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Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair



  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557

    I'm pretty sure that the hard jolt from the pot hole was probably enough to cause the CD laser to mis-align and not function properly. As stated before...all the other functions on the unit work properly. As far as retreiving the CD's from the unit, I'll probably have to disassemble it a good bit to get them. The unit doesn't have a CD drawer that comes out, it's a slot load unit unfortunately.

    It's really not a big deal because the whole plan was to replace the unit with an aftermarket unit anyway so I can upgrade the entire sound system to what I want and have the sonic control of the music I desire and currently lack with the OEM unit.

    No problem on the pads either, I also found out that Akebono pads are sold through The Tire Rack
  • we have an audi a6 2008 awd, fully loaded... our check engine light has come on 3 times and we only have 7500 miles on the car... interesting it seems to come on when its due for scheduled maintenance... but our local dealership never can tell us why the light was on.... it's becoming very annoying.. anyone else with this issue?
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    Greetings Chicagotiger

    Your not fare from my home town of Milwaukee, WI.

    OK, I'm going to keep this short as I usually get long winded.

    There are over 500 pages of Fault codes for Audi and it's being updated continually.
    If you have a Service ticket from you dealer, find the "Fault Codes" on the service ticket. Then go to this web page ( and find the fault code, click on it and see what it says. If you don't have a service ticket for this particular problem or a fault code, Ask yourself why not.. :confuse:
    An Audi with just 7500 miles has not even reached the first service interval.
    This of course depends on which service interval program you've purchased.
    See your Service Booklet for the different service & mileage intervals.
    If your getting service notifications from the on-board MMI unit in the dash have the dealer reset the ECU/Service interval notification to reflect the proper service interval based on your current mileage. Check the service booklet that should be with your car, to see when the last prior service was completed by an Audi Dealership, not an independent, as they may have not of had the correct Diagnostic unit to reset the ECU/Service interval correctly, if at all.

    As for the "Check Engine light" find that Fault CODE.
    I'm sorry, but with 500 pages of fault codes, even and educated guess would most likely be wrong.
    Now, if you like knowing what's up with your Vehicle, then get a "code Scanner" for your particular Vehicle. Here is one web address: The other being the one I gave you up top.
    These toys are to keep you informed and the dealers honest.
    Good Luck.
    Best Regards
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • jwrednwjwrednw Posts: 4
    I have a 2006 A6 and my transmission is beginning to slip. I inquired with a service tech about transmissions and she said they run fairly consistently around 80k miles. Has anyone had issues with their transmission? Wondering if it's time to trade-in and buy a new car. Thanks!
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77

    What transmission did you say you had, I missed that part?????
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • jwrednwjwrednw Posts: 4

    Have a 3.2 quattro tiptronic.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Wait a minute...the service tech told you the transmission is fairly consistent for a mere 80k miles??? :surprise: I would be appalled to hear that personally. I've had a Hyundai Sonata I put 105k miles on with no tranny problems and a current Azera with just over 81k miles...again, no tranny issues. For Audi to be to technologically superior to a company like Hyundai...I would be scared to hear "fairly consistent for 80k miles" from an Audi service Tech.

    On the flip side, I've also got an '04 Audi A6 Quattro (with tiptronic) and it's just now reaching the 80k mile mark. So far, no issues with it either. I am leery of the fact that everyone Audi is saying you don't service the tiptronic transmissions. So of course there's a bit of apprehension.

    How many miles do you currently have on your '06?
  • a6200532a6200532 Posts: 1
    Newbie who loves his "new" used A6 but bought a lemon with 63,000 miles.
    I have the following group of problems that happen in cold weather only:
    Brake light and warning beep comes on when driving.....happened 3 times.
    Check engine light came one once.
    Power to CD changer would not go off after engine stopped.
    Radio would not play..happened once.

