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Audi A6 Maintenance and Repair



  • My husband changed timing belt,water pump,some engine cover gaskets and the thermostat in our 2000 A6 and everything woks fine except that now when the car is idling (temp.gauge is in the middle-warm), we get no warm air coming from the vents.Once the RPM are rewed up the heat stars coming.The system is filled with coolant and we have been bleeding the system as well.It seems like the middle of the car vents are blowing cold air even when the RPM-s are up.Anybody has any good ideas how to fix this next issue ,sure would be appreciated.Thanks Ann
  • Greetings dwenger & Ann!
    I'm assuming you driving a 2000 A6 2.7 Liter, Twin Turbo powered car.
    If you have a Can Bus II Diagnostic device the first thing you should do is
    get a Diagnostic read out of your error codes regarding the coolant system.
    If you don't have that diagnostic device you could buy one at Target,Wal Mart or Pep Boy's should one of those be in your area. You could get the read out from
    an Audi Dealer or reputable independent Audi Shop.
    Another option is as follows:
    a. Using Google type in the following: SSP 198 Audi A6 2000
    In the search listing you should find an SSP listing for Audi A6 SSP 198, Click and download and open that Acrobat file.
    b. On pages 9,10 & 18 are diagrams of the cooling system of the 2.7 liter twin Turbo engine. Read through those pages and try try to figure out which of those valves that you did not replace might be the problem.
    c. Assuming that the Heater worked prior to changing out the Thermostat and your husband changed it, it could be that it was put in backwards. I don't need to tell him what that means. If that's not your engine get the Engine code off the engine block it's usually a "Three letter Code".
    Here is another Link for engine codes Small Audi Engines. t_they_mean.html
    d. A final option would be go to this web page:
    They have a section for Do it your self (DIY) people, look in the "How To Repair"section
    or they have other services available.
    Hope this has been some help and good luck.
    JKAudiA6 :sick:
  • ok, so i have a 2002 audi a6 2.7t...awesome looking car but has troubles. i found out 1,000 later that the bushings were bad on the whole front end. so, got all new arms and everything. it straightened the front tires back out to the normal position, but i am dealing with this next issue. Whenever i make sharp right hand turns (only right hand), there is a noise that sounds like something is grabbing. i had this problem before i replaced the whole front end control arms. so i got underneath the front end and noticed that two arms were rubbing against each other. clearly visible, i even went as far to color the scratched area and then check it later to see if it was scratched, and it was. so, i thought that was the problem, because of the bad bushings and how it kicked the tires out. the more i researched the problem and noise by means of online and going o mechanic shops around here, im finding out that it has something to do with the ABS electronic system or something. when you go o make right hand sharp turn, the car jerks and goes, then jerks and goes until you straighten it out, then it goes back to normal. like i said, this happens only when i make right hand turns. its loud, annoying, and im totally lost as to what the diagnosis is for this. the place who can look at it cant do so until next friday. the dude at the place who looked at it today said its something electronic. he had the vehicle computer hooked up to his diagnosis tool and cleared the code(s) but it still came on. i know the black rod behind the driver wheel has or might have something to do with it. can anyone help please? im lost, stressed, broke but still love the car and feel its worth it to fix.
  • Hi jhamilton32,
    You did the correct thing in replacing the front ball joints & other needed parts as this is a reoccurring problem. Hope you had an alignment done as well.
    Three things you need to do;
    Brake pads and rotors front
    Wheel alignment front
    Power Steering system
    Jack up the front end of the car, remove both front tires and with a flash light compare the brake pads on the left side with the right side.If the right side has more wear (less pad thickness) or the rotor show signs of
    unusual wear, groves, scratches.
    Second point check the power steering system; I will have to research this and get back to you. if it is electronically controlled steering this could also be a problem. Electronically controlled Power steering controls two function; resistance based on the speed of the car;I.e.,The faster you drive the more resistance, the slower you drive the easier the steering becomes.
    Check the Power steering fluid level, top it of with the Audi recommended fluid type, that's in your manual if you have one.
    Finally if your A6 is Quattro (All wheel drive (AWD)) this could be a mechanical problem, but will take the easier stuff first.
    The ABS issue is Brake related but other than unusual brake wear you most likely will not see the problem because it's electronically controlled by sensors on each wheel and a central control unit called an ECU. What you need for this is the error code that your shop guy cleared with that diagnostic device.
    If you have a power steering pump, check the belt that drives it and the tensioner for that belt, if the belt is loose or the tensioner is not turning smoothly the steering may be binding.
    I will get back to you as soon as I find the information that might help.
    Keep in mind that your car was not designed for "Do it yourself Mechanics".
    the extent of what you can do on your car is directly related to having the correct devices to diagnose the problem, and one of those things is $$$$$$$.
    If this is a brake problem, (ABS) you should leave this to a professional shop or Audi Dealer as it's a safety issue. The purpose of the information I'm passing on to provide you enough knowledge that should you go to a repair shop you can converse and hopefully understand that what they are telling is correct or not.
    Best Regards
    JKAudiA6 :sick: PS the Black Wheel behind the driver wheel?????????
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    This also sounds like a possible issue with the AWD.

