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Chevy Silverado



  • dch0300dch0300 Posts: 472
    Would converting the truck to dual exhaust increase my mileage some when towing that big of a boat, or just give it a little more umph?
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Will give you more oomph on the high end. Usually a loss of torque on the low end with less restrictive exhaust system. Course there are exceptions to the rule.
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    with obyone. I wouldn't expect any increase in gas mileage while towing with a low restriction exhaust, the only benefit you will POSSIBLY see is improved high end performance.
    Certainly any increase in mileage would only be on a 1/10ths of MPG scale, and never provide enough return to pay for the cost of the modification.
    The best way to improve your mileage while towing is to slow down. For example when my dad towed his 30' fifth wheel at 65-70mph he got about 7 mpg. He tried at 55-60 and his mileage went to a little over 8 mpg. That may not sound like a big deal but in reality its about a 15 percent improvement.
    You won't see that degree of a benefit because your boat is much lighter and more aerodynamic, but going a little slower will help.
  • dch0300dch0300 Posts: 472
    Luckily, the closest boat launch is only 5 miles away. So if we do get the 24' boat I'll only use a gallon of gas or two to get there and back.
    Though, once a year I'll need to tow it about 50 miles in order to get a little closer to the San Juan islands and to Vancouver Island in Canada before I put it in the water.

    Truck Towing Boat: 65 mph @ 8 mpg.
    Boat Pushing Water: 30 mph @ 2 mpg.
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    Fuel consumption on a boat is rated in gallons per hour. On a 24ft boat, at wide open throttle I would random a guess of about 20-25 GPH.
  • dch0300dch0300 Posts: 472
    So why is fuel consumption on a boat rated at gallons per hour and vehicles rated at miles per gallon?

    If I'm traveling in a boat doing 30 mph and I use 15 gph, isn't that the same as getting 2 mpg?

    If I'm traveling in my truck doing 72 mph and I'm getting 18 mpg, isn't that the same as getting 4 gph?
  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    Similar to aircraft, the medium you are moving through may not be stationary like the ground. The effect in water is more dramatic due to rate of travel being closer to the speed of the medium. The water could be flowing downstream faster than you are traveling upstream giving you a negative ground miles per gallon. Unless, of course, you really want to go downstream, just slower than the current.

    Land yachts get buffeted by the wind or water currents, but aren't affected unless traction is lost.
  • totoritotori Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Silverado Crew Diesel. The airconditiong is horrible. It just isnt cold enough.

    We took it in once and they "fixed" something and it still doesnt work very well. I live in Southern California and the temperature does get in to the hundreds quite often but that is what it is supposed to be for! I have had several different people comment in my car about the A/C, so I am not crazy. Has anyone had this problem?
  • psgpsg Posts: 72
    goes over 90 degrees. I'm still not sure about this as the season is really just heating up in our Southern Part of Heaven - Chapel Hill, NC. I saw your post and thought, "hey, maybe I'm not crazy." I was just starting to wonder if I need to call the dealer. I've never owned a American car that didn't have an excellent A/C. Yesterday, the A/C did fine but the temperature was in the 80s. It seems when we go over 90, the A/C never gets real cold and the fan runs continuously on high (auto-climate control). I have a 2003 Silverado extended cab. We will see what August brings...
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    be changing dealers since their service department seems inept.
  • catamcatam Posts: 331
    I would guess there is a problem with your AC system. I have owned 2 different Chevy trucks and both had great AC. My current truck keeps the cab very comfortable, and it has been very hot here, 103 today, and 7th straight day over 100. On pace to be the hottest July ever in my area.
    Also according to the auto press I have heard only raves about the GM AC systems in their trucks. I don't have the link, but Motor Trend did a comprehensive 4WD comparo in Death Valley last year, and I remember part of the article commented that The GM's were very popular driving choices for their "beer cooler cold AC".
    A couple of questions. Does your a/c blow sub par all the time or only at idle at a stop light. In very high temps, A/c systems have a hard time keeping up at times when there is very little air blowing thru the condenser. I would take it back to the dealer and have them check the temperature that your AC is blowing, should be less than 40 degrees.
  • psgpsg Posts: 72
    I'll have to pay closer attention. The A/C ran fine yesterday. My current thinking is it is an intermittent problem. :-(

    BTW, I'm on my second A/C fan motor. The first one self-destructed just before a trip to Florida. Apparently, a couple of the tabs that hold the fan motor in it's housing had broken. The fan dropped down and started rubbing the vent housing.

  • z71billz71bill Posts: 2,000
    If you have the auto climate control feature activated it will normally select "outside air" if you manually switch over to "recirc" it will make a big difference in the cooling.

    When you have outside air selected the AC system only has one chance to cool the air. Even the best system will only be able to change the air temp by about 20 degrees. If the outside temp is 95 degrees you will get 75 degree air. If you select recirc it keeps running the same air through the system, each time it lowers it by 15-20 degrees, until of course it reaches the temp of your evaporator.

    If this does not solve your problem - then you have something wrong with your system.
  • psgpsg Posts: 72
    Duh! Of course, that will make a big difference. It's been awhile since I read the owners manual.

  • donaldm1donaldm1 Posts: 19
    2002 HD seems to be developing a rattle in the steering system. You can feel it on washboard and on pavement going slow around slight turns. Steering seems tight, just a rattle coming up to the wheel. Anyone else experience this?
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    The problem is very common with this truck. I had it too. The grease they used in the intermediate steering shaft dries out. Take it in. The fix is quick and easy. I'm told that once it's lubed with the proper grease (GM #1 26098419) it won't recur.

