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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • The half shaft has suffered some wear, depending on how many miles are on it, on how long ago the boot split and on how much lubricant was lost. Evidently it has not suffered enough wear for you to tell by noise or feel. The dealer is saying that he can't tell how much wear the half shaft has suffered until he can look at it.

    Since you could not hear or feel the wear, and if you are reluctant to spend money on repairs, you will be tempted to keep the half shaft until it fails, no matter what the dealer says.

    However, you must have the boot replaced, which requires removal of the old half shaft, and so you will have invested much of the cost of replacing the half shaft in just replacing the boot. Eventually, not replacing a worn half shaft now will cost you more later from repeating the labor.

    The only reasons for not replacing the worn half shaft now are that it has suffered no wear at all, or you expect to have more money in the future, or you do not expect to keep the car for much longer.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    We replaced a boot on our 626, IIRC it was under a grand, but the half shaft was OK.

    We didn't keep the car long after that, so I can't tell you how the fix worked long-term.
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    I put a Speedy Boot(split boot) on a a few years ago. Now the split has failed, thought there does not appear to be any grease coming out. I do not know how long the split occurred.

    I need to replace the boots for the tie-rods and since the dealer has to do a lot of the same work for both, I was trying to see if I should buy a half shaft or just the boot. Oh and just a heads up, my Forester has 310,793 miles.
  • My 2001 legacy wagon died suddenly while accelerating approx. 2 minutes after a cold start.
    The check engine light never came on.
    I pulled a plug and it has good spark.
    I took off the timing belt cover and it looks good.
    The car will crank fine, but doesn't seem to even try to catch.
    What could be wrong?
  • Fuel pump? (either the pump or the power to it)

    Just a guess... its either air, fuel, or spark, and you have spark.
  • what is the best way to check for fuel?
    Where is the fuel pump on this car?
    This is the first car I have owned that had fuel injection.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    Clutch and hill holder system should be INSPECTED every 15k miles, the maintenance didn't say anything re replacement.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    311k, yowsah! :surprise:

    You're a senior member of the quarter million mile club. :shades:
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    There must be people more senior than me. Someone at my job has 325K.

    I have decided to go axle replacement route. has the following:
    A1 Cardone Front, passenger side Axle Assembly - Cardone select
    for 2000 Subaru Forester S 4 Cyl 2.5L for $69.46.

    Someone asked me where my service history might be. Where could I upload it to for people to read?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Under $70 is CHEAP, wow.

    You can open a CarSpace account and host images, but only one at a time. I don't think it will host a multi-page PDF file.

    Correct me if I'm wrong, folks.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 66,801
    Anyone had issues?

    I was flipping mine up, and heard a cracking noise.. Now it's lost all friction... just hangs straight down. Sounds like a minor problem, right? Literally, impossible to drive with it that way. The only way to get it out of your field of vision, is to swing it to the side... and, then you've lost all protection from the sun in your face.

    '08 Subaru Impreza..

    Dealer service was already closed today, when it happened. Fortunately, I'm off Monday, as they are only open from 8-6.. I hate dealing with crap like this... waiting for them to tell me that isn't covered by warranty... lol.


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  • It was the fuel pump.
    after searching online I found out the fuel pump is accessible under the rear passenger side seat. It still took me a while to find it, under the sound proofing layer, which was stuck down.
    Once I got it out putting 12 v. across each terminal and ground got no response other than a spark when I found out which terminal was ground.
    Also checked the connector with the key on and was getting 12v at one terminal there.
    So I got a new fuel pump and everything is good.
  • Have you replaced the strainer in the fuel tank? I had an issue exactely like yours in another car, I replaced the fuel pump and blew the line only to experience the issue again. Come to find out it was the strainer. It cost me $20 dollar and about 2 hours of my time to drain the gas and remove the tank to replace the strainer. I hope that helps.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Posts: 1,207
    Carspace add photo :
    You must use .gif or .jpg files - .bmp files cannot be accepted at this time. So I don't know whether .pdf is accepted for uploading.

    You can search free hosting, free storage space online then upload your file there and post the link here.

    There is for the rescue if the file is too large. You can upload file and email the link to other receipants, or to yourself. The drawback is file stores there for 5 days only.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    That's the kind of thing covered for 12 months under the adjustment period. Depends on when you bought, but probably not.

    Should be cheap to replace, though, it's just plastic.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 66,801
    Yeah.. I'm past the 12 months...

    Not really an adjustment... It's broken. I'd think that should be warrantied (but, I'm betting it isn't).

    Then again, I think I should be able to purchase a battery cover for my wife's Nokia phone, if it comes off and she loses it.. But, Nokia evidently thinks I'd be better off buying a new phone, instead.. And, then.. have the temerity to ask if there is any other way they can help me. :surprise: Ah... I digress..


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  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Guess it depends if they think it was a mistake in manufacturing, wear and tear, or breakage due to mis-use.

    Are you an angry person who bangs on the visor every time someone cuts you off? :D

  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    Can someone describe to me how "power from the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip" works on the rear end of my 2000 Forester?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Posts: 66,801
    Well.. good news!

    I was off today, so I just drove over to the dealership this morning... She said since the car was in warranty, she had to have a tech look at it, plus wasn't sure they would have another visor in stock.

    Went across the street to Dunkin Donuts for coffee... called me on my cell about 40 minutes later, and they had replaced the visor.

