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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions

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  • ndfanndfan Posts: 3
    I recently purchased a new 2006 V-6, manual transmission, Silverado (Work Truck model). Ever since buying it, I have had trouble shifting from neutral into 1st gear as well as shifting into reverse. The dealer told me the tranny would "loosen-up", but it still hasn't. So, I am wondering if anybody else has had a similar problem? And, if so, are there any solutions you could recommend?

    PS: I have also noticed my truck's suspension sags lower on one side (like many others posted here), and would also appreciate any advice/opinions regarding this!

    Thanks in advance for any help!!!
  • arivacaarivaca Posts: 1
    At random the horn on my 05 2500hd continues to blow (instead of a beep) I tap horn button and the horn quits. Are the horn relays easy to find? a column bug? ??? :confuse:
  • so yesterday i drive to a store 5 min away im there for about 45 min then i come back to my truck. i turn the key and it starts cranking but then doesnt catch..instead it continuously makes a thud noise..finally i got it going but it wasnt idleing correct..it was very rough and jumpy. and was about to stall..so i stayed on the gas a little in park and i let go it didnt stall so i left and when i push on the gas it does the whole putt putting thing and then finaly gets going.. and then when it switches to the next gear it will start putting at the begining again...please help!! ohh also when it turned over it made a sharp squelching noise
  • estakaestaka Posts: 11
    How do I calibrate a compass in a rear view mirror of a 1998 chevrolet tahoe?
    I know to hold the compass button down until i have to pick a zone, but I have no clue as to the zone i am in while in miami, FL. then I have to complete 3 circles/// I believe,
    Anybody know or have a map ofthe different zones in the US?
    thanks
  • gmcjoegmcjoe Posts: 11
    The owner's manual for my 2000 puts Miami in zone 8. If your mirror is like mine, to set the zone, press and hold the COMP button for three seconds until a zone number appears. Then press the COMP button again to change the zone number. To calibrate, press the COMP button for eight seconds or until the letter "C" is displayed. Then you can drive the vehicle in circles at 5 mph or less, until the display reads a direction or just drive normally until the compass eventually calibrates itself. Hope that helps.
  • waller25vwaller25v Posts: 1
    I also have a 2003 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD with about 78000 miles on it. The Speedometer sticks on it at times as well. I've noticed that if it sticks and you slam the brakes a few times it'll drop back down to 0 :mad:
  • 04chevy104chevy1 Posts: 1
    I have read a few messages about leveling a 4x4 Chevy Silverado but have not seen any really clear responses. I just bought a very sharp 04’ 1500 and want to raise the front end just a little. The dealership said they do in for $299 and that includes a front end alignment. Should I be aware of anything and does this seem like the best way to go? Thanks for your help
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    Tell your dealer to take a hike. The price they quoted is proof positive they have contempt for their customers.

    You'll need an 18mm socket, 1/2 inch drive, with a long breaker bar or torque wrench. Being sure the truck is on flat, level ground, measure the front height. It doesn't really matter where you measure as long as your consistent. Forward frame is best. At the aft end of each torsion bar you'll find an adjusting bolt. Turn clockwise to raise the truck, same amount both sides. Experiment to find the height you want. Try 1 1/2 turns to start. When you get it where you want it drive the truck over a dippy road and re-measure on the same flat, level ground and adjust if necessary. When your satisfied take it to an independent front-end shop and have it re-aligned. 50 bucks!

    -David
  • psyco1029psyco1029 Posts: 2
    How do I remove the head rests to install seat covers?
  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    Raise the Head Restraints to their top position. The support rods of each restraint pass through small plastic bezels in contact with the seat back. Through one side of each bezel you'll see a small hole. Pushing a drill, nail or other devise into the hole depresses a spring loaded release pin allowing the restraints to be lifted out.