    Is this one major central computer problem triggered by cold (below zero cold)? :lemon:
  • fonefixerfonefixer Posts: 247
    Audis--like every other car need a transmission fluid drain/refill every 30,000 miles or so. I used to drive a "00 A6 2.7T and the dealer said the fluid in the tiptronic transmission is LIFETIME. Then went and consulted with an experienced Audi independent and he claims that w/o fluid changes, he is regularly seeing tranny failures at the 70,000 mile+ mark because of worn out fluid. I don't see how any fluid could be LIFETIME especially in a transmission where the environment gets hot. I bought the A6 2.7T new and here is a list of things that went wrong until sold at 100,000 miles:

    1.) air conditioning recharge
    2.) heater motor bearing
    3.)4 sets of front brake rotors
    4.)alarm system malfunction
    5.) driver's door lock fell apart
    6.) driver/passenger window frame collapsed inside door-twice
    7.) Secondary cooling fan burnout
    8.) leaking valve gaskets
    9.) leaking cam gaskets
    10.) twin turbo burnout at 99,000 miles
    11.) paint peel on lower section of car

    This is besides normal maintenance items such as battery, tires, wiper blades.
    Would have went bankrupt on this car w/o the extended warranty. As far as I'm concerned, most of the things on this list should have lasted to 150,000 miles+ considering that the car was well cared for and serviced according to factory schedules along with mobil1 oil changes every 5,000 miles. These are lease type cars only--lease for 3 years under full warranty and then send back to dealer!
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    Fonefixer...I am very skeptical in regards to the lifetime fluid. Currently my A6 Quattro has just over 81k miles and no tranny issues as of yet. The only issue I've encountered was my signal lights had stopped blinking, but a jarring hit via pothole seems to have corrected that issue. However, a new matter that has made itself known...CV joint noise. I'm just hoping that this repair will not be extremely costly.
  • dml11788dml11788 Posts: 1
    I have an '01 audi 2.7t engine and its just over 100K miles. I was taking a trip and as i was on the highway going uphill i the car started slowing down and i had to push harder on the pedal. What seemed to be the problem when i went to the mechanic is the oil pump was broken so even when i put oil in the car the censors were telling me theres no oil! The fix is around $1000-1500, which is a bit much for me to spend and i was wondering if anyone had any advice on what I could do with the car or know people who like to work on cars in the Los Angeles area that would be able to fix it? Basically I'm looking for any advice from anyone that would know what to do in my situation because I can't drive it due to the noise that it makes when i do drive but I need to fix this problem so that I can drive! :(
  • dwpcdwpc Posts: 159
    It sounds like the computer sensed low oil level or low oil pressure and put you in "limp" mode. Did you get the Audi fault code from the mechanic? Was it actually the oil pump or a bad sensor? Is the repair estimate from a dealer or an independent?

