Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

bigfur

Someone please correct me if im wrong... but wasnt the sticky throttle caused by carbon build up near the intake??? I recall all you had to do was take the air intake hose off and run a rag around it to wipe the build up off and it would usually work normal again. once again PLEASE correct me if im wrong!

rreed1

:shades: you should have your injector rails and injectors cleaned.

rreed1

No you are correct. 5 minutes tops
:shades:

outbrakeridah

Okay so this happened last night. Came back from running errands then while driving around the complex to look for parking I noticed that the shifting was really hard as it upshifted. This morning I got in and started it up and started going. Was fine then all of a sudden when I turned out onto the street and gave it gas, it started to slip and I heard grinding noises as I gave it more gas. It felt like the gears were engaging and disengaging. I decided to turn back around and take it home and when I got to my parking spot to try to back it in, it wouldn't go into reverse. I turned off the engine and turned it back on and now reverse is okay. I backed it into my parking and now I'm pondering over what is wrong with it. Does anyone here have had similar experience? I'm hoping I don't have to rebuild my whole tranny cause its going to cause some money. Any input will be appreciated and figures also for those who have experienced it.

pickles077

The sticky throttle occurred on our 2000 Tahoe with the 5.3
engine. The fix was to clean the intake where the butterfly works and install a small piece of some type to help prevent further problems. Our vehicle was fixed by a GM mechanic and we have not had a problem since the repair.

The repair had been made once before without the part being added and we had the problem again.

loweredchevy

i have a 2002 chevrolet silverado that is slugish in 1st and lose power at the beging of 2nd then power comes back. Tuned up truck and still have problem. Truck has b$m shift kit and corvette cervous. This problem started a month after tranny work and a day after it rained for two days. Truck has full power in 3rd and OD. If any i dea what this is plese write back thanks.

minuekitty

o__O;;; okay. my chevy silverado has been working absolutely perfectly since it was purchased new in 2004. it only has 12,520 miles on it as of this morning. at college, it was fine; at work at five it was fine...

until i got in it after work. >_<;; mine is set to automatically lock when you shift gears from park; when it tried to do so, the doors made a horrid noise. i experimented with it some: when unlocking with the power door locks, it makes two quick subsequent clicking noises. when locking, it makes an almost... griding of gears noise. it's a short one, but kind-of loud and mostly based in the driver's side door. i'm unsure what could have caused it, considering i didn't really drive it much today in the first place.

my mother thinks it could be the battery (it's never been replaced, but i've not driven too terribly much), and i've read several threads saying a blown fuse may create a problem like mine.

any thoughts, guys? ( poor giant green cucumber. ;__; )

lwittorf

Try shuting off your defrost mode on heater mine is doing the same thing and just by going to the vent setting the poping stops my dealer tried several on lot all did it says it is where some tube goes up fire wall no fix as yet. I thought it was axle or something like that but not so. Hope you have better luck than I have.

timothy78us

try checking the plugs, i had same prob and i changed everything and it turned out to be the plugs, also check to make sure u r getting fuel

rdc1500

Anyone thats replaced power steering gear boxes, pitman arms, etc I could use your help.

Just put in a new power steering gear box and even though reference marks were made for reinstallation, a couple things are off now. 1) The wheels are ok in relation to each other but are turned a bit to the right. 2) From the center point where the steering wheel is, I can rotate the wheel 1.5 times to the left and 1.25 to the right, so I think maybe the gear could have been off a turn or two where the pinch bolt goes(?)

Does anyone know how the pitman arm should look in relation to the gearbox or truck body when the steering wheel is centered? Should it be parallel to the gear box or parallel with the front to back end of the truck?

With all that said, When moving the steering a little left to line the wheels up, the pitman is now parallel with the steering box and the max travel to the left and right from that point is the same. I'm wondering if things were off to begin with and maybe now the steering wheel should be moved... I can't seem to find any info on the pitman position. I haven't actually moved the steering wheel yet.

ndfan

I recently purchased a new 2006 V-6, manual transmission, Silverado (Work Truck model). Ever since buying it, I have had trouble shifting from neutral into 1st gear as well as shifting into reverse. The dealer told me the tranny would "loosen-up", but it still hasn't. So, I am wondering if anybody else has had a similar problem? And, if so, are there any solutions you could recommend?

PS: I have also noticed my truck's suspension sags lower on one side (like many others posted here), and would also appreciate any advice/opinions regarding this!

