Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • smudgejetsmudgejet Posts: 11

    What are your symptoms? Do you have hives, chronic cough, or some other symptom? I have not heard of others in such dire straights as you.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Posts: 1,798
    For those having fogging or odor issues with the Subaru heating system, try this after the vehicle is thoroughly warmed up:

    1. Open all your windows (or the moonroof, if you have one)
    2. Make sure A/C is off
    3. Put heater system on the highest temperature
    4. Let run at full or nearly full fan for 15 minutes.

    The idea is to heat the gaskets and other components to assist their outgassing.

    Subaru has reported that the outgassing diminishes over time - this process will greatly speed it up.

    If you get deposits on the windshield, either Stoners or Megriuers window cleaners will remove them.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Baton Rouge, LAPosts: 218
    Unit is a 97 Subaru Legacy Brighton, 2.2 Liter. Base model AWD. Service point, 235K-240K. Service performed. Clutch replacement, rear main seal replaced, rear "O" ring oil galley and Oil gallery cover and gasket replaced. Major sources of oil leaks in higher mileage units.

    On reassembly of unit, boots to steering rack replaced, half shafts replaced with reman units. All wheel bearings replaced with full synthetic grease.

    After a 1000 miles, a springing noise developed which was traced to passenger side half shaft unit being excessive sloppy on the half shaft output shaft from differential section of transaxle. Also noted more play on drivers side.

    Any one else out there run into this problem and if so, what did you find to rectify the problem? We have replaced these shafts with A1 cardone Select new units. 66-7055. Time will tell if that resolves it. New units are larger in size and much heavier than OEM units. I suspect OEM units may be too small for service.

    Older service units had developed similar problems over past time. This one being the 4th one required further inspection after seeing a common case come up.
  • I want to find out if other 2008 Impreza owners (normally aspirated powertrain) with auto trans are experiencing engine ping in a variety of acceleration situations? High octane gas has made no difference. This is the rattling sound that sounds like dice in a cup. Engine pings when car shifts into 3rd and 4th gear, pings when I'm accelerating up a hill or freeway ramp, even pings when I pull away from a stopsign on level ground. More pronounced in warm weather. Disappears pretty quickly but reappears when accelerating. Dealer has been no help so far in diagnosing - say they "can't replicate the problem." Pinging started when car only had 1000 mi. on it - it has 12k now. Does this have anything to do with the drive by wire system, or ecu or what? Any help appreciated - I will be making my 3rd trip to the dealer on Monday. Thanks.
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    Well folks,

    I drove to New York and back with the Lucas stuff in the tank. With the Lucas, I went 459.9 miles on 18.45 gallons. That yielded a 24.92 mpg rating. Prior to that I went 531.5 miles on 22.18 gallons. That yield was 23.96 mpg.

    The engine runs a little smoother. Though there is a slight miss from time to time. Also, for the last few months, I have notice what I think is piston slap or some knocking at idle. It disappears above 2400 rpms. After the engine is running for more than 20 minutes, I do not hear it at idle anymore. It does not come back unless the engine has been off for 8+ hours. Today when I started the car up from being off all night, I expected to hear it as usual, but for the first time it was not there. It was the first time after sitting overnight I did not hear it first thing in the morning.

    Tomorrow I will have Advance Auto reset the CEL(code P0301) and see what Lucas did for me. The next step will be to swap injectors or pump air into cylinder 1 and see if it leaks out. Maybe the valves get bent when the timing was off a tooth.
  • saedavesaedave Chicago, ILPosts: 694
    Could the noise be coming from the exhaust system? Loose heat shields on several model years made such a rattle.
  • Umm, I don't think so, although I am not a mechanic. This noise is really tied to acceleration, esp. up any kind of hill, and when it shifts into 3rd and 4th gears. It is not a steady rattle, it disappears after car reaches desired speed or the engine isn't being asked to do something. I had a 96 Legacy wagon (2.2 L engine) that would ping a bit on hills - but nothing near like what this car is doing.

