Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions



  • meangene1meangene1 Posts: 11
    First off,I had an ongoing ac airflow problem that turned out to be low freon.We retrofitted it to 134,the R12 in it smelled strange though.
    Any way I have a new question pertaining to my 90 Silverado 350 5spd.Has anyone had any experience with a lopey idle perf cam not being compatible with the map sensor on this throttle body engine?
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    This is almost always a engine ground wire problem just remove clean coat with a little silicone grease (alot cheaper bought in a fly fishing store for keeping the line floating than auto store) reinstall it I know that sounds way to simple but is a common chevy problem.
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    I don't like to sell things for ppl but do a search on dogpile,com for TBI and you will find a company that sells risers and such but they also have a fuel pressure regulator that is ADJUSTABLE in half pound incrediments. The stock Chevy ones vary from 11 to 12 and most 350's run best around 13. You just click it up a half pound drive around up another half till it doesn't get better then drop back down one click. Makes the idle so much smoother and the acceleration difference is amazing. Highly recommend the riser with relief slot cut between the two injector sides to give balance and the injector pod riser. The extra 1/4" of space makes all the difference in free air intake around the injectors. I have a 93' if the 90' has the same air box on the passenger inner fender remove it. Buy a 2' long piece of white pvc 4" drain pipe. ($2) Cut the hose that went to the old box from the air cleaner about in the middle then warm it with a hair dryer to get it over the 4" pvc without spliting it. Shorten the pvc till the fit to the original fender inlet is good. (the 2" piece still in the fender) It's a perfect fit to the pvc. Top with a new K&N air filter element and you will have a much better breathing engine and minimum 2 mpg increase. No $75 to $175 air box upgrade bull and something fun to talk about at the next up hood meeting.
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    Please see reply/msg #465
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    I need to know what type/weight lube is working best for replacing the old goo?
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    I was fiddling around with my elec door locks to put in a remote/hidden button to pop the lock in case of accidently locking my keys in the truck.(Happened at the skating rink picking up my son and a couple of his friends I opened my door and then reached in and started the truck one of his buddies closed the door on his way by that my alarm had auto locked when I started the truck. Ya idle for 2 1/2 hours with the wipers on. Lifted them but no way to turn off the truck. Remote for the alarm hanging on the keychain, thanks chevy for a good sized radiator) anyway I accidently shorted one of the lock switch terminals. I have had no elec locks since. I replaced the switch but nothing have checked every fuse I can find all ok. Are there some hidden fuses somewhere?
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    probably the crank or cam sensor if it doesn't "see" them turning it shuts down the fuel injectors. Junster
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    Hard to diagnose this online but when my fan was rolling but no air was really going it was the little wire with a coil on the end that fastens to the heater baffle under the center of the dash I just worked the buttons air/hewater buttons and watched via flashlight for something to move when I saw the wire going but hooked to nothing it became obvious. As far as How cold can be a worn air compressor can be in need of a recharge, can just be a slipping drive belt. Make sure the serpentine belt isn't badly cracked or worn so badly that the grooves are thru to deep in the cords. I'd make sure your getting the baffles open all the way and letting th4e air flow. It takes mine at least 10 minutes to really get cold.I have a 93" too. Junster
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    the new Pioneer deh-P8MP is about the best head unit out there. I have a alpine top of the line head unit that plays mp3 and normal cds has no internal amp at all work strictly off external amps I paid $750 for it. I trade it in a sec for this new Pioneer. It was designed from a broad collection of pioneer user input on what the idea car cd would be. It plays cd, wav, wmp (windows format actually with media player 10 is a good format) and mp3. Its satellite ready but with almost all car stereos you need the sirius under dash unit for pioneer it's SIR-PNR1 plugs right in. when you look this unit up online you'll see its way different than the "normal" car unit. All the user interface is on the driver side and the passenger side is all display. almost all the functions are controled with the main volume knob. It rocks in 7 different angles to select the mode you want, to adjust just turn. Works same as the optional audio stuff on new BMW's. Pioneer tuners have been best for FM for the last 2-3 years at least and couple it with a truly high quality set of 2 way separates in your doors and you'll be glad you did. Good quality speakers are in the 350 to 800 range. Where the differences really show is after they have been in the truck a year or so. A set of MK quartz separates cranked countless times, doors slammed over and over. windows open in the rain overnight. yada yada. will still be singing. cheap speakers will have died and caused you plenty of greif they always fail right when your tring to really show off. I bought my amps and bass from ebay and saved about 60% off retail key to ebay is be patient bid once 30 secs before the auction closes and bid the amount you are willing to pay. If it goes that high no suprize over and you wait for the next auction, less and you can affords better quality wires. there are 2 amps a dual coil 10" bass in a custom box fit behind the pass seat. the head unit, pair of $750 door speakers a after market set of pioneer 4" in the rear door columns and the originals in the dash, in my truck. the wiring was $200. If you truly want a 200hp Cowboy jukebox on wheels. do it right. the first time you pull up along side some snot nose kid with a blaring cheap tinny stereo blasting the latest rap. and you roll down your windows halfway or so and then let him have a taste of Toby Keith that shakes his doors he'll flip you off go peeling away and leave you with the most satisfing grin you have had in a long time. sorry to rant Junster
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    use a piece of 1/4" doweling about 3' long with the truck running at the knocking point put the end of the dowel on the block then put your ear to the other end you can't believe how clearly you can hear whats going on this way. move the stick around carefull of the radiator fan. and see if the knock is in the top or bottom of the block. Top is usually a partially collapsed lifter that pumps up when the oil warms. noisy bottom is usually a bad thing. at least you will know. top can be a loose rocker arm too esp if the noise is strongest right under one of the valve covers. You will be able to locate the knock with in 3-4 inches with a dowel. Junster
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    Contact Chevrolet directly and tell them you are getting unsatifactory service form your dealer Chevy takes those calls very seriously.
  • junsterjunster Posts: 12
    O2 sensor will just give you bad milage and a to rich mix. Check crank sensor and cam sensor if the ground wire dosnt help. Note: replacing the single wire O2 sensor with a 3 or 4 wire one is a great upgrade. My 93' works well with a 3 wire for a monty carlo. the extra 2 wires on a 3 wire are a 12v power and a ground. Heats the sensor up to the correct temp for reading the exaust residual gases in about 10 secs. The 1 wire most of the time never gets hot enough to work right. 4 wire ones have separate grounds for the heater coil and the sensor but the 3 wire is fine for the lvl of computing chey trucks do. Junster
  • madman3madman3 Posts: 1
    I have a new 2005 4door z71 pickup with only 4500 miles on it. The front brakes overheat to the point where you can't touch the rim and the front end will start to shimmey. This only happens after I drive over about 60 miles or so and when it's over about 75-80 degrees outside. The dealer says they can't duplicate the problem (imagine that). Anyone have a similar problem / solution?
  • baggedbagged Posts: 1
    i have a 93 chevy dually check engine light on and all it say is "43 esc" it runs fine but when under a load it bogs .. after it comes out of the load range it shoots out like a rocket i can figure out how to fix it ...ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS ???
  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    If the brakes are overheating while driving, and not when they're actually being applied, I'd have them check for a stuck caliper or a kinked brake line. Sounds like something is applying pressure to the brakes without driver interaction. If this turns out to be the cause, I'd probably push for new pads & rotors too.. if the rotors have been heated that many times, they are probably warped & will cause a pulsation in the brake pedal (a personal pet peeve of mine!), plus your pads are most likely prematurely worn, maybe not all the way, but much more than they should be with 4500 miles.
  • hey,