Thanks in advance for any help!!!

arivaca

At random the horn on my 05 2500hd continues to blow (instead of a beep) I tap horn button and the horn quits. Are the horn relays easy to find? a column bug? ??? :confuse:

calichevykid

so yesterday i drive to a store 5 min away im there for about 45 min then i come back to my truck. i turn the key and it starts cranking but then doesnt catch..instead it continuously makes a thud noise..finally i got it going but it wasnt idleing correct..it was very rough and jumpy. and was about to stall..so i stayed on the gas a little in park and i let go it didnt stall so i left and when i push on the gas it does the whole putt putting thing and then finaly gets going.. and then when it switches to the next gear it will start putting at the begining again...please help!! ohh also when it turned over it made a sharp squelching noise

estaka

How do I calibrate a compass in a rear view mirror of a 1998 chevrolet tahoe?
I know to hold the compass button down until i have to pick a zone, but I have no clue as to the zone i am in while in miami, FL. then I have to complete 3 circles/// I believe,
Anybody know or have a map ofthe different zones in the US?
thanks

gmcjoe

The owner's manual for my 2000 puts Miami in zone 8. If your mirror is like mine, to set the zone, press and hold the COMP button for three seconds until a zone number appears. Then press the COMP button again to change the zone number. To calibrate, press the COMP button for eight seconds or until the letter "C" is displayed. Then you can drive the vehicle in circles at 5 mph or less, until the display reads a direction or just drive normally until the compass eventually calibrates itself. Hope that helps.

waller25v

I also have a 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD with about 78000 miles on it. The Speedometer sticks on it at times as well. I've noticed that if it sticks and you slam the brakes a few times it'll drop back down to 0 :mad:

04chevy1

I have read a few messages about leveling a 4x4 Chevy Silverado but have not seen any really clear responses. I just bought a very sharp 04&#146; 1500 and want to raise the front end just a little. The dealership said they do in for $299 and that includes a front end alignment. Should I be aware of anything and does this seem like the best way to go? Thanks for your help

noobie1

Tell your dealer to take a hike. The price they quoted is proof positive they have contempt for their customers.

You'll need an 18mm socket, 1/2 inch drive, with a long breaker bar or torque wrench. Being sure the truck is on flat, level ground, measure the front height. It doesn't really matter where you measure as long as your consistent. Forward frame is best. At the aft end of each torsion bar you'll find an adjusting bolt. Turn clockwise to raise the truck, same amount both sides. Experiment to find the height you want. Try 1 1/2 turns to start. When you get it where you want it drive the truck over a dippy road and re-measure on the same flat, level ground and adjust if necessary. When your satisfied take it to an independent front-end shop and have it re-aligned. 50 bucks!

-David

psyco1029

How do I remove the head rests to install seat covers?

noobie1

Raise the Head Restraints to their top position. The support rods of each restraint pass through small plastic bezels in contact with the seat back. Through one side of each bezel you'll see a small hole. Pushing a drill, nail or other devise into the hole depresses a spring loaded release pin allowing the restraints to be lifted out.

-David

psyco1029

Thanks David, seat covers NOW fit like a glove. psyco1029

engraphic

My son's 2002 Silverado 1500 has developed a "shudder" that seems to last about 1 1/2 seconds and has about 1 1/2 seconds between each "shake". We can feel it body wide. We had wheels balanced and the problem was not really noticeable in the steering wheel anyhow. It happens at any speed and is most noticeable at higher speeds. This is an automatic, 4.8L V8. Tires were new last October and were fine for several months.

junior8

Hey, I was wondering if someone might know what is wrong with my 99' Silverado 1500 Z71. Right when I start my truck and try to accelerate it chugs on me. The RPMs go up but my speed wont. This only happens when I first start my truck. It doesnt happen after its been running for a little while. Ive tried givin it some gas and lettin it warm up a little but the problem still persists. If someone could help me it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jonathan

kesh

I had this happen in the past, drive train was slightly bent. I kept taking it in ate 3 tranys before they found the problem with the drive train. Might cost you 50-100 bucks to test, but better that than tranys and other stuff

kesh

I would take it in and have it tested, usually 70bucks at a dealer. Ive had those systems for compression,spark plugs,and catylitic converter. Most likely the cat but its easier less frustraighting and cheaper than part swaping like my hubby does.

kesh

88-89 Chevy Silverado 2500 Electric Climate Controle
Ok my climate control would flicker and some times get stuck on ac for some times now. I have been looking to replace it but its no longer available and can't fine after market. Well today on my way back from picking up some synth freon since it only lasts a year here in the desert the whole thing died. No power or light or even the vent blowing. I beat on the dand thing. I can't go through 100+ weather with no cool. Only one window cracks open. My 78 Seira clasic ac pump was dead when I drove it here. But, hey! That was back before Desert Storm and I could walk on water. I can't take the heat no more. I would throw an old one it but hey this model is square just like the radio. Man I miss my 78 Sierra Classic, That thing was a beast and only had to mess with easy old stuff,no electronics up the wazoo and more room to dive in.