    I have seen some complaining on the drive by wire systems; wonder if this has anything to do with the engine performing this way? High octane gas makes no difference, so it's not the fuel.
  • saedavesaedave Chicago, ILPosts: 694
    This noise is really tied to acceleration

    Acceleration produces a small shift in engine and trans position in relation to the exhaust system. Don't rule out that source yet.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 64,749
    Doesn't sound related to the drive-by-wire problem (though, I have that in my manual-shift Impreza)..

    Don't know if it's the heat shield, but it definitely sounds like something loose and rattling..


    Prices Paid, Lease Questions, SUVs

  • rondo320rondo320 Posts: 10
    I have a 2007 OBW with the same problem. It has a 2.5 manual transmission and at high loads in 4th and 5th it sounds like the engine has something loose internally. I also own a 2004 2.5 impreza outback sport with a loose manifold and that sound is completely different. When I took it to the dealer, since its still under warranty, they told me they couldn't find anything wrong with it. There is something wrong with it and I will keep taking it back to develop a paper trail of Subaru ignoring a problem. I've owned a lot of Subarus but this is the last one unless the dealer suddenly becomes helpful and fixes the problem.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,925
    I very much doubt the problem is a bent valve due to the belt having been off by a tooth.... was it the crank or camshaft that was off? I had a camshaft off by a tooth for 60,000 miles and there was no problem with the valves afterward. I did notice the car ran slightly smoother once I corrected the timing during the next belt replacement, but fuel economy, etc., was not noticeably different.

    However, if it was the crankshaft off, it may be more significant because the sprocket is much smaller (and therefore each tooth represents more degrees off on the timing). Just guessing here though.... :D
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Baton Rouge, LAPosts: 218
    I understand that multiple chemical sensitivity problem. I live with it. We have an 89 Mazda 323 that had a windshield changed out a few years back which the glass company did not fix the leak when asked to. That leak drips right into the fan system which blows the moisture right into the a/c heat duct system causing a lot of fog in rainy weather. Needless to say, that glass company no longer has business from us.

    I am wondering if you might be slowly losing coolant from the heater core or refrigerant from the a/c system. Losses in either of those systems no matter how slow they might be would have me looking right at the evap core or the heater core. The antifreeze and 134a refrigerant will do a number on us if in a breathable vapor form. The real fun part is getting right down to exactly what and where the leak is. This is not a problem that is slowly resolved and will take a good bit of time, patience and experience from the repair tech to correct. He/she will have to be able to carefully think out everything you explain to him and be a good detective. Something few mechanics know how to do.

    I suggest you consult with a good a/c tech for the sniffer test for refrigerant. He will need a very sensitive trade tool for this job. One who specializes in rebuilding a/c systems may be best. Good luck on this, since very few people want to pay the real good techs anything. Most techs would rather spend time on easier problems. Here, I have the power to ground and take my time to correct such hard line problems.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Baton Rouge, LAPosts: 218
    That is correct. One tooth off usually does not bend a valve.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Baton Rouge, LAPosts: 218
    the dreaded misfire code......could be anything simple from Penzoil Quaker State oil being ran in the engine. Dump it, it causes too much sludge, to spark plug wires on to a valve hanging up at times. Lucas oil made it run better? That sticking valve could be it. Do a leak down compression test. If it fails, change your oil to something like a Wal-Mart brand that does not sludge up. Valvoline is also good for little sludge buildup. make sure the filter you use has a good quality back flow valve in it. A WIX is good for that as well.

    If it still fails to correct after a few miles.....100-1000, get ready to do a valve job!
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Baton Rouge, LAPosts: 218
    Interesting.....what do you mean normally aspirated. I thought carburaters were history. Everything I see now a days is fuel injected. If so, the knock sensor is what changes the timing to prevent that problem. Usually if it fails, it throws a code. Then again that is assuming that system works correctly!
  • I picked up the term "normally aspirated" from the NASIOC board, because that's what the non-turbo Imprezas are labeled - just to distinguish it from the turbos. Had the car to the dealer today for the third time. They continue to assert they can find nothing wrong and they cannot replicate the pinging sound when driving it; however, they did decide to "relearn the transmission." Not sure if that's just a "bandaid" approach. I drove it away this evening; there's still some pinging, not quite as bad, but it is still there. So what's going to happen when the transmission "re-learns" my driving habits? Yes, I would think a knock sensor would take care of this, but evidently not.
  • kurtamaxxxguykurtamaxxxguy Posts: 1,798
    Actually both transmission and engine can be set to re-learn behavours.
    If the engine is reset, fuel economy will decrease until the engine re-learns how to minimize its fuel usage.
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    I am not sure if you have been reading about this saga (see 18002, 18006, 18015/17, 18085, 18089, 18102/6, and 18124). I have swapped wires, checked compression (18085). What is WIX? Who makes a good filter?

