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Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars



  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,616
    The diode is to stop alternating feedback through the clutch hub and spikes like kia said.
    If you do not use it, then you take a chance on burning up the hub.

    There is a reason it is there, make sure it is installed.
    Half the retro installations I have seen without the diode end up burning up the clutch.
    I have replaced quite a few of the hubs because of something like this.
  • rlmntrlmnt Posts: 3
    After my out-of-warranty '04 Element's A/C stopped working last week, the local Honda Dealer's service manager informed me that the A/C system was "full of metal" - indicating a complete internal breakdown. He could flush the system and replace the compressor but wouldn't recommend it because the metal pieces couldn't be totally eliminated and the system would fail within a year - probably sooner. So, his solution? Replace it all. $3,500. He claims that only by replacing the entire system (all parts/belts/hoses/everything) could A/C capability be restored. This strikes me as 1) extreme and 2) expensive. Does anybody have any suggestions for me? Thanks!
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,616
    Get a second opinion.
    Check around your area for a local honda specialist shop or an A/C Specialist shop and see if they can give you an estimate on the problem.

    I would prefer an A/C specialist shop, as that is all they do and are more versed in those systems.
    I deal with an A/C place that is in my profile, their site may be of some use.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,570
    OPatience is right, you need to go to an AC specialist. In general terms, the service manager is correct---severe contamination would probably result in failure of the compressor once again as it sucks up some old metal particles that might escape the little filters in there or that didn't get flushed. But then, it might not. I think you need to figure out how much the flush and new compressor will cost (and you probably need a new dryer), and the flush, as opposed to a complete overhaul.

    Really the only way debris can be in the system is if your compressor seized or is very very noisy and on the point of seizure. Did this happen? It should have been quite noisy and given you plenty of warning, but not always...

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • rlmntrlmnt Posts: 3
    All good advice. And even a thread of hope! Thank you! I'm off to see an A/C specialist!
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,616
    Ok, first thing. DO NOT buy parts without testing.
    Testing/Diagnostics/Checking is the first thing you should ever do. Throwing parts at it is rarely productive and most times costly.

    Now this is where a good information system comes in handy.
    AlldataDIY is something you should have before starting a repair. I know, it may sound like an advertisement, but understand that a manual does NOT give you updated information and service bulletins.

    That being said, there is a service bulletin about Synchronizing the passenger and driver's side.
    (See next post)
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,616
    A/C - System Changes/Synchronization
    Bulletin No.: 03-01-39-008
    Date: June 25, 2003
    Changes in A/C Compressor On/Off Instrument Panel Display Symbol from 2003 to 2004 Model Year and Synchronizing the Driver and Passenger Set Temperatures
    2003-2004 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT
    2003-2004 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe
    2003-2004 GMC Denali, Denali XL, Sierra, Sierra Denali, Yukon, Yukon XL
    2003-2004 HUMMER H2
    with Dual Zone Automatic Climate Control (RPO CJ2)

    This bulletin is being issued to clarify the operation of the A/C compressor and to explain the driver and passenger set temperature operation on vehicles equipped with dual zone automatic climate control systems (RPO CJ2).

    Operation of A/C Compressor 2003 A/C OFF Indicator
    On 2003 model year vehicles, a snowflake with a slash through it is shown on the display when the A/C has been turned off (by a press of the A/C button). The A/C can be turned on by pressing the AUTO button or pressing the A/C button again. This will remove the indicator from the display.

    Some customers may comment about poor A/C performance after they've pressed the A/C button and see what appears to be the snowflake illuminated on the display. What has actually happened, though, is that they have disabled the operation of the A/C compressor and the snowflake symbol, upon closer inspection, has a slash through it.

    2004 A/C ON Indicator
    On 2004 model year vehicles, the indicator will change to a snowflake (without the slash) and it will be illuminated whenever the A/C compressor operation is enabled.

    Driver and Passenger Set Temperature Operation
    The display of driver and passenger set temperature may also cause confusion. It is possible to set the left temperature control to full cold and the right temperature control to full hot with little indication on the display that the two temperatures are set differently.

    If the driver set temperature is set to 16°C (60°F) and the passenger set temperature is set to 32°C (90°F), the display will show the passenger set temperature for only five seconds. After that time, the display will show only the driver set temperature and a small arrow pointing left. The arrow is very important because it is the only indicator that the left and right temperatures are not equal. When both the driver and passenger set temperatures are equal, the display will have arrows pointing both left and right.

    With different set temperatures, it is possible to have the left temperature door flowing air through the evaporator and the right temperature door flowing air through the heater core. This may cause the overall passenger compartment temperature to not be cooled or heated as well as the customer might expect.

