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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • jeffmcjeffmc Posts: 1,742
    Are you still within the bumper-to-bumper warranty period? If so, I'd let the dealer take the time to figure it out. :shades:
  • jay_24jay_24 Posts: 536
    I can get the tail to slide out easy on my 2001 OB wagon (auto). It just requires a good push on the gas. However that push is a good hard push and you need to try and make it happen. I think with the auto tranny its easier to make happen since the car is much more FWD based and then the power shifts to the back. Push on the gas hard and the power shifts quickly.

    I grew up driving a RWD Olds station wagon from the 70's in the snow belt of northern WI. Never got stuck in the snow with that old battleship. So having the tail wag a little doesn't bother me much.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,314
    I can get the tail to slide out easy on my 2001 OB wagon (auto). It just requires a good push on the gas. However that push is a good hard push and you need to try and make it happen.

    Yes, I absolutely agree. It is easy to get the car to tail wag, but you have to want to make it happen. I found it to be far easier on my MT Outback with the 50/50 split than the AT, at least at speeds greater than a slow 90-degree turn, but either transmission type will allow it. The manual, with the rear LSD, was sure a lot of fun. :D

    Anyway, the point is that there is not an instability issue created that would come into play during an emergency maneuver. These cars are highly controllable in emergencies: VDC or none.
    2008 and 2010 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • So what is CU doing "wrong"?

    They keep complaining about this issue with Legacy and Outback, though they do say the new VDC helps (but also that it's slow to respond).
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,314
    Most likely just a matter their drivers simply have an expectation that is not being met. Maybe they like to goose the throttle as they turn from one road to the next. Hard to say, really. How does it take them 10.8 seconds to reach 60 mph unless they are loafing along? Granted, that time is realistic for an average jaunt from a light, but that same car can make the run seconds faster. The folks at CU know quite a few consumers stake great weight on their opinions, so they are sure to give those opinions liberally. Consumers who really want to know look at a variety of sources and/or they find out for themselves.

    People have different expectations of cars. I drive a GM or Toyota and it feels numb and unrewarding yet these manufacturers sell millions of cars to people who actually prefer that. My brother drove my '08 Outback while we were on a whirlwind trip to Lake Tahoe and back two months ago, and his first statement was that the steering felt stiff and the ride was a little rough. 30 minutes worth of driving later, and he did not want to give up the driver seat! After driving his own car again when we returned to his home, he said his car made him feel "isolated." He has a 2001 Hyundai XG300. I just smiled; his car sure is comfy, though.

    I am sure the VDC is slow to respond in a similar fashion as reactive AWD is slow to respond. It is a reactive system. Something has to happen before it can correct it.
    2008 and 2010 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Pasian, will the next Outback grow in size a lot? I'd hate to see it pass the 190 inch length mark.

    No sure of the actual increase but it will be on the tribeca platform/footprint, so I would think it'll be bigger than 190 in, I certainly hope so.

    The current 08+ Impreza is just about the same size as the current legacies/outbacks so it would be kinda dumb for them to keep it the same size.

  • The current 08+ Impreza is just about the same size as the current legacies/outbacks so it would be kinda dumb for them to keep it the same size

    Makes sense.
    I hope the Impreza gets some tweeks in the second half of '08. If the WRX gets a 5 spd auto and a power seat option (ala the Forester premium pack), that would be enough for me.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Well, CR thinks Subaru's VDC is too slow to act. But if you tune it to act quickly, like, say, Toyota does its VSC system, then C&D complains that it acts like a nanny and doesn't let you have any fun.

    So Subaru leans towards what C&D would prefer, as opposed to CR. It's more enthusiast friendly.

    I wouldn't call it right or wrong, just a preference.

    Subaru does specifically state that they let the AWD systems act first, before stability control intervenes.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That reminds me of a VERY funny story.

    C&D had a comparo of four AWD vehicles, one being the Outback VDC, the first year it came out. Back then it didn't have an "off" switch, and it was tuned to intervene more aggressively.

    So in C&D's test, they hit the off switch on the other 3 cars and ran all the cars around a snow course.

    Get this - they crashed ALL 3 OTHER CARS, and not the Subaru. The VDC Outback was the only one of the four with no body damage. And with stability control active. Coincidence? Doubtful.

    Any how, they proceeded to put the Outback in dead last place, and still complained about the intrusiveness of the stability control. :mad:

    It's a true story. Go to a library and search back issues if you want to read about it.

    CR wants the safest possible tuning, even if it's boring. C&D wants to have fun drifting with no intervention from the electronic nannies, even if they wreck every single car in the fleet in the process.
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    C&D wants to have fun drifting with no intervention from the electronic nannies, even if they wreck every single car in the fleet in the process.

    How fun would it be do drive and trash vehicles that you are not responsible for?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Note to self: never buy former press fleet vehicles! :D
  • machiusmachius Posts: 28
    Hi - What should I expect to pay for the 60,000 mile service on a '00 Outback? I was just quoted $460 by a nearby dealer. Is that reasonable? I'm in the North Texas area.

    Thanks so much. Best - MM
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    depends on what's included. What do they include for $460?

  • steverstever Posts: 52,573
    I was quoted $350 here in Boise not long ago at an indy shop for my '97 Outback. The dealer quoted $800 and wanted to do an unnecessary timing belt change.

