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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • Actually, according to my owners manual (09 OB Ltd.) and the Subie web site, "Subaru Super Coolant 1st replacement interval is 11years/137,500 miles (220,000 km). 2nd replacement interval is 6 years/ 75,000 miles (120,000 km) after the 1st."

    Not sure I'd go quite that far, but my general rule of thumb is 4 yrs. or so (4-5) on factory fill and change every 2-3 yrs. thereafter.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,868
    They upped the interval with the implementation of the "super blue" coolant. But, you should be able to go 100,000 miles or 5 years with any good quality coolant, pre "Super Blue" or not.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • aathertonaatherton Posts: 617
    Fuel injector service: This is usually done if there is problem, and consists of running cans of BG brand detergent through the system. If a high-detergent gas from the Top Tier list is used, there should be no need for this service.
    Coolant: The 2008 Subaru Maintenance Schedule calls for coolant replacement every 30K miles, unless Subaru Super Coolant is used, in which case it is 6 years or 75K miles. You likely don't have SSC in there, and are overdue on coolant, with old hoses that should be replaced at the same time.
    Brake fluid: Should be replaced every 2 years in wet humid climate or 3-4 years in arid climate.
    The prices seem high, but I guess that's what labor rates are these days.
  • jfljfl Posts: 1,385
    At 105k, when my timing belt was replaced, the water pump was also replaced along with the coolant.

    As Mike said, if you haven't changed the timing belt, get that done and have the coolant changed at the same time. Most new coolants (Prestone, et al) are now formulated for extended life and shouldn't need to be replaced at 30k.

  • Hi
    What are the best tires for a 04 turbo forester?
    Thanks for your advise.
  • Yokohama Avid H4S or V4S.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Before I answer what tires. Where do you drive? What kind of driving? What are your goals? Any modifications? Etc.

    Subaru Guru and Track Instructor
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    Can I retighten the head bolts? There is a oil leak on the head assembly near the firewall. I think of tightening the middle bolt by 22 degrees then the last one by 45 degrees.
  • I'm considering a 2010 Impreza. I'm hung up on the 2.5i Premium with SE or the OBS. The big question is whether the 17" tires with the OBS are worth it compared to the 16" tires on the 2.5i? I would be using the car for 98% commuting. Occasional off-road on fire roads, camping etc.. No heavy duty off-road use or racing, drifting, etc.. Is there a gas mileage penalty going to the 17"? Is a 17" tire that much more expensive?

    Thank you.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I would get the OBS for the better content. You get more than just those rims, and the price is very close.

    Then again the Premium package is also a good value.

    Don't pick by rims or tires. Get behind the wheel, and pick the one that feels best to you. The cost difference is minor, so your happiness should be more important.
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    Can I retighten the head bolts? There is a oil leak on the head assembly near the firewall. I’m thinking of tightening the middle bolt by 22 degrees then the last one by 45 degrees.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    You can try but I doubt it'll be a permanent fix.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,868
    That's my thought, too. Once they start leaking, it is unlikely that adjusting the torque is going to solve the problem.

    How awful, though! It seems like you "just" repaired those things! How many miles have you put on the car since then with all your driving? It can't be more than another couple hundred thousand.... :P
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    I followed the proceedure below:

    (2) Tighten all bolts to 29 N·m (3.0 kg-m, 22 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence.
    Then tighten all bolts to 69 N·m (7.0 kg-m, 51 ft-lb) in alphabetical sequence.
    (3) Back off all bolts by 180° first; back them off by 180° again.
    (4) Tighten bolts (a) and (b) to 34 N·m (3.5 kg-m, 25 ft-lb).
    (5) Tighten bolts (c), (d), (e) and (f) to 15 N·m (1.5 kg-m, 11 ft-lb).
    (6) Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90° in alphabetical sequence.
    CAUTION: Do not tighten bolts more than 90°.

    This is from the manual. I had trouble doing step six (6) no gauge to determine 90°. The a technician at the dealership told me a somewhat different sequence. The leak started about 302K miles. So after 15k miles I get a leak (287,007 changed gasket).
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,868
    That sounds like the procedure I followed for my Outback. As far as the 90-degree turn for the final step, I just used visual cues to estimate the quarter-turn.

    You had the surfaces planed, if I recall correctly, didn't you? If so, the mating surface should not be the issue here, but the gasket itself or, as mentioned, the torque.

    The reason I do not recommend adjusting the torque is because, aside from the possibility that it may not help, the increased pressure (and possibly uneven) may be problematic when the engine warms up. It could cause undue stress on the aluminum, initiating a crack or warping the head or block.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    I took the head assembly to a machine shop. They replaced the valves and the the mating surface was clean. I did not ask if he planed it.

    The dealer attributed the oil leak and possibly my misfire to the head gasket. I have a good mind to just let it go. There is a little pooling on top of the engine and a 16 sq in spot on my driveway each day.
  • I am also purchasing a 2010 Impreza. I've taken both for a test drive and both feel the same to me. The few details that are different is that;
    1. OBS has no sunroof and 17 in tires which cost a bit more to replace. Narrow tires 16in better in snow. Some say gas mileage is better with 16in tire.