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  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    edited September 2011
    Back again jhamilton32 !
    Well no luck finding a document for the suspension but while reading I forgot the ESP system. ESP is an electronic traction control which regulates vehicle handling through the braking system. ESP and ABS are controlled by the same ECU unit along with engine management. In critical circumstances these systems work together to keep the vehicle on the road: Wheel spin, Aquaplaning in wet weather, or tight turns where the rear end might brake loose.
    If you have Dashboard warning lights for either of these systems this would be another place to look. As a follow up those to tie rods that are or were touching should not be. Check to make sure that one or the other is not bent. If you are the second owner and the vehicle is high mileage perhaps the first owner neglected to inform you that one of those tie rods was replaced in the past.
    Here is a TSB for a more recent Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) on ESP ABS.
    I hope this has been of some help. ESP and ABS are dynamic systems and as a result
    rather complicated to trouble shoot without a CAN BUS II device.
    Best of Luck
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • I loved my B5 S4 so much that I ended up buying another 2.7TT in an C5 A6 trim. I love these cars, yes they leak from every seal, yes they blow torque converters in Autos and occasionally chew threw sleeves/synchros in Manuals and the electrical issues may become a nightmare without a VAGCOM. My advice to anyone thinking about buying a used 1998-2004 A6/S4 in 2.7TT:

    1. Be mechanically inclined there are write-ups for most everything that can go wrong with your 2.7TT with detailed pictures, otherwise be prepared for $$$$$ labor bills from $tealerships.
    2. Buy a VAGCOM cable + download the free software
    3. Get familiar with the eBay parts - cheap and plentiful for these years of A6
    4. Before buying ask yourself - do you really want to have the easy 330HP/350 ft. lbs torque AWD that you will absolutely have to maintain ?

    All of this being said - I have done just about everything that can be done between the 2 of my Audis: turbos, trans, torque converter, gaskets, sensors, belts, display cluster, clutch, CAT$$$, etc. But at the end of the day - spooling the 2 x K03's or 2xK04's as you blast onto the onramp at 70MPh without slipping makes it all worth it :D
  • trat3gictrat3gic Posts: 3
    edited October 2011
    Check / replace your ICM's (ignition control modules) - 2 little computer modules sitting on the passenger side right above your air filter box. Very common to go out usually dont have to replace more than once in the life of the vehicle. About $60/per

    This is what it looks like
  • fog light bulb is out
  • Greetings scottyny !
    If your living in the New York area you don't need fog lights you need a snow plough. All joking aside ! Bulb type should be in your service or owners manual but unless you want to crawl under the front of your vehicle I'd suggest going to the Local Audi dealer or where you have the vehicle serviced.
    Best Regards
  • Please share the TSB if you were able to find it. My 2005 A6 Quattro 4.2L has suffered from the exact same thing since I got it...I had just assumed it was due to the low profile tires since it's an S-Line. :blush:
  • hello there,...well, i figured it out and had it fixed,. the vibration coming from the left steering turns out that my ABS E.C.U (electronic control unit) was bad and had to replaced...found out that the one that was in my car didnt even go to an Audi!! how retarded is that?..the E.C.U. is made up of two parts, the Hydraulic part (which rarely never goes bad) and then the Electronic part of the E.C.U. which is basically a circuit board,..thats the piece that goes bad on these cars...not saying this will totally be your problem, but it really sounds like it...cost wise? mine is a 2002 so it was about 3 something...this is key right here,..Make Sure if this is your problem, that they can get you JUST the circuit board part of the DONT NEED HE WHOLE E.C.U. REPLACED...Just the circuit board can get by with a " Rebuilt " circuit board, but make sure once its installed that everything else sinks up, because i found out that after fixing my E.C.U, the steering angle sensor was wayyy off and, my Yaw Rate Sensor was bad too...hope this helps
  • Well that is great news. Great that you stuck with it and your research paid off.
    If cars could talk I'm sure they would speak volumes about how they had been treated from previous owners.
    thanks for taking the time to write back about your success.