So if anyone knows where I can get this climate controle please let me know. blackmoonrising at cox dot net

islassoc

I have a 2005 2500HD that had a high pitch whine in first gear (auto trans with 6.0 ltr v8) at 6000 miles. Dealer, on orders from Chevy, rebuit the entire transmission with new parts. Worked good for 2000 miles and now the noise is back and louder. Now Chevy area rep wantst to rebuid again (but with no guarantee that it will not come back and extend the power train warranty to 6 yrs and 72,000 miles. I am not willing to accept that solution and have written Chevy Division for resolution. My 2002 had lifter problems from day one and they gave me a 100,000 miles rather than fix it. It does not take a rocket scientist to figure out that in each case I am the one loosing out here when I try to trade or sell the vehicle. The noise with the transmission is so loud that people standing in their yards turn and look at me as I ride through the neighborhood. In each case the original statement was "well this is normal for Chevy trucks." I gues the Rock is permantly broken. Will keep you updated on the case progress and would appreciate any other persons with similar transmission problems to contact me.
Thanks

p100

At this point request that a BRAND NEW transmission be installed in your truck. No arguments. They had a chance to fix it and they failed by taking a cheap route (rebuilding the existing transmission).

Your situation reminds me of the problems I had with my boat equipped with a Volvo Penta SX outdrive (marine transmission equivalent) It developed a really annoying rattling noise at about 15 hours. When the engine was running, it sounded like somebody was shaking a bucket of bolts.

They changed all the bearings in the upper gear case and reshimmed the gears. The noise went away for about 10 hours and came back with a vengeance. More bearings and shims replaced, again the noise returned a short time later. I requested that they install a new complete upper gearcase at this point. They refused. Finally, I had enough. I wrote a letter to the CEO of the company, complaining about how my boat spent more time in service than on water and nothing was getting accomplished. They decided to replace the entire outdrive(upper and lower gearcase). After the new outdrive was installed, no more noise or other problems. It has been fine for 9 years.

The mechanic who worked on my outdrive suspected that the internal upper gearbox bore was not machined correctly and that no matter how carefully they rebuilt the gearbox, the noise would return.

You could have a similar problem with your transmission. The transmission case could be somehow defective and no amount of rebuilding will solve the problem. A new transmission probably will.

Note: If they refuse to give you a new transmission, I suggest contacting a good lawyer and take it from there.

outbrakeridah

Okay I'm thinking its my faulty 4wd switch but I just want to confirm. Anybody have access that can let me know what the code is. Thanks.

n4cer340

I have a 2003 Silverado with a 6.6 Duramax diesel. About a week ago my blower motor control would not work. You can toggle it up or down but the motor will not speed up or down. Only if you go over a rough road then maybe the motor will change speed. Now tonight when I shut off the truck the motor would not turn off so we literally had to remove the fuse to stop the motor. Anyone else had this problem before I take it to the dealer and pay big bucks. Thanks.......

kwbrown

I am seeking some help. I live in Jamaica and took my 2000 silverado to the dealer for regular service as it was due. I notice about a month later the check engine light came on I took it back and after about a next 50 miles it came back. I took it back and was told it was my Knock Sensor, had new one installed, however the service light still come back, the computer at the dealer show it is the knock sensor. I change my gas and even added octane boost and injector cleaner as the dealer reccomended but I am still having the same problem, can some one help me.

p100

Most likely you have a defective fan speed switch.

matman

Here's wierd one. Got an '03 Silverado Extended Cab and I put a Bug Deflector out on the front of the hood. Now, when I get up to 45-50 MPH, I can hear a cracking sound coming from the area of the passesger side windshield, up at the top. When I slow down it goes away. Speed up, it's back again. Now I know that by adding the deflector I have changed the course of the wind coming up over the hood and going up over the cab, but there is nothing that can be catching the wind and flapping or anything that could be causing this cracking. Now to add to the mystery...my brother has an '02 Silverado...almost exactly the same the truck, and the same thing happened to him when he put the bug deflector on....cracking noise, and in the same area. NOw for even more mystery....have a nephew who has a GMC Sierra and his is an '03....pretty much the same truck, right? Same thing happened to him and he had the dealer take his windshield out and re-seal it. Guess what? The noise did NOT go away! Anybody out there run into this before. At first I thought the antenna might be vibrating orloose or something....I also have checked the molding around the windshield to see if it is loose.....like I said.....wierd.

