Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions



  • i have a 2000 silverado 1500 that has 54,000 miles on it, and it is havein trouble starting after it is warm.. but starts right up in the morning... i see you said somethin about maybe its the temp sensor, did that fix your problem?
    if so where is the sensor so i can change mine as well.. thanks..
  • mine is a 98 with a 5.7 vortec. when it first started I only had a little problem getting it started but kept getting harder. my fuel mileage dropped and had black smoke from running rich. the temp sensor is located on top in the front just below the thermostat. to check this unhook the connector and check voltage between the two wires. you should have 5volts. if this is good check the ohms on the sensor when the engine is cold reconnect the sensor start the truck and let it warm up then check the ohms again. at 68 deg the ohms should be about 3520 at 86 they should be 2238 at 140 they should be 668 and at 194 deg they should be 240 ohms. I suggest you check this out before buying the sensor.
  • Take it to the dealer and have the computer reprogrammed. They will charge you about $40 and it doesn't make a lot of sense but it works. The way it was explained to me was that the computer doesn't tell the compressor to turn on when it is suppose to.
  • I have a 2000 Silverado 1500. 4.3 liter V6. Right now when I start it in the morning it starts fine but when I try and accelerate it doens't want to move. The entire truck shakes and sometimes it will die completely. If I put it in reverse about 50% of the time it will die also. I have had it put on a diagnostic but nothing showed up even though the service engine soon light was on. This problem only happens when it's been sitting for a long time and after it warms up it runs like a champ. Any ideas on what the problem could be? A friend of mine said it could be the spark plugs but I am thinking that's not the problem. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!
  • hey you will have to find out what makes it compliant from a dealership in your area and have them run an emmisssions check and it sould tell you what you have to change to make it compliant. Most liky youl need a new cadalitic converter
  • To override the parking lights simply pump the dome override button a few times until the dash beeps at you. It will allow you to control all of your lights. In order to reverse this simply repeat the process. Good luck and I hope this helps.
  • just wondering if any one could recommend the best way to level my 00 extended cab 1500 2wd. the front end sags about 2.5 inches lower than the rear. took it to a shop, but they said i would need a whole new front suspension, and that it would really cost me. i would like it to have the lift of a Z71 but not cost me a small fortune. any help would be appreciated
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    I don't know of any adjustment to raise the front end on the 2wd models, the 4x4's have been done quite often by posters on this site however but it's a whole different set-up over the 2wd trucks. The pitch of the truck is intended so with the rated load the truck is not dragging it's tailend on the road. Were it may not look "cool" it has an intended purpose. I suggest a lift kit if you just can't stand the "look" but you will not need " a whole new front suspension" as suggested by the shop you took it to.