    I will reset the codes tomorrow to see what Lucas did for me.
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    It was the crank. In my post (18085), I had good compression in that cylinder 195psi for two minutes or more.

    Can I steam clean the engine and look for oil sepage?

    Also, do I need that cover on the bottom of the car? During an oil change years ago someone cut a hole in it. Over time it started breaking apart.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Baton Rouge, LAPosts: 218
    Okay....non-turbo. AKA as non-trouble. Does not help in the knocking/pinging department.

    I wonder if there are any tech service bullentins about this problem from Subaru. I would be looking directly at the knock sensor and related computer circuits involved. Also, the service tech needs to take a ride with you driving the car so you can recreate the problem for him since he can not make it happen. That would be my next recommendation.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Baton Rouge, LAPosts: 218
    You are correct that I am new to the Subaru forum. Not new to automobiles or Subaru's though. 40+ years. WIX is an excellent oil filter brand. They even make the NAPA filters. I have seen them cut open, we have watched results of engine tear downs for many different filter brands and this is one of the good ones.....I guess as long as they don't come China?!?!

    Remember when it comes to that misfire code, that valve or whatever only has to screw up once in a blue moon during a 100 miles before that computer picks up the change in rpm drop then throws that stupid code. I hope that to be the case, then you could very well get away with changing the oil brand and oil filter over a little time. Don't forget the old Marvel Mystery oil. Hold off on that thought though until you see what Lucas does. I have pulled Marvel out a few times in the past before doing a tear down. It has bailed me out as well when I least expected it. Sure beats a tear down any day.

    Will try to review your message history. You have one of the fun codes to resolve.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Baton Rouge, LAPosts: 218
    I am still reading your posts and have a couple thoughts to go on now. First, clarify the year, model and mileage you currently have on the vehicle. How much of the mileage is city versus highway.

    Now, looking at your compression readings.... there may be your misfire answer. 1-220, 2-235, 3-195, 4-220. I have re-arranged, assuming firing order 1-3-2-4. Everyone else, pay attention here. One of the things I hate about OBD II! Old days, I would have no problems with this engine, but OBD II does and so does Uncle Sam. Here is why. Re-arrange to 1-200, 3-195, 2-235, 4-220. Here is most likely the cause for misfire code on this engine: look closely at the readings. You will see two lower reading cylinders followed by two higher readings. Those two higher reading cylinders will produce more power than the two lower reading cylinders which will eventually be picked up by the computer as a misfire code on 1 and/or 3 because those are the lower compression/lesser power output cylinders. Add any other small variable on an occasional basis from poor re machining work from valve job, you are screwed with a code.

    There goes the sticking valve hope.....your previous posts shot that thought down somewhat. Okay.... patience is cheaper than replacing the car. Time and observance may pay off in the long run still. It has served well in the past on high mileage units around here. So let's use that tool. Wes, seems to know it well also. I see you have dealt with cats, O2's and antifreeze. What about oil loss. Is any burning? The higher mileage Subs here, 240K seem to leak it out the back end from the oil gallery cover, and 'O" rings. I still replace crank shaft seals and clutches while back there also. Even with synthetic oil, they are very tight on next to no oil usage. I hope the same for yours

    If Lucas improves things, oil loss is next to nil, I would consider a synthetic oil with no additives and hopefully that will take of any strange variables out there adding to the unbalanced compression readings and reduce that misfire code problem.

    Intake Manifold gaskets....little late to mention it, but were the surfaces flat and square checked by a machinist. Takes very little to cause an air leak and a misfire code there as well. But that would not be an occasional thing. Keep that thought under your hat.