    You're looking a possible $1500 repair on a car worth maybe $6500 after the repair. How's the car's general condition? Is it worth keeping? If the quote is from a dealer, you can certainly find a lower cost job from an indie, but stay with someone who's experienced with the A6 and has Audi troubleshooting software. Hopefully, its a sensor. Opening the bottom of the 2.7T engine shouldn't be left to an amateur.
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    Oh No!
    It's electrical again.
    Dear Newbie: Don't give up just yet, these are not serious problems.
    First and easiest solution:
    When you say brake light you mean the "Indicator light for brake pads"????
    If that's correct, the check the brake pads, warning sensors on the pads for loose or short circuit.
    The warning beep, I had twice this winter, not sure what it means but I'm going in for service next week, I'll get and answer.
    Check Engine light can be checked if you have an Audi Dealer do a scan of the error codes, there should be one indicating and error for that particular function/warning light.
    Power to CD: Check the CD/audio settings in your Multimedia management Interface (MMI).
    If these problems are only during cold weather then it might be a cold soldier joint.
    Finally! If you purchased your Used A6 from an Audi dealer, did you not get a limited warranty???? Or is it a "Certified Used" vehicle. In any case check your contract for "Warranty coverage". I bought a one owner 2004/05 A6 with 35 miles on it and a "Audi Car Life Warranty" was included. It covers All Electrical items, all mechanical except wear parts like "Brake pads, A/C recharging, bearings,........
    You sound like a candidate for a Diagnostic Scanner.
    Here is an address: temZ110397781796QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment?hash=item19b438- 7724
    This one is in England but they are in the states as well.
    I've got allot on my plate at the moment but I'll try to get back to next week on that beep.
    Best of luck
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    A broken Oil pump does not happen very often if at all. And if it did, you would not drive more than a couple of miles before the engine would (A.Overheat, B. Freeze) completely. Did you check the "Oil Level" with the Dip Stick?
    You may want to reconsider this vehicle as being outside your budgetary constraints.
    I just love these "sounds like diagnostic answers", they remind me of the "Wild West Days" of early America, when "salesman, in covered wagons, traveled the prairies selling "Magic TONICS" to all who would listen.
    Sorry, I just could not resist. Your problem is serious in that it's sound like a keep or don't keep question, based on the value of your Vehicle.
    Proceed with Caution.
    More help available but try to be more specific.
    JKAudiA6 :shades: :shades:
  • fonefixerfonefixer Posts: 247
    Suggest having the twin turbos checked for viability. IF the turbos were oil starved for any length of time, probably not worth going any further with the repair. Also would agree that the car's market value is about $6500 if in good operating condition. Probably would go for about $3000 ~$3500 to a German car salvage yard or person who specializes in fixing German cars. These cars depreciate about 25% the first year and about 10% a year after that.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,853
    I'm not getting a good feeling about this diagnosis. If you have friends in the SF Bay area and want to flatbed the car up there for maybe $300 bucks, I can recommend an Audi repair shop that actually knows what they're doing on Audis.

    If you lost your oil pump and you drove the car because you didn't get enough warning, then that engine is toast, I"m sorry but that's reality.

    On the other hand, maybe you broke a belt tensioner or some such---there's all kinds of possibilities and we have very little information from you.

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  • kirby2010kirby2010 Posts: 136
    edited April 2010
    Interesting reading. It's been a while since I posted anything though. My 2001 A-6 2.7T w/6-speed is nine years old now. Bought it new. I have 106K miles on it. In nine years I've had only five things go wrong and three were fixed in conjunction with scheduled service: digital display was replaced, interlock switch that required a handful of ignition key turns when I started the car, and a cracked rail on the passenger side front window. All those were covered under warranty. Since then I replaced the auxiliary coolant pump and a pair of clamps on the exhaust. Overall, not too bad. And considering this is MA and the roads are heavily salted the clamps on the exhaust can only be attributed to the environment. To be honest I don't consider maintenance on brakes an issue. If you use your transmission to slow the car your brakes will last longer. And although I don't like replacing tie rods the roads here are so bad and these cars are not designed for it. Most days I drive a 4Runner.

    No questions these cars need to be taken care of. I drive my car about four or five times a month (more in the summer becuase I keep my clubs in the trunk). And when I do take the Audi I drive as fast as I can get away with. But I don't race down the on-ramp if the oil gauge isn't up to temperature. And I don't drive less than 10 miles ever - no quick runs to the convenience store. I always use Sunoco premium (yes gas quality makes a difference). I do all scheduled maintenance and have the oil changed at the dealer every 5K miles or six months. It stays in the garage when I'm not driving it.

    This is a great car. But it needs to be taken care of. I'm thinking about another A6. I like the 6-speed though. There are a couple sedans out there with 6-speeds but no quattro.
  • I must be a lucky one. I have a 2004 A6 AVANT Quattro 3.0 Engine.

    I have only had to replace the Fuel Pump today 4/15/10. Other than that this car runs awesomely. Repairs for the fuel pump today $610.59. I had it repaired at the Audi dealer. It could have been cheaper if I repaired it at an Import repair shop, but I trust Audi to take care of my care, despite the cost.

