Anyone having a problem with wheel balancing ?

I have a new 2002 2WD Highlander Limited with the upgraded Michelin tires and have 4K miles on it. I drive on a smooth surface 16 miles per work day. I don't usually drive at speeds over 60 mph. Some where about 2,500 miles while on a 50 mile weekend trip. I noticed vibration in the steering wheel acting like one or more of the wheels were out of balanced. I have rotated the wheels once and they have been balanced 3 times. I'm still having vibration in the steering wheel in the 65 to 70 mph range. The balancing has reduced the vibration somewhat, however it is still there. Has anyone else had a similar problem??
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Second, get the car off the ground and spin the wheels one at a time and watch the circle being made. If the tire bobs up and down as it spins, you may have an out-of-round tire that needs replacing. If the tire moves left and right as it spins, a little is usually okay, but a lot of sideways movement may mean the tire must be replaced.
I speak from experience, and some of it is very recent! Good luck.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/general/vibechart.htm
aorta
Check those other possibilities, if nothing shows up, have another shop balance the tires and see what happens.
I took my vehicle to a tire shop for 4 new tires.
Up until then - I had no problems at any speed (80 mph). The new tires + balancing were terrible. At 60 mph, my watch on my wrist was shaking from the steering wheel.
I went back to complain (but I had secretly marked the weight locations - so I could tell if they re-balanced them). Anyway - they got the manager to rebalance the tires. When I looked at my previous marks to where the new weights were, some of the weights had changed location by at least 6 inches.
Looks like even a few inches of error placing a weight can cause problems.
If it were me I'd ask some of the local custom wheel/tire shops where they send their alignment jobs to (if they don't do them in house). I'm talking about the places that sell fancy wheels to all the kids with Hondas and rich people with Escalades and the like. A great alignment shop is worth it's weight in gold so it pays to do some prospecting.
Best wheel balancer there is.
No balance problems after they pros did their thing. Don't blame the techs at sam's-they were overwhelmed and probably paid as little as possible. You could have the same experience anywhere-just keep your eyes open and don't let them use impact wrenches even with torque sticks to tighten lug nuts on wheels with disc brakes.
Anyway when you see more than 10 grams of add on weights [0-5 better] on a Michelin you know something is wrong!
Depending on the rigidity of the suspension and driver sensitivity a 5-7 gram imbalance is feelable. [[we set with a max error of 2 grams]]
Many wheels/tires leave a typical shop already out of balance! There is a secret coarse switch on most balancers that rounds to the nearest 1/4-1/2 ounce [7-10-14 grams]......make sue you see odd numbers displayed not just 0 or 10 or 20 grams.....0.25...0.50.....0.75 ounces etc!
If you see your weights are in factional ounces you know you are not getting a precision balance!
as 2.5 gram [~~1/8 ounces] weights are available!
What most don't understand is new tires will change in the first 250 miles,then again in another 250, as they set to the not so round wheels. By 1,000 miles they are bent into submission, then by 3,000 the rate of change per mile is pretty constant.....IF they last that long!
Remember US GOV tests show that less than 1/3 of current tires sold will meet the NEW proposed standards [current standards date back to 1968]! [Only 7% of the S and T rated will].
The tire industry is spending BIG MASSIVE to defeat or delay new standards....tires will cost $15 more each since they will have to be stronger!
Many people install good tires on bad [excessive runout- not round or parallel] wheels forcing the good tires to conform in ways they may not be strong enough to do. Thousands of the millions of tiny cords [rubber/polyester bands] snap inside as you add driving stress, the overlap tears on the weakest side and the tire get a hernia.....thus the excess weights to balance the internal bulge.
Any tire that has 60 grams [more than 2 ounces] means trouble but you need to have the wheel checked first [alone no tire] making sure it's in factory spec!
Tire are only designed to be mounted on PERFECT WHEELS!
Improper mounting techniques [forcing]not deflating after mounting and reinflating again to stress relieve the bead is a common problem in speed first shops!
All new tire wheel combos should be tested on a Hunter 9700 radial force measurement machine to make sure that less than 5-10 pounds of [EXCESS] force is being generated at 70 mph [this is what's done at the factory in the match mount process].
I bought a 1997 4x4 S-10 back at the end of 1996. It had a noticible "shake" at 55-60 MPH. I took it back to the dealer, they did the usual "quick-fix" stuff and deemed it "OK". Bottom line, it still shook. They replaced the tires (Michelins), truck still shook.
I pulled the driveshaft myself, took it to the local driveshaft shop for a balance check. The tech there just about laughed his buns off, as the shaft was so far out of whack. (about 0.035" of runout) I told him to make up a new one, but he said it's still under warranty, let GM pay for it.
Went back to the dealer, told them what happened, they still tried to weasel out of it, and had the OE shaft "balanced" somewhere else. Again, truck still shook.
I had new shaft made at local shop, paid for it myself, called 1-800 at Chevrolet, threatened legal action, got reimbursed for shaft, truck now smooth as silk.
I have a 01 4WD V6. at about 42,000km (canadian Metric system) felt steering wheel shudder at about 110 km (65 mph), took the truck in to the dealer. Told that it was the balancing, they balanced for free, did not fix the issue. had a tech do a road test, he confirmed the shudder. He told me that when Toyota ships the Hihglander potential build up of rust on the front brake discs hub which causes a not so perfect fit of the rims to the hub. This causes the shake and shudder, dealer replaced the discs, viola shudder and shake is gone as not returned. I too have the OEM Goodyear Integrity crap tires. less than average rubber for a decent truck.
A also had the front door weather seals replaced under warranty due to excessive crosswind noise.
Michelin cross terrain's will be the next set of tires I have put on. Better lateral grip in all types of weather.
Good luck to all.
I just bagged one set of Firestone rocks on my wife's 98 Sienna and am looking forward to doing the same on my 2001 Sienna.
Got the Michelin X-One clone from Costco and had the dealer balance and align.