    I had an Outback wagon and you can tell that the car has higher ground clearance. I looked at the Impreza models OBS and Premium they look the same height. OBS has heavy duty suspension. You may feel a difference in handling between the two models. Best wishes on your upcoming purchase. Subaru is a wonderful car, I've had 5.
  • lark6lark6 Posts: 2,565
    Apologies for this but hopefully you all can indulge me. I'll try to be as concise as possible.

    Had a minor fender bender 11/12; car got rear-ended in the rain at a stop sign. Damage minor (no injuries to anyone thankfully), but car ('05 Forester XT) needed rear bumper and muffler replaced. Had estimate done 11/13, made appointment to take into shop 11/23. Shop ordered aftermarket and OEM exhaust (both per insurer, former as policy, latter from SoA in case former did not fit) 11/19.

    Car went into shop as scheduled 11/23, given completion date of 11/25. Aftermarket muffler did not fit; OEM part from SoA did not arrive. As of today (12/2) car still in shop; paint/body work done on time, still waiting on muffler from SoA. FWIW shop is less than 30 miles from SoA HQ and regional parts warehouse.

    Is this car so rare that SoA does not maintain replacement parts inventory? At this rate may consider looking into the variety of aftermarket grapefruit launchers on the market just to get the car back.

    Rant off,
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Supply is just 15 days, so it may be a matter of a production line running at full tilt.

    You may want to try a junk yard or something.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207 is best place to find your recycled parts online ...
  • After driving over a patch of badly broken pavement at highway speed, my 04 FXT started to exhibit a strange behavior in the rear wheels. This was not a pothole, just a 10-15 ft stretch of very cracked and uneven road surface. The car made a noise similar to going over speed strips, but much louder.

    After the incident, the car felt like a vibration at higher speeds and a slow oscillation at lower speeds, almost like a wallow, in the rear. The rear of the car felt unsettled. There was no visible damage to wheels or tires.

    Took it to the dealer, they rebalanced and rotated all wheels front to back. The strange sensation in the rear still exists, so this doesn't look like a problem with wheels or tires. I'm taking it to the dealer again tomorrow, but was wondering if anyone has any ideas on what could be damaged.

    I can only think of a possible slightly bent axle. I don't know what else this could be.

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,868
    I have to wonder if the suspension on one side was knocked out of alignment. If so, it may be trying to pull in one direction before being slipped back in line by the rest of the car. This sounds like it is pretty substantial, so if this is what happened and you have put many miles on the car since then, you should start noticing an odd wear pattern on that tire.

    Oh, I probably should have asked.... does the "wallow" feel like it is side-to-side or up-and-down?
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • The wallow feels more up and down, but it's kind of difficult to tell for sure. The car was only driven about 600 miles since the incident, so no visible tire wear problems yet.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,868
    Does it feel severe? If so, you could probably isolate or rule out the axle by putting the car up on blocks and letting it idle in gear: Taking a close look at the rear tires should show a bit of an oscillation as it rotates.

    My mother bent the rear axle on her '79 Trans Am one winter by sliding sideways into a curb. Just sitting there, you could not tell it was damaged. But, when she drove down the road, you could definitely feel it... it was a pretty intense "wobble." :)
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • Thanks - that's a very good suggestion. The wallow definitely is noticeable, however, I don't know what qualifies as severe. Unfortunately, I'm currently recovering from a serious injury, and can't jack up the car or do any DIY stuff for a while, plus I would have to buy a second pair of jackstands because of AWD. I will mention it to the dealer when I bring it in tomorrow.
  • xiongxiong Posts: 1
    hey, i have a problem with my car...i went to the auto shop to get a diagnostic for my 2001 Subaru legacy gt limited, and they said i needed to change my fuel pump, thus i did. when i changed my fuel pump, the car starts, but when i try to put it in drive it dies on me..After a few days, the auto store decided to rediagnose my car and they said i need a new fuel pump again because the one i just put in was not pumping enough fuel pressure.. the fuel pump only had 5-10lbs of pressure and they said the car runs for a bit and then ya know what could be the problem?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Spark or fuel, as they say.

    Isn't that fuel pump under warranty?

    Check to make sure all the emissions hoses are reconnected. Especially around the intake.
  • Hi.
    A friend of mine has a similar issue with her 2008 Impreza. Her windshield completely fogged up while driving and she had to stop until it cleared. Have you had a similar problem? You mentioned the "real fix" for your car. May I ask what that was?
    Regina, Sk., Can.
  • sgloonsgloon Posts: 323
    Yes, I had a similar problem on my ex 09-Forester. I do know that the 08 Impreza's had the same problem, as it was first noticed in them. In mine it was a heater box issue. I was exposed to all sorts of chemicals, coolant, refrigerant, some lanolin blend oil and who knows what else.

    I was sick for almost a year. I finally got rid of the car in September and have a 2010 now. I am still healing my lungs and other things which were affected by the chemicals that I was exposed to.

  • Thanks for the advice. My friend is a older lady (83 years old) that lives next door. The window suddenly fooging caused an accident. Although no one was hurt, she is now reluctant to drive it since the temperatures are now below freezing here. She did get stuck with the repair bill for the cars involved. I will pass on the your advice. Take care and thank you again.
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