    I hope that this is not a sign of things to come. If so I have had 98K trouble free miles.
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    Greetings A6 Fans,
    I was on the net last night and found a Specification list, (source unknown) as well as
    Package and optional equipment offered by Audi, A6 2005 Quattro FSI.
    This should help those of you who are not sure what current package you may or may not have. It's a PDF file.

    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • robo10robo10 Posts: 2
    Hi i am seriously considering buying a used 2001 Audi A6 2.8 from Japan. I intend to buy it online so i have only the dealers word for it. However, after reading many posts, i am getting quite concerned about the numerous problems that people seem to have even with newer models. Any advice on whether i should go for it? Cheers!!
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 11,041
    My biggest concern for you is doing a long-distance transaction, which is not always safe. I will let others answer the reliability questions, but I would ask, why are you buying a car that you have not seen, and how did you locate this vehicle?


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  • kirby2010kirby2010 Posts: 136
    These cars are pretty sophisticated - and as I mentioned previously, they need to be taken care of. When I bought my 2001 I was looking for a 6-speed manual. There weren't a lot around and the first dealer I went to had one as a demo. I drove it but I wouldn't consider buying it because many people were test drive the 6-speed just to see what it could do. I would extend than line of thinking to the following recommendation: Don't buy a used A-6 from a private party EVER, no matter how old (or young) it is. And only buy a used A-6 from a dealer if it's a recent model that was sold and serviced at that dealership and comes with an extended warranty.
  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    Hi Robo10:
    Well I just read your post and the three answers that followed, all of which made good points & questions asked should have been enough to cause you to pause.

    Here is the Audi USA page and link to Certified Pre-owned Audi's in the USA.
    I would read through that first before doing what your considering. Then I would do a search through the Audi Web page and locate all the pre-owned vehicles of your liking and budget.
    As for that Japanese owned Audi, the shipping on a 2001Audi will cost you about 25% of the asking prices of the car depending on where you live in the US. If your located near a major port;IE, Charleston SC> New York, Houston,Los Angeles, San Francisco, Etc. then you have land based delivery from port of entry,Insurance, Import duties, Equipment modifications to meet US Vehicle standards (Parts plus Labor), Exhaust emission standards, and maybe even sales tax. Then of course you would want to know what the car is worth before you buy it.
    But it should be obvious at this point that what it's going to cost you to buy the car, ship it,modify and certify the car for US standards is more that it's worth.

    As for the reliability of the Pre July 2004 audi's I would stay away based on what I've read here about systemic problems with those models. A 2005 or newer would be a better choice if it's in your budget. That being the case an Audi is going to cost you for servicing. A warranty is the only way to protect yourself from a major component failure. And with the price of gasoline going up on regular basis, the only way to drive an Audi these days is with liguid propain Gas ( LPG) system installed. LPG is cheaper but it uses slightly more fuel than when run on gasoline but below a certain temperature Approx.-10Centigrade, it will not start.
    So I guess you really need to do more research before jumping on the Audi Wagon from Japan.

    Good Luck.
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,853
    edited April 2010
    I would just buy one here. This should not be a hard car to find in the USA.

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  • robo10robo10 Posts: 2
    Dear All.

