in Germany. One place in the U.S. but most don't have them for my model, got any suggestions???

    Just watched a video on the "NEW Quattro Sports" differential setup on the New A6. Man that's some kind of Technical wonder. Check it out it's on the or de web page under ahhhh, ahhhhh, New stuff (Audi TV) I think.
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557

    The two places that I know of that have the Akebono pads online are Parts Geek & Auto Warehouse. Another one that's a bit pricier is Place For Brakes

    Which particular model A6 do you have?

    It's that the turn signals are working again, the doggone CD player is on the fritz now. The radio plays, but the CD changer is fully loaded and it doesn't recognize a single disc in it. Now I have an excuse to finally pull the bugger out and put the aftermarket unit in.

    I'll check out and see what they are talkin about too. :shades:
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    Hey Allmet33,
    Thanks for the tip on Akebono pads, I'll check them out.
    I'm driving a July 2004/05 model A6 quattro 3.2 L.V6 with tiptronic.

    1st. Have you listened to those CD's, that now don't play, before??
    If they previously worked then read on.
    As for CD/Radio, I don't remember which year or model your Audi is but IF temZ110397781796QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment?hash=item19b438- 7724
    This one is located in England but they are also available in the U.S.
    I'm not affiliated with them in anyway. Just info I'm passing along.
    Your other option would be Edmund' (See Tips & Service) in the menu bar of this page.
    Hope this helps.
    Good luck
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557

    No problem & good luck. I think you're A6 is slightly newer than mine as I have the A6 Quattro 3.0L V-6 w/ Tiptronic.

    As far as the CD's go...I'm not totally worried about it. The radio works and currently I have a wireless FM modulator hooked up so I can play my MP3 player. It would probably end up costing more to fix the OEM radio than it would to replace it with a good aftermarket unit anyways. I have one that I was planning on putting in there to begin with, now it just seems I'll be doing it earlier than anticiapted. In terms of losing the CD's...they were all burned CD's no originals are lost.

    Not sure what info you have, but the CD player is not located in the glove box. The unit I have has the 6-disc in-dash changer. It's funny because all this time it worked fine. However, the day after my wife hit the it won't. The changer is full (6 discs), but when you press the CD button, after a few seconds...the screen says "No CD". If you press the load button, it says slots are full, but if you try to eject...nothing happens. Like I said before, it's not a big loss...I just get to get in there and upgrade the sound system like I had planned to begin with. :shades:

    Thanks for the info are certainly a cornicopia of information my friend!!! :D
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    Well, thanks for the compliment, a pleasant surprise & enjoy conversing with you as well.
    Your certainly on the wright track with MP3 interface, larger capacity, same audio quality and much easier to expand the MP3 Library interfacing with a PC/Mac.
    Just one last point and I think this issue is covered. As an after thought; If all the lights are working on that CD changer in the Dash, power is there, the problem, as your most recent note explains, sounds like a mis-aligned laser, caused by the pot hole. For future references, I had this problem on a home Stereo unit from that Japanese, Company, (AHHHHH, Walkman). The CD player had power but could not orientate across the CD when "INDEXING" the individual tracks.
    I would be surprised if Audi did not have and exchange program, I know BMW has one. Your old unit plus a fee arrangement, (Rebuilt). Last but not least, there should be a release mechanism on that CD Changer similar to CD's in a PC. A small hole where you can, Gently push a paper clip in to, the CD drawer will then pop out, allowing you to pull it the remain distance to remove one or more CD's.
    Either the dealer or you can do this when the unit is removed. That is, the hole may or may not be visible from the passenger perspective. I could be on the back or bottom panel of the CD housing.
    Thanks again for the "PAD" info. I'll be getting to that shortly.
    Have a good one.
    Best regards
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
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