    In order to synchronize the driver and passenger temperatures, follow these steps:
    ^ Set the driver and passenger set temperatures to the desired temperatures, OR
    ^ Push and hold the AUTO button for at least four seconds to make both driver and passenger set temperatures set to the driver's set temperature. Both set temperatures can be controlled by the left temperature control knob when the zones are linked in this manner. Turning the passenger set temperature knob will "unlink" the zones again.
  • Thanks for the tips. Its a manual dual control which of course is silly since the passenger is only 18 inches away so I do not think sync is the answer since the controls work independently and flawlessly when repeatedly checked. The heated hot air blows out of the drivers side randomly & without warrning with the air on or off, at that time the drivers side temp contol is useless. This is south florida so the slide switch is normally always at the bottom (cold setting). Only turning off the engine and restarting will reset the sytem to normal operation. I spoke to another service tech at a GMC dealer yesterday who indicated that 99% of the time its the temp actuator. Any thoughts?
  • hi all,
    climate control help GMC Denali, when I set temp fan blows on high and doesn't slow down when temp is reached also only blows cold unless temp is set to 90 degrees, actuators zones appear to be working fine. temperature sensor? if so where is it? thanks please help dealer wants big bucks to fix.
  • A parts tech for Chevy told me that the green board with metal contacts run thru was what controlled the fan speed. It is easily located in front of the blower fan. where passengers right foot wound be. Remove AC shroud first only 2 screws to remove board 4 for shroud. I would take that part to a dealer to confirm but order online to save 50% or more, do a parts search & compare $. the tech also said it was a common failer.
  • i can manually reduce speed, it goes to hi on auto mode and will not reduce fan speed when temp is achieved and again only blows warm air when thermostat is set at 90.
    any suggestions?
  • Should be the same board I was refering to. I think it detects the tempeture and when set temp. is reached it drops the fan speed down. I do not have the auto temp. so I haven't got that problem. Good luck
  • :sick: Mr Shiftright,
    I have 2005 nissan sentra with the same problem. these days are kind of cold mornings, so I turned the knob to the heater, when in the afternoon tried to run the A/C by turning the knob to cold, I still get hot air.
    It looks like the heat/cold valve is stuck on the heat.
    Do you have update on your car situation, I mean did you figure it out what exactly was the problem.
    Thanks for any update you provide
  • I have the exact same problem. 2004 Silverado. With AC on (or even just the vent) I will get very hot air blowing from the drivers side vents only. And, as you said, must re-start the vehicle to "re-set". Did you find what the problem was exactly and what was the part name/number?
  • I have 2005 nissan sentra with the same problem. these days are kind of cold mornings, so I turned the knob to the heater, when in the afternoon tried to run the A/C by turning the knob to cold, I still get hot air.
    It looks like the heat/cold valve is stuck on the heat.
    Do you have update on your car situation, I mean did you figure it out what exactly was the problem.
    Thanks for any update you provide. :cry:
  • I think its fixed a couple more weeks to be certain. Two weeks ago I replaced the drivers side temp actuator GM part # 89018365, it was just under $200 with tax from the dealer. You can get it thru for almost half that price now that you have the part #. Take off the duct shroud ( 4 screws ) and the actuator is right above the hump in the floor, only 2 screws & pull down. You can fell the spindel or shaft that connets to to flapper that lets in the heated air, open and close manually with your finger tips an you can hear it open & close. Line that shaft to the opening in the actuator and reinstall the 2 screw. I plugged the new one in first and started the truck to watch the actuator turn to the close flap position (no heat) which is what I had manually put the flap in. It was a very simple job 10-20 minutes. I like to know what the dealer would have charged, probably pretty high. I also found out when I got the part that their are 3 or 4 actuators in that system. The passengers side is above the drivers at the top side or the duct (under top of dash), hope that one never goes, and theirs one for recirculation door and I think their is one more somewhere in their. hope this helps.
  • I have 95 aaccord ex etec engine. The heater fan motor just quit. After checking i've found the motor if ok, the swithch has power. The schematic in the manual says there is a rheostat and a relay for this motor. Any one know where these are located? or other sugesstions?
    thanks mikpalm
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    typically the resistors are put inside the plenum itself, so that the air moving thru the plenum helps cool the resistors (and you get the heat from the resistors). Look for an area on the plenum where wires go to it, and bolts on to the side of the plenum.
  • I have a 94 mazda mx3, the defrost and the rear defrost are not clearing the fog the way it should. What could be the problem any idea?
  • My A/C has been faulty for almost 2 years, i really need help. It seems to function perfectly well in cool or rainy conditions. In winter, there was no problems. But every time the weather warms up, the a/c in the car can only work for a few minutes, before warming up to the point of blowing air that is 26deg.C. Every 2 mintues or so it repeats the cycle, cooing down to about 10deg.C. Of course it only happens while driving, so mechanics are having a hard time diagnosing the problem while it's on the road. I have had the evaporator replaced, the system flushed a new thermister and expansion valve. Of course i have no idea what all those words mean. The mechanic says the weather has nothing to do with it, :confuse: but i tested my theory again this morning in the cold rain, and it stayed at 5deg.C the whole time. Took the car out 2 hours later when the sun had come out, and straight away it was blowing hot air. Oh, and when it does decide to cool down, it makes a high pitched squeal. Please Please Please help. :cry: I'm taking the car back Wednesday, and I want to have some ideas for them.
  • As the temperatures have dropped, My 99 RL Climate Control has begun to blow cold air long after the car is warmed up - the dash temp guage shows normal. The Climate Control "thinks" it should be warm air because the automatic fan kicks in, but the air is only cold. It is sometimes 10-15 minutes or longer before the air becomes warm, so we have to turn of the system and periodically try it to see if it is warm yet. Then once it blows warm, it is fine for the remainder of the trip.

