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GMC Canyon



  • Ive bought it the first year it came out. Since ive gotten it the most major problem ive had is the fuel gage. Its never read properly. When im on low fuel and say put in 15 dollars of fuel it goes down directly down to low fuel. Ive took into the dealer they have replaced the fuel senor twice and still hasnt fixed the problem. Anyone have any ideas?
  • rocketman67rocketman67 Posts: 82
    They bored it out from 3.5 to 3.7.
  • billingsleybillingsley Posts: 69
    I keep trying to like the GMC/Chevy small trucks, but after reading these forums, I think I will go out and buy either the Frontier or Tacoma truck. Maybe that's one of the reasons GM is having to put money behind these small trucks, to move them.


  • sector8sector8 Posts: 1
    i have the same problem on my 05 canyon I5 crew 4x4, dealership put some sort of cleaner in it to see if that would fix it, it didnt. have to bring it in next week. any fix for yours??.
  • hainahaina Posts: 6
    I have a 2005 4x4 I5 Chevy Colorado and have been experiencing what I thought was the Exhaust valve problem what other trucks have been experiencing for Chevy. But what turns out the BUZZING and lifter knocking sound is #PIP3811 "Rattle Noise form bottom rear of engine at 2000-3000 RPM--Keywords accelerate bellhousing buzz clatter detonation end hot housing idle knock load lower ping shaft spark." Another words on rare occasions, a light detonation/rattle type noise may be experienced around 2000-3000 RPM under light load/acceleration with the engine at operating temperature. I can hear a light buzz sound when the engine is cold and I can hear a light knocking sound, like a lifter knocking at around 2000-3000 RPM only on acceleration in drive. CANNOT duplicate the sound when it is in neutral reving the engine to 2000-3000 RPM . The Dealer is aware of the Service Instruction "PIP3811" and a repair is being developed to address this noise; They have not yet found a cure to fix the problem.
    As for the Service Bulletin #04-06-04-081C Exhaust Valve Springs, they said it only applies to the I4 engine not the I5. Can someone concur with that SB?
    I hope this info can help out with anybody else experiencing this buzzing, vibration problem, Knocking sound, even though mine is a Colorado.
  • Karen_SKaren_S Posts: 5,095
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  • calmacncalmacn Posts: 1
    I'm new to the board but I just bought an 04 crew cab 4x4 with the I5 motor and I too only get 13 mpg in town and about 15-16 on the highway. Not happy at all with gas mileage, It will be for sale soon if this is as good as it gets. AC works good enough for me but it has to run on high when its really hot outside.
  • gmintzgmintz Posts: 3
    Does anyone know the location of the Oil Pressure Sending unit on the 5 cyl engine. Is it perhaps on the left side behind the exhaust manifold. :confuse:

  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    You could have a bad gauge, or a problem in the wiring harness between the fuel sender in the fuel tank and the gauge. Bad grounding in the circuit will cause erroneous readings too.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    13 MPG sounds dismal on this truck. Either something is wrong or you are flooring this thing at every opportunity. For comparison, my full size '06 Silverado Z71 crew cab (4WD) gets 15-16 MPG in town, more on the highway when driven CONSERVATIVELY. That's with 5.3 liter V8 and 3.73 gears, with A/C on all the time (I live in Florida).

    i would recommend trying higher octane fuel. The computer will advance engine timing more with higher octane before the knock sensor registers pinging, for better mileage. Try 89 for a while, then 93. See if the mileage improves. Avoid jackrabbit starts.

    I run my Z71 Silverado on 89 octane brand name gas, such as Mobil or BP. Avoid cheap no brand name gas stations. who knows what additives they use. Too much enthanol in the fuel will lower your gas mileage.
  • gmintzgmintz Posts: 3
    Never Mind gents. Upon a more detailed look I found it. The location is right above the oil filter itself.

  • I have a 2005 canyon that has decided not to start. I had to have it towed because we could not even jump it. The dealership is taking days to charge the battery. I do have a pretty extensive stereo system in it. Would it be taking the all the juice from the battery?? I have had the stereo for a year now and no problems before. Or could it be something else? I do not want to pay out of my pocket if this is a problem with these trucks.
  • Hey I have the same problem I have a 06 Crew cab 4x4. My gas gauge first started saying i had half tank then it would go to empty then re start and would say empty . Then next day just stayed on empty had half tank in it .Took it in they replaced the fuel pump module and the sensor , they called me and said it was still saying empty. so they are looking into it some more . Let me know if you found out what it was . Thanks
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516

    As you may have noticed, we are reorganizing the Forums to allow better focus and easier searching when you have a particular problem or comment about any given vehicle. Many of the large generic discussions (like this one) will be closed to new posts, and we ask that you continue in the more focused discussions that you can find at the Group page for the vehicle, linked below. This discussion will not be deleted, so you can still search for information in it.

