Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

babs6

Your advice please: my 2001 ob wagon will be repaired under SOA warranty for a head gasket leak on drivers side. My opinion is if one side is defective the chances the other side should be completed under warranty as well, the service manager has been very helpful and is trying to get this done. My question is if SOA will only pay for one side, should the other side be done as well at my expense for labor? If so what would be a reasonable charge for labor hours since part of the engine is disassembled as well? I plan on keeping the car for at least another year as it has 85K, i am the original owner w/dealer maintained history. I also plan to have the timing belt,& water pump replaced & plan to pay for parts only. valve cover gaskets & tube seals are leaking oil as well and should be replaced for the cost of parts only. At least that's my plan to fight for Comments or insight?
Does anyone know if these fixes will extend the usable life of this car past a year or so? If not maybe I'll just trade it Thanks

ateixeira

Plugs are not easy given the narrow engine bay in the Impreza. It's about the same as my Forester, so prepare for some skinned knuckles.

I used a ratchet and several extensions, two 2" extensions and a 3" extension as well. You'll have to change them because as you back out the plugs you run out of space and cannot pull them out. It's a bit awkward.

I've done it twice, and it's definitely *not* a 10 minute job.

OTOH, some people say you gotta drop the engine and that's a bunch of nonsense. :mad:

xwesx

Drop the engine?! Yikes.

Pulling the air cleaner on the left and the battery on the right gives a bit more finger/elbow room. I usually would attach a u-joint to the socket, followed by a 3" extension and sometimes another U with a second extension (depending on how feisty I felt). Pulling them out was relatively easy.... getting the ol' fingers into the head cavity with the new plugs and getting them started was the difficult part....

I would expect it to be 30-45 minutes the first go, 20-30 once you have done it a time or two. I lucked out and only had to change plugs twice with the engine in the car. The other two times I had the engine pulled for other reasons and just threw new plugs in it to save my knuckles the beating.

The vacuum system should be fairly obvious as it spiders out from the left side of the intake manifold. Just be ready with the throttle cable... (mine did NOT like to run with that stuff coming in).

You might consider placing new plug wires on it as well. Of 5 times pulling the wires off, only twice did they come off with no damage. There is a special plug wire pulling tool you can buy (fairly cheap) that is supposed to help prevent damage to them, but the wires tend to have a good grip on the plugs.

You can get to the oil filter and plug without lifting the car, but it is real tight. I preferred to put mine on ramps, but did do it a couple times with it on the ground: *tight* fit and tended to be messier.

leo2633

You should NOT replace the passenger side head gasket unless there is a leak. I have a 2001 Forester (same engine) and I also had to have the driver's side done. However, at nearly 170K miles, there has never been a leak on the passenger side. This has been a known problem on this engine from a few model years, and it has always been the driver's side, to my knowledge. As far as the leaking valve cover gaskets and tube seals, having them done is reasonable, since this is also a common leak problem (on both my Forester and my wife's 2003 Outback). I did these when I did my tuneup, since the old sparkplugs were covered in oil from the leaking tube seals.

Good luck!

Len

ateixeira

The first time I did what you wrote, the 2nd time I actually accessed the plugs from the bottom.

Doing it from the bottom is easier, you actually have more space for your ratchet.

babs6

Thanks Len, I'm very happy to read that someone has had luck with their replacement, there are SO MANY alarming posts of people who have had multiple failures, and related problems attributed to the driver's side failure. The service manager is asking his district or regional boss if they will replace both-so if they offer to do it, your opinion is not to have it done? I am more comfortable knowing if they refuse to do the passenger side, then perhaps there is still hope.
If ONLY the driver's side is replaced, should I be expecting so save $ on labor to replace the timing belt & water pump if done at the same time? Any ideas about what I should expect? I've been told that the water pump may be 1/2 to 1 hour extra labor if BOTH gaskets are placed and timing belt shouldn't be a labor issue.
Sorry for the long post/questions but this is really a chore to understand and I am trying not to lose faith in my car which up until recently i enjoyed very much. :confuse:

leo2633

I can't imagine that they would offer to do both sides, under warranty, if they aren't both leaking. I think that I would pass on replacing it if it weren't leaking. I don't think that the labor to do the timing belt is related to the headgasket job. However, if it is in for repairs anyway, and the timing belt is at or near it's replacement interval (105K miles), I'd probably get that done too.

