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Nissan Quest 2004+



  • I had to pull both sides to replace my bumper skin. I am pretty sure it is only those two screws, but there are a couple of thoes expanding guide pins that hold the unit pretty secure. It requires a pretty good tug to pop them out (I thought I was going to break something off). I have a shop manual on CD at home. If you send me your email I will try to look it up and/or send you the diagram.
  • carzzzcarzzz Posts: 282
    Yes... pulls out stright with GREAT FORCE! When i bought the van, I want to change the cornering signal to amber for safety issue. However, even put on amber light bulb, it stills has the red turning signal. I had some hard time pulling it out. Do this, hold the top and bottom of the fixture, and give one strong hard pull and the fixture come off easily.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    Did the new chain work? Not surprised by the dealership's attitude.

    Why did you pay 20% more for the Quest over the domestics? After test driving my 2004 Quest, I quickly eliminated the Freestar and Grand Caravan. My Quest was cheaper then the Freestar and about the same as the GC.
  • famo,

    Can you send me contact information on your local dealer thst told you about a failures on Nissan 3.5 timing chain tensioners? My email is


  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,681
    I think there may be a problem with the heated seats in the Quest.

    My 05 Quest SE (for the second time now) has drained the battery because the heated seats were on and the van was off.

    This is my diagnosis anyway.

    The front passenger heated seat was on and the door was left ajar; not open, but not fully closed. An hour later the the van wouldn't turn over

    We experienced this problem once before but the key was in the ignition; the van was not turned on.

    We've never experienced any type of starting or charging problem before.

    I called the “free” road side assistance. They said they couldn't come out because I was at 37400mi and that the roadside assistance expired; or they would could out with a fee of $70 (don't think that included the actual work)

    So I bought a Black & Decker – Simple Start ($40)...charged it up and plugged it into the lighter; 10 minutes later I started it up.

    I told my wife to make sure the doors are always closed when the van is off.
  • That's too bad. Interesting that you're seeing the problem too. Do you only hear the problem at a certain RPM as I did?
    I would suggest everyone rev their engine slowly building, while parked, up to about 4,000 rpm, and see if you hear the noise. If you do, take it in. I didn't hear the noise until a certain RPM and only at that exact rpm. So, a quick rev up and back down didn't completly reveal the problem.
    The dealer said that if it wasn't fixed, over time it would wear through some of the chain guides causing further damage.
    My dealer (service manager) said they are seeing it in 'everything' with the 3.5, including Infiniti.
  • Actually mine is obvious chain noise that turns into a buzz as the rpms increase. It is more of a clatter at low rpm, especially now that it is cold. Did I say previuosly that I thought it was the primart tensioner? Now I am not so sure. :confuse: I found a TSB about defective secondary tensioners! After zero help from my dealer I contacted Nissan directly. They are very helpful and friendly on the phone (at the toll free #), but I have been waiting for more than two weeks for their regional rep to call me. Is there a chance that you could post or email me your dealer contact info? My email is

    Thanks a bunch!

  • carzzzcarzzz Posts: 282
    can you describe about your transmission slipping? Just want to see you have the same problem. I am experiencing slightly slipping from 1-2, 2-3, the rpm goes up by 100-500rpm in between shift (similar to the new camry V6 flare but not 1k rpm slip). Mostly occur the vehicle/transmission is warmed up. Mine is a 4 speed unit. Funniest thing is that even i bought it to the dealer's mechanic, and they said it's normal... :sick:

  • I am trying to remove my rear bumper skin and I read in the forum that you have done this before. Do you have a diagram that you can send me that would show me how to remove that bumper skin. Or if you have any pointers on how to get that bumper skin off that would be great. My email address is I appreciate it very much.
  • I found the actual TSB on line about six weeks ago. I sent it to my local dealer and to Nissan USA. As usual, my local dealer did nothing and Nissan USA did not respond.

    Now for the good news....

    I took my Quest on a trip to Florida (Disney), from PA. The chain noise grew worse. I contacted a local dealer and they repaired it UNDER Warranty. I told them the whole story even about my local dealers warranty claim denial because I did not have oil change receipts. The mechanic rolled his eyes and said if he pulled off the timing cover and there was no sign of neglect (sludge, etc.) that Nissan had no grounds to deny the claim. He took it apart and found that the retaining hook at the end of the chain guide had broken off and the nylon (or duron or whatever the material is) slid on the metal support. This caused the chain tensioner to completely extend but still not press the guide enough to adequately tension the chain.

    There is more, but suffice to to say that my quest runs like a QUIET top. If I lived in Orlando I would definitely give Bill Ray Nissan a look for my next minivan since I see at least one more in my future. There is no way I would buy another one locally. I have no faith in the dealership

    Thanks to all for your advice and for "listening".

  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    What dealer di you buy from? I also live in PA.
  • Porecco Nissan in Erie PA. Their service manager is technically weak (to put it kindly) and they made no attempt to be my advocate when the chain guide failure occurred. If they were the only car dealership in Erie, I would ride the bus. Like I said, Bill Ray Nissan in Orlando fixed it under warranty and it purrs like a kitten.
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    I'm glad you got it fixed. I live in south central PA.
  • anyone have a problem with this system? my alarm started sounding real sick then completely failed.

    2004 Quest SL
    105 kms
  • carzzzcarzzz Posts: 282
    My Quest is experiencing tranmission flare; noticable from 2nd-3rd. The rpm spikes up by a couple hundred.

