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Ford Escort ZX2



  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,347
    That should work if your car has that feature. There's a little solenoid in there under the console that is probably sticking and locking the lever, even if it got the proper signal from the brake pedal. If the emergency release doesn't work, then you have either a linkage or internal problem.

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  • korzokorzo Posts: 5
    Thanks. Can you tell me where the emergency release is located? I can't find it. My manual doesn't show how to do it. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,347
    don't know. I think it's something you slide back. Hang tight on this board, some other ZX2 owner must have done this. Or go ask the parts counter guy at Ford, he may know. You might have to buy a part from him anyway if it's the shift lock solenoid. Tell him/her you need to know so you can bring the car in.

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  • okay, first of all I let some dumbass jump his car with mine. At first nothing happened but a dead battery. Then I went on a two hour trip and my battery sort of exploded...So i had to replace the alternator and its running just fine, its just that none of my lights work except the dash lights. Signal lights, headlights, and all my back lights just dont work..I really need help!!!

  • izaclown1izaclown1 Posts: 118
    I will not be much help. But, I jump my sister's 98 ZX2 with a 94 Lincoln Continental and she drove a short while. Then, it died. Jumping it kill the electrical system and blew the computer in it.
  • korzokorzo Posts: 5
    Thanks so much for the info and advice. I'll call the parts guy and keep an eye on this board. I'm just a girl trying to figure this out, so I appreciate the help.
  • tacoman05tacoman05 Posts: 37
    If you look directly to the right of the shifter knob while it's in park, you'll see a small, square plastic piece. Just pry that off and stick a screwdriver down through the hole and it should release the shifter.
  • korzokorzo Posts: 5
    Thank you! What would be the permanent fix for this problem, a new solenoid?
  • tacoman05tacoman05 Posts: 37
    I really don't know a permanent fix, maybe someone else could chime in? I haven't had the time to deal with it, I just ended up putting a 3/16 x 3" bolt through the hole as it looks better than the screwdriver. The downside is that the car can be shifted out of park without depressing the brake, even when it's not running.
  • remowusremowus Posts: 40
    That sounds like a neat little trick. I'll have to remember it.
  • remowusremowus Posts: 40
    blinking real fast. It still works , but goes at least twice as fast. The right turn signal is ok. How do I fix this ?
  • mstacy1mstacy1 Posts: 9
    I have a 99zx2 and had the same problem. Check all your signal lamps. The fast signal is usually indicative of a blown light bulb. Check the front and rear signals and make sure all is working. Put the flasher on and make sure the flashers are flashing. Check the brake lamps as well by applying the brake.
  • unfortunately there is thousands of things that could have happened. i jumped my zx alot because my batter sucked. nothing ever happened. if the dash lights are still working thhan the back lights probably need a new fuse (in fuse box) normally, the dash lights wont work if the back lights are not working. if the fuses are good.. than the only thing u can do is take it to a shop and get their opinion
  • when i get on the gas (flooring it) the car will sputter in third gear while accelerating at. this doesn't happen all the time. anyone one have any ideas. could it be a fuel problem? like its not getting enough or something else. this is a 1999 automatic
    and the car sat for about 5 mos.
  • remowusremowus Posts: 40
    On my 2000 ZX2 . Going down the road and it just quit. I replaced the motor about 6 months ago, so I don't think that's it. It was working just great. The haynes book shows a resistor, but I don't think my model has that.
    Any ideas on how to test it?
  • amethisteamethiste Posts: 28
    Hello all. I have a ZX2 automatic 2 door with a little more than 195, 000 miles on it. This car has been nothing but a series of breakdowns and or problems since I bought it but it is all I have to work with for now. Most recently the AC stopped working. It was fine last summer but when I turned it on for the first time this year nothing but hot air blew out. The AC went out before within a year of purchase so the dealer repaired it at no charge. Does anyone have any idea what could be the problem? I'm thinking it needs an AC recharge. Roughly how much should I expect to pay. I live in the Baltimore metro area. Thanks in advance for all replies.
  • remowusremowus Posts: 40
    It turns out the blower got wet in a rainstorm because the drainholes under the hood got plugged up. The water had nowhere togo and got sucked into the blower.
    So clean your drainholes, boys. Keep all holes clean.
  • tmurphytmurphy Posts: 10
    My 98 ZX2 has been nothing but great. All AC's go at one time or another ... no matter what car you have. When mine went 2 years ago it was a relay that had to be replaced ... a $300.00 item ... my mechanic said 20 years ago this would have been a $10.00 item.
  • marcidanmarcidan Posts: 1
    I recently inherited a 2002 ZX2 with an unbelievable 8000 miles. I think it would make a great convertible. Anyone know where I might get the conversion? I am in the Chicago area.

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,347
    Probably not a good idea on a unibody car. Think of what happens to a pyramid if you cut the point of it off. Massive job and you won't like the results IMO.