    Time to let this stuff churn in the old brain for a while and read some more of your posts later.
  • robotb9robotb9 Posts: 82
    I have a 2006 Tribeca. While driving at about 70 MPH yesterday, my front seat passenger (who has some significant dementia) grabbed the shift lever. Fortunately he only pushed it to the left side, putting the transmission into Sport mode, so nothing bad happened. My question is, what if he had managed to push the lever forward? Would some sort of damage occur?
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Baton Rouge, LAPosts: 218
    Transmission would be the least of my concerns. Overall safety of the vehicle becomes the issue. He could have caused a complete lack of control resulting in a deadly accident. Back seat for him from now on.

    Now for the transmission. This particular car I know little about, but in general it is not a very good idea to shift any transmission while it is under a full load. Even in an auto, I back off the load before I force a downshift on an auto. Yes, I know it has clutches inside it. But those do not work like most people think they do! They work completely opposite of a manual setup. Bottom line is you are forcing parts to change position while under a load and that can get nasty at times especially if you decide to put it in "R" for Race as the old joke goes then wondering why it blew all apart.

    Again, for safety sake, that person needs to be in the back seat!
  • robotb9robotb9 Posts: 82
    Agreed, that passenger will not ride again in the front seat. That's not under discussion. I understand the safety issue.

    I am hoping for an answer to the question about the transmission itself: what sort of damage could have occurred?
  • sgloonsgloon Posts: 323
    Good guess, girlcarbuilder,
    I did find both A/C charging valves were bad, (an engineer friend found these with less than a 5 minute glance under the hood). One of these is located right near the air intake for the cabin. This was after the heater box was replaced and I was still having problems. Several people/mechanics have suggested that there is a coolant leak (none from Subaru, however). So, you are dead on. No one has mentioned the evap core. I'll have to look into that as well. Unfortunately, I have no way to check for heater core leak, as it is inside the heater box and relatively inaccessible.

    Then, there is the other "known" Subaru problem of some oil on a gasket that can last for 15 months+.

    So, yes, I've definitely been breathing the refrigerant, and it is not nice stuff to be breathing. I've also been breathing the oil blend that was on this gasket which also causes a window film. And then again, there could be other items that I am breathing and these in combination do who knows what to me.

    I'm just hoping that I don't end up with the multiple chemical sensitivity problems that you have and that once Subaru agrees to replace my Forester with another that I will be home free with no permanent damage. At this point, I can't be sure of that however.

    Sorry to hear of your health issues as well. I have some friends who have similar problems, some of which are very debilitating.

    Thanks for your comments.
  • sgloonsgloon Posts: 323
    I haven't heard of anyone with as drastic a window film issue, nor the drastic chemical poisoning.

    That is why I don't think it is a typical problem and am surprised Subaru won't just do the right thing and swap this car out for another like vehicle. I suppose the lawyers are worried about admitting anything is wrong.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Lawyer up and keep us posted. Good luck getting a resolution.

    Can't complain about ours, it's been great. New car smell has subsided and my wife is thrilled overall.

    Funny thing is my 1998 model has a far worse smell than the 2009, in fact I used to call it "new car stench".
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    Boy, you threw a lot of stuff at me. It was like being in college and the Prof. was squeezing two classes in to one.

    I am driving a 2000 (hence user name) Forester. As of this post it has 296,856 miles on it. Over the last two fill ups I am getting 25+ mpg. At time the engine runs smooth as glass. Other times it has a slight miss. I reset the codes today (P0301 & 0420).

    The Forester leaks a drop or two sitting overnight. When I am underneath the car, I see some sepage. I thought about steam cleaning the engine to locate it. But am waiting to hear the pros & cons. I have lost a little less that a quart after 4K miles of driving.

    Speaking of driving, I average 84.6 miles a day. With 64 miles of that on the highway. I am basically a highway drive (62 mph) with a heavy use of my cruise control (even at 35-40 mph).
  • ... less than a quart of oil use in 4,000 miles is negligible by any standard, certainly by any manufacturer's standard.

    I wouldn't even think twice/worry about that unless it increases noticeably.

    Your driving style & habits are made for getting the kind of high mileage/long life you have IMO.
Sign In or Register to comment.