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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions



  • Thanks for the responce! I will take a look at the mirror connector, I'm also wondering if the mirror wiring harness goes near the wiper arms and is being jostled. Or maybe share a ground return with the wiper motors that is loose.

    on the major problem I did find out that the fuel pump was on its way out, it failed completely and left me stranded on the road. I got that replaced but I am still experiencing the inconsistant idle when switching gears. so I am betting that one if the engine sensors is out of commission intermittantly. I just don't know how to figure out which one it is.


  • mitchmmitchm Posts: 1
    my 98 silverado with 190000 miles after a few other problems starting blowing a whole bunch of black smoke, and running really rough. Thought maybe a head gasket, with that many miles I just decided to put in a new long block. I noticed when taking the old one out, there was alot of oil residue in the intake manifold, now with the new block in it is still running exactly the same. Any ideas? I checked the PCV valve and the oxygen sensor
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Sounds like a clogged or bad EGR valve and/or a
    new PCV valve
  • hartleadmhartleadm Posts: 1
    I have a serious problem

    Ok, well my heat and Ac works good temperature wise, my vent is on defrost and wont go to floor or vents, i checked the control box its ok, i checked the actuator up inside the dash passenger side, you have to dam near take the whole dash off to see it its way up there crappy location! its works and moves, now when i got this truck is had been trough alot of mud I coul dtell, is it possible its something underneath the truck thats causing this to default? THANKS GUYS!
  • dcarter3dcarter3 Posts: 3
    My AC is cold but not blowing out of the vents as it should be. Blower motor was recently replaced and working. I had it checked and was told the doors to the vents was open and could be a switch ??? under the dash that could be replaced without taking the dash off. What is the part they are talking about and could it be something else ? The control panel appears to be okay.
  • chevyfoolchevyfool Posts: 7
    Here's a probable solution to your dilemma with the blower. Check your owners manual first and get oriented. You have an interior cab filter under the dash on the passenger side. They get plugged up pretty fast if your off the asphalt much. They get plugged up anyway! Your blower is probably just fine but it can't push air that it does not have. When you install them make sure that they are in correctly. The filter should have an arrow showing air flow. Good luck. This is a much less expensive solution.
  • dcarter3dcarter3 Posts: 3
    Thanks .. Chevyfool.. I looked in my manual , but did not see a reference for a cab filter. Would it be beside the blower motor housing or on top under the dash. I don't recall it ever being replaced.
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Remember 03 and up have NO filter!!!!!!!!!!

    For pics and tips on 99-02s:
  • dcarter3dcarter3 Posts: 3
    Mine is a 1997 1500 , 5.7. I was told there is not a cabin filter on a 97. Mechanic said a switch under the middle of dash controls the doors for air flow thru vent. Blower motor, compressor etc new. I was trying to make sure it could not be something else . Thanks for replies.
  • I have a 1996 z71 extended cab. I made a mistake and took all of the plug wires off of it. I have no idea how to put them back on right. HELP! :sick:
  • mbsimondsmbsimonds Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 4.3L v6 silverado 4x4 w/93,000 miles.

    When it is even slightly cool or wet outside it doesn't want to start. It turns over and after about 10 minutes of cranking it, it finally starts. I also noticed a whining sound when cranking it. :confuse:

    Once its running, there is hesitation for the first 5 minutes of driving. I had the hesitation problem before the not wanting to start problem began.

    If it has been running and is shut off, it will start right back up no problem.

    I have changed the plugs,wires,rotor, and cap. I have also changed the fuel filter.

    Anyone that might have any ideas as to the problem or if you have experienced the same thing, please let me know.
  • matman98matman98 Posts: 3
    Had same problem and have found the solution!!!! The two strips of rubber that go up the sides of the windshield are what the problem is. Glue them down to the windshield with a rubber cement or equivilent adhesive and the problem will go away.

    Good Luck....
    Doug ;)
  • chrisarachrisara Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 4.8 and the truck idles so low that it stalls. When I give it gas its fine. No codes cleaned the MAF sensor. could it be a vacuum leak or an EGR valve?
  • wiffetwiffet Posts: 3
    ...Hi folks.Havent seen or heard of this anywhere yet-neither has the dealer.I have a 2005 Silverado 2WD long bed.I purchased it July, March of this year I started hearing a 'creaking/groaning'of metal noise coming from behind and below driver seat every time brakes were applied.It got progressively louder to the point of absolute frustration as I could not find a source.Finally took it to dealer,and they found that it was the crossbar under the cab towards the rear of it.They took it off,slopped on grease,and reinstalled.Said they had not heard of this yet and there was no bulletins on it.It stayed quiet for a month ,then started again.I called them again,and they were no help,saying bring it in-we'll do it again.I cant keep doing this every month.then it hit me that its all metal to metal-perhaps a "rubber gasket"???....I took some old bike tire inner tube,cut some strips,and reintslled between crossbar and the frame(this crossbar runs frome the left steel frame to the right-just bolted in-seems to serve NO purpouse)...well-it didnt help a bit-still greaks and groans......LOUD...would it be safe to remove this crossbar???-or do I have to wait for a recall-if it ever comes???....any input appreciated-I'm gettin' really ticked off.
  • davey69davey69 Posts: 2
    I am experiencing the exact same problem.I have a Silverado 2WD longbed I purchased in April 2005. I have had it into the dealership twice for "creaking when brakes applied" and then a squeek that gets progressively louder.It is driving me CRAZY and they have yet to correct the problem.I am taking it back to have the temporary fix and see if they may have any solution.Any additional input would be great and I will post if I learn anything else about this.
  • I'd just like to report that I've had my 2005 Silverado for exactly a year, have 11,000 miles on it, half of those miles towing 4000-6000lbs, and have had NO problems with it. No weird noises, nothing:)

    Half ton, LS, 5.3, extended cab.