Where you will save on labor is in having the water pump replaced while the timing belt is done, because the pump is right there when everything is taken apart for the belt. Ask them to replace the timing belt tensioner also. The part is about $100.00, as I recall, but it is subject to wear and the labor issue is the same as changing the timing belt.

Len

xwesx

Len, in order to pull the head off the engine, the timing belt must come off. So there would be zero extra labor to put on a new one (rather than reusing the old one) during installation. As for the water pump, it takes an additional 5-6 bolts to have that off and replaced when the timing belt is off. 1/2 hour to 1 hour? Sure, if they are excessively slow about it. More like 15 minutes. There are a whole lot of things you can have replaced on the engine while doing a head gasket job without adding any labor cost simply because one must dig into the engine so far to get to the gaskets. Camshaft seals, crank seal, oil pump.... almost no extra labor, if any, to replace or inspect any of these items.

leo2633

Wes,

You're right. I was trying to visualize the arrangement and remember what my mechanic explained to me when I had my work done, but I got it confused. I do remember asking about doing the second headgasket when the first one was leaking and was told that it wasn't necessary. I agree that I would change the timing belt any time I was in there for any other work.

Thanks for setting me straight on that, Wes, and sorry for the misleading info.

Len

babs6

Thanks so much for the help. I am still not clear and hope to be well informed before I speak again to the service manager.
The question I have is should pay additional labor charges for the timing belt if ONLY the drivers side is replaced?? The service manager led me to believe that they would charge close to regular labor hours for the timing belt if only one head gasket is done. Doesn't the timing belt come off for one head gasket replacement anyway? (quote was over $500 for the belt before the head gasket issue-water pump $150 or so more).

Any suggestions as to what would be a fair price for this additional work?
I really really do appreciate your help

Babs

jfl

The timing belt comes off regardless of one head gasket or two. So the labor should not be additional.

I agree with the above suggestions of changing the timing belt, water pump, and timing belt tensioner at the same time. Parts should run ~$300-$400. (Note: Installing a new timing belt tensioner is faster and easier, labor wise, than re-installing the old one.)

I'd say only the water pump might take additional labor...but look at that labor this way: if the waterpump is not changed and it breaks later, you will pay labor to remove the timing belt and waterpump in order to replace it. Much cheaper to pay for it now. I'd say 15-30 minutes tops for labor to change the pump now.

Hope it goes well,

Jim
(My head gasket repair happened one year after the tminig belt, wp, and tensioner replacement. So I had to pay twice for the labor anyway.)

xwesx

That is how I see it as well. Good luck with getting it set straight, Babs!

tim3

Greetings,

I have an 04 Forester. The headlights seem to be getting dimmer. I think because the inside of the lens are dirty and/or cloudy. I'd like to clean the inside with a plastic cleaner. However, I can't figure out how to get the lens off. Can anyone help?

Thanks.

xwesx

I am not sure the "lens" is something that comes off. Normally, one would apply the cleaner to the exterior of the surface for the best result, but if you already tried that and still have the interior foggy, then you might need new light assemblies with time.

ateixeira

It's a pain to remove the headlight. Try polishing the exterior surface.

If you have condenstation inside the headlights, the seals are probably bad, and you may have to replace them eventually. Plus it just looks ugly. :sick:

xwesx

It's a pain to remove the headlight.

juice, you are so modest.

Although, I found a way to remove BOTH headlights in less than a second. I do not recommend it, however.

tim3

Thanks for the responses. I should have actually tried cleaning the outside of the headlights with a plastics cleaner before asking the question. That seems to have taken care of it. While I haven't tried it at night yet, the headlights look MUCH cleaner.