    To all the Quest owners

    Does your Quest shift like this?!id=.5bc80d99

    Mine is 4 speed auto. This problem occurs after the tranmission warmed-up after 15 mintues drive. No flare when the tranny is cold. There is nothing wrong with the techometer. The engine rawrs at the spike. Dealer(s) denied this "issue", and said it is functioning within spec & "You have an excellent tranny."... lol

    Suggestion or advice is welcome.
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,681
    Never seen that on the 5speed. Though a half dozen times in the last 3 years it has down shifted then quickly up shifted to the same gear...this while cruising at very slow speeds...10ph or so.

    I have noticed that the vehicle shifts smoother when I don't watch the tach...old habits of driving manual cause me to slightly lift the throttle which causes it to shift rougher than it should
  • dtownfbdtownfb Posts: 2,918
    It looked like the tach may have jumped 100-200 rpms????? I don't see a problem. Are there any other issues while driving? Also you have a 5yr/60k powertrain warranty.
  • carzzzcarzzz Posts: 282
    Thanks for the replies. The tach did jumped by 100-200rpm & the engine also was revving up. I am not sure about this is a programmable error or mechanical problem. The transmission revs up by 200-500rpm when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. I have never seen a automatic transmission shift like that when it is warmed up. I have a steady foot; my family members could also dublicate this problem. I agree this video may looks "normal", but I may have to record a video during summer, which sometime i see it revs up by as much as 500rpm.
  • frankiewfrankiew Posts: 10
    Hello all,
    I have an 05 Nissan Quest and cant seem to get my Interior lights (Not the DASH lights) to come on i have checked the fuses under the hood and in the Auto. Any one got any clue to where I can look next. My wife needs it especially when she when darkness comes.. they all just WENT OUT???

  • It seems to me it just an switch or knob in the same area as the sensor override button is (lower left dash on my 2004) I will check it out when I get home.
  • frankiewfrankiew Posts: 10
    Hey Calvin i have done every thing but PULLED the cover off that KNOB and still Nothing.. Not even when i attempt to turn them to the ON position... Got me fustrated and my Wife concerned also.
    Thanx for taking a look when you get home also..
  • ckeoughckeough Posts: 15

    I haven't been here is a while. My tranny "slipped" with the tach needle going up, but was also noisy during some slips giving out a "grinding or whining" sound under acceleration. This was not all the time, usually when turning to the right and up a slight incline. Dealer's mechanic went for a ride with me one morning and it took 5 miles of turns to get it to do the problem, he immediately said "It's slipping, we need to replace it"

    Recently the "vibration' at 2100 RPM has started and I did find TSB 04096. This appears to be the exhaust problem reported by many. Never felt this before, van has 29000; 2006 S.

  • frankiewfrankiew Posts: 10
    for some reason my Nissan interior lights wont come on NONE of THEM?? Anybody got any Clues???

    Thanx in advance
  • ivan_99ivan_99 Posts: 1,681
    Did you check the fuses?

    You mean each individual light or the master switch to the left of the steering that turns them on all at once? BTW...did you check the obvious to make sure the master switch is not turned off...and is in the door position?
  • frankiewfrankiew Posts: 10
    Hey Ivan I checked each Fuse( They dont particularily say Interior lights (ANYMORE) But I toned out each one of them and I have the Position for Door and also tried it for the ON Position also. Let me know what you think. Checked all fuses even those under the HOOD included???

  • Calvin,
    I'm trying to pull the rear bumper skin on my 04 Quest to replace a backup sensor.
    I think I got all the fasteners off. 4 black expansion pins underneath, 2 bolts under the taillight housings plus the little twist locks . 2 bolts up near the mud guard.
    The problem I'm having is the 3 or 4 clips on each side at the seam where the skin meets the quarter panel. I dont want to pull too hard and break it. Is there some secret to getting this thing off without damaging it. I wouls really appreciate any advice you could provide!
  • Mark,

    I dont remember exactly, but I think ther clips you are talking about are just expansion type with plastic screws that strip & shread when you try to back out the screw. I will take a look when I get home (about an hour) & update if needed.

    I am pretty sure I just replaced them all after I destroyed most of them trying to remove them.

  • Hi Calvin,
    Thanks for the reply.
    Actually I was able to get those 4 plasitc fasteners off. The problem I am having is getting the bumper skin pulled off the back. There seams to be some kind of snap type fasteners on on each side, at the seam between the bumper skin and the quarter panel. I'm guessing that the whole thing slides off the back once all these are undone but it seems like something is going to break if I pull too hard. There is no way to get a tool in there.

    Thanks again!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,572
    Hi Mark, not sure if this sheds a whole lot of light on your problem. Found it in an online manual.


    1. Remove rear combination lamp RH and LH assemblies.
    2. Disconnect sonar sensor harness connector, if equipped.
    3. Remove top and bottom clips from rear bumper fascia
    4. Remove rear bumper side brackets from rear bumper fascia. Twist bracket 1/4 turn to remove.
    5. Remove rear bumper fascia screws.
    6. Remove rear bumper fascia.
    7. Remove rear bumper side brackets.
    8. Remove bumper reinforcement. Separate energy absorber and rear bumper reinforcement.
    9. Remove step pad from rear bumper fascia.
    10. Disconnect harness from sonar sensors, if equipped.
    11. Remove sonar sensors and retainers from rear bumper fascia, if equipped. Separate sensors and retainers.
    12. Remove sonar sensor harness from rear bumper fascia.
    13. Remove drafter duct from rear bumper area.

    Installation is in the reverse order of removal.

    Here's a photo that hopefully will be big enough to see too.

    Steve, visiting host
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