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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions



  • I want to install dual Flowmaster original Mdl 40s with an,"H" pipe on my '96 K1500 w/5.7L.since it already has true dual exhaust to the muffler. I got under the truck with a tape measure to see if they would fit. They might fit if the mufflers were mounted side-by-side vertically. I know that the Flowmaster case is around 5x10. Has this been done before?
  • friedfried Posts: 2

    I'm currently giving some consideration to purchasing the above and would like to inquire about any known problems. I currently have a 2001 extended cab Silverado which has the famous clicking noise (the dealer actually replaced the original engine to address that issue, but of course the new engine has the same issue). So, one of my main questions is whether the engine clicking (piston slap, lifters, or whatever) has been cured in the newer models. One other item I noticed (read about) is that they have gone back to drum brakes on the rear. Why? Any other items to be aware of or comments on this model would be appreciated. Thanks.
  • I have a 99 that the same thing happened too. Under your drivers seat mounted on the frame of the truck is the ABS pump. It has a transistor in it that was speced to small in design and never recalled. The transistor fries on almost all of them, so getting a used one and installing it is risky. I took the risk. I got one a local truck wrecking yard that I have used before and trust. Had the brake shop install it and that was 14 months ago. Cost me about$250.00 all in all. Now there is a guy back east that will rebuild it for $100.00 plus shipping. he knows what he's doing and uses a transistor that over rated so as not to cook again. He also warranties his work for one year. I cant remember the forum I found him in, but it shouldn't be hard to find him. What ever you do, dont just let it go, the ABS in these rigs can save your life and perhaps that of another person. They will lock the brakes on wet pavement and slide like a sled without the ABS working.

    Good luck
    Eddie :shades:
  • dringodringo Posts: 4
    I have a 99 Silverado 4.3L V6. Had to replace the transmission back in Sep 04 because the TCM went out. Now the Odometer/PRND321 section of the instrument panel isn't working. I've checked all fuses and connections on the transmission, all are okay. Any suggestions? I've called a few dealers, but haven't spoken to a "live" body yet... and no replys to my messages. With the repair manuals I've looked at, only helps points me to the fuses. there must be a sensor on the transmission providing feeding the instrument panel, but can't track it down. :confuse: Thanks in advance.
  • rk1974rk1974 Posts: 1
    I have the same problem. It is horrible sounding and you can almost feel a slight jolt when it is engaged.

    I had a 1997 F-150 Lariat with a 4.6L that had 157,000 miles on it when I traded it in. My 2004 Silverado (at 24,000 miles) feels used up even though I baby it. Also have a lound engine and several rattles in the body. Geez..... :lemon:
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208

    See if you can find the info on the guy out east who rebuilds the ABS units and post it. I want to keep that info handy in case I need it for my 2000 Silverado. If I had my way I would do without the ABS but their all built that way now. I had an accident at work with a Ford Ranger that was directly related to ABS brakes, if it were the older system I could have avoided the accident. :sick: Sometimes new technology is not so great.

    Ray T.
  • dringodringo Posts: 4
    I had a similar problem with my 99 Silverado... the ABS controller continued running after shutting off the engine. Replaced it from one found in the local junk...err "Used Parts" dealer 2 years ago...$75.00 buck vs 750.00 at the dealer. Haven't had any problems since. :surprise: No harder than changing out a master cylinder. ltr dR
  • dringodringo Posts: 4
    Hello again... new to site, so a few postings in row.
    After changing the water pump on my 4.3L V6 it sounds like the radiator fan is spinning constantly. Any suggestions. :confuse: dR
  • Concerning your "sticking throttle" and the dealer's offer to "clean the throttle body". I have a 1999 Siverado, 4.8 AND I used to work at a Chevy dealership in parts for 3 years. Chevy has a "problem" with the throttle body sticking on almost ALL of their V8 engines in the pickups. Last I knew there was a "campaign", (aka unmandated recall), for this problem...and IS dangerous! :surprise:

    The offer will be made to correct it using a "kit". PASS on the kit, it seldom solves the problem, nor does merely "cleaning it" either. INSIST on a new throttle body at Chey's expense. They may squawk at first, but they WILL do the repair. If not, merely request, (politely), the Regional GM Representative's number....NOT that "automated" service GM has but for a real, live person! I can assure you -- your truck will be repaired without further delay. ;)