    -David
  • psyco1029psyco1029 Posts: 2
    Thanks David, seat covers NOW fit like a glove. psyco1029
  • engraphicengraphic Posts: 4
    My son's 2002 Silverado 1500 has developed a "shudder" that seems to last about 1 1/2 seconds and has about 1 1/2 seconds between each "shake". We can feel it body wide. We had wheels balanced and the problem was not really noticeable in the steering wheel anyhow. It happens at any speed and is most noticeable at higher speeds. This is an automatic, 4.8L V8. Tires were new last October and were fine for several months.
  • junior8junior8 Posts: 1
    Hey, I was wondering if someone might know what is wrong with my 99' Silverado 1500 Z71. Right when I start my truck and try to accelerate it chugs on me. The RPMs go up but my speed wont. This only happens when I first start my truck. It doesnt happen after its been running for a little while. Ive tried givin it some gas and lettin it warm up a little but the problem still persists. If someone could help me it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jonathan
  • keshkesh Posts: 4
    I had this happen in the past, drive train was slightly bent. I kept taking it in ate 3 tranys before they found the problem with the drive train. Might cost you 50-100 bucks to test, but better that than tranys and other stuff
  • keshkesh Posts: 4
    I would take it in and have it tested, usually 70bucks at a dealer. Ive had those systems for compression,spark plugs,and catylitic converter. Most likely the cat but its easier less frustraighting and cheaper than part swaping like my hubby does.
  • keshkesh Posts: 4
    88-89 Chevy Silverado 2500 Electric Climate Controle
    Ok my climate control would flicker and some times get stuck on ac for some times now. I have been looking to replace it but its no longer available and can't fine after market. Well today on my way back from picking up some synth freon since it only lasts a year here in the desert the whole thing died. No power or light or even the vent blowing. I beat on the dand thing. I can't go through 100+ weather with no cool. Only one window cracks open. My 78 Seira clasic ac pump was dead when I drove it here. But, hey! That was back before Desert Storm and I could walk on water. I can't take the heat no more. I would throw an old one it but hey this model is square just like the radio. Man I miss my 78 Sierra Classic, That thing was a beast and only had to mess with easy old stuff,no electronics up the wazoo and more room to dive in.

    So if anyone knows where I can get this climate controle please let me know. blackmoonrising at cox dot net
  • islassocislassoc Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 2500HD that had a high pitch whine in first gear (auto trans with 6.0 ltr v8) at 6000 miles. Dealer, on orders from Chevy, rebuit the entire transmission with new parts. Worked good for 2000 miles and now the noise is back and louder. Now Chevy area rep wantst to rebuid again (but with no guarantee that it will not come back and extend the power train warranty to 6 yrs and 72,000 miles. I am not willing to accept that solution and have written Chevy Division for resolution. My 2002 had lifter problems from day one and they gave me a 100,000 miles rather than fix it. It does not take a rocket scientist to figure out that in each case I am the one loosing out here when I try to trade or sell the vehicle. The noise with the transmission is so loud that people standing in their yards turn and look at me as I ride through the neighborhood. In each case the original statement was "well this is normal for Chevy trucks." I gues the Rock is permantly broken. Will keep you updated on the case progress and would appreciate any other persons with similar transmission problems to contact me.
    Thanks
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    At this point request that a BRAND NEW transmission be installed in your truck. No arguments. They had a chance to fix it and they failed by taking a cheap route (rebuilding the existing transmission).

    Your situation reminds me of the problems I had with my boat equipped with a Volvo Penta SX outdrive (marine transmission equivalent) It developed a really annoying rattling noise at about 15 hours. When the engine was running, it sounded like somebody was shaking a bucket of bolts.

    They changed all the bearings in the upper gear case and reshimmed the gears. The noise went away for about 10 hours and came back with a vengeance. More bearings and shims replaced, again the noise returned a short time later. I requested that they install a new complete upper gearcase at this point. They refused. Finally, I had enough. I wrote a letter to the CEO of the company, complaining about how my boat spent more time in service than on water and nothing was getting accomplished. They decided to replace the entire outdrive(upper and lower gearcase). After the new outdrive was installed, no more noise or other problems. It has been fine for 9 years.

    The mechanic who worked on my outdrive suspected that the internal upper gearbox bore was not machined correctly and that no matter how carefully they rebuilt the gearbox, the noise would return.