    Thank you sooo much for the advice. I am now much more wiser and i have definately abandoned this idea. Thanks guys.
  • did you have to go as far as filing a lemon law suit. we are have repeated problems for over a year with no resolution
  • Hey jkaudi6, sorry about being MIA for a while, it was a long winter. I wanted to say thanks for the words of encouragement and give you an update. I changed the alternator and have been on point since. I can honestly say we haven't had any electrical problems whatsoever. I'm very happy with it now. Now that the summer is here, I want to focus on other things. I just had a big problem with the front strut bearing the other night, it totally let go. I had replaced all of the suspension parts with sport components and had my mechanic do the work: lower ball joints, tie rod ends, H & R sport springs, Koni adjustable strut inserts, and any bearings or bushings. Unfortunately, I tried to have the car aligned and the retards down st my local Firestone kept tellinig me I needed to get camber adjusters installed because they couldn't do anything until then. Well needless to say i was pissed and haven't been back. That was about a year or so ago.I had crappy tires back then and didn't really concern myself too much with it cuz the car tracked ok but the steering wheel was canted to the left. I put snow tires on it in Nov. and it seemed to be ok so i went with it. Last week I decided enough is enough and went about adjusting the alignment myself. I got it to track straight and seemed to be ok. My wife drove back and forth to work and said she heard a noise so i took it to work. The front wheel was pulsing when braking so i figured it was a sticky caliper warped the rotor. I planned to replace the rotors and rebuild the calipers in the next couple of weeks. Anyway that night i noticed the front driver wheel had severe neg camber and popped the hood. To my dismay, the top of the strut shaft was protruding through the bearing so far it put a dimple in the hood. I had to rig it to get it home. I ordered the parts that morning and they should be hear this weekend. I plan to swap everything myself this time so I know its done. I'm annoyed because i was able to change the camber just fine by myself. The top of the strut was on the inner most spot on the holes and i simply pulled it and after only had a couple of *s neg camber which is perfectly acceptable. German cars normally have more neg camber anyway. I just wanted the car to track straight.
    Anyway, I need help with 2 things: i need the brake bleeding order for both A6 & S6 (with hydralic clutch), and do you have a good photo or detailed drawing of the upper strut assembly for correct reassembly?? Any and all help is greatly appreciated. I hope to hear from you soon.
  • habuhabu Posts: 52
    My 2006 A6 Avant with 33,500 miles issued a yellow warning light this Saturday for an electrical malfunction. The car then started missing intermittently, especially when under a load such as going uphill. The car was loaded with 4 adults and 6 bags of clothing for a 4 day vacation. I called the local dealer and the scv writer told me it was probably a failing coil pack and to drive it in. They just got a recall notice for this problem anbd the symptoms sounded identical. He felt the car would make the drive and not hurt the engine. I drove 90 highly stressful miles hoping the car would not die. When running on level roads it was fine and we could do 60mph without stumbling. Hills made the car unhappy. The mileage remained the same as when we started at 29mpg. We arrived at the dealership (where I bought the car 4 years ago) and she was fixed in 1 hour for no cost under the recall program which has not yet been issued for the 2006 models but should be soon. The car is out of warranty but the transaction was hassle free. Good experience.
  • allmet33allmet33 Posts: 3,557
    edited May 2010

    I mentioned the issue with the turn signal not working in my A6, come to find was the hazard light switch that was causing the issue. Total charged to get fixed...$130.

    Well...recently, took the car in to get a CV joint looked at and found out both had to be replaced. get both CV joints replaced, oil change, new spark plugs & faulty brake light switch replaced cost me just under $1200. I found this great place in Springfield, VA. Dealer wanted approx. $500 just to replace one CV joint.

    The place I took the car also said they can service the transmission, which will run me about $240 which isn't bad because to get my Azera's transmission serviced ran me about $225. The next big move I have to make on the A6...timing belt. With the car creeping up on 85K miles, it needs to get done soon. As of right now, the car is purring like a kitten and running like cheetah!

    I also had the issue with the check engine light flashing and the car running rough (missing), come to find ignition coil was bad and heard about the recall. Funny thing is...the day after I found out about the recall, I got the letter in the mail. Took it to Audi and they took care of it with no issue with no problems.

    Have a great day!!!
  • dwpcdwpc Posts: 159
    I just sold my 01 2.7T after almost 10 years and will miss driving it but not the high cost of maintaining it. Best driving car I've ever had, but also the most expensive to keep running, by far, after the warranty. When the numerous top end oil seeps caused blue smoke to rise from under the hood at stop lights, that was it for me...the final insult. Well, no...the final insult was the horrendous resale value for a car that cost nearly $50K in 2001. A well maintained 01 Accord is worth as much.
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