    Best Regards
    JKAudiA6 :)
  • yes, im glad i was able to figure this whole thing out...kinda spendy, but these cars are totally worth it...i would definately get your car checked out though...we live in mountanous area here and having a problem like that in the snow would not be cool...not sure if you live in snowy area but if you do, get the car problem on giving you some finding out more and more about these cars every sure ill be posting again about something,..maybe...good luck on your car :)
  • I have a 2004 A6 2.7 S-line with 58k miles. just recently the ABS light will randomly come on, later go off.. the check engine light also has appeared, then gone off.. Audi and another mechanic both told me the ABS light was the left rear wheel speed sensor, which i had someone other than Audi replace. That didnt fix the ABS light from returning. He said it could be the wiring, or maybe the brake control module, but wont know until he replaces these expensive checks..
    I primarily use this car to take me to the train station and thought about ignoring it.. but it is a nice car and ABS is a safe feature to ignore.
    does anyone have an idea if this is the best way to fix this problem..
  • when i turn key in ignition, the cars selected gear panel shows that all gears are selected, after turning key back and forth for up to 25 minutes, a light reading "esp" on the speedo side will come on and car will then correctly display that it is in "park" and start properly and run completely normal, can anyone help with a diagnosios to this problem ?
  • Greetings ptjaudi,
    Lets start with the basics, Give me the Year and model of your Audi A6 preferable in this form: A6 4B,C5,C6 or some other chassis classification, Motor Code Alpha Numeric, Model year and Either a Saloon, or Avant, with or without Quattro and Transmission type.
    jkAudiA6 :sick: :sick:
  • hello thank you for your response my car is a audi A6SE AUTO limousine 2.4 engine output is 121kw /EG2 A5 O4/99 model design is 4B2 OLK engine code/gearbox code APS/EBV
  • Greetings ptjaudi! Sorry this took so long.
    Your ignition switch and the control units for Vehicle start authorization are most likely the area where the problem is. I say most likely because you will need to have a "Authorized Service Center" or reputable Repair shop familiar with older Audi A6 Sedan 4B2/C5 electronics run a diagnostic test for error codes to pin point the problem. Unless you have a "VagCom" diagnostic tester and considerable Electronics/software knowledge this is not a job for DIY (Do it yourself repair). In my opinion, you will need Audi to solve this problem, either through there Web Page, or a dealer. Electronics are always a difficult task and all but impossible to diagnose over the internet, in particular with older vehicles.
    Over the last ten plus or so years, Audi has moved to HiTec Components and electronics. The up-side is more efficient vehicles when they operate correctly, but when a problem arises, it's $$$$'s that solve the problem. I hope this will save you some time.
    Best Regards
    JkAudiA6 :blush:
  • I've just gone over 50k miles (put on 120+ miles a day). Beginning last week, car stalled on a Tuesday and I had it towed. I could start the car but it continuously cut-off. Next day, car ran fine until Thursday. Car stalled again with same problems existing. Checked oil and it appeared to be extremely low. Car towed to dealership and they had it for 2 days and found nothing wrong other than the need for an oil change.

    I have had the car back for 2 days and it just stalled out again around 7pm. Left the car, came back to it at 9pm and the car is running like nothing happened.

