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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • w8ifiw8ifi Posts: 78
    You are right there Steve. On some cars I've had there was quite a bit of clearance between the hood and the HVAC intake allowing air from the engine compartment to flow over the grid. Even then it's a rare occurance, with snow consistency, humidity, temperature , wind direction,speed all just right for it to happen. I don't have a garage and every time I turn my back my two cars have a contest to see how many pine needles, maple seeds, pollen particles, seed coatings they can store in that air intake. The squirrels are always circling around.(maybe they think I'm nuts?)
    Jim :confuse:
  • w8ifiw8ifi Posts: 78
    Yeah,....I've done that too...

    Jim :)
  • w8ifiw8ifi Posts: 78
    Does anyone have any recommendations as to a reliable, reasonable Subaru new parts supplier? I see I have "" in my favorites. I think some people on these boards have been satisfied with them. Any others that people have used? I might need a source and don't want to wait till I have a problem. Most local repair shops here just call a subaru dealer for a part and they aren't too eager to send them promptly. The dealer wants to do it themselves. In fact I don't mind having a dealer do it if I feel I won't get taken advantage of. The place I have had do work for the last 23 years just shut down. So now I'm looking at alternatives. Jim
  • jeffmcjeffmc Posts: 1,742 has been good for me.
  • w8ifiw8ifi Posts: 78
    Thanks Jeff.....I looked at both sites to see where they were located. I finally determined that they were located in Washington. I checked the area code on the fax number for subaruparts. Funny that neither site shows where their main office is located. It's not necessary cause I think they have warehouses in more than one location in the U.S.
    I would think that whoever designed their website would have given that some degree of importance though. Thanks again Jeff.....
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,775

    I think it is quite intentional. Most of these sites are medium sized dealerships that open up an internet store to move merchandise quickly and make some extra cash. They don't really want their traditional customers to know. How would their walk-in customers feel about paying list at the counter when they can use their computer from the local Dunkin Doughnuts and order the same item from the same counter at a 20-25% discount?

  • toboggantoboggan Posts: 283
    Ran the OBW through a car wash (had to turn off the radio to lower the antenna). After several blocks remembered to turn radio back on. Antenna didn't come up. Hmm, that's happened before when it's been cold. Got home and parked in the garage. Used small screw driver to pry antenna up (done this before). Used a hair dryer to warm antenna up to hopefully dry out any moisture. Sprayed silicone on antenna. Turned radio off, antenna lowered just fine. Turned on radio, antenna didn't come back up. :cry:

    Previously followed the above steps with no problem. Time to buy a replacement antenna?? And where on-line to get one for a decent price?


  • w8ifiw8ifi Posts: 78
    Good explanation!!! Makes sense to me.
    Jim :)
  • w8ifiw8ifi Posts: 78
    If your garage is warm, I would just give it a few days to dry out a little more before I would replace.

  • jeffmcjeffmc Posts: 1,742
    Jim- is affiliated with Carter Subaru near Seattle. (nation's #4 sales volume Subie dealer for '06, I think.) For me, I'd rather order online and pickup at the dealer than pay for shipping, but they can't let me do that and still give me their online pricing. Oh well.
  • I had a strange noise(between a whistle and a ring) behind my dash for a while. I thought it was my speedometer freezing or something. Well, it finally stopped, but when it did, I lost the illumination on the dash, as well as my tail lights. The tail lights still work when i use the parking lights. I've been told it may be a relay. Any suggestions?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I've used, and they even accepted Subaru Bucks as payment.

    Catch is, I'm searching now, and they don't seem to have the illustrations they used to have, so I'm not sure I'm getting the right parts. Weird.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Steve - my Miata's power antennae went bad and I just replaced it with a $10 whip antennae from Wal Mart. 5 years later I've never had a problem.

  • toboggantoboggan Posts: 283
    Warm? Come on, I live in the frozen northland of Duluth, MN (just got 12.3" of snow, more today) :P And no heater in the garage. So far it has been 40 degrees several days last week. Still didn't work. :cry:

    I'm in no rush to replace the antenna as the radio still appears to have good reception. We'll see when we go down to the Twin Cities this Wednesday.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,775
    Ask for the parts manager, and have a quiet, private discussion with him. I have received an approx 20% counter discount at both my Honda and Subaru dealer. I brought in a copy of the internet pricing including shipping on the items I wanted, and asked them to match. Both places agreed to special order items for counter pickup at comparable prices.

    I spent over $500 on the Subi (hitch kit, front deflector, security system upgrade), and better than $1200 (hitch kit, front deflector, cross bars, radio upgrade, cargo tray, etc.) on the Honda this way. Never be afraid to ask! You did it on the car, why not at the parts counter?

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    And they always take Subaru Bucks on the spot.

    I may do that since I can't see pictures of the stuff I wanted on the on-line stores.

  • I posted this on the "regular" board but wondered if any of the experts here had heard about it. We have had an '07 Outback iwagon for a month and it has started very slowly when temps hit the teens or below. Yesterday at a ski resort (we live in Colorado) my wife had trouble getting it to start at all. I had replaced the battery two weeks ago, fyi. I called the dealer and here is what i was told:

    1) A slower start is typical of Subarus, 2) they are aware of a problem Subaru's have at high altitudes starting, and hope that Subaru of America will issue a fix but so far they have not, 3) if it happens again, try starting the car with the gas halfway down, and if that doesn't work, all the way down (just don't pump). The dealer said they think it has to do with programming in the car's computer chip.

