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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • daysailerdaysailer Posts: 720
    actually, there are several neighbors in wi-fi range with unprotected portals, but that's not ethical.
  • subearusubearu Posts: 3,613
    while it might not be ethical to "share" their 'net, they outta be more responsible and secure their network. If you're wi-fi savvy, help 'em secure it and ask that they share it as your payment.

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Speeding is unethical and illegal.... :)

  • daysailerdaysailer Posts: 720
    Illegal yes. Unethical? not necessarily.
  • just_philjust_phil Posts: 86
    That's funny, but true. Whenever my wife asks me about what I've been doing for the last 3 hours, I tell her: "Honey, it's these 4 lines of text".
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    OK, then, posting on these boards during work hours is unethical.

    Gotcha. :D

    (I'm one to talk!)
  • caliberchiccaliberchic Posts: 402
    :D Ha ha! Isn't that the truth!
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,385
    My Legacy shop manual was available in "volumes" so you don't need to buy the whole thing at $276. I started out with three of the eight volumes.

  • sixtystackssixtystacks Posts: 17
    Thx Susan - the OEM radio on my 2002 has been replaced but still runs hot; when the backlight would stay on after car turned off - I pulled the fuse. Subaru seems bored with the problem
  • bertus24bertus24 Posts: 8
    My WRX doesnt want to start despite changing the batteries 3 times, no lights go on inside the car, no radio, no roof lights, nothing. Last week I was still able to jump start it bu the next morning there was nothing.
    What can be the problem.
    Please help.

    Bertus :cry:
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    Bad alternator?
  • bertus24bertus24 Posts: 8
    But will this cause all power to be cut off? I mean, i have no power whatsoever....... :cry:
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Sure, if the alternator is dead, then it will only take about 1-2hrs of drivetime to run down your battery and not allow it to start and not allow it to have any power to the lights/dash.

    Another possibility is a bad ground wire as well. Check the connections on the battery.

  • rondo320rondo320 Posts: 10
    Like Mike said check the ground wire but not just at the battery but also where it connects to the body. If that isn't it take it to a competent auto electric shop that has a reputation for finding problems and not just selling batteries.
  • cusafrcusafr Posts: 184
    As others have said, check the ground wire.

    Also, could be the key switch.

  • bertus24bertus24 Posts: 8
    Thanks Guys for all your help, i did do all the above accept Mr.cusafr's before posting this thread, but i found the problem, the Main Fuse is faulty, yesterday i bridge the main fuse with a paper clip and what do you know I have lights again. Need to go buy a new one.

    Thanks guys, much appreciated. ;)
  • daysailerdaysailer Posts: 720
    Can anyone tell me the easiest way to disable the "key-minder" chime? Since the car has a remote entry fob I can imagine no reason to lock the car manually, rendering the chime an annoyance without benefit.
  • cusafrcusafr Posts: 184
    A Fuse! Sometimes we try to fix difficult problems, when the problem/solution is the simple fix. Lesson learned (Again).

  • saedavesaedave Chicago, ILPosts: 694
    You might want to check the wiring for worn insulation near a ground or other things that could have caused the fuse to open. I suspect no-reason fuse failure is rare.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    I agree, the blown fuse is probably another symptom or side effect of the real problem (or caused by careless jump start procedures). Some of the previous stuff you described, bertus24, is not consistent with the main fuse being *the* problem. For instance, the previous times you started/jumped and ran the car with all lights functioning -- that would not have been possible if the main fuse was blown.
  • bertus24bertus24 Posts: 8
    I think it might had to do with the fact that I jumped start the car and the on side of the jumper pop loose and made a short on the other car while the jumper was still on my car... :D
  • sherminshermin Posts: 1
    Can anyone tell me where the fuel filter is on the 05 FXT and if its something someone with a moderate amount of experience should try to replace?
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    But isn't the "key-minder" chime to remind you that you still have your key in the ignition?
    You wouldn't want to leave your igintion key in the car, locked or unlocked, would you?