    Any idea what I should be telling the tech to look for?
  • Hi Clylesir,
    To start with if they had your car for two days and did not find anything wrong you need to
    seriously find a better Audi Service Center, even if you purchased the car there.
    Tell me, did they "The Service Dept." of your Audi dealer do a Diagnostic read out and not give you a copy and charge you for that Diagnostic read out on your "Oil Change Reciept"????????? Shame on Them my friend.
    If not go back and get one, any error codes in particular from the Engine electronics, engine Temperature and fuel systems.
    Then find out if there are Technical Service bullitens,(TSB's) regarding your specific problem.
    Another question:
    Does the car always start and run until the engine gets warm then stall?
    I don't know if your current model is the same but in the 99 A6 The Engine temperature sensor is a dual sensor and measures Engine Water Temperature and Fuel pressure.
    DO YOU HAVE ANY WARNING LIGHTS on the Instrument Cluster before the problem happens???
    Get back to me with that Info.
    JKAudiA6 :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    Yep, that's a pretty sad Audi dealer. If you are in the San Francisco Bay Area, I can refer you to Audi people who actually know what they are doing.

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  • Regarding diagnostic --Tech message stated "scanned no codes and could not duplicate concern. The car sat through wknd...I started up and drove the car again and could not duplicate concern." I didn't see a charge other than oil change receipt and did not receive a copy of the diagnostic read out.

    The stalls have happened at various times (15 minutes into drive after sitting during work day; stalled after sitting for a 10 minute period between stops; stalled after 1 1/2 commute when backing out of driveway)

    2 out of 3 stalls occurred while I was driving and never at a speed level above 15 - 20mph.

    There have been no warning lights prior to the 3 incidents.

    I was able to drive it to the dealer today (20 minutes approx) without any problems. Left it and waiting to see what's next.

    Thanks JK...
  • Regarding diagnostic --Tech message stated "scanned no codes and could not duplicate concern. The car sat through wknd...I started up and drove the car again and could not duplicate concern." I didn't see a charge other than oil change receipt and did not receive a copy of the diagnostic read out.

    The stalls have happened at various times (15 minutes into drive after sitting during work day; stalled after sitting for a 10 minute period between stops; stalled after 1 1/2 commute when backing out of driveway)

    2 out of 3 stalls occurred while I was driving and never at a speed level above 15 - 20mph. Conditiions have varied as well i.e. heavy rains, dry and NJ cool.

    There have been no warning lights at anytime.

    I was able to drive it to the dealer today (20 minutes approx) without any problems. Left it and waiting to see what's next.

    Thanks JK...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    You might have gotten the "sunshine treatment".

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  • jkaudia6jkaudia6 Posts: 77
    edited January 2012
    Hi. !
    Please copy this linked address to your browser and read, Even if some or all is not clear because of technical terms. When you get done with that I have couple of questions:
    1. Did you purchase the vehicle New?
    2. you mention earlier the Oil level was very low;
    A. Are you on a 12 month service interval program or 24 Months?
    B. Are you using Mineral based motor oil?
    3. Ref. Question Nr.1, Have you or the previous owner had any "Chip tuning done by A third party tuning shop?
    4. Ref. question 2a,b; If your oil level was really low you should have had a warning light unless of course the light or sensor for it were defective. If it is defective and the oil level was "very low" then the engine would shut down.
    Check your Operators manual about that.
    5. Also if your using a Mineral based Oil you need to stop doing that as A6 3.2 liter engines are highly proned to "Sludge build up" Check your operation manual
    For the correct Oil recommended by Audi/VW. Since your vehicle is now three plus years old, unless you purchased an extension warranty, your car will not be covered in either case unless you follow the Mfg's service intervals.
    The link which I attached talks about software updates for A6 3.2 FSI vehicle "IF" your vehicle has a "vin number" which falls within the referenced VIN number range. This info. is from an Audi Tech. Bullies which I found on the net. Print it out and Talk to your dealer about this issue.