Thanks again.

john176

Hi! I have to start by saying that many members here were really helpful a few months ago when I was trying to figure out if my Forester needed a new transmission or a new axle; everyone here was RIGHT that it was just an axle, and three different car places told us it was the transmission! Thanks!!! Anyway,we got that fixed but now it has a new problem. A few days ago I noticed immediately after putting it in drive that it was making a sound like a train. The sound starts slow and LOUD--you can almost feel some sort of thudding--and then picks up speed and decreases in loudness the faster I go, sometimes going away completely at about 60 mph. The noise is especially loud between 5 and 25 mph. It seems to be coming from the back right wheel area. No other symptoms, and the brakes don't seem to be related to it. Any ideas??? Thanks! Steph

peterb7

Colin

You sound like a wealth of knowledge. It is great to see someone like yourself who is willing to help others.
I have always spoke highly of Subarus...but now am losing my patience with Subaru staff. I have a 2000 Outback, I have a leak in my left hand head gasket (1 litre per 5 weeks) no overheating, no other problems. I can't find who supplies the coolant "conditioner" that prevents head leaks and fixes existing leaks? Can I drive 5000kms. more without getting a head gasket replacement if I look out specifically for overhaeting problems, or should I just get both head gaskets, water pump, spark plug rubber seals and other applicable gaskets and then go and chase Subaru for some money?
Thanks again.
peterb7

jeffmc

I can't handle the technical details, but I'd pursue a financial solution from Subaru before getting the work done. At least get the problem documented ASAP with Subaru at 1-800-782-2783 (before haggling with the dealer). Are you under the 100,000-mile limit Subaru extended the warranty to? You can search "Service Program WWP-99" online for more info, if you haven't seen it already.

Part number for the coolant conditioner is "SOA 635071", should be available from online Subie places like allsubaru.comAlso, I believe if your problem has been diagnosed & you do not add the conditioner, the extended warranty coverage is voided, so I'd definitely get that added at a dealership so it's documented (or at least keep your receipt if you order it yourself!).

Good luck.

hypov

The engine finally throws a CEL.
It's about time.

P0301; P0302; P0303; and P0304.

Misfiring on all 4 cylinders :sick:

-Dave

ateixeira

Those sounds like classis symptoms of a failing wheel bearing. Rear passenger side to be specific.

ateixeira

Ignition coil, Dave. Mine threw a P030x code and that's what fixed it. Remember I had that chipmunk chewing up all my under hood wires? :sick:

If it were just one cylinder, I might say the plugs or plug wires, but all 4 at once?

There's one single ignition coil for all 4 cylinders, and that's what provides the spark.

It lists for only $80 or so, so I'd try that first. I might do the plugs and wires at the same time, anyway.

hypov

Buddy here at work have the AccessPort and those are the codes. All four of 'em. The OBD sure took its sweet time to throw a CEL. The car had been running oddly the last 2 weeks and all this time nothing until today, when it started to act up in the morning. The first time ever in the morning.

I wonder if your chipmunk made its way north to Brooklyn?

-Dave

brodtie

I also have a 05LGT. Mine with 25k on it. I started to hear a noise yesterday as it shifts through 1st, 2nd, and 3rd at about 4k rpm. My light hasn't come on yet, but i was wondering what kind of noise you were hearing. Mine is a knocking noise.

ateixeira

Perhaps, I caught him in the act several times! I'd open the door, and hear some scrambling, then the chip munk running out from the bottom of my engine bay.

Subaru must baste the wires in some kind of sauce or something.

Pic shows actual damage on the wires, and by the way that's the ignition coil (has "Diamond" written on it) that those 4 wires connect to. It sits right on top of the engine towards the front. $80.

orangelebaron

Tonight on the highway, the check engine light came on along with the cruise control light flashing on and off.
I got fuel earlier, but the cap is clicked closed. I pressed the cruise switch every which way, clicked the gas cap and restarted the car 3 times and still there.

Any ideas? An electrical problem or a failed sensor? :confuse:

paisan

It takes about 5-10 warm up/cool down cycles for a gas cap CEL to go away.

-mike

orangelebaron

well... I disconnected the battery and reconnected it... it's ok now. Thanks

leo2633

Sounds similar to the symptoms my 2001 Forester had when the alternator went bad.

Len

pathtomax

Hello,

It is always fun to try to describe what is going on in your car, so I will try my best.

I got into my 01 Outback today after it was sitting since Friday. As I was driving, just about 10 mph, I could hear a thumping sound in the right, front end of the car. Almost like I had something stuck in the tire. I got out to check, and could see nothing. I took off again and the whole front of the car started to shake VIOLENTLY. I got out again to inspect, nothing. It drove like that for a little bit, feeling like I was driving with a FLAT TIRE. Thump, Thump, then it smoothed out as I got going faster.