    And I got 21mpg on the hwy doing 65mph on my last road trip (empty truck, not towing of course).
  • wiffetwiffet Posts: 3
    ....well-I would guess that the reason you dont hear what we are experiencing is because you dont have the model WE do...did you read the description.?
  • Yes, I read the description. My post was just to make a point that many/most of us have not had any problems. If I were visiting this forum as an outsider, I would think that Chevys are falling apart. But since this is where people come to about problems, well, just wanted to keep it in perspective.

    Glad I didn't buy a long bed:)
  • just recently bought the truck. it has a rough idle all the time even when it is gear. but when you are driving it seems to smooth out. had it put on a computer and everthing seems to check out all right. just wondering if anyone has had any problems like this. i'm thinking maybe a vacuum leak somewhere but i can't seem to trace it down. any help would be appreciated. thanks
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Posts: 588
    Very good point sailboatguy. Lots of times people will read trouble posts and just assume that the problem in question is common for the vehicle line. For the record, my 2004 didn't have the problems listed either. The only problem I had with mine was a gurgling under the dash when the truck was cold that went away as it warmed up. Turned out to be a little air in the coolant system. Burping it took care of that issue.

    The only other time it needed to visit the dealership other than routine maintenance was to replace the tailgate cables. Overall a very pleasing ownership experience.

    BTW, nice mileage results! My best was 21.7, but my routine mileage averaged in the 19s. :P
  • rhwebbrhwebb Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 with the 4.8L V8. It has 70K miles on it and runs great. Lately I have been experiencing a stall feeling from a complete stop to acceleration. Once I get going its fine, no problems with acceleration while driving. It only happens when I am at a complete stop and then accelerate to proceed. I thought it could be my fuel injectors so I got a cleaning additive and yet it still does it. I have very very little knowledge about the mechanical side of vehicles. Could this problem be from the fuel filter or could my fuel injectors be clogged for some reason.
  • bbuonobbuono Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 CK 1500 Z71. I have severe pulsing on the front end as I apply brakes - moderate, heavy weight, or above 30. I can really feel the brake pedal modulate. I had it to the Chevy dealer last month (I have 70K miles). He said front end is fine - replaced pads and did minor turn of discs. It has gotten Much worse - shake and shimmy time. This is second brake job in last 3 years. Is dealer off base and poor job or other ideas on cause?
  • kwbrownkwbrown Posts: 6
    I think your Disc Wheels definately need changing. Also it would be good if you could also Balance the wheels when you change your Disc Wheels. I had the same problem and this is what I did and the problem went away.
  • stellgarstellgar Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Silverado that always goes into air-conditioning mode when using the recirculate function even when the recirculating button is only button selected. Not a big deal but if anyone knows of a fix I would appreciate hearing of it.
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    STEL..........Note the A/C compressor will always kick on
    when defrost or recirc. mode is selected to dehumidify the air.
    If thats your issue.............
    My 04 and 01 did the same thing.
  • rperraultrperrault Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Silverado with 20K miles. When going about 25 mph and hitting a bump in the road, I hear a clicking noise (metal on metal contact). However, when I compress the brakes, the noise goes away. The dealership has been no help at all. Anyone know what this is? Thanks
  • stellgarstellgar Posts: 3
    So if I understand you right then the recirculating air action will always be air-conditioned and cold no matter which vent combination is used or. I have two other vehicles that seem to only use recirculating and air-conditoning when both are selected in tandem.

    geo9.... thanks for the fast response
  • geo9geo9 Posts: 739
    Yes the air flow will be cold if the temp. selector is
    set to cold. If you slide it to hot it will be hot air
    coming out of the vents.
    The AC comp. should only kick in if the fan is on (but
    I should recheck my operation just in case).
    Otherwise air will always blow out of the vents if truck
    is moving. With these GM HVAC systems you can never
    really shut the air flow off.
    Remember the old GM "astro ventilation" from the late 60s
    early 70s? Always fresh air flowing thru the vehicle.
  • stellgarstellgar Posts: 3
    Just to make sure we are connecting on the same points. when you refere to cold air. that is to mean air-conditioner is on and that will remain so whether or not the air-conditioner button is pushed while using the recirculating feature.

    The reason this seams odd to me is because there are times when I find myself in a lot of dust or just bad air (black diesel fumes in front) and in my delta I just switch to recirculating and wait it out. No air-conditioned cold air involved unless I choose it.

    Any Way thanks for the help.
  • clubtenclubten Posts: 2
    I have a 2003 with the 5.3. I just had some body work done and when I picked it up the battery was dead and it idled so low the AC would quit and it would almost die. When letting off the gas to come to a stop or make a turn it drops to around 300 rpm and almost dies. When at speed it runs great. I have read many posts and it appears to be a MAF sensor or idle speed control. Any help would be appreciated.
This discussion has been closed.