    Ray T. :shades:
  • Need some help with brake problems on my 2004 chevy 1500 silverado. Having problems with peddle going to the floor board with no brakes unless I pump the peddle. No ABS light comes on and I don't here the unit come on either. Has happened at least 12 times since new 12/20/03. Chevy service says that brakes are normal and they find nothing wrong every time I have been into dealer. My problem is that I pull a 21 ft. boat with surge brakes on the trailer that only work when the towing vehicles brakes work. I have 19,000 miles on it and have been lucky so far. I have been towing the boat with my 78 chevy wagon with good brakes. The problem seems to occur when temp. is below 50 degrees outside.The problem is very intermittant. Any serviceman or owner with answer to this problem would greatly be appreciated. I am thinking something wrong with master cylinder like bad "O" rings. Chevy customer service pretty much told me, "IF IT AIN'T BROKE DON'T FIX IT. Pretty good for a $33.000 vehicle. Won't be buying any more GM products. Thanks for any come backs.
  • lhesslhess Posts: 379
    too often. About the speedometer, dealer ordered one, national backorder, finally got it after nearly 45 days (fun driving with no speedo) and they replaced it.
  • Hope you guys can help here. My truck randomly refuses to start and the security light on the dash flashes. Called Chevy roadside, said it will always reset if given time. That was comforting. Does it a lot. If I had a dime for every time,I could finance my next tank of gas. Hate it at the pumps or when I need to get to work!
    Note that when the blessed light burns steady on the dash, the truck will start but the system is disabled, also comforting. I live in the sticks and don't mind the disable thing, but this refusing to start isn't working well for me.(It's a long way to work from here) Apparently the system, when enabled, cuts the fuel to the engine. Any way I can just keep the *#$^ thing in the "disable mode" ? I tried to pull the fuse, since it seems to work with other problems,temporarily. No dice. Engine won't even click!
    Some of these solutions above are amazing. Can anyone fascinate me on this one? :confuse:
  • I drive a 2001 Silverado 4.8 size of engine. With 26Km on the engine.Recently while driving the "battery display" will stay on for a few seconds then go off. The cycle repeats every 4-7 seconds but never stays constantly on. A check with my FLUKE VOM while the engine is operating shows the alternator reads 14.25 volts at the battery terminals with minor changes of +.2 volts.
    The OEM battery "green" eye indicator is green with 12.4Vdc open curcuit and raises to 14.26 vdc when the truck engine is operating.The meter shows a good DC with next to nothing AC from the alternator P lead to the batterey
    Any ideas on how to fix.
  • This just started for me this weekend, twice..brake pedal goes to the floor, truck seems to keep rolling, I have to pump the pedal to get it to stop. 2002 silverado with 35k on it. Warm day, about 78 degrees. Had been driving around awhile.
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    Try the "Maitenanace & Repair" board with these problems (copy and paste the question from here to that board) Put the question out to user named "Opatience" he seems to be pretty good with helping out on problems. He does not visit this board though.

    Copy and paste his response once you get it to this board.

    Good Luck

    Ray T. :shades:
  • ihess

    I had my speedo replaced too free of charge. When I had mine done in march the dealer told me of many people with the same problem and it was taking months to get the parts. Maybee Chevy should send out a recall.
  • I have a 96 Chevy p/u with Vortec 8. Over past 3 months, sometimes I go out the truck will start and sometimes it just keeps turning but won't crank. A year ago, the check engine lite came on and they told me it was the crank shaft position sensor, put a new one in but we never could get the check engine lite to go out. Over the past 3 months, we have put a new fuel pump on the truck, a new ignition module, another crank shaft position sensor and today again it has decided not to crank. Has anybody had this problem or have any suggestions. I can't afford to keep taking it to the repair shop, the mechanic finally said he was experimenting by swapping out parts until the truck cranked. I have talked to several other automotive repair shops and most of them don't want to touch the truck.
  • Does this always happen with the same key and did you have this key cut? The security system takes a reading from the key and this could be giving some problems. When I put in my remote start I had to bye and install a device that copies the key signature to start it without a key.
  • The dealer says it is the EBCM (electronic break control module) which I believe it most likely is, but they also said it was leaking coolant, and it is not. To have the dealer fix it would cost about $1K. I have been looking into doing it myself. There are people who rebuild the modules, and from what I understand, you do not have to open the hydraulics to do it. It is in a tight place on top of the ABS pump. The low coolant light was due to slightly low fluid level (my fault). The fuel gage will have to wait.
  • Hi all....

    Well, I figured out what the "odd" sounds were coming from my truck. It turns out that I had an exhaust leak. I got a glass pack (on my 89 silverado...v8) hooked to a y pipe with duals. It sounds pretty good. It isnt to loud, but it has a nice compressed growl. It was what I was looking for. Anyway, I am wondering what I should do next.

    I am wanting to make this a racing truck. The only problem is that I have an automatic transmission, and am afraid of putting on things like super chargers and what not. I dont want to screw anything up, ya know?

    As far as looks go, I was wanting to scoop my hood. I was told that this was very stupid to do unless you had something to fit in there....Because it would slow the performance of your truck down.

    So what can I do to make my truck a racing truck...It is basically stock, and it can haul. I killed a v6 cheyenne the other night....It really surprised everyone, and was told with just a few mods, my truck could be an awesome truck to take to the strip.

    Any suggestions?
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    Go here
    If your mechanically adapt you can do this yourself. The ABS module is under the truck on drivers side frame rail. D.I.Y instructions are on the website also.