    $350 was right in line with the estimate that the Edmunds Maintenance Guide kicked out for my zip code.
  • mdshatmdshat Posts: 3
    i got home from a few month long trip about a week ago and havent driven my car since. i had a friend start it a few times while i was gone and he said that only once did he have to jump it, but he couldnt drive it after that bcause it had developed a flat tire. i got the tire replaced and went to drive it and had to jump it. it was fine the next few times i started it after that. then after an hour of not driving it, it needed to be jumped. when i was driving my battery and brake light came on, but only while i accelerated or put my high beams on. then it just turned off...i thought that it was just being weird becuase before i left i got new sensors put in. it jumped fine that time and i went on my way...the battery light didnt come on this time. then i went to start it again and it wouldnt. we tried jumping it and it would turn over ("click") but wouldn't start. i came to the conclusion that it could be the battery and i took it to auto zone and they said that it wouldnt hold charge, so i put a new one in and it is still doing the same thing. all of the interior lights in the car are working and its turning over so i have no idea what the problem could be.

    any ideas?
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Posts: 775
    You need to fully charge your battery. Go on a long trip during the day with headlights off.
  • jeffmcjeffmc Posts: 1,742
    But a new battery should be fully charged, shouldn't it? :confuse: Do you think the new battery is old inventory?
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    They checked the old battery and determined that it wasn't holding any charge.
    Did they check the alternator if it is giving 13 volt or better charge to the battery?

  • samiam_68samiam_68 Posts: 775
    Oops... missed the part where a new battery was purchased. My bad. In that case, there may be a short somewhere or the alternator is not charging.
  • jhnsn4jhnsn4 Posts: 5
    Thanks, jeffmc, but out of warranty - we bought the car used with 10K miles on it.
    Last Sunday my daughter came home w/ car, I plugged the fuse in, and now the noise is gone. I checked on alldata website, and thought it mite be the keyless buzzer since there is a tech bulletin out on that for years 03MY & 04MY (MY must be mfg site), but that buzzer is located behind the grille, driver's side. This was a similar noise, but wrong locale. If it comes back, I will inform this group, especially if I find a answer. Thanks, jeffmc!! :)
  • Well upon digging deep into my non-starting engine, I found broken intake and exhaust valves on the #3 cylinder, resulting in a nearly seized engine. I found a used engine with 48K miles at a recycler in Wisconsin and have it on the way.

    I'm using a Haynes manual to R&R the engine. Decent information, but it's the first time I've been past the timing cover on a Subaru, and it's all pretty new to me. The last engine I swapped was a 400M in a 4X4 Ford pickup.

    What are your recommendations for essentials to replace when I put in the new (to me) engine? Any way to verify actual mileage on the replacement engine? Any gremlins or hiccups I need to watch out for?

    Thanks for any help you can provide,

  • eckesveckesv Posts: 1
    Every time I turn off the car I loose radio and clock , I have a '95 legacy - I've checked the fuses under the dash,hood - everything was OK - somebody told me to check fuse #20, there is no #20 fuse. I'm lost HELP
  • hypovhypov Posts: 3,068
    The clock and radio always turn off when you turn off the engine.
    You got to turn the key to accessories position to turn power on.

  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    I think they meant the clock resets and the radio presets are lost.
  • I have a Subaru legacy 93'. My car's lock has locked up (<_< go figure), not allowing me to lock it, and Im trying to remove the interior trim to fix it. I got all the popoff screws & regular screws off and now the trim is being held on by the lock/handle case (The thing that is behind the lock and handle that makes it look fancyier). Any idea how to get the caseing out so the trim is no longer hanging on it so I can fix the lock?

    The Haynes manual is useless as it tells nothing about automatic locks & windows...
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Posts: 775
    Look closely - there may be a screw in that bezel that holds it, or it might pop off if you pry gently with a screwdriver.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,573
    In the Auto Repair Reference Center that I can access online through my library, it shows a "cover" with three tabs. One tab is on the center left side where the latch is and the other two are on the top and bottom on the right half of the cover. There is a screw holding the inner remote assembly in place but it appears to be behind the cover. My guess is that you just press the tabs in to release the cover.

    Here's a funky diagram that may help.
  • tim3tim3 Posts: 28
    04 Forester X MT, 73K, owned since new.

    Heading down an 8% mountain grade for several miles, I shift down to 4th to take advantage of engine braking and the temp gauge steadily drops all the way down to C. At the bottom of the grade, I shift back to 5th and the gauge rises back to its normal position. This happens every time I downshift to go down a mountain grade. Outside temp is in the low 60s. Car runs excellent otherwise, including going up mountain grades.

    This may or may not be related: A month ago at the start of a 3,200 road trip, the car started heating up going up a mountain grade. The Subaru dealer diagnosed the problem as a bad radiator cap and replaced it. I also had the dealer replace the drive belts. No problems over the next 4,000 miles &#150; including mountain driving &#150; until the problem above crops up this weekend.

    Any ideas, Subaru gurus?

  • iggsoiggso Posts: 28
    The Security light is flashing when the alarm is turned off or turned on. Only when the car is started it turns off.

    Is this normal or should something be done to reset that. (How?)
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,314
    That is normal. I think it is supposed to be a theft deterrent. Unless the key is turned in the ignition, the security light blinks.
    2008 and 2010 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
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