    You could have a similar problem with your transmission. The transmission case could be somehow defective and no amount of rebuilding will solve the problem. A new transmission probably will.

    Note: If they refuse to give you a new transmission, I suggest contacting a good lawyer and take it from there.
  • Okay I'm thinking its my faulty 4wd switch but I just want to confirm. Anybody have access that can let me know what the code is. Thanks.
  • n4cer340n4cer340 Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Silverado with a 6.6 Duramax diesel. About a week ago my blower motor control would not work. You can toggle it up or down but the motor will not speed up or down. Only if you go over a rough road then maybe the motor will change speed. Now tonight when I shut off the truck the motor would not turn off so we literally had to remove the fuse to stop the motor. Anyone else had this problem before I take it to the dealer and pay big bucks. Thanks.......
  • kwbrownkwbrown Posts: 6
    I am seeking some help. I live in Jamaica and took my 2000 silverado to the dealer for regular service as it was due. I notice about a month later the check engine light came on I took it back and after about a next 50 miles it came back. I took it back and was told it was my Knock Sensor, had new one installed, however the service light still come back, the computer at the dealer show it is the knock sensor. I change my gas and even added octane boost and injector cleaner as the dealer reccomended but I am still having the same problem, can some one help me.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Most likely you have a defective fan speed switch.
  • matmanmatman Posts: 1
    Here's wierd one. Got an '03 Silverado Extended Cab and I put a Bug Deflector out on the front of the hood. Now, when I get up to 45-50 MPH, I can hear a cracking sound coming from the area of the passesger side windshield, up at the top. When I slow down it goes away. Speed up, it's back again. Now I know that by adding the deflector I have changed the course of the wind coming up over the hood and going up over the cab, but there is nothing that can be catching the wind and flapping or anything that could be causing this cracking. Now to add to the mystery...my brother has an '02 Silverado...almost exactly the same the truck, and the same thing happened to him when he put the bug deflector on....cracking noise, and in the same area. NOw for even more mystery....have a nephew who has a GMC Sierra and his is an '03....pretty much the same truck, right? Same thing happened to him and he had the dealer take his windshield out and re-seal it. Guess what? The noise did NOT go away! Anybody out there run into this before. At first I thought the antenna might be vibrating orloose or something....I also have checked the molding around the windshield to see if it is loose.....like I said.....wierd.
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    If you buy a GM bug deflector, page 2 of instruction says to apply the eclosed 3M double sided tape to the side windshield pillar moulding to prevent the noise just as you described. Apparently, the wind causes a rattle in these pporly secured side mouldings.
  • buddygleebuddyglee Posts: 44
    My 04 Silverado Speedo would stick also, conveniently at 37000 miles. They replced the dash cluster. (ext warrenty)
  • jjjjrjjjjr Posts: 2
    I was idling through a parking lot when the oil and temp gauges seemed to fluctuate somewhat erraticaly, before just the oil gauge dropped to zero. I immediately stopped the motor. After adding two quarts (it was just below full three days ago), I started it up and saw no movement of the oil gauge, heard clattering, and immediately shut it down again. I didn't hear any clattering until just before stopping it the first time, and after running it for another 3 seconds upon starting it again (after adding oil)

    1)How much damage is most likely to have been done?
    2)How hard is it to replace the oil pump?
    Any help would be very much appreciated.
  • '00 5.3 with 55,000 miles and the erratic fuel gauge. I was told that there may be a TSB on this problem. How can I find out if there is a TSB on the ground problem with this fuel gauge? Has anyone received any dealer help with this problem?
  • trucker71trucker71 Posts: 1
    trans slips or shutters when it should be down shifting.

    sometime when excelerating up hills
  • 27north27north Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 Silverado with 42K miles on it. When cruising anywhere from 40 to 60mph I am hearing a high pitch squeal coming from the front end. I can't pin point the sound because it only appears when I'm on the highway. The sound is very consistent and becoming an annoyance. Any ideas on what I should check? Thanks for any help.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    sure its not from the rear or directly under the cab? Could be a U-Joint
This discussion has been closed.