    it could be your ring and pinion,(differential), i had that problem with my 93 chevy 1500. mine went out on me. if it starts making a winding, or a siren noise, then it is your rear end.
  • pour some gas in the carburator, let it sit for about 10 15 min. then try it. what prob. happened is the carburator is bone dry. hope it helps
  • you could have a few chipped or broken teath on your fly wheel. i had that problem, it will start sometimes and others it wont
  • Originally i posted this problem in the wrong forum and ive worked on the truck more so i figure its better for me to post it here. Anyway i have a 97 silverado with a 350 vortec in it that has decided to die on me. Originally when you first started it up it would run then die within a few seconds and you could restart it and it would be fine, it did this intermitently. Then a week or so ago i stopped at a gas station and bought a soda then came out and the truck would die when you gave it gas. The truck flat out quit on me for a few minutes then restarted and would run like crap for a quarter of a mile then die again. Luckily i was only 3 miles from home so i limped home i never once got a check engine light to come on. I got out my book on the truck and started checking readings on all the different sensors and everthing checked out ( i did trip a few trouble codes while doing so but i cleared them.)

    At this point i decided to go for the basics , its eather fuel or fire so i replaced my fuel filter and since i didnt have a fuel pressure gauge i placed one in line where the filter normally went, The pressure read 20 when you first turn the key on the 65 when you started the truck , if you stomped the gas and the truck died the pressure never dropped from 65 so i figured thats not my problem. Additionally the whole fuel system was eitehr replaced or flushed by the dealership around 10k ago so i really didnt think it was my problem but hey i checked it anyway. I also changed my tps becuase i got a trouble code from it but it turns out i caused that trouble code by having it unplugged when i started it once ( oops ) Then someone on the web mentioned the MAF sensor might be dirty so i took it out and cleaned it which it really didnt seem to need it ( looked clean and shiny )