    Bowties rule! :shades:
  • jhewettjhewett Posts: 1
    I have a 99" chevy pickup V6 and it runs great in the winter time but in the summer after it runs a while it will start to slam into gear. You can turn the vehicle off and restart it and it will shift fine for about an hour. I have changed the CPU and the cylinoids in the transmission and it hasn't helped. Any Ideas?
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    Constantly spinning ?? Only if the engine is running. Do you mean the auxillary thermostatically controlled cooling fan? that might have a bad sensor and keep the fan running. It usually cycles dependent on engine temp. I don't remember if my truck has one or not (brain fart) :confuse:

    Ray T.
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Posts: 288
    Hi guys and gals. Please confirm that the fuel filter in the 05 Silverado is in the gas tank. If so, that means we can't replace it ourselves? Oh great.
  • jerrywimerjerrywimer Posts: 588
    eyup. Same thing for the 04's, and possibly for the 03's. Not cheap if you have the dealerships replace for you either (plenty of discussion on this topic in other forums, along with comments about deleted interior lights, underhood lights, air filtration system, etc.)
  • dave50dave50 Posts: 22
    I had a similar problem with a 99 astro 4.3 with 70k. It had a major power loss that happened periodically during acceleration. Finally after several months it gave a trouble code of the MAS air flow. I was standing in line to buy one for close to $100 bucks and a mechanic standing next to me told me to remove the MAS ( which only took 3 minutes) and wash out the sensor wires with carb cleaner. I did what he said and it solved the problem.
  • dave50dave50 Posts: 22
    The clunk is easily repaired (20 minutes.) Take off 1 bolt under dash on steering sharft u-joint. Remove same type of bolt from under the hood and the other end of the shaft and pull the unit out. Seperate the shafts by extending it outward. You will see grease only on one end of the shaft. Get a palm full of heavy wheelbearing grease and pack the splines as good as you can. Reassemble. Make sure you align the steering wheel straight. It seems like a cheesy fix but it works!
  • Hi All:
    I have a 91' chevy sill. 350 that doesn't shift from 2nd to 3rd. one out of second it revs high and does not shift at all. Even when let cool down did not shift had to drive in second gear at about 30mph because if it came out of second at about 35-40 it would rev up and I would have to stop and restart keeping it in 2nd. I am only 16 and can't handle to spend a lot any Ideas of what it might be and how much any comments very appreciated. Thanks
  • dano4dano4 Posts: 35
    Had 2003 Silverado 4WD with small V8 and automatic transmission. This truck had a nasty clunk in the transmission anytime it did a 2-3 or 3-2 shift without first shifting into first gear. Went to 2 dealers, both said it was normal. Drove a brand new truck and, sure enough, it had the same noise. Kept this piece of junk from date when new for four months then bought a new 2003 Dodge RAM 1500. It's easy to see why GM has major profit problems. The Dodge has been perfect for nearly two years.
    The service from Chevy dealers is both indifferent and poor. They only want to shove new vehicles out the door.
  • lostwrenchlostwrench Posts: 288
    I hate ABS brakes also. I was so happy finding a new 2004 Impala which was made without them. ABS does increase stopping distance.
  • Your clunk is an intermediate steering shaft problem, (like gm told you), but they didnt tell you there is a fix. Greasing is only temporary and the clunk will come back. I just had mine replaced and so did my brother. there is a new redesigned shaft available to replace the old faulty one. Unfortunately the part is on NATIONAL back order and could take over a month to get. The dealer told me the number of trucks with the bad part is enormous, and the demand for new parts is too. So you might have to wait for your part. So go to your dealer and set him straight this is a known problem to GM and they should know this, mine did. good luck.
  • I`m looking for someone with a 99 silverado. I need to know if the front driveshaft spins when in 2HI. Mine does, but other silverados I have looked at don`t. the other trucks were newer but shared the same transfer case, (model 246GM). So I need to find another 99 to help with my problem. Anyone with a 99 please help!!!!!!!
  • busterswtbusterswt Posts: 1
    I have a 99 (AutoTrac) and can verify that the front drive shaft turns at all times, even when in 2HI.
  • jlyons1jlyons1 Posts: 2
    did the plug wires fix the problem?
    My truck seems to have hesitation problem.
    I notice it more from a dead stop and making a right hand turn. It seems as thought the motor doesn't want to go it just stays around 2000 RPMs when I take off.
    Any suggestion. Also any ideas on this computer upgrade/downloads that the dealer is talking about they say it is 250.00 is it worth it.
  • adamizer1adamizer1 Posts: 2
    I notice that when i begin to accellerate ever so slightly from stopped to about 2nd gear i hear a sound that sounds like the more gas i give it it just pops and snaps and crackles under my feet and it goes away after 2nd gear pops in. Its got the R700 auto 4 speed. all the universals are freshly greased, there is no play between the tranni and the hanger bearing and there is no play between the hanger bearing and the rear end. I just noticed that when i park the truck, shut it off and get out, it makes that popping noise once. If i park on an upward slope facing my garage, i put the truck in park and i push the truck back and fourth with my body to get some momentum, i that damn noise again.its like somthing isnt tight?

