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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,913
    This is just the remap, yes?

    I received that letter as well, but have not called the dealership to set up an appointment yet.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    We did our 2009 PZEV model. No difference noted, YMMV.
  • sgloonsgloon Posts: 323
    I don't know what the "remap" is. The letter only states it will improve the performance of the emission control system.
  • sgloonsgloon Posts: 323
    OK. Thx ateixeira. Hopefully it will be the same for the non-pzev model I have. Unfortunately, I thought I was getting pzev, but didn't. Do they even make non-pzev any more?
  • aathertonaatherton Posts: 617
    edited August 2011
    "I just received a recall notice for Subaru to reprogram the emissions control module... Do you know why they are doing this? It doesn't say much in the letter."

    My letter says:
    "... This software update is intended to improve vehicle emissions when the vehicle is operated in cold weather and the engine is turned off and restarted within short periods of time such as in several minute intervals."

    In other words, starting and stopping the engine many times before it has warmed up in cold winter weather used to repeatedly dump a rich mixture into the converter, which hurt emissions and shortened the converter life. The update cures that problem by leaning the mixture somewhat on successive starts.

    There is no reason to expect the update will do anything more than Subaru says it will do.
  • Just took my Legacy into the deal for the WVU31 ECM re-program and my oil change. Get the call to come pick it up and pick it up after work. Pay the bill, get the keys go out to car.

    When I get to my car I go to press the "unlock" button on the key less entry. It doesn't work. I press the "lock" it doesn't work. No response from vehicle at all with either audio or visual signals. Think "hmm this is weird, it could just be a bad battery or something on the key less entry." No biggie, life goes on.

    So I get into the car, turn the car on, go to turn the radio on, and the radio has no power, cannot turn it on or off, cannot raise the volume and there is no lights on where the radio is. Same with the climate control panel. These are the only two symptoms I noticed before turning off the car and returning it to the dealer to figure out what is wrong with it.

    Anyone ever heard of anything similar? They said "We will call you tomorrow to let you know how much it is going to cost when we figure out what it wrong with it." At less than 45,000 miles and this problem arising after they re-programmed the computer, I would think they would cover it.

    Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,913
    Yeah, absolutely. If it worked fine when you dropped it off, but doesn't work at all now... it's almost assuredly something that happened while in their possession.

    Did you drive it anywhere, or just turn it on, notice these things, and then go back inside?
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • Turned it on, noticed, and turned it off. Didn't even bring the car out of the parking spot.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,913
    edited August 2011
    Then you have a pretty good case to say whatever the cost, it should be on their dime. In fact, I would demand a rental and not even touch the car again until it is put right.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • colin_lcolin_l Posts: 591
    A blown fuse is the most likely cause.

    Now as to how/why this happened... that is the real mystery.
  • sgloonsgloon Posts: 323

    Thx, Atherton.

    I was hoping I might get better gas this 2010 get about 4mpg less than my 2009 did. I've asked the dealer, but they say nothing a usual when I bring it in.
  • Hi team,

    I brought my 2008 Outback H6 LL Bean in for a routing oil change the other day. (38k miles) I also had them check on a rattle I have at just about 40 mph...when slightly accelerating on a hill. My third Subaru... so I know the heat shield sound.

    The tech told me that it was not this as the H6's do not have as many heat shield issues (is this true?)

    They replaced my steering wheel pump under warranty and said that was the issue as it was loose and leaking. Free ..but did not fix it.

    Should I go back and have them check the heat shields again? ONLY happens when already cruising along (not from a stop) around 35-40 mph.. have let off the gas a little and then lightly go to pick up speed. Rather loud ...rattle.

    Don't you love trying to type out the explanation?! :D
  • zman3zman3 Posts: 857
    My 2006 3.0R had heat shield issues. I fixed it by removing the existing nuts and bolts that hold them together and buying some stainless steel bolts and nuts and replacing the old ones. I think they were M4 or M5 size. It was a simple swap out.
  • Thanks...I will take a look and see if this is something the mechanically challenged can do!

    I did notice another odd engine thing last night. The H6 is generally smooth when shifting...this time, I lightly pressed on the gas it the car seemed to vibrate for a second before finding its gear. I figure this is just the normal Subaru auto transmission feeling? My other 2001 had 'quirky' shifts too.

    I always drive in Sport setting in my SI-Drive.
  • got a 1999 impreza rs mt .swaped my engine and mt from 2000 forseter.Got it all together put the battery on and all i have is hazards and door locks. everything else is not working. any suggestions
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,913
    You may need to swap the computer, and possibly even the wiring harness, to get it right.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • larue4larue4 Posts: 2
    edited October 2011
    1.8 litre engine.

    From dead start, a deep bass like rattle and thumping begins under the hood, under the engine, about midway between driver and passenger side. As I accelerate past 15mph or so, it goes away.

    THought it was suspension, maybe driveshaft issues but my wrenches did lower ball joints, then did both cv 1/2 shafts (boots were torn and shot, grease all over).