    Ray T. :shades:
  • Yes, I have a fix, and if you are a little handy you can fix it for good, for almost no cost!!

    It is most likely a bad resistor wire in the ignition key circuit. I had same problem. Every once in a while, my '98 Sily would not start. Drove me nuts. I noticed my "security" light coming on every once in a while while I was driving.

    Anyway, after getting stuck enough times, I finally got ambitious and did the permanent bypass trick on the security wire. I found some instructions on the web. I cut the yellow wire, then measured the cranking ohms resistance at 577. Then off to Radio Shack, where they had 560 ohm resistors +/- 5%. I bought a pack of five for 99 cents. I measured the resistors to find the best one. Closest I could get (to 577) was 554 ohms, so I soldered that one onto the yellow wire (processer end) and into the orange/brown wire. Total cost for parts; about $2, yeah baby!

    The instructions said I needed to be within 1% to 2% on the ohms. I was more like 4% off the 577, but the truck fired right up with no problem.

    This trick permanently bypasses those tiny little wires that go to the cylinder lock. Still working perfectly (after eight months). Plus, I went to see a buddy of mine who works with electronics and he built me a 576 ohm resistor using three in series. Someday I might install my new resistor which is almost exactly the measured cranking resistance.

    Look on the web and you can find instructions, I forgot the link I used or I'd post it for you. Just make sure the instructions are applicable to your vehicle.

    This should fix you right up.
  • 2 problems, 2 solutions.

    For compressor problems, check to see if system was properly flushed and exp valve replaced during last compressor changeout. To prevent springtime startup failure, run air periodically during winter to keep system lubed and sealed.

    For low air flow on Max AC setting, check recirc intake above front passenger footwell for debris (like a plastic bag) thay could be partially blocking or sucked into intake.
  • I have a 1995 Silverado HD 2500 extended cab 6.5 turbo diesel that the engine dies while driving down the road. I have replaced several switches related to the fuel system to correct an on going problem. It started dying again and now the dealership says it is the fuel injection pump which was covered under a special policy untill 120,000 miles or 11 years, whichever came first. I have 141,000 miles on the truck and they want 2,000 dollars to fix it. I am trying to negotiate some relief in this repair. So far they have denied my requests. Did you find a solution to your problem?
  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    These engines are known for this exact problem.. it could possibly be just the PMD unit. It's a small electronic box that sits next to the injection pump on top of the intake. For whatever reason, GM placed it right where it's going to pickup alot of heat. Over time, the heating/cooling effect kills this box. It's basically the computer control for the injection pump. You can pick up a new PMD on ebay for not a whole lot of money.. you'll even find many people offering the new PMD on a remote mount with a heat sink where you can mount the PMD away from the engine which solves the heat problem. It's a plug in installation & is very simple. Not saying it's not the pump, but I know many dealers jump the gun & say it's the pump when it may only be the PMD. Here's a link to what I'm referring to:

    link title
  • I have a 2003 Silverado and the tailgate falls going down the road also. Do you have a spray in bedliner? I wa :confuse: s also wondering if there was a recall on this issue.
  • my truck drivers side door could not close easy. would have to literally lift the door and shut the door. i did bought the hinge pin & bushing repair kit. the door still wont close... where may i done wrong or overlooked something??

    let me know asap cuz i am tired of getting in and out from passenger door, lol
  • My truck has a 5.3 engine that starts perfect when cold but you have to pump the accelerator or hold it down to start when hot. Is there a sensor or something that I can replace? Can't afford the shop prices. THANKS!
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    Do you have a starting problem like if you drive to a store park for 25 min to 1 hr and then its hard to start? Try checking your fuel pressure regulator. Pull the vacuum tube off after driving a bit. If you get gas out of the tube then your FPR is bad. $40 part and 10 min to change. I just had this problem on my 00 with 55K miles
  • Hello,
    I own a 99 chevy silverado, and some times my windows go up really slow, even stop some times.. The other day I rolled my window down, and it would not go back up. I drove all the way to work with it down, and then on the way home from work, I was just messing with the switch and it went up. I am half afraid to roll it down now!!! Anyone have any ideas????
  • try checking all your fuses thats always a good place to start
This discussion has been closed.