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Oldsmobile Aurora: Acceleration



  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    Don't forget the RSM throttle body parts too. All this stuff tends to help the high end more than low end. Another suggestion - at 82k or anywhere up there, new plugs and plug wires (DO NOT fool with anything other than replacing with the exact same stock plugs - anything else has shown to cause problems) will probably help. Don't be too lulled by the 100k on the plugs. Be realistic, they probably serve fine up to 100k, but I would be surprised if they perform at 100% up to 100k before starting to slide.

    Also - clean the throttle body. At high milage with this never being done (or even once), you are losing power for sure.

    In short, before looking to modify, take care of the maintenance first. It can make a difference. And yeah, a simple K&N filter and box mod can add a tad bit of power right away. You want more - then look to Corsa and an RSM throttle body.
  • JRS -- how much louder is the Corsa system during everyday driving than bone stock? Awesome sub-15s..

    Also, I hear a lot about using the 2nd gear position.. On my Classic (managed to buy a 1998 with 26,400 on the clock), using second firms up the shift quite a bit. It seems to cut the shift time in about half, and if you forgot you placed the shifter into 2nd, it will surprise you. I actually can hear my serpentine belt squeak during the abrupt RPM change.

    I second the want to find someone who can change the PROM variables on these OBD-II cars.. moving the redline up a bit would be good (in 2nd, the Classic shifts around 6100, just before the hash marks.. but the engine doesn't feel anywhere near valve float).. it just dosen't feel out of steam at 6000. I'd buy V-rated tires if I could increase the top speed variable.. it pulls strong at 110, and the cutoff is quite abrupt.

    On an extremely minor note.. does anyone else's PCV valve buzz like crazy? I've replaced with a third-party and an AC.. both rattle audibly at idle.
  • garnesgarnes Posts: 950
    I have the Corsa too. It sounds awesome. On the highway, it's stock quiet. Around town, it's not bad at all. At WOT it sounds great. I was very wimpy about getting it, fearing it would be too loud. I am so happy I got the Corsa. Check out my post on the modification area. Let me know if you want pictures and info on how to modify the Corsa STS system for the classic Aurora.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Posts: 1,277
    I second Greg's observations. His are more relevant, though, as he has a Classic. On my 2nd gen car the exhaust is stock-quiet most all of the time unless you get on the throttle a bit. If you are accelerating you'll notice a little more noise. If you gun it, it will be noticable but not loud. Louder than stock but to me it is not obnoxious. Cruising is quiet as stock, possibly quieter.
  • I expect I'll wait to get some more use out of the stock system, but I like what I'm hearing about how the straight-through path can open things up. I wouldn't mind a little more growl -- the sound is for sure part of the feel of a car. I think even a bit more of a roar at WOT 5k+rpm would be welcome. Garnes -- did you say you live around the Indianapolis area? I'm camped out on the west side.

    I haven't managed to secure a profile, etc, anywhere, but I do have some pictures I took the day after I drove it home if anyone cares

    It had the spoiler when I bought it -- I am impressed that a lit one was made for it. I read that it was not a factory option, but I have to assume it was dealer-installed, because I can't imagine the older couple the car belonged to jumped through hoops to get it.. I haven't seen another one to date.

    Maybe a somewhat off-topic post.. oh well.
  • I saw a similar (maybe the same) spoiler on a Classic in Johnson City, TN, last month. It was at a repair garage that was closed, so I didn't get to ask anyone about it. How does the light operate? Brake light? Tail light? Both?

  • It's brake only, I believe tied to the high-mount light (which is also in place).
  • momrcmomrc Posts: 2
    I have taken the car to the dealer and it sat there for two weeks. They ran a complete diagnostics and couldn't find a problem or they were unable to recreate the problem. The problem is that when driving the car it just turns off. It happens on and off sometimes when I'm at a stop sign or even while on the road traveling. When I turn ignition its as if the car is dead, no sound nothing. Then I try again and it kicks in like its attempting to start after 3 times or more it kicks in and starts up. Can anyone tell me if this might be a fuel pump issue or electrical.
  • Sounds silly, but.. battery terminals? An intermittent failure of everything in the car makes this the first thing I'd check.

    The fuel pump isn't necessary to crank the engine (if the fuel pump's out, the car should crank until the batt is dead, just won't start).. Nor, if it dies when running, can we blame the starter. Lock cylinder is a possibility.. it controls lots of stuff.

    Will the horn work when it's "dead?" Easiest thing to check that will always work. No computer, no logic, no ignition key position.. just a switch, relay, and battery. If the horn's dead, think battery, terminals, wiring, fusible links, fuses.. in extreme cases a short somewhere.. but enough shorted current to stop the car dead in its tracks would generate smoke somewhere.
  • this story is beautiful it gives me hope . this kid in his 2002 dodge dakota he thinks he can beat me . i think hes mistaken. unless he has the 5.9 liter i gladley lay down. the 4.7 ( 235 hp @3400 290ftlb @4000) its close but i think i can do it.
  • I just bought the replacement K7N filter for my 97' did any one else experience problems with installation? Mine felt a little too large for the air box and took about and extra 10 min to reassemble. i called pep-boys back to verify the numbers, everything checked out. i finally got the two clips to solidly lock into place, and im sure that there is no gap. Just wondering if anyone else has the same issue. Also, every time i try and access the air box mod on caddy info it says page not found or something. If some one can email the directions or a quick how-to would be much appreciated.

