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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions



  • tomsred52tomsred52 Posts: 1
    1996 Chevy Silverado whose cruise controls keeps dropping out and truck has to be turned off to restart the cruise. Help.
  • OK, first time posting to this site...looks like most trucks are way mare new than mine, but I hope some one can help.

    Bought an '85 Chevrolet K10 4x4 5.0 a couple of months ago. Just had a bunch of work done on it. I was having some issues with the engine idle being a little high...if I put it in park and reved it, it would go back down. The gas pedal was also pretty hard to push. My mechanic said it was because of the wrong after market carburetor getting in the way of the throttle cable. Well, I had a nice rebuilt carb put on the gas pedal is better, but the idle is still doing the same thing. It doesn't happen all the time but its a pain in the butt when it does. It makes the drive shaft bang when its put in gear too.

    I figured something just needs some WD40 or something. Can anyone help? I haven't really taken a look under the hood for myself yet to try to fix it.

  • wiffetwiffet Posts: 3
    ...THANK YOU SIR...!!!!!!!!!!....just saw this(I pretty much gave up with the "I'm happy" posts...hehehe)I will call dealer Monday and see what they do-will keep you posted...
  • gmctruckgmctruck Posts: 186
    Your fast idle problem was common for that era of engines. If it only does it when the engine is cold, then it's normal because the choke is on until the engine warms up. If it does it even after the truck has been driven for a while, then it's something else unless the choke is stuck. I had that problem on my '77 GMC truck way back when and I finally disabled the automatic choke and installed a manual choke cable which solved the problem.

    When you install a rebuilt carb, some parts are taken from the old carb and installed on the rebuilt one, so that explains why you still have the same problem with the rebuilt carb. There is an idle solenoid that can be adjusted. I'm not sure what year they switched over to the computer controlled electric carb though. Sounds like your mechanic just needs to adjust the carb and make sure all carb components are functioning correctly. Since engines have been switched over to fuel injection for so long, it's getting harder to find mechanics that know how to work on and properly adjust carbs any more.
  • Thanks for the reply! I'll pay attention next time I run it to see if it still does in when warm. However, even when its cold, if I quickly rev the engine, it will resume a normal idle. That's what really led me to believe it was just sticking. It does have the electronic choke.
  • Same problem here, guys. Just bought an 01 silverado w/ 5.3L, 66,000 miles. Runs very smooth, but at stops, the tach goes to around 300 w/ac on, and headlights dim at night. Idle's so low it wants to stall, then surges & nearly floods when i give it gas. Seems like a bad alternator would show up at startup, and i would think a vacuum leak would cause rough idle--none here. I agree w/clubten at this point: possibly MAF or EGR. I assume there's no simple idle speed adjustment, & wonder if a performance chip would solve this problem? Also, could a bad ground be responsible? Sorry, no answers, just more questions.Please let me know if you hear anything. P.S. lists a technical service bulletin (TSB #040604040) to address idle instability, low or rough idle w/electronic throttle control, but this is all i can find, no details.
  • balichbalich Posts: 62
    My stereo now has no sound .. it appears fine (display, etc) but no sound .. it's been like this for 3 days.

    It happened before but the sound came back the next day.

    Same thing happens to my friends '03 truck as well.

    What is the fix ?

    I am out of warranty .. is this a defect - if so will it
    be covered by GM ?

    Has this happened to you and how did you resolve ?