p100

If you buy a GM bug deflector, page 2 of instruction says to apply the eclosed 3M double sided tape to the side windshield pillar moulding to prevent the noise just as you described. Apparently, the wind causes a rattle in these pporly secured side mouldings.

buddyglee

My 04 Silverado Speedo would stick also, conveniently at 37000 miles. They replced the dash cluster. (ext warrenty)

jjjjr

I was idling through a parking lot when the oil and temp gauges seemed to fluctuate somewhat erraticaly, before just the oil gauge dropped to zero. I immediately stopped the motor. After adding two quarts (it was just below full three days ago), I started it up and saw no movement of the oil gauge, heard clattering, and immediately shut it down again. I didn't hear any clattering until just before stopping it the first time, and after running it for another 3 seconds upon starting it again (after adding oil)

1)How much damage is most likely to have been done?
2)How hard is it to replace the oil pump?
Any help would be very much appreciated.

raleighfire

'00 5.3 with 55,000 miles and the erratic fuel gauge. I was told that there may be a TSB on this problem. How can I find out if there is a TSB on the ground problem with this fuel gauge? Has anyone received any dealer help with this problem?

trucker71

trans slips or shutters when it should be down shifting.

sometime when excelerating up hills

27north

I have a 2003 Silverado with 42K miles on it. When cruising anywhere from 40 to 60mph I am hearing a high pitch squeal coming from the front end. I can't pin point the sound because it only appears when I'm on the highway. The sound is very consistent and becoming an annoyance. Any ideas on what I should check? Thanks for any help.

ryanbab

sure its not from the rear or directly under the cab? Could be a U-Joint

socaljoe

It could be coming from the rear, have the rear differential checked out

p100

Typically, defective rear differentials will whine in certain speed range, typically between 45-50 MPH in top gear. The whine can be heard under load or only during coasting. Most of the time, whis whining is caused by escessive backlash setting (play between gear teeth).

He could have a defective bearing on one of the idler pulleys, water pump , or the alternator. Recommend removing the serpentine belt and runnning the engine with the truck in park for several seconds, including higher RPMs to see if the noise disappears.

27north

Thanks for the help, the noise is clearly coming from the front end. I will try to find a defective bearing as p100 suggested.

tubby

To help some of yall the throttle body gets dirty and I think due to the pvc that enters the intake close to the throttle body. You can get a can of throttle body cleaner from any auto parts store and in about 5 min clean the butterfly assy. but you might have to do it every now and then. I have 157000mi on mine and have done it 4-5 times.

tubby

I hope this helps, if it is your front wheel bearing it will not help trying to find it. GM went to a hub cassette about 6-7 years ago on the 2wd vehicles. It is all in one assembly. My work neighbor tried to replace the inner and outer bearings on his 99 but it has the 00 front end and the cassette.

If you have the hub cassette it is a bit pricy but easy to repair. good luck

n4cer340

Just got it back from the dealer - it was a defective heater control module $ 130.00. The service rep said it may have been caused by boosting another vehicle causing a spike in voltage when the other vehicle finally started. Not sure if I believe it but, it works now.

FYI:::::

p100

My '06 Crew cab Z71 with the 5.3 engine has a faint but distinct whine coming from somewhere in the engine compartment when the RPMs are about 1200 and above. It is not there when the engine is idling. The whine is engine RPM related - it occurs when the truck is idling in park or neutral, both with cold and hot engine. The noise is not loud, but nevertheless it is there. Is this normal? Anybody else has encountered anything similar? I am going to check a few things, so far I have not been able to pinpoint the source. It could be the A/C compressor pulley bearing, alternator bearing, idler or belt tensioner bearing, or the water pump/power steering pump bearing. Or transmission oil pump/converter?

rickar

I'm having the exact same problem with my 2000 Silverado 2500. Does anyone have any clue what might be causing this?

geo9

P..........My 04 6.0 does the same thing so does
my buds 04 1500 5.3 !
Nature of the beast from what I read on the GM
truck forums..................

p100

A GM tech told me that 2500 series 4L80 transmission has a whine in the first gear which is supposedly normal. But no such whine for the 4L60 series which I have. Anyway, I am just trying to understand this noise and where it is coming from. My biggest worry is that it may get louder and result in failure of some component or a bearing and leave me stranded.