    Any ideas?
  • Hi,
    My 1999 Ford Expedition recently stopped blowing out any heat. Blower blows fine, but not enough heat. Brought it to a local shop and they replaced the thermostat. Picked up the truck and bearly any heat and truck runs rough. Check engine light came on half way home. Brought it right back to shop and they said that it takes the thermostat awhile to "open" up and that I probably need new spark plugs. Truck ran smoothly when I brought it in. Spark plugs were changed at approx. 90,000 miles. Could the shop have disrupted anything or caused the truck to misfire and engine light to come on. Computer check said something about cylinder #7 misfire, but something seems weird. Please advise.
  • 0patience0patience Oregon CoastPosts: 1,616
    More than likely, the thermostat wasn't even the problem.
    As for the thermostat opening, it would create heat if it didn't open up. The thermostat opens to allow coolant to circulate to cool the system down or keep it at a specific temperature.

    If your vehicle has A/C, then it is a good possibility that there is a problem with either the blend door or the blend door actuator.
    It the blend door doesn't close all the way, it allows the cold air from the A/C to overtake any heat.

    The other possibility is that the heater core has become plugged.

    Has the cooling system ever been serviced?

    How clean is the coolant?
  • The simple answer is they probably spilled some coolant and its gotten down and shorted out the spark plug.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America I70 & I75 Posts: 21,309
    Just to add to Opatience's post... I know not how Ford arranges its heater water supply compared to the GMs which I do know.

    Is there a shutoff valve that is closed for AC use to keep the heater from reheating AC air when really cold air is needed?
    Is that shutoff valve open?
    Is it vacuum operated?
    A vacuum leak could cause rough idle and strange running and engine light.
    The misfire might have been a wire pulled loose as they worked.

    First check for me would be to hold both heater hoses as close the firewall as I can grab them and see if they're really hot after the motor has been run for 10-15 minutes or more. That lets you now coolant is flowing through the heater core.

    From there it would be to the inside to see what's moving and what's not moving when you adjust the controls to heater and full hot.

    2015 Cruze 2LT, 2014 Malibu 2LT, 2008 Cobalt 2LT

  • I will be traveling down the highway going at least 60 MPH but at times the odometer will get stuck at 30 MPH or 40 MPH , the next day everything appears to be working fine again, this is now becoming a cycle. I contacted a locate dealership and was advised to purchase a new sensor device, costing around $500 bucks. I was told the whole dash board would have to be removed to get to the damaged part. What else could be causing this? Different temperature changes, low batteries, a bad fuse, condensation in the panel????
  • what is causing the sensor that is monitoring the speed I am going to read inaccurate one day and accurate the next day. Sometimes it will freeze up and just get stuck, I lightly tap the panel to help loosen up, sometimes this works and resets the monitor correctly. The buick dealership recommends I replace a part that will cost me $500, I was told the front panel has to be removed to replace this part, Could a loose wire, bad fuse, poor batteries, condensation with temperture changes be the culprit? I cannot understand paying out this much money for a replacement part when the part actually still works, just not all the time.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    I don't think you have determined that the failing piece is the sensor on the transmission, or something with the computer or display.

    What you should try, is to start driving around with the cruise control on. If you are driving lets say at 60 mph for 10 minutes, and then the speedometer now reads 30 but the car continues at the same speed controlled by cruise control, then you know that the transmission sensor and computer are okay, and the problem is likely the dash/display.

    On the other hand, if you are driving at 60 on cruise, and all of a sudden the speedomenter drops to 30 and the cruise either triggers off....or speeds the car up, then you should suspect the transmission sensor.
  • cbabercbaber Posts: 1
    I have 2006 expedition EB edition. The heater blows very hot air while the temperature is on 67F, even if I lower the temperature to 65F where no heater should be working, it still blows very hot air. This Usually happens when the outside temperature is low (30's). It makes a little difference when turn the A/C on with recycle air. I took it to the dealer and they did not find any problem. Most of the times I have to turn it off in order to breath in the care since it get very hot.

    any body have any clue
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