  • hey i got the same model of truck i just bought and it has a rough idle but when you are driving down the road it seems to smooth out. i had it checked out and i have a bad injector on #5 cyclinder. this might be something to check out.
  • Truck has 130k miles. I have had overheating problems for several weeks now. Temps have been in the upper 90's and doesn't help. Truck temp has gotten as high as 260 but hasn't boiled over once. The problem gets worse on the interstate or at idle. At slow speeds it doesn't overheat or if outside temps are below 85. I started by draining the antifreeze( the fluid that came out was as clean as new), I flushed it anyway to make sure core wasn't stopped up, didn't work, then replaced fan clutch w/ extreme duty rating, didn't work, replaced thermostat w/190, then water pump, then coolant temp sensor for good measure. Nothing has worked. I'm not loosing any fluid, my spark plugs look good,( not lean or discolored)truck runs good. My hoses are good and lower one doesn't collapse under pressure.
    Please help.
  • ok any of you ever hear of this? I,m going down the road about 80 mph in my 95 silverado and it dropped out of overdrive so I pulled over checked out didnt find anything obvious so I pulled out and discovered I also didnt have 1st gear. so c
    coming home sometimes I had 1st gear and sometimes overdrive.
    so I,m confused is this a servo problem or something worse?
    any help would appreciated
  • pstonepstone Posts: 2
    I don't know why but I had never thought of that. that does make sense. thanks I'll look into it.
  • gmctruckgmctruck Posts: 186
    "I flushed it anyway to make sure core wasn't stopped up"

    Does that mean you flushed out the heater core itself? Just draining the fluid will not flush out debris build up inside the heater core or cooling system. One thing you have not checked is your temp gauge. If you research various GM truck forums, you will see that there have been many problems reported of malfunctioning gauges and such. If all else fails, install a separate temporary temp gauge to make sure it matches the instrument cluster gauge readings. Unless you still have a blockage in the engine block or elsewhere in the cooling system, it should not be overheating. Don't trust the temp gauge readings unless you have tested the gauge itself.
  • yes, after draining coolant, I then flushed the system and rechecked fluid for debris but was still as clean as new. Thank you for resonding with your suggestion on the temp gauge, I will try that next.
  • Hopefully somebody can help me out. I have read a few of the messages pertaining to the pass lock system. I have a '99 5.3L Z71. A year ago, the passlock acted up. I had a remote starter installed for a few years and having moved to Florida, I figured it was the problem as it has to bypass the passlock to work, I had it removed and the problem was gone, at least for a year. It acted up several times again and I took it to my local dealer. They said I need to replace the passlock which cost me $260. Fine and dandy until 3 months later it did it again. I took it back and figured the passlock again. This time they said they checked the passlock and it was not the problem, although after having it for 27 hours and only doing 2 hours of diagnosis to it, they said they could not find a problem anywhere, which makes me believe they screwed me good the first time. Is there another problem it could be? It seems weird to me that they supposedly fixed it once, but then with the same exact problems, they couldn't find it. I read the message about using the right resistors to bypass the system, which sounds good, but I'd also like to know what other things could be causing this problem. It doesn't have a pattern. I get in and the truck turns over, then shuts down. The security light comes on intermittently while driving. I wait about 5-10 minutes and it fires back up. Any ideas would be very much appreciated.
  • Thanks for the reply. It will allow me to program around the passlock and hopefully eliminate the problem? A little bit of added performance would be nice too. Is there a particular product to look for at superchips?
  • My 95 Silverado 1500 blower motor has finally stopped after some days working and some days not. Once it came on it would run all day until I turn off the engine. But, when I started it back up there was no air coming from the vents again. Hours later or the next day or two, it would come on again. Until, last week. I've replaced the blower motor (passenger side underneath dash), resistor (behind the glove compartment), and checked ALL fuses left of driver and under the hood, and still the blower motor does not run. A/C comes on but no air from any of the vents on any settings, heat, a/c, defrost, floor, vents, or combination. Anybody out there who has any advice, please help, ITS HOT, I'm listening.

    Single dad of 2 children,
    on a tight budget.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Hi folks

    In an effort to make things a bit easier to research, we're adding more focused discussions for the Silverado/Sierra so that they don't get lost in one general discussion.