    When I turn left or right from a dead stop same problem, sometimes less sometimes worse, just like a straight line start.

    If I put the tranny into 4WD (shifter button) there is no noise at all!!!!! WHich leads me away from suspension related issues?

    Any thoughts? Drive train? Not suspension? Internal tranny splines where half shafts lock into?

    Thanks in advance.

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,913
    I am not overly familiar with the layout of the 1.8L's drivetrain, so I cannot pinpoint anything, but that sounds to me like an out-of-balance issue in a driveshaft. Perhaps a bushing through which a shaft passes is worn out? Basically, the slow rotational speed and initial torque is causing something to flex, which puts it out of balance and makes it vibrate/thump. As soon as the speed increases and/or the torque eases, it smooths out and is good to go until the next alignment of symptoms.

    The part that makes me uncertain about this diagnosis is that it is in the area of the front differential. When I have experienced this in the past, it was in the drive shaft bushing for the rear differential.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • larue4larue4 Posts: 2
    Thanks xwesx . . . I'll run that by my shop . . .
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Baton Rouge, LAPosts: 218
    edited October 2011
    Hmmmm, another one been around a while. When you did the half shafts, you did not mention whether they where replaced, repaired or what. I quit years ago doing my own halfshafts and now use a lifetime warranty units from either or O'reillys. It helps with balance issues/ or bent shafts!

    It is not uncommon for outer c/v bearings to sound off in turns when defective. You did mention torn boots.

    Bottom line, I concur. Start with Cv shafts. I also recommend sparaying the boots with a silicone spary every oil change to make them last longer. Cheap and sure beats changing them.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 10,913
    Silicone spray? What sort... like what you would use to lubricate a squeaky hinge?
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • There's a recall for the front left suspension. Contact you're local Subaru dealer.
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Baton Rouge, LAPosts: 218
    Yes, Make sure it is silicone. WD-40 will rot rubber.
  • meme123meme123 Posts: 2
    edited February 2012
    Hi- My 2012 forester 2.5x with pzev. We have driven it for 5000 miles so far. On 3 different occasions we have had the check engine, traction control (solid) and cruise light (flashing)come on at the same time. We took it and had the codes run on the computer-it was listing misfires on the 1st and 2nd... with a permanent code on the 2nd. The dealership took a look at the car today and said it is a problem with the ECM and that Subaru is aware of this issue and has sent out a temporary file to fix it. So-do you know anything about this issue? The lights seem to come on as we are going uphill and pressing the gas pedal.
    This is our second Forester (2009). The other one never had this issue.
  • hello i just bought a 2012 forester yesterday with 10 miles on it an today the transmission went out on it i cant believe i buy a brand new car an already transmission goes out wtf
  • sgloonsgloon Posts: 323
    edited February 2012
    Wow! Bad luck. Many states-at least mine does- have at least a 3 day "right of rescission" when buying a vehicle. Meaning you have 3 days to return the vehicle and walk away from the deal, ie cancel the contract. You get all your money back, etc. Check into it for your state. But act quick!!!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    edited February 2012
    I don't think so. :)

    Last I checked California had a cancellation option for used cars, but fees and restrictions applied. New Jersey has a one day cooling off period if you lease a car to review the unsigned lease terms.

    You can certainly try to unwind the deal but I think you're stuck with a warranty repair.

    Bummer but stuff happens.
  • I assume it was an automatic? What happened, exactly?
  • girlcarbuildergirlcarbuilder Baton Rouge, LAPosts: 218
    Hmmmm, not good for Subaru to have your post here! Because people like me/brother who buy their product will consider more carefully the next purchase.

    As far as I am concerned, ECM should be good for at least 200K miles or more. If it fails before then, get rid of the car and fire the manufacturer. Yup, we harsh on them. We buy transportation not something sitting in my shop or theirs. There really is no excuse for any major driveline problems in anything for the first 200K miles with proper maintenance of course, other than abuse or accidents. That has been my atitude for the past 15+ years.

    Now, if I was you, first to the dealer to fix it, 2nd call to attorney for advice, 3rd, begin needed documentation if it turns out to be a lemon.

    A lemon from Subaru? If made in the US, I would not be surprised. We have seen a quality difference in American built versus Japanese built Subies.....and Toy's as well. Something that is considered now when buying.
  • I just got this vehicle and we have been having some issues with it. First is when we drive in the interstate over 60 mph the car starts driving very ruff and the check engine light comes ON. Second once its driving I start smelling clutch oil ( like burning oil and rubber) burning when we are in 1st second gear AND when I park it you can smell it pretty darn bad. I check where it migh be leaking and I found underneath the clutch oil check is Over the muffler is where the oil has been landing on and burning. Its kinda wet down there but only in that area ( problably underneath the belts just where the opening torwards the muffler).

    Could it be the seals ? or If anything can be wrong with it I REALLy apreciated the help figuring my caR PROBLEM. :cry: :sick:
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