  • rondo320rondo320 Posts: 10
    This is an update to all those who tried to help me on my problem in #16997 and for all those who might have a similar problem. My 96 OBW died on the way home from the airport. It was a complete electrical system failure, that started with lights on the instrument panel coming on one at a time, battery, abs etc. then the car lights and radio increased in intensity and decreased to correspond to engine RPMs. The wipers came on without the switch being on and self destructed. Shortly thereafter everything went dead and I coasted to a stop on the freeway.
    Had it towed to the shop but I didn't want to spend a whole lot of money on the car. He did some analysis but wasn't much help so I brought it home and have been working on it since then. I have learned a lot that might help you if this happens to you.
    I replaced the burned out 45 amp fusible link and 8 fuses and the wiper motor. I replaced the alternator and checked the battery but the car was still running on only two cylinders. The front two were dead. Thought it was the ignition coil but a new one didn't help. Bought a computer at the junk yard but that didn't help. Got some advice about the ignitor which is a small 2x2 inch box on the firewall. Despite being told that they never go bad that was it and I was running on all 4 cylinders. But before I could celebrate I found that the alternator was not charging the battery. We took the new alternator off and had it tested. It was good. Checked the battery. No problem.
    My original repair person had told me that if the bulb on the instrument panel was burned out that the control circuit would not allow the alternator to charge. I didn't think much of that theory but through the help of a more talented friend than me, we bypassed the circuit with a functioning bulb in the line (don't just use a wire or you can cause more damage) and it started charging.
    After taking the instrument panel apart I searched for replacement bulbs. I went to two auto stores and got #74 bulbs but both were different and both would not fit. I checked the dealer who wanted $10 a piece because they are sold with the base. I checked a local bulb distributor who had them at $.96 a piece. The right size is 74 N probably for NARROW because that is the difference from the regular 74. Now the alternator is charging.
    I have two problems left that I know of. The engine fan runs continually. After replacing the fuse for the fan, we started pulling relays and found the one that controls it to be above the fuse box that's below the instrument panel.
    The other problem is that the cassette mechanism on the radio runs all the time without a tape inserted so I had to disconnect the radio to stop it. I think that is what is blocking out the radio and CD from functioning. This is a minor issue now that the car is running.
    All I got to say is thank God for junk yards because Subaru dealers and parts departments are grotesquely expensive and when you have an unusual problem it's tough not to start throwing parts at the problem. All in all I spent $170 on parts I didn't need but that would have been a drop in the bucket had I had the dealer fix this problem.
    The biggest issue is what caused this problem in the first place. In trouble shooting I discovered a faulty ground. This was where the black wire from the battery connects to the body. That may have been it. I don't know. Or the alternator may have given out since the car has 130,000 miles.
    Thanks to all of you who had suggestions for me. And I hope some of this info might help in the future.
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    Thanks for the follow-up and all the details. That is definitely quite an experience you went through but I am really encouraged to hear that the car is running well again. Whatever the failure was, sounds like it was quite destructive!

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    05 FXT fuel filter is a non-serviceable part and is located within the fuel tank. IIRC the tank needs to be dropped to get to it, although you may be able to get to it from the topside.

  • daysailerdaysailer Posts: 720
    "You wouldn't want to leave your igintion key in the car, locked or unlocked, would you? "

    No, but I often want to leave the key in the ignition while the driver's door is open, as when working on the car or waiting in the car.
  • tinanneetinannee Posts: 1
    New problem as of last night: The driver's door won't open from the inside. If I roll down the window, I can reach out and grab the exterior handle and it opens fine (or someone outside can open it fine).

    It just happened all of the sudden. I was idling & opened both the driver's & front passenger's doors. I closed the doors & then I couldn't open the driver's door again from the inside. All other doors work fine. In my troubleshooting, I once closed the dr door, but not fully. Even then, I couldn't open it back up from the inside. Are there child locks on the driver's door?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    No, only the back doors.

    Search Scooby Mods on how to remove the door panel. I bet a cable broke loose or something.
  • jeqqjeqq Posts: 221
    I have an '06 Forester LL Bean. I just started hearing an intermittent low rattle, sounds like a pipe is loose. Any suggestions and yes I will be taking it in.
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