It seems better now, but I *think* something feel out from underneath my car- small, black, rubber-looking.

Any ideas???

snowbelter

I have an 07 LLBean,3.0. I find that even using 93 or 91 octane gas (name brands), the engine sometimes pings on light to moderate acceleration. Been to the dealer twice and it hasn't pinged when they test drove it (with me in the car). They tell me that they haven't checked for any codes because it won't throw a code unless the check engine light has gone on, and it hasn't.

Anyone have a similar problem or any thoughts?

Martin

ateixeira

The tire may have flat-spotted from sitting too long in one parked spot. Could it have?

saedave

I would very carefully inspect the right front tire for tread separation or damage.

paisan

Sounds like an under-inflated tire or a tire with a slow leak that got a flat spot on it. I'd start with checking the pressures.

-mike

samiam_68

Maybe the wheel weight fell off. Try rebalancing the tire.

hypov

or by fluke your wheel isn't torqued flushed to the hub.

-Dave

rallyfan

I WAS QUOTE APR. 19900 FOR A NEW 07 LEGACY WAGON SE AND THEY STILL CLAIM IT HAS A 5 SPD MANUAL PS NON TURBO 7AC MODEL THANKS RALLYFAN

jeffmc

7AC is the code for Legacy SE sedan, which is available as a manual. That's too much for a manual SE sedan, by at least $1000, by the way.

xwesx

I agree that is the most likely problem. Let us know if that does not fix it.

pathtomax

I am sitting in the dealership now and they are working on the brakes.

I have to say, my one complaint about my 01 Outback is that the brakes/rotors etc. are my biggest headache. This, just after they quoted me $400 to replace everything

aviboy97

I have a 2002 Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS with 64K on it. I have had a few issues, all resolved to date (head gaskets, fuel lines, intake manifold cracked, loose heat shield, center console electrical problem). Now, I have a recurring problem that is starting to tick me off. The CEL. It has been going on and off for quite some time now. I brought it into my dealer (I work for a Mazda dealer, and we also have a Subaru store). However, every time I bring it in, the CEL goes off before I get there. I thought it may be the gas cap. I make sure it is tight every time I fill up with gas. Any thoughts??

jay_24

The rear seat (drive side) is starting to rattle in my 2001 OB wagon. It seems to be the latch to hold the seat in the up-right position isn't as tight as it could be. Is there an adjustment for it? Any other ways (cheap) to make it tighter or at least rattle free?

--jay

anythngbutgm

Hey guys, I was wondering, when I pump the gas on my Impreza after it's been running for a while (usually after a long highway commute) I get what sounds like backfire coming from the exhaust of my Impreza wagon. It's not the backfire "BANG!" that I would nrmally associate, more of a pop-burble above idle. Could I be due for an early exhaust replacement, serious engine problem or just the characteristic of this car?

Any help is greatly appreciated

07' Impreza 2.5i wagon... (11,000 miles)

jeffmc

Oxy sensor? Doesn't a code get recorded for diagnosis even if the CEL goes back off?

ateixeira

The computer still stores a code. Hook up an ODB2 scanner and get us the code, then we'll know more.

hypov

A turn or two with electrical tape helps.
Don't over do. Two turns was enough to make the seat on my WRX wagon latch snug.

-Dave

bzribee

Hi--I'm looking at buying an 'o8 auto Forester at a great price. I love the vehicle but on the test drive I noticed a slight sound (described above). The salesman felt it sounded like water--to me it was more like gravel or sand--not a lot, and not all the time.

Should I be alarmed? I know I'll be pressured to buy right away when I go in, and it is a GREAT price, but I don't want to be stuck. And sadly, the dealership has TERRIBLE ratings in all the reviews I"ve found on line (especially service) which makes me very nervous about buying there. Any thoughts would be really helpful.

There is also an 08 manual but the price isn't as good. I sure enjoyed driving both of them...

ateixeira

Can you test drive a different one? There's no way I'd drive home in something that already had a noticeable (and annoying) problem.

jeffmc

Take your great price quote to another dealership that does have a good reputation. No sense giving a questionable dealer your business, and most places will match or beat a quote.