  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Posts: 573
    Today was a glorious, warm spring day in central NJ. As I slowed for a red traffic light on a four-lane road, I saw in my rearview mirror a BMW come up behind me. Because the driver was weaving from lane-to-lane to pass traffic, I was sure he would be off quickly when the light turned green. We were stopped side-by-side at the light. I shifted the transmission to 2nd. At green we both hit the gas. I was surprised to get out ahead. My '97 had a 1/2 car-length lead at about 45 mph when I had to shut down because of a car in front of me. The new 330i passed me with its engine absolutely screaming.

  • 95mushroom95mushroom Posts: 230
    Very nice. It seems of late, that whenever I ran someone, they usually quit around the end of 1st. I believe it has to do with my CAI being fairly loud on the outside. I raced my brother once in his GTI and he missed his shift because of how loud my car was....
  • phil95phil95 Posts: 30
    You guys make me jealous. I got a 95 and can't get a squeak out it. 97k. I know it needs plugs and wires but service the TB is out my realm with that big MAF in the road. A thottle control module would be nice but the dealer want 226 for it. I wrested in a K&N but it just sounds a bit better. Didn't wake it up. Car runs great except I can't seem the wheel balance right. Just moves the vibration around. New Yokos ,never again. It doesn't like the air on. Runs smooth as silk with it off. But runs rough with it on then smooth then rough. Makes me nervous. Car never ran at 180, 225 constanly also makes me nervous.
    car is spotless like new and pampered. I would like a recommedation on plugs. I have heard AC no platnium at .60 and the opposite stock only at .50. the Though of buying wires makes me wonder if I need a home improvement loan. Anybody want to take this thing and give it back finished.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Posts: 1,380
    I'm wondering if any of you speedsters figured out how to defy some of the circuitry in place. May not be across all years, but there is a circuit to defeat abusive maneuvers such as WOT from standing start. It is supposed to reduce power automatically.
    Also has anyone tried getting their computer programed to Autobahn. You can have your computer programmed away from the vehicle, just need VIN. I understand that one of the few differences is the gear ratio difference.
  • You nuts ?
    Yes this car has the power.
    A 95 is also 4,000 pounds.
    They lighten up to about 3600 pounds after that.
    Dragging against a car a 1,000 lbs less that weight is foolish.
    Think about it.
    The Aurora was designed to be a luxury car not a muscle car.

    It is quick though isn't it ?
    Right out of the factory.
    One wonders why we don't keep it that way.
  • bull96206bull96206 Posts: 1
    "When I turn ignition its as if the car is dead, no sound nothing. Then I try again and it kicks in like its attempting to start after 3 times or more it kicks in and starts up." -- My Aurora had a similar problem and they replced the lock cylinder and fixed the problem with the car not starting when the key was turned.

    However the car still has the problem of dying while driving with no warning - sometimes it bucks or sputters and keeps going, somtimes it just conks out but will restart right away. The mechanic can't seem to put his finger on the problem and has fixed or checked out every warning error displayed in the history log of the diagnostic computer. Has anyone else had similar trouble or does anyone have an idea of what the problem might be. Also, when it does this the "Service Engine Soon" light comes on until the car is shut off and when restarted the light apparently resets itself until the next episode.
  • The best race story i have for my aRORA is a yellow vette and a yellow stang GT were lined up next to each other i pulled up behind the stang not thinking much of it at the time then i realised that they were going to race, i pushed the power button and took off traction control. The light turned green and off they went i stayed back at first not to be a destraction the vette took the stang very easly then it was my turn. i stomped it as i saw the guy in the stang look back at me as i went flying pased him, i just smiled and waved then i caught up to the vette rode next to him for a second then we both took off i kept up with him for a while then he was gone. ps this was all while i had a cylender mis fire.

    and just last week i had a full tank of gas and a total of 3people in the car. i was crusin down the interstate with the windows down and music up, when i looked in my mirror and saw a cavilier (one of the better racers here ((its fully modified and looks nice for a cavi)) come weaving up on me i rolled up the windows and waited for him to catch up to me and i took off weaving back and forth through traffic keeping him a little ways behind me. we got onto an open streach of road and he got becide me i womped it and took off i kept topping out at 110 ( not autobahn) and he was starting to catch up to me and i reached my exit, got infront of him flashed my hazards at him and it was over.
  • I have an 01 aurora well I had problems with it starting It would just start when it wanted to so I took it to someone and they said starter so I fixed it and it starts up but now it runs rough almost like its gonna cut off at any time it also has the check eng like flashing and the still.When the light flashs I smell a burning smell coming out of the vents.I dont understand what is going on I just paid all this money and now I have another problem somebody help!!!!!!
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