  • donaldm1donaldm1 Posts: 19
    Thanks. Will take it in.
  • dev8dev8 Posts: 2
    has anyone had any problems with a clunking noise
    in drive train.
  • bigfurbigfur Posts: 649
    Almost EVERYONE has had problems with a clunk in their drivetrain. It has something to do with the slip yolk on the drive shaft. Took my 01 in a few weeks ago for it, i mentioned a clunk in the drivetrain and the service writter knew EXACTLY what it was. Course now my clunk has returned so off to the dealer i go again. I also beleive there is a TSB out for this problem, im sure someone in here can repost that for you too.
  • arttartt Posts: 14
    There are two clunks. The driveshaft yoke and this one:

    Info - Driveline Clunk #99-04-20-002A
    Driveline Clunk
    2002 and Prior Light Duty Truck Models
    This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-20-002 (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).
    The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile 47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) or Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004.
    Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse.
    Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released.
    Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have.
    The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline.
    For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline.
    In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:
     Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.
     While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect durability or performance.
    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
  • I have a 2002 with the 8100 engine which is using about 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles with only 20,000 miles! GM local factory representative Ken Wagner claims this engine should use about 1 Quart of oil for every 100 gallons of gas. What a crock! I believe the original problem was the loose intake manifold which had a recall (not advertised!) to fix the bolts. Being loose for so long (they finally admitted a problem at 19,000 and fixed the bolts) I think that either the intake manifold and/or heads are now warped and/or the vibrations of the two pieces together has ground metal away causing bad seating. GM just does NOT want to rebuild the engines they failed to fix in time.

    Does any one out there with a new 8100 engine (under 10,000 miles) burn 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles?

    GM is now telling me they will extend the engine component warranty to 6yr/100,000. The problem I see with this is that the wording makes engine failure because you ran out of oil not covered! Also this oil burn fouls the plugs out after about 800 miles and you start to get takeoff hesitation!

    Does any one know how long it will take this kind of oil usage to mess up the emissions system?

    What can I expect my oil consumption to be at 50,000 miles? (2 Quarts per 1000 miles?)

    How long will I be able to continue passing state emissions test?

    Do I need to even bother changing the oil with it burning this amount of oil?

    Wether you are having a problem or not with the 8100 I would go back to GM and get the "free" 6yr 100,000 file component warranty on this engine.
  • I have had good luck so far except for the A/C sensor. My a/c went out because of a defective sensor that was replaced. Now is cold a/c once it was replaced. My others are experiencing the same problem.
    Call your dealer and ask about the sensor that plugs into the canister off the passenger side fire wall in the engine compartment.

    My tranny also clunks. I was told not to worry about it.
    Im frazzled about the tranny because I traded in my 99 Ford F150 Lariat w/ 5.4 Liter after the dealer told me tranny number 6 was going in at 55K miles.
    I dumped it and became a Chevy man.
  • jaguar0027jaguar0027 Posts: 387
    "I dumped it and became a Chevy man."

    That was your first mistake.. muhahahhahaha
  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057
    Did they change out the PVC valve to the newer design one? There was an issue with them causing high oil consumption..............geo

    But fouling the plugs?.....Hmmmmmm...............
  • I have an 03, short box, std cab, V-6 automatic, 13,500 miles. When you take it on a smooth asphalt road it starts to shake at 58 mph and keeps shaking to over 75. Has done it since new. You really feel it in the seat. Steering wheel does not shake. The dealer and I drove a brand new one built 4 months before mine and it was worse! They had the chevy rep drive the new one and he sent a report to Detroit. As of 3 weeks no answer or cure.
    The wheels were balanced but the shop supervisor says the frequency is faster than wheel speed. I say drive shaft he says he has no clue. I think the frame is setting up a harmonic. A friend has the same truck it does not shake... So much for the smooth ride suspension as printed on the window sticker!! Do any of you have this problem?? Dealer also said it is not the engine, nor is it the recalled chrome steel wheels.
  • dev8dev8 Posts: 2
    i took my 03 chevy silverado in for steering
    noise,dealer called back and said my a/c comp
    was comming apart. anyone else having same problem
  • balichbalich Posts: 62
    I hear noises from the dash also but I sense this has to do with AC - but only
    occurs when I have the AC on the lowest setting.

    I am pretty confident that my noise is a AC on
    lowest setting noise I hear.

    On a side note: Anybody with a '03 hear
    squeaky noises from pedal when pressing accelerator pedal when driving ???
  • balichbalich Posts: 62
    I hear noises from the dash also but I sense this has to do with AC - but only
    occurs when I have the AC on the lowest setting.

    I am pretty confident that my noise is a AC on
    lowest setting noise I hear.

    On a side note: Anybody with a '03 hear
    squeaky noises from pedal when pressing accelerator pedal when driving ???
  • bsilerbsiler Posts: 30
    I just purchased a 2003 off the lot. I used to know where to find this information but I guess my age is catching up. Can I find it in the VIN or on the door jamb.
  • bonreabonrea Posts: 48
    Have a 2001 Z71 5.3L w/AT and towing package GVW 6400lbs. I purchased it used in July w/30000 miles and have experienced a problem with the steering pulling to the left. Not hard but enough to be annoying, the dealer I purchased it from claims they did an alignment on it the day before I was to pick it up but it still does it. I am taking it back to them tomorrow. I’ll keep you posted. I want to keep everyone posted because further back into this discussion, dated two years ago, I noted someone saying that GM has had to replace the power steering pump to solve a pull to the right. May be tough to convince them this may be the problem. I keep the tires [Fstone] inflated properly but still have the pull.

    I also have the hard shifting problem [noticed it when test driving it} from 1st to 2nd gear. It is only getting worse. If anyone has found a solution to this problem PLEASE let me know because the BtoB warranty runs out Jan. 1 of 2004.
This discussion has been closed.