    If you click on the main Silverado & Sierra Group, you will see a bunch of new discussions broken down by specific sections of the truck. We'd like you to start posting your problems under those new discussions, and hopefully you can get faster respoinses by those who may be more knowledgeable about those specific areas.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • Who ever has a 1996 chevrolet Cheyenne pick up truck BEWARE!! i just had a new transmission dropped into mine and at a shiny penny!!! the man at the transmission shop said thats once they hiy about 126k the transmission ware out!!! I would strongly recommend that if u have a 1996 go in and have them take a look at it!! Thanks :confuse:
  • dutcheedutchee Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 chevy 3500 dually my power windows have locked up and it is driving me crazy checked for the fuse but there is no box were the fuse is suppose to be checked under the hood fuse not blown there Is there a fuse somewhere i cant find!!
    Plesase anyone i am at my wits end. Ron
  • dutcheedutchee Posts: 4
    i am having the same problem none of my windows will go up.
  • jkruse1jkruse1 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my '98. I slap the dash and it comes back on, hit a bump and it goes back off, then I slap the dash again. It's a temporary solution. Anyone have a more permanent one?
  • gmctruckgmctruck Posts: 186
    You have a loose connection somewhere... all you have to do is find it. Check all wiring and ground connections to the blower motor and fan switch. Slapping the dash and going over bumps simply makes/breaks the loose connection.
  • huff94huff94 Posts: 2
    I know you posted this almost a year ago, but my Silverado is doing the same thing. I've replaced the fuel pump/sending unit, and the filter. Still no luck. I was wondering if you ever figured it out. Thanks
  • I'm trying to remove the governor on my truck. I heard on the 1997 it's a separate module that can be unplugged under the hood, no problem, but I need to know where. I'm in Canada, so it might be a little different, but I don't think so.

  • noobie1noobie1 Posts: 326
    2002 Silverado, X-Cab

    I just spent several hours looking for a rattle behind the dashboard, top/middle. It's very annoying. It sounded like something tapping the underside of the cover, but I drove it with the cover off with no change. In fact, with the cover off it sounds like it's coming from inside or behind the HVAC ducting, yikes. Anyone ever had a solution to this problem, I mean short of cranking up the audio or trading the truck in.

    Like A Rock!

  • vrk0057vrk0057 Posts: 4
    My dad's 1989 Chevrolet Silverado, V6 with 350,000 miles (original engine and transmission, no rebuilds!) has started dying. It has been doing so about a year. We did a tune up with AC Delco parts, replaced the catalytic converter and distributor shaft. About 6 months after all this work, the dying started at speeds of 60 MPH or greater. Now it dies all the time. We let our Chevrolet dealer investigate. They kept it for two days during which they did a compression check, computer check, and fuel system testing, all tests came back fine. When it dies, it acts like someone just turned the key off, no hesitation or warning before it croaks, just the SES light will come on about a second before it quits. If you watch carefully and press the gas pedal, it will still die peacefully. We replaced the ignition coil recently, but that didn't help it still dies. This vehicle is obviously no longer a daily driver, but we would like to make it safe to drive again. Any thoughts out there are greatly appreciated!!!
  • Have you thought about the key switch?? Just a thought....

  • I had a similar problem on an older silverado like that. Believe it or not it was the gas tank. Over the years it was breaking down inside and pieces were clogging the fuel filter and pump. when this happened the whole truck shut down but the electric stayed on as if I turned the key but did not start it. So if your truck is shutting down but the lights on the dash stay on youmay have this problem. If not then I would assume it's electrical. I replaced the gas tank, fuel pump, sending unit and fuel filter. I couldnt even believe fuel was getting to the throttle body by the looks of those parts after I removed them. After this the truck ran fine and still does.
  • dietertdietert Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 ad with a 6.6 diesel. My transfercase started making noise about 2 months ago.I checked my fluid and it was low,so i added fluid but could not find a leak.I then thought maybe the slip yolk seal was bad,having owned a jeep with one i know how the leak,this did not seem to stop the noise.I have 92000 miles on this truck and i went to change the fluid and found it had a burnt smell and it was like paste.Ill probrably have to replace the transcase but im not sure how tough a job it will be or whereto buy one reasonable,any suggs or has anyone had this prob?
This discussion has been closed.