    Next i changed my distributor cap and button even though they too didnt look like they needed it. I noticed when i changed them that the distributor was loose so i thought maybe that was my problem. I adjusted it back and forth and i got no change so i got online and read that i needed to get the engine to tdc and line the button up with the number 8 molded into the base of the distributor ( not the number 8 contact but the number 8 on the base of the distributor cap ) I lined it up and locked down the loose hold down clamp and still no luck. The truck runs like absolute crap, it idles pretty good but as soon as you put it under load like shifting it into reverse it dies. If you step on the gas fast it dies, if you real slowly give it gas it will rev up in park allmost like normal but you have to be real slow on the gas pedal. Anyone have any ideas? Ive gotten to the point ive told my neighbor to look out for the flaming truck rolling down the hill towards his house because i feel like setting this thing on fire.
  • Have you figured out why your truck wouldn't go in reverse? I am currently experiencing the same problem. I have a 02 GMC 2500HD Crew Cab and I went to back up the other day, put it in reverse and the truck would go nowhere. Once the truck has cooled it will back up. Have taken to 2 shops (one transmission) and they cannot figure out.

    Would love to find the problem quick!
  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    Not sure of your mileage, but a fluid & filter service might be a good starting point if you haven't done this already. A dirty filter can prevent fluid from going into the valve body & cause problems like the transmission not going into the correct gear.
  • I have a 2000 silverado, 4.3L V6 with 81,000 miles. And for the past 2 months or so, it starts up fine and the engine sounds good until you give it gas at all. And until the temperature is almost all the way to normal operating temperature, the engine feels like it misses alot and I can't figure out what is wrong. This happens mostly above 2000 rpm. About 6 months ago, I replaced spark plugs, fuel filter, distributor cap and rotor, and air filter. Recently, I took it to the local shop, who said it was the fuel pump. Had that replaced, no difference. My guess was either the oxygen sensor or crankshaft position sensor, but the check engine light should be on if it was either of those. any help would be great!
  • ducker1ducker1 Posts: 3
    I had the same problem with my 02 noticed it more when wheel was turned to the left. took in to dealer they said they took the steering shaft apart and greased and it was fixed. that occured at 22k i sold it at 57k with no more problems. I now have an 04 crew cab with 25k and its doing the same thing.
  • isaacintxisaacintx Posts: 1
    I recently got a hold of a 1984 Chevy Silverado, and I am wanting to install a cd player to it, the previous owner had replaced the old cassette deck with a new cassette deck(why i have no clue) but he did the wiring all himself and i cannot find the remote or ignition wires that would normaly hook up to a cd deck, the only wires i have been able to find are the power and ground wires, my friend said that in order to power the cd player i need to find the remote wire, i already tried to just use the power and ground, but nothing works, so can someone tell me where i can find the remote, or where i can add a wire that would be a remote wire, i would really appreciate the help. :)
  • aeh4543aeh4543 Posts: 1
    My husband is currently on the road, on his way home from California to Michigan. He's been on the interstate since 0700 PST, and it's currently 1740 MST. He started having problems at about 1700 MST. This problem has occurred before today, but obviously he has not been able to solve it yet.

    The current problem is that the truck keeps losing power (it has only stalled out once so far) - he cannot seem to go past 25 mph. When the engine temperature reaches 220 to 230, the vehicle will start backfiring when the accelerator is taken past one quarter open throttle (when he pushes the accelator more than 1/4 of the way down, the truck starts backfiring and losing power; the more he pushes down, the worse the backfiring gets).

    So far he's been able to deal with this by pulling the truck off the road and allowing the engine to cool off for anywhere up to an hour.

    Considering that he has over 1500 miles to go, I'm trying to find a fix that will at least get him home (and we can take a more in-depth look then).

    Any ideas?
  • The brake light wont come on except the cargo light, and i cant seem to find out why. I am thinking of bypassing it by tapping into the cargo light and seeing which one of the wires running to the taillights operates the brake lights. Do any of you guys have any suggestions. This truck need brake lights. Or else i cant pull the cabinet shops trailer.

    The hazards all work, blinkers, running lights. All of it. No bulbs are burnt out, and no fuses gone. I also changed by brake switch, And no luck there.

    It would be appreciated
    Ray a New member. :confuse:
  • mm1422mm1422 Posts: 3
    I am looking into getting a leveling kit installed in my 2005 Chevy Silverado and wanted to ask if anyone had any suggestions, recommendations, or anything else that would be useful.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    You want to bring the front up? or the back down? Knowing that will greatly increase the odds of a correct reply.
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    220-230 deg. is not normal operating temperature for that vehicle. More likely 205 deg. is. Often, especially with engines with lots if miles, pre-detonation (misfiring) occurs when running that hot. I suggest he check into a garage to have the cooling system tested. It could be something as simple as a stuck thermostat.

  • meangene1meangene1 Posts: 11
    I have a 95 K5 2 door.When the wife backs out in the morn and hits the last part of the driveway which drops on the right side-there is a clunk that sounds possibly like either a suspension part or maybe an axle as it is 4wd,
This discussion has been closed.