    Please understand I'm not saying any one or more of the issues above are the cause of your problem, but we have to start somewhere, correct.
    Be informed before you take your car in, not after. One last note-about driving habits as I also drive an A6 3.2 Quattro: Short trips with An A6 3.2 eng. is like stuffing rags in a vacuum cleaner, sooner or later it will choke to death. I say this with,, "Tongue in Cheak" but if that's the case Find a long road, if you get my drift, and be careful. Have you not noticed that it uses fare less gas at highway speeds than in the city?
    Let us know how things turn out.
    JKAudi44 : :shades:

    Sent from my iPad
  • 4moneypit4moneypit Posts: 4
    edited January 2012
    '03 Audi A6 2.7T QT SDN 39,000mi of elderly parnts. Single Audi dealer w/n ~170mi. $45K pd new. Want dlr take back moneypit, then get CR-reliable car. Suggestions re audi strategy? ~$5000 Lifetime repairs pd to-date [incl replacing I/O tie rod assembly, ignition coils, torsen differential seal, door lock switches, O sensor, coolant & exhaust temp sensors, aux water pump, eng shield hardware, chain tensioner seals, rr cam plugs, fr axle differential seal, valve cover gasket, emerg flasher switch, battery (2nd x) and brake light switch].
    ~$6300 + tx in ADDITIONAL repairs "recommended" Dec '11 but now deferred [including replacing fr brake pads/rotors (2nd x)), pan gasket and engine rr main seal, lt fr drive axle & CV boot (2nd boot), rt ft axle shaft seal, shifter assembly for reverse light, and rr rotors]. ~$3000 + tx in MORE ADDITIONAL repair (dealer's analysis but not currently "recommended") : replace valve seal guides (after 2 induction services for exhaust smoke on startup). Therefore, ~$10,000 imminent/future repairs!!! Thank you for any feedback.
  • Greeting 4moneypit!
    Well in general terms one would expect a vehicle of t">link titlehat price class to have fewer problems . But then I drove an E34 BMW for twenty one years, 180k miles total before I finally said it's time to let go. AS for an Audi strategy, the more I read about U.S. Audi on this and other forums and having worked as a New car service advisor for 10 plus years I can't help but wonder.
    A.Is there a difference in quality control and third party supply chains between Audi Europe and the U.S. Of course it's difficult at best to get a straight answer from a dealer salesman or women, and they most like would not know anyway where specific parts are Manufactured on any given vehicle. But these days it's common place to find replacement parts from, China,Poland as well as other forgien third party Mfg's. The question is then, are they of the same quality as "German" parts. My answer to that has several answers:
    1. Original Equipment Manufactured (OEM) parts have a different engineered quality level than replacements parts from thiird party suppliers.
    2. OEM does not always mean that a given vehicle MFG makes the parts used in the vehicles they build. What it really means is that parts "OEM", sold as OEM parts are to the engineered standards of that Vehicle MFG.
    3. There are also government standards applicable in the country where the vehicle is sold.
    In general The record shows Audi does an exceptional job of building mass production vehicles in a number of different price classes. Are motor vehicles perfect, no. Is there a difference between U.S. models and German Market vehicles, it appears so.In the end you will have to decide when your vehicle, the pleasure or aggrevation level has peaked, and tread in.
    All of that withstanding Audi is not a cheap car to buy or own And Maintain.
    I purchased my 05, A6 Quattro, used one owner with fifty-one K kilometers, about 35k miles. IN the first year I replace the battery, and blinker repair from an Audi dealer, cost 500 € or about $650. This year a Headlight adjustment motor $80 DIY, brake pads and rotors on the front, ceramic 750€.
    Of course when the head gasket on our 1990bmw blew in 09, it was a surprise.
    And after laying out $2000 just to find out it would cost another 1k I did the work myself with the help of a friend and then sold it to him for 500 cash. So when you talk about money pits, some cars are just better than others.
    One last word and I'll stop! I started to smoke when I was 17 and stopped @ 42
    My first car was A fifty-one Chevy since then Nine other cars, give or take. Then the best one was my 1966 Beatle, now it's my A6. Of course if I were
    to add up all the money I've spent on maintenance and repair, oH well you get the idea. What's the answer! If your rich buy what you like, if your not rich then Research,research, reseach.The Internet is a wealth of information.
    Good luck to you my friend for the New Year.
    Best Regards
    JKAudiA6 :shades:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,588
    you really need second opinions on these deferred items--I suspect you are being vastly oversold, given the scant mileage on the car. Are you in a large metro area? Are there any German repair shops which are independently owned?

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