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  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    I wouldn't say that GM has "screwn-up" I have been a GM fan for years. I have also driven several other brands of vehicles and family has had several other brands. To date I own an '01 S-10 with 90K on it (no problems except a couple minor things), and an 04 Impala with 15K that we bought new 1 1/2 years ago. Absolutley no problems with that car. Before the Impala had a 94 Taurus (I call it a Tortise it was so under powered and slow) but it was a good car and took it to 100K and only a waterpump replaced. Burned not drop of oil and didn't leak anywhere, even the tranny was still doing great and didn't leak. Also had a 95 S-10 hat had its share of problem (long story short - clutch was put it wrong leading to tranny failure to bad tranny install to pinched ignition wires to you get the picture. Anyway all that was fixed and it was going strong at 100K. No oil burn, all that power that it always had, all components worked and overall in pretty good shape. My parents went through an '85 Plymouth Voyager that they took to over 110K before trading on an Aerostar but turned it over at only 90K because of tranny problems, but had an old boss that is on his second Aerostar - the first had over 200K, although he did replace the tranny. I think he still has it, but not sure of the mileage, but I, guessing it is over 100K. After the Aerostar, my mom got an Astro and took that one to 170K with just a few minor electrical problems. It too was still going good upon replacement. Every vehicle my grandparents have owned from Buicks to Towncars to thier current Crown Vic have all been taken to over 100K and beyond before replacement. Thier current vehicle is like a 97 Crown Vic with 125K on it and no major problems. My grandpa's truck is a 1990 Sierra with over 150K on it (although I understand it doesn't run for some reason). He does have an '00 Dodge Ram, but doesn't particularly care for it he would rather have a Chevy, but is stuck with the Dodge for the time being and it has been an okay vehicle for him. My mom did have a 95 Grand Cherokee but there were several problems with it and she ended up getting rid of it before it broke 100K. She bought a 95 Regal that now has 115K on it. My Dad had an 82 Datsun that had well over 200K on it before he replaced it with an 02 Frontier (as a matter of fact that 82 Datsun was the only truck he ever owned while I was growing up. When I was in High School I went through 3 cars and it was the way I treated them. The only one to stand up to my abuse was an 82 GMC Sierra Classic. I drove that thing into the ground and it still kept going. Even the power windows worked! My sisters shared had a Suziki Samari that had well over 150K before she "upgraded" to a Cavalier (this car is indeed not the best car in the world, but it does go from point A to point B) and the Suziki is still going. I was at my parents house just a few weeks ago and my aunt has it now, but it still goes...

    Anyway, my point is that all vehicles no matter what brand, make or country of origin have the ability to last a long time given they are taken care of. As you can tell from my vehicular history, resale value means little as we run our cars to very high mileage before getting rid of them, or passing them on, but I have yet to have a vehicle that is plagued with problems (problems caused by how the vehicle was built) I have had my share of car problems, but those can be attributed to how I drove - I.E. you can't run a motor without oil, or how it was worked on - you can't put a transmission back in without a shift tower gasket hence all the tranny fluid will leak out and cause a tranny to go...

    So all I am saying is, I'll bet this Canyon/Colorado given that they are taken care of, given the proper maintenance will give years and miles of good service... And I'll bet the Toyota Tacoma will to. It just depends on how you want to do it.
  • the_big_althe_big_al Posts: 1,079
    I think it's interesting that a brand new vehicle has run full blast A/C just to get cold when my 6 year old 100K vehicle that I haven't touched the A/C system since the compressopr replacement 2 or 3 years ago and 70K miles ago will blow air cold enough that even on the hottest days and going down the road it gets cold enough that even on low setting it cools the vehicle... btw the vehicle is a 2001 V6 ex-cab S-10. You would think that a brand new vehicle with all the technology we have would be able to have an A/C system that works even on the hottest of days. My wifes 04 Impala also doesn't get extremely cold. At least not as cold as my S-10. Her car only has 19K miles on it. Haven't had any problems with it. Just that the A?C doesn't get cold
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