    Get back to me please!

    Btw i baby this truck with lots of texaco EP grease

  • adamizer1adamizer1 Posts: 2
    Test 1:
    Foot on brake, in a wide open parking
    Put into drive, Let truck begin to go on its own without gas.

    Pop! snap ! pop pop pop ................! begin to BRAKE.

    So.... the truck does it under very little load. In Drive.

    TEST 2:

    Apply foot firmly on brake and press on gas while in drive. no popping noises you can hear engine chugging. I let go off gass and then ever so slightly let out the brake then the POP SNAP Crunch is even louder without giving the truck gas.

    I began to accellerate and and it eventually went away until I began to brake and get back in the 0- 30 km/h zone. i dont touch the gas and you hear that damn noise again.

    Ever damn time. it seems like when the engine is under alot of load it is compressing a mount or somthing ...
    it sounds like metal on metal so tightly rubbed together that it makes a popping noise.

    Its doesnt affect highway driving at all

    Truck drives like a cadillac. 240 000 kms. well maintained. greased monthly oil sprayed yearly. stabilized fuel no rust 19 92 long box 305

  • my69camaromy69camaro Posts: 1
    I have a '99 Silverado. Last year the belt to our air compressor broke twice within a few months. A mechanic told us the compressor had locked up and wants to replace the compressor and everything having to do with the compressor. From what he said this is a common problem. Has anyone else had this problem? Has anyone been able to get Chevy to do anything for them or about the problem?
  • dphillydphilly Posts: 1
    :sick: i have a 1999 4.8 and the insturment cluster went out and it is running strange and really slow to go after a stop. i have been told it needs a new ignition switch...will that fix the way it is running as well as the instrument cluster prob? and they want to charge me 375$?
  • I cant seem to find my manual and i want to know what the trouble code C0500 means
    ive got a 97 chevy c/1500 with the 350 vortec
    ??????????????? :confuse:
  • makoltdmakoltd Posts: 3
    Hell Yes Worry. Call GMs 800 Number and get that Driveshaft replaced, FREE!@!. I dealt with the dealerships greasing the yokes at $60 a pop when the STB states that when the condition gets to the point that engadgment is violent, GM WILL REPLACE IT. I had my done at 86k. It will destroy your REEAR END, as it did mine which GM REPLACED under warranty at 91k.. Fight then call GM, they are hurting and value your business. FYI. My service records are 1/5" think. I have the truck Flushed from Rad to Rear end every year. I repack bearings every year. I now have 127k on it and am about to get Tranny, Engine and Wieland SC done. I love my truck. I drove both the 3/4 Tom 496 and the SS and my Truck is by far faster - Headers, GM MaF, STEVE COLE RE-PROGRAMMING, Bypass, Pullies, well over 360hp.. 2nd hits 90.. Hope this helps you, the fact that you can say others are getting this fixed and that the greasing is making it worst, FIGHT.. :)
  • yup3yup3 Posts: 1
    When i go to start the truck im not getting that usual 5-8 second humm from the fuel pump. its a 98 and i was wondering if anyone new something about it i might not or the easiest way to fix it.
This discussion has been closed.