    Has anyone ever heard of this? I realize that since we live in Colorado we might be in the minority of owners to face this apparent problem. I wish I had heard of it earlier. Thanks.
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    I actually tried that with my local parts department, but not the parts manager. They would not budge off of list price. Their loss.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    If this was a widespread or known issue, I am sure we would have heard about it here (especially since there are tons of Subarus around ski country in Colorado), but yours is the first case I am aware of.

    The highest I have had my Subarus was 4850ft elevation, not nearly as high as the ski areas in CO. But at that elevation I never noticed any issues. Maybe some folks with higher elevation experience can chime in.
  • jeffmcjeffmc Posts: 1,742
    Good idea, Steve. I should do that.
  • I called SOA and they assigned a case number to this. The rep I talked to said they had no info on it. Yet the dealer was very familiar with it. I might call some other area dealers and see if they also know about it. The one interesting thing the SOA rep said was that changing the programming parameters would "require EPA approval." That sounds like the beginning of a "Yeah, we could do it but it would be too much hassle" response to me. There are indeed lots of Subarus in the area. I'm not sure that doesn't mean that this particular model and trim and year doesn't have a problem at altitude and no one has really pursued it. I plan on doing so.
  • fibber2fibber2 Mid Hudson Valley, NYPosts: 3,775
    You now have this question running in two threads. I answered you over in the Outback/Legacy Maint & Repair section.

  • I am back. after fixing my battery/alarm a coup0le of weeks ago, i now have finally killed my exhaust system. it has been getting loud over the past year, and now is rumbling my car. Does anyone know a rough estimate of the cost to fix the entire exhaust system? i was quoted almost $900 over the summer (i live in Boston). I have no bearings here.
  • thscoltsthscolts Posts: 2
    Hi, we bought this 1995 subaru in October 2006. At that time, the driver's door would only lock with the key. About a month ago, the same thing happened with the passenger door. Well today I couldn't get back in the car on the driver's side. I could not get the door to open no matter what. So I climbed in through the passenger side and drove home. Once home, I STILL couldn't open the door! Had my son try using a key from the outside, I tried from the inside. Ended up having to exit through the passenger door. Is this a known problem? Any suggestions on fixing it???
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,870
    Sounds like maybe door pulls disconnected from the latch mechanism, or it froze up for some reason. On that vintage of Subaru, it was required that you lift the exterior door handle to lock the door. If the handle was not attached properly, then lifting and closing would not prevent the door from unlocking.

    I have not heard of that problem in a Subaru before, so very strange that it happened on both sides of the car (though the passenger side does still open!).

    If it is disconnected, you should be able to get to it by taking off the cladding on the inside of the door. Of course, if you cannot open the door then that might be tricky in itself!
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • denver5357denver5357 Posts: 319
    Saw that - thanks. I would have it in additional relevant threads if there were any. I'm looking for all the advice and anecdotal info I can get.
  • thscoltsthscolts Posts: 2
    Thanks for your response. The sooby is at the shop now. Neither of us has the time right now (or probably the skills) to fix the problem. Soo...hoping it doesn't cost big bucks.
  • amsbearamsbear Posts: 147

    My 98 OBW Ltd antenna finally stopped retracting also. It started just getting stuck mid-way in cold/icy weather but a little lock deicer did the trick temporarily.

    I took it out and disassembled it and I saw that the inner plastic rod has snapped and therefore not get pulled down. However, it can be manually pushed down.

    Still, I'd like to get a replacement but none of the online sites that I've found carry it. Let me know if you have any luck finding it.


    98 OBW Ltd (~130,000 miles)
  • rondo320rondo320 Posts: 10
    Had a clicking sound just before my engine started. The shop replaced the starter relay but it didn't help. They then replaced the ignition switch which took care of the problem except that my car would not start after sitting in the airport parking lot for 3 days. I got a jump and took it back to the shop where they tested it and found no drains on the system.
    After another sit in the airport parking lot, I was driving home and the battery light came on followed by a few others like the ABS and airbag lights followed by the wipers going crazy eventhough the switch was off. The entire electrical system failed and I coasted to a stop on the freeway shoulder.
    I gave up on the shop and replaced the 50amp fusible link myself and seven fuses that were blown as well as the alternator which seemed to be the cause of the shutdown. I replaced the ignition coil because it was only firing the back two cylinders. That didn't help. Before I assume that the computer was fried, is there something simpler that is causing the front two cylinders not to get a spark? It's not the plugs or the wires because they checked OK. Any suggestions?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    When you replaced the alternator, did you charge the battery up with a charger or just use the new alternator to charge the battery?

    Whenever you replace the alternator and you have run your battery down dead you need to charge your battery with a charger rather than the alternator. I had this problem on my 94 legacy. I blew the alternator and ran on the battery til it died. Then replaced the alternator, jumped the car and thought all was good. A day or 2 later, the alternator died. Apparently it cooked itself from trying to charge the completely dead battery.

    So I bought a new battery and alternator and all has been good for 30k miles more.

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