    Under charge.. and, without an appointment.. :)

    I'm still ticked off at Nokia, though...


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  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
  • lucien2lucien2 Posts: 2,984
    well it finally got worse, leaving me nearly stranded at every stop, and running very rough (akin to "limp mode") unless allowed to sit for a couple of hours. Took it in yesterday, the CEL is for the IACV :sick: so there goes another $500. I figure the car needs to be trouble free for the next 6 months in order to remain cheaper than a car has soaked up a lot of cash in the last 18 months. OTOH, I don't want 2 payments at the same time, so.....I fix. ;)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    If you have an L model it has an open rear diff so it doesn't transfer power side to side on the rear axle at all.

    If you have an S model it has a viscous limited-slip rear differential. If the two wheels spin at different speeds, the fluid sheers and the heat thickens the fluid, temporarily locking the two sides together, preventing the one side from slipping uselessly.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Baton Rouge, LAPosts: 218
    I always tell people on expensive parts like that one......see what years/models it goes on. See what years before and after you may be able to engineer to fit. First part requires research with either Hollanders or at the junkyard. The second part requires understanding what the part does and how it works. You can also research on web parts houses like and compare part numbers from year to years.

    If I am not mistaken, you are referring to the idle air control valve. A very simple part that could either be clogged, mechanically stuck or the electric coil is open. In the same order comes the ease of repair. A lot of these valves are just bolt in deals and cost around $500. I walked out of a junk yard a few years back with one for almost nothing!

    Now that the dealer has it, look out for your tution......hmm, you will know that rough idle the next time you see it! To verify it, you pull the small air hose going to the throttle body. Idle improves, that is the problem. So much for using a trouble code! Common sense goes a long way before the computer is even used. Sadly, that comes with experience and sometimes a lot of money.

    I am in many forums, but have little time to respond, so I pick carefully what I can physically respond to. This is one of those rare expensive easy to fix ones.

    Good luck! Your check book will need it.
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    What kind of preventive maintenance does the S model (w/311,217 miles) require? I got stuck in the snow a couple of weeks ago and now I have hum coming from the rear of the Forester starting at 40 mph.
  • lucien2lucien2 Posts: 2,984
    ya, thanks! I learned quick on NASIOC that this could be cheaper if I were willing to to work on it myself. But it's 22F degrees, I don't have a garage, and I'm stranded without the car. So I pay. :sick:
  • samiam_68samiam_68 Posts: 775
    Perhaps time to change the rear diffy fluid?
  • rebel71rebel71 Posts: 87
    I've noticed on my last 3 Subaru's 2005-2008 that the headlight visibility is quite poor. The cutoff is quite sharp and doesn't seem to illuminate too far ahead and too low. Especially to be able to see pedestrians and animals. They can't be adjusted and was told by service tech that if I were to put HID bulbs in it would void the warranty not to mention people that do have them in their cars, Subarus eat them up and are changing them about every six months. Anyone else experience this?
  • lucien2lucien2 Posts: 2,984
    We've had several Soobs throughout the years. Our 1999's had decent lighting for many years. The one that is still with us suffers from degrading plastic on the outside- getting cloudy, but that's age. For its time, I think the lighting was adequate, but not great.

    I would say the same thing of the 1998 Impreza that was in our stable for 18 months or so. Adequate but nothing more.

    Our 2004 Forester had better lights. Much better, indicative of a company-wide upgrade. It did have a sharp cut-off at the top, to avoid throwing light into the lead car's rearview mirror, which I can appreciate. Its lighting was every bit as good as...

    ...the 2008 Camry that was with us for a year and a half. this car also had a well-defined top cut-off, and overall very good lighting (as did the Forester). None of them hold a candle :blush: to our newest addition...

    ...a 2008 Mini Cooper Clubman S with Xenon HID. This car has a razor sharp top cut-off, absolutely needed to avoid blinding someone's rearview mirrors. Lighting is outstanding, with plenty of throw and also sweep, but without glaring into oncoming traffic (unless it hits a bump of course).
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Baton Rouge, LAPosts: 218
    I usually do not respond to this question, but I have seen it come up several times.

    First, for aging plastic, there is a headlight polish that can be bought to clean up the yellowing plastic. Even some Wal-Marts are offering that service.

    Now for aiming. Every car I have seen so far does have adjustment screws somewhere. Some are a real pain to get to. Learn first how to properly adjust headlamps, then get a service manual to find where the adjustment screws are for your year, make and model. The newest here an '09 Toyota Yaris and even it has adjustment screws. So I strongly suspect the Subaru's have them as well and someone is too lazy to adjust them. Many dealers are! Not to mention many people do not want to pay labor rates for that service!
  • phil2000phil2000 New JerseyPosts: 195
    I used to subscribe to the belief that you can never tighten a bolt to much. Well...

    Yes you can. A couple of months ago I went to take a rear wheel off and the lug was torque on so well that it broke when I removed it. So since then I have been driving with four instead of five lugs. Earlier this wheel went I replaced that same tire, I torqued the other bolts to compensate, POP there went number 2. Now I have three lugs holding a tire that takes five. Needless to say I have an appointment with the dealer to correct my zealous approach to mechanical fasteners.

    I now follow the owners manual for torquing on the lugs and us a torque wrench set to 88 Nm. I no longer use my breaker bar to put the lugs on. The breaker bar lived up to its name.
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