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  • Don't know about the conversion kit, but if you are new to the ZX2 remember to always get your oil filters from the dealer and only use a good quality 5W-30. The oil filters have a special check valve in them to maintain the proper oil pressure. The dual overhead cam requires a constant and very specific oil pressure in order to operate most efficiently. If you use any old oil filter from the auto shop it will cause the rough idling that I'm sure you have read about in a thousand threads on this site. My wifes' ZX2 had a horribly rough idle until I met a mechanic who used to work at a Ford dealership. He flushed the motor with new 5W-30 and put the correct oil filter on it and it smoothed right out.
  • otakuotaku Posts: 1
    Hi There,

    I own a 2000 ZX2 with an automatic transmission that has about 35k miles on it. I purchased it used from a Mercury dealership back in 2003 and have had virtually no problems over the last five years.

    I don't put on a lot of mileage, as most of my driving is usually limited to running errands around town. I take pretty good care of it, perform regular maintenance, use synthetic oil and try to drive as smoothly as possible to maximize fuel economy/minimize wear and tear.

    Recently, I took a trip out of state that required me to get on the highway for a couple of hours. There was very little traffic, so I was trying to coast between 55 and 60 mph. The car drove fine while on level stretches with the engine speed hovering at about 2400 RPM most of the way. It wasn't until I got to some hills that I noticed something odd.

    I would depress the gas pedal slightly to maintain my speed while going uphill. Then, after reaching the top, I would try to very smoothly ease off the throttle a little so that I wouldn't speed up too much while descending the other side of the hill (I figured I could do this to improve my fuel economy while maintaining about the same speed).

    Whenever I tried to slowly back off of the gas pedal, the engine would abruptly slow down by about 400 to 500 rpm and the vehicle's speed would be reduced by more than I had intended. It almost felt like a downshift, but the transmission was still in overdrive. The opposite would occur as I tried to gently get back onto the gas pedal, making the car lurch forward a little. This made the ride rather annoying (at least through sections with a lot of hills).

    At first, I thought that maybe my inputs were not smooth enough, but the same thing took place even when I was using cruise control. In fact, it was probably more pronounced whenever I used cruise control. In the end, I settled on trying to compensate for some of the effect by applying a little extra pressure to the gas pedal while descending hills (as long as there weren't any cars in front of me).

    I'm not a mechanic, so I'm not really sure what could be causing this. I've never had a problem like this in any of the other cars I've owned, so it feels very abnormal. I don't think I'm doing any damage driving it like this, but it's very difficult to operate smoothly.

    As I mentioned, it only happens at highway speeds. I've already had the throttle position sensor and transmission fluid changed, but the problem persists. I went to two different transmission shops to see if they could diagnose the problem, but both times I was told everything was running properly and that they were unable to reproduce the glitch. I'm starting to wonder if perhaps this is some kind of "fuel delivery problem" with the engine.

    This is my first time contributing to this forum. I reviewed the other messages before posting to see if anyone had encountered similar issues, but I didn't see anything that appeared relevant. I was hoping that someone might have an idea as to what might be causing this. At this point, most of the mechanics I've talked to seem to think that the car's fine and that it's all just in my head. :confuse:

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time. :blush:
  • tmurphytmurphy Posts: 10
    Where can I find archived forums for the ZX2 from 1998?
  • :surprise: I have a 1999 ford escort zx2 and I was told that my tension needs replacing. I was quoted a price of $300 for parts and the same for labor. I feel like they think I am stupid. Question is this price outrageous or what?

    :shades: Also I had a module replace because my air cond wasn't working the total job cost me 249. Please I need advice.
  • remowusremowus Posts: 40
    There are some pulleys that are recommended to be replaced after so many miles. How many miles are on it?
    They replace the serpentine belt at the same time. If you are going to the dealer its more expensive of course.
    Here in st. louis I know where it can be done for about a half to three fourths of your estimate.
    Just let me know.
  • amethisteamethiste Posts: 28
    I have a 1999 ZX2 AT with almost 200,000 miles on it. The check engine light came on so I had it checked at my oil change place. The car leaks a lot of oil so I get it topped off once a week. I was told the code said that the fuel was too lean so I needed to get a gas additive. The car started idling really rough at stop lights and would cut off if I did not put it in neutral and gun the engine. I put in the gas additive (octane booster) but it still ran really rough. I got the oil topped off again and on the way out of the service center the brakes went out for a period and then worked. I pulled into the next shopping center and called my mechanic. I had planned on taking it to him on Monday anyway because that was when he could work on it. Then the car would not start again. I had AAA tow it and am now without a vehicle. Does anyone have any idea what this could be?

    I have had so much trouble with this car since buying it new. It has required major repairs since the beginning. What a :lemon:
  • remowusremowus Posts: 40
    After a 300 mile drive in 90 degree weather, my check engine light came on and flickered for a while then went off.
    Car seems to be running ok.
    Is there something I should check?
  • amethisteamethiste Posts: 28
    It turned out that the vacuum hose fell out
  • remowusremowus Posts: 40
    I ended up going to Auto Zone to get a check on the light. They said that the neutral switch needed adjusting. .
  • dzx2dzx2 Posts: 3
    Check to see if your horn works also, it may be the